Any mechanics out there?

[Buckwheat]

I have a 1998 GMC Sierra and use it primarily for hunting. Took it in for a tune up the other day and the dealer pointed out that my fuel lines were severely worn and at risk of rupturing. The lines in this spot of the truck are rubber incased in a nylon sheath. The area is exposed and I guess while driving through brush rubbed the protective sheathing right off. The dealer recommended changing both lines (feed and return) at a total cost of $600 including labor. I'm looking for opinions if these could be repaired or not bother and have them replaced by someone who knows what they're doing. Here are a couple of pics. Thanks in advance. :)

http://i176.photobucket.com/albums/w170/buckwheat1_photo/fuel1.jpg

http://i176.photobucket.com/albums/w170/buckwheat1_photo/fuel2.jpg

[bingo1010]

i am not real familiar with the chev stuff but that looks to be a thermal covering, nothing to do with the pressure rating of the hose. someone hear will know for sure but i would say your dealership is trying to " hose " you:lol:

[mud slug]

if you do any off roading go to the metal braided or to the kevlar off road gas- brake lines. saves a lot of trouble.not a mechanic but i would change them.

[lynx]

Your thump needs a bandage. Sorry I cant help you on the mechanics of it

[JohninAB]

I had the same situation on my truck. Of course they recommend their lines at a big cost but I went to a place where they make hydraulic hose. Guy took one look and said no problem. For $60 I was out the door and on my way. Have had it for 3 years now, never has leaked or caused me any grief.

[turbo mulcher]

Yup I agree with John, go to Hose Head Quarters or Green Line get them to make up the hoses. They will make sure they are fuel rated and presure rated :)

[ctd]

Is the rubber itself damaged?
If not then go to any auto store and buy some rubber line that is larger then the one on your truck, then slit it down the center and wrap it around your fuel line, then tie wrap each end and every 4 inches or so.

[bagwan]

If they put the same repalcement lines back, what stops them from wearing?
If the metal integrity of the lines are not compromised (can't tell from pic) I would just rewrap with suitable protection. Princess auto may also build the hoses if your lines are scored. The pressure line on the power steering is also a good one to check and put an aftermarket hose on as well.

[moosemad]

x2 ctd, pick up some 5/8" or so heater hose and rewrap. If they aren't leaking you only need to restