Alaska Highway

[Rocky7]

We're thinking about a trip up the Alaska Highway pulling a large 5W. Some here have made the trip, I'm sure. Would 2 weeks be enough, starting from G.P., do you think? I don't want to be humping it both ways but I'm not retired, either.

[NoKlu]

There is a lot to see and your time depends on how adventurous you are. My friend was up there for a month last summer and had a great time. He pulled the 5th up to a central spot and then did day trips to go exploring. If he found a spot he wanted to check out further he'd move and set up in the area. There is a good thread that was done last year and you might want do see if you can find it.

[Rocky7]

Thx. Will do.

Edit: Lots of good advice on where to stop, but not much on how much time a guy needs. I don't think I can swing a month, so still interested in whether it can be done and enjoyed in 2 wks or - maybe - 3 weeks.

I might bring my Rhino but I don't see a lot of stops to explore. Some, yes, but not lots.

[BEL]

Do not gas up in northern BC. Very, very expensive. Last summer 2 friends of mine did the hiway and I warned them about the prices. They decided to top it up anyway--$1.89 for diesel. Personally, I think you need a month or 6 weeks to do it justice. They took 6 weeks. BEL

[greylynx]

Are you planning on going the entire route?

[catnthehat]

We're thinking about a trip up the Alaska Highway pulling a large 5W. Some here have made the trip, I'm sure. Would 2 weeks be enough, starting from G.P., do you think? I don't want to be humping it both ways but I'm not retired, either.

One of my buddies went up for the centennial(?)
Pulled 16,100lbs. across the scales with his diesel Dodge and trailer.
Extra fuel, a canoe and gear, tow behind trailer, spare tires and bead breaking gear for tire repair, the works.
He and his wife and son were gone for 6 weeks, stopped where they wanted , travelled when they wanted, had a tremendous time!:)

Cat

[bdub]

Don't miss Liard hotsprings, also check out some of the rapids along the Liard river. Pretty amazing. When you get to Watson check out the hotel/pub where all the road signs are. The bar has some great hunting pictures in it going way back. I forget the name of it but you can't miss it. There are some nice spots around Muncho lake/Toad river to explore. If you watch for the sign for Stone Mountain Safaris you can turn down that road, lots of room to camp before crossing the river. It's just past Toad river town on the right. The road also goes across the Toad River to a lookout tower. About 25-30 km drive but well worth it for the views.

[doetracks]

After Fort Nelson, you can plan on fuel stops about every 4 hours.

You never said how FAR you were going?

[Rocky7]

Are you planning on going the entire route?

I was hoping to go to Dawson and maybe loop my way back.

[Rocky7]

One of my buddies went up for the centennial(?)
Pulled 16,100lbs. across the scales with his diesel Dodge and trailer.
Extra fuel, a canoe and gear, tow behind trailer, spare tires and bead breaking gear for tire repair, the works.
He and his wife and son were gone for 6 weeks, stopped where they wanted , travelled when they wanted, had a tremendous time!:)

Cat

Sounds like me, including the Dodge dually. I'm a little heavier if the truck is included - just a tad over maximum GCVW with a load of water (Please - no lectures from the trailer police). No tow behind, though, and I'm not much on canoes...too tippy for me. Maybe a smallish inflatable.

I carry spares but not the rest. Is this route especially hard on tires?

Don't miss Liard hotsprings, also check out some of the rapids along the Liard river. Pretty amazing. When you get to Watson check out the hotel/pub where all the road signs are. The bar has some great hunting pictures in it going way back. I forget the name of it but you can't miss it. There are some nice spots around Muncho lake/Toad river to explore. If you watch for the sign for Stone Mountain Safaris you can turn down that road, lots of room to camp before crossing the river. It's just past Toad river town on the right. The road also goes across the Toad River to a lookout tower. About 25-30 km drive but well worth it for the views.

Thx. I appreciate the tips very much. So will my outdoor family. We haven't decided for sure and so haven't told the kids. If I do that, it's all I'm gonna hear about it until July and there'll be no backing out.:)

I'm ok to hotfoot it right to Ft. St. John, not much to see between there and there, anyway, that we haven't seen 1000x. I've never been any distance north of FSJ, tho. I could make it ways north of FSJ in a day if I had to.

I'm guessing we'll need a lot of bug dope?

After Fort Nelson, you can plan on fuel stops about every 4 hours.

OK. That's no problem. I've got a big tank and on a trip like would probably carry 2 gerry cans of diesel just in case my wife gives me the wrong directions.:scared0018:

[Hunter65]

Done the Alaska Highway to Whitehorse many many times summer and winter, as I used to live there. 2 weeks can be done but you will want more. I will assume you are doing this in the summer. You can assume there will be some road construction, and perhaps will get stuck behind slow moving Americans in monster rigs, with nowhere to pass, especially past Fort Nelson.

You can do GP-Fort Nelson easily but steadily with a trailer, in about 8 hrs depending on how fast you travel. FN-Whitehorse about 12 hrs. Dawson is another 6 hours past Whse. Count on at least 6 days driving more or less there and back to Dawson City, not including stops to look around and explore.

GP-FN is rather boring IMHO, but maybe because I've done it 25 times. You can lead foot it to FN without missing much. FN-Watson is fantastic, never get sick of the scenery. Not only should you drive slow to enjoy the scenery, but it is also a windy road in places. The road is not hard on tires. If your tires are in reasonable shape you will have no problems whatsoever. Gas stations are plentful but don't push your luck (ask me how I know). Gas up when you're at 1/2 tank.

Liard River is a beautiful stop, but is messes up the schedule (if you have one) for driving beacuse is is more or less between FN-Watson Lake. Always a great way to end the day there. Plenty of game between FN-Waston so be alert, have binoculars and cameras ready. Sign Post Forest in Watson is pretty amazing. Very nice wildlife museum in Teslin right near the Yukon Motel (just across the bridge on right). Lots to do in Whitehorse and area. A nice loop is Whse - Skagway - Haines - Whse, involves a ferry ride, awsome for kids, takes about 3 days to really enjoy it, but is not on the Dawson route. Dawson obviously has history - lots of it.

I could go on. Did I mention fishing?

PM me if you want more info, I have lots of ideas.

[Lotep]

The best part of the drive is from Ft .Nelson to Watson lake (~500km) with only a couple highway stops along the way. Lots of wildlife, Elk, Moose, Sheep, Caribou, bears, wolves and everything in between. It will be a slow drive through the passes (steamboat mountain) and other ones. Early spring will see a ton of bears in the ditches (may june). Unless you have a lot of jerry cans you will need to fill up in Ft Nelson and Watson lake. When I drive down, I fill up in Whitehorse, Watson Lake, Ft Nelson, Dawson Creek, GP (top up) Edmonton and then Calgary.

From Watson lake to Whitehorse its approx 500k with the only real community being Teslin in the middle (200km from Whitehorse). The drive from Whitehorse to Dawson City is not on the Alaska Highway. It is the North Klondike highway and is a nice drive through central Yukon. Roughly 500km from Whitehorse to Dawson and a couple nice territorial campgrounds to camp in on the way up. I would recommend staging out of Dawson City and going up the Dempster highway (WITHOUT the trailer) for a day or so. Tombstone Territorial Park is awesome.

Good luck and enjoy the drive! Dont just blow up/down like I do in 2 days.

[Rocky7]

Done the Alaska Highway to Whitehorse many many times summer and winter, as I used to live there. 2 weeks can be done but you will want more. I will assume you are doing this in the summer. You can assume there will be some road construction, and perhaps will get stuck behind slow moving Americans in monster rigs, with nowhere to pass, especially past Fort Nelson.

You can do GP-Fort Nelson easily but steadily with a trailer, in about 8 hrs depending on how fast you travel. FN-Whitehorse about 12 hrs. Dawson is another 6 hours past Whse. Count on at least 6 days driving more or less there and back to Dawson City, not including stops to look around and explore.

GP-FN is rather boring IMHO, but maybe because I've done it 25 times. You can lead foot it to FN without missing much. FN-Watson is fantastic, never get sick of the scenery. Not only should you drive slow to enjoy the scenery, but it is also a windy road in places. The road is not hard on tires. If your tires are in reasonable shape you will have no problems whatsoever. Gas stations are plentful but don't push your luck (ask me how I know). Gas up when you're at 1/2 tank.

Liard River is a beautiful stop, but is messes up the schedule (if you have one) for driving beacuse is is more or less between FN-Watson Lake. Always a great way to end the day there. Plenty of game between FN-Waston so be alert, have binoculars and cameras ready. Sign Post Forest in Watson is pretty amazing. Very nice wildlife museum in Teslin right near the Yukon Motel (just across the bridge on right). Lots to do in Whitehorse and area. A nice loop is Whse - Skagway - Haines - Whse, involves a ferry ride, awsome for kids, takes about 3 days to really enjoy it, but is not on the Dawson route. Dawson obviously has history - lots of it.

I could go on. Did I mention fishing?

PM me if you want more info, I have lots of ideas.


I will, thx.

Just doing some times and gesintas right now to figure out my driving time to FN with a margin for the unexpected.

[Rocky7]

Good luck and enjoy the drive! Dont just blow up/down like I do in 2 days.

Thanks, no I won't.

It's already looking to me like Dawson was too ambitious. I'm doing some digging now on WH to Haines Junc. then Skagway and then back to the highway south of WH.

Looks like a long ferry ride north east from Skagway. Hafta check that out, first.

[dumoulin]

There's lots to see. From GP there SteamBoat and Liard Springs that a couple of days. Camping out in Watson Lake--a day or two) then off to WHorse--another couple of days. By the time you drive back, that's all you'll get to see. I worked there for 1 1/2 years and drove it three times, took the bus once (never again...54 hours of great pain from WH to ED.) It's very beautifull. It looks like the drive to Glacier Park from HWY 11 turnoff. Lots of wildlife, moose, bison and bugs the size of elk....really. Pack a gun LOL.

[catnthehat]

Sounds like me, including the Dodge dually. I'm a little heavier if the truck is included - just a tad over maximum GCVW with a load of water (Please - no lectures from the trailer police). No tow behind, though, and I'm not much on canoes...too tippy for me. Maybe a smallish inflatable.

:
His wasn't a dually, Rocky, single wheels, total weight over the scales, truck , trailer, fuel, the works!:)
Cat

[Hunter65]

Thanks, no I won't.

It's already looking to me like Dawson was too ambitious. I'm doing some digging now on WH to Haines Junc. then Skagway and then back to the highway south of WH.

Looks like a long ferry ride north east from Skagway. Hafta check that out, first.

Whse - Haines Junction - Haines - ferry to Skagway - Whse (or the other way round). You wont regret it, especially if the weather cooperates. 1 hour on the ferry from Haines to Skagway, and can be pricey in the summer as the rate is based on vehicle length. Check out the Alaska Marine Highway. Not much for camping in Skagway, much better in Haines. This loop is not really any shorter or faster than Dawson City, but definately more scenic. Can be awesome fishing in Haines if you're into that.

[greywolf]

Rocky;
Spent the summer of 2008 up there travelling in a 30 ft Class A MH, we did Red deer to WH in 3 days, Apporx 2100km, so probably about 1500km on that stretch for you from GP.
Liard River is nice for sure, we spent one night there, sat in the hot pools the evening we arrived and again the next morning. It is a slow go on stretches from Ft St John to Ft Nelson, twisty narrow roads, 60-70 km/hr, so have some patience there. There are some long stretches between service stations, 2 spare tires etc, are advised. If you go to Dawson City, I recommend heading west over the top of the world, through Chicken and down to Tok. From there you can head many different directions. When we came home we borded a ferry from Haines to Prince Rupert, with numerous stops along the way, Juneau, Petersburg, Wrangell, and Ketckikan before arriving in PR, IIRC the trip was approx 36 hours. Lots to see and do, Alaska can get a lot of precipitation, I think more so earlier in the summer.
Enjoy!!!!

[ghooke1]

We're thinking about a trip up the Alaska Highway pulling a large 5W. Some here have made the trip, I'm sure. Would 2 weeks be enough, starting from G.P., do you think? I don't want to be humping it both ways but I'm not retired, either.

I was up there a 2 years ago, you want to carry enough fuel to go from Fort Nelson to the Yukon. Muncho Lake is a pirates den. I had a ford 1/2 ton with big V-8 and with 4 extra gerry cans when I got to reasonable fuel prices again. I had one full on left. What I saved on fuel more than paid for the cans. You will enjoy the sights I think it must be a state law that if a girl works road construction she must have won a beauty contest. About 30 minutes north of Wasilla there is a "STORE" called wal-mikes (ask Mike about his necklace and see if he remembers Captain Hooke). It looks like an abandoned garbage dump but it was the most interest part of the trip and they have the best prices on ulu knives $4.95 compared to $25.00 in Fairbanks. Try the reindeer omelets in Denny's they are worth it. The Poker Creek Port of entry is the most northerly point of entry by land to the US if there is construction try to get there by 10:00 am to catch the first convoy don't speed some of the road is more reminiscent of Afghanistan passable but rough. This is about 60 kms but a small sacrifice stay in Dawson City and cross the ferry early if you decide to go that way. There is a musk ox farm north east of Wasilla if you want to see them and a large caribou farm at the university in Fairbanks. Another place to see is North Pole Alaska there is a small gift shop on your right if you are coming from the east on the main drag where you can mail letters from santa to the little ones that they will mail at Xmas.As to your question you can see a lot in a week and even more in a month it is a big state with basically one main highway in a large loop. Hope this helps. If you have questions feel free to as such as taking in guns etc.
Captain Hooke

[fordtruckin]

I can't believe nobody has told you to get a book called the Alaska Milepost. Its a dedicated trip book to the Alaska Highway. It has maps front to back back to front depending upon which way your traveling the highway. It also has all the other side trips off the highway as well. People are all worried about the road but the last time I drove it in 2005 it was fine. True like they say there are lots of slow moving vehicles. You get behind convoys of motorhomes/travel trailers from all over the place who only go about 50mph max. Nice thing about the highway is you can pretty much pull over at any wide spot and stay the night. What time of year are you planning on going? I know if you hit in June is when the traffic sucks. If you hit August/September (my personal favorite even though you'll miss the kings running....) the color of the scenery will make you want to stay forever. Its a great trip. If your thinking of doing the whole highway and touring Alaska you'll need more than 2 weeks. i remember driving it in 3 days one way and those were long days without stopping for anything but gas/food/restrooms. Anyways I used to live in AK so if you got any questions of what to do/see on the State side send me a PM. I absolutely love that state and would give my left nut to go back!

[Hunter65]

Rocky;
It is a slow go on stretches from Ft St John to Ft Nelson, twisty narrow roads, 60-70 km/hr, so have some patience there.
Enjoy!!!!

Greywolf I think the twisty narrow parts are after Ft Nelson, through Liard and on to Watson Lake. It's pedal to the metal from Ft St John to Ft Nelson.

[Rocky7]

Whse - Haines Junction - Haines - ferry to Skagway - Whse (or the other way round). You wont regret it, especially if the weather cooperates. 1 hour on the ferry from Haines to Skagway, and can be pricey in the summer as the rate is based on vehicle length. Check out the Alaska Marine Highway. Not much for camping in Skagway, much better in Haines. This loop is not really any shorter or faster than Dawson City, but definately more scenic. Can be awesome fishing in Haines if you're into that.

Thanks, I've been trying to find the charges for that ferry ride and looking in the wrong places. Yeah, my dually and a 40ft triple probably isn't going to cheap, but.....

Fishing? Somebody said "fishing" :)

[Rocky7]

If you have questions feel free to as such as taking in guns etc.
Captain Hooke

This is great, thanks!

Yeah, wife asked the same question. I always have a short barrel 12 gauge. Is that going to be a problem crossing U.S. border up there? I would really, really hate to leave it....

[Rocky7]

What time of year are you planning on going?

July. Maybe mid-July to mid-August.

I am in the mountains when the leaves turn colour like a salmon returns to the Pacific. It's not negotiable. So has to be Julyish.

[fordtruckin]

July. Maybe mid-July to mid-August.

I am in the mountains when the leaves turn colour like a salmon returns to the Pacific. It's not negotiable. So has to be Julyish.

you may catch the last bit of the kings running. If you get all the way up to Palmer if the Alaska State Fair is going on, Definately worth a trip!

[traderal]

I have made 2 trips to Alaska, both took 4 to5 weeks mostly driving, first time made 10000 km, second time 8000. Lots of interesting and unique people up there. Roads were washboard from whitehorse and into most of Alaska. 2nd trip was just after a major eartquake. Delaminated some parts of my motorhome. Tried combat fishing for salmon. Saw lots of large grizzlies. Treated like crap by the US border guard. Gas was cheap in alaska but expensive in the yukon. Mosquitoes and blackflies in the yukon were viscious. No problems with tires. Two places I remember is a campground high up in a pass on the way to Valdez and the other is Muncho Lake. Everytime I finish the trip I say I will never drive that road again and then in a few years I want to go back. 2 months would be nice to stop and enjoy life. The fresh halibut from the Alaska coast is awesome. On one of the trips I took the BC Cassiar highway north of Smithers to the Yukon border, 50km an hour on washboard practically the whole way, enough to make a grown man cry. So up to Whitehorse and back the raod is good unless you hit lots of construction. After that anything goes. I always tell people to take an older truck and camper or rent a car and then you won't be worrying about the beating it takes. Always interesting to see the convoys of US motorhomes heading up, all with numbers on them and a leader, probably expecting to get ambushed or something. Anyways expect to go back more times, some great scenery. My wife just uses the video camera through the window to record the trip as the road is too narrow to stop in most places and there is no way I will give up a lead spot when there are convoys of slow movers behind me. Thhe tanker trucks go fast, don't know how they do it but they move and they don't like the slow moving toilets on wheels.

[Rocky7]

Treated like crap by the US border guard.

That's too bad. I've always found the Montana guys are just fine, a couple a bit grumpy but, for instance, when we were patient the last time (my wife needs a Visa and was helping some with the patience part), the last guy ended up giving us some tips on roads and stopping places. She thinks it was her natural charm, I thought it was because I remarked on the nice Antelope head up on the wall and asked him about that. Anyway, better than the cretins I have run into - or used to run into - on the Canadian side. They seem to be better now. I gave them some pretty blunt feedback in writing and I guess a lot of others have, too.

I always tell people to take an older truck and camper or rent a car and then you won't be worrying about the beating it takes.

I grew up in country like that and hoped I'd seen the last of it.

Always interesting to see the convoys of US motorhomes heading up, all with numbers on them and a leader, probably expecting to get ambushed or something.

As long as I don't see any camo faces peering out at me....:)

Thhe tanker trucks go fast, don't know how they do it but they move and they don't like the slow moving toilets on wheels.

Sounds like our loggers and oilfield guys. The last time I was up Hwy. 40, I met a biggish truck coming around a corner with just part of his inside tires on the road. Scary, when there's no shoulder. Thx for the caution, tho.

I was going to wait and trade my truck for a new 4.10 Longhorn but it sounds like I'm better off taking a bit of financing and doing it before the trip. Moving slow and/or up and down mountains will be a lot easier with the extra torque on the road.

I really appreciate your input, guys. I'd have never found a lot of this intel. My wife appreciates it, too, and loves the same wry humour she gets around here.

[greylynx]

Since your going to Dawson has the thought of doing the Dempster Highway to Inuvik crossed your mind?

The Dempster is a good road that runs the mountain ridges.

Kids are even biking the Demspter highway to Inuvik these days.

[Hunter65]

Rocky
Check your PM's.

[fordtruckin]

I have made 2 trips to Alaska, both took 4 to5 weeks mostly driving, first time made 10000 km, second time 8000. Lots of interesting and unique people up there. Roads were washboard from whitehorse and into most of Alaska. 2nd trip was just after a major eartquake. Delaminated some parts of my motorhome. Tried combat fishing for salmon. Saw lots of large grizzlies. Treated like crap by the US border guard. Gas was cheap in alaska but expensive in the yukon. Mosquitoes and blackflies in the yukon were viscious. No problems with tires. Two places I remember is a campground high up in a pass on the way to Valdez and the other is Muncho Lake. Everytime I finish the trip I say I will never drive that road again and then in a few years I want to go back. 2 months would be nice to stop and enjoy life. The fresh halibut from the Alaska coast is awesome. On one of the trips I took the BC Cassiar highway north of Smithers to the Yukon border, 50km an hour on washboard practically the whole way, enough to make a grown man cry. So up to Whitehorse and back the raod is good unless you hit lots of construction. After that anything goes. I always tell people to take an older truck and camper or rent a car and then you won't be worrying about the beating it takes. Always interesting to see the convoys of US motorhomes heading up, all with numbers on them and a leader, probably expecting to get ambushed or something. Anyways expect to go back more times, some great scenery. My wife just uses the video camera through the window to record the trip as the road is too narrow to stop in most places and there is no way I will give up a lead spot when there are convoys of slow movers behind me. Thhe tanker trucks go fast, don't know how they do it but they move and they don't like the slow moving toilets on wheels.

Well If your thinkin of the 1964 earthquake ALOT has changed. The road is paved the whole way unless its in a construction zone such as around Kluane lake. In fact much of the highway is new and you can see the original road runnin off into the bush as you follow the new road. As for the border guards i've been treated worse by canadian ones coming back into Canada. It all depends on the person and the day. Road has plenty of places to pull over. although it is true you gotta be careful where as you may get stuck behind those RV's. I was pullin a horsetrailer every time I drove it and never had major issues. The Cassiar highway is paved except where they are fixen it so you can go up to 70 or 80km/h now lol. Only thing on that road is Dease Lake and Bell. Its a looooong 874km drive!

[greywolf]

Greywolf I think the twisty narrow parts are after Ft Nelson, through Liard and on to Watson Lake. It's pedal to the metal from Ft St John to Ft Nelson.

Yes, my bad;

And yes, the Alaska Milepost is a good investment, believe they are updated annually!!! they were when I bought my copy.

[Zekeland]

You mentioned driving the Dempster HWY. One of the most beautiful places and scenic drives in North America.

Be warned though, maybe carry 2 spare tires. I had 2 flats from that hwy within 24 hours. Not sure if they have actually paved it or not by now. It was back in '97 when I spent 8 months up there. It was a great road but those rocks , gravel, were killers on the tires.

You should be able to catch Grayling almost anywhere on the Yukon River during July.

I feel very lucky to have spent some time up there. More than most people doing the 3-4 week vacation up there. Was able to fish, work, golf, work, camp, work, and visit many of the great stops in the Yukon and southern Alaska. I will never forget it.

[Lotep]

You mentioned driving the Dempster HWY. One of the most beautiful places and scenic drives in North America.

Be warned though, maybe carry 2 spare tires. I had 2 flats from that hwy within 24 hours. Not sure if they have actually paved it or not by now. It was back in '97 when I spent 8 months up there. It was a great road but those rocks , gravel, were killers on the tires.

You should be able to catch Grayling almost anywhere on the Yukon River during July.

I feel very lucky to have spent some time up there. More than most people doing the 3-4 week vacation up there. Was able to fish, work, golf, work, camp, work, and visit many of the great stops in the Yukon and southern Alaska. I will never forget it.

The first 8 kms are paved just to ease you onto it.... I was lucky enough to drive it last August when the colours were out and made it to Inuvik and back without any flats! The gravel can be killer on the road, the stuff up past Eagle Plains can be quite sharp. Flat repair, bike pump and 2 spare tires that I didnt need!

Enjoy, it is beautiful in Yukon. The drive from Whitehorse to Haines Junction, Haines, Skagway is awesome. Good fishing on the Kathleen river. If you wanted to cut down on costs just leave your RV in Whitehorse and take the truck around. Stay in Haines for the night, they have great places to stay.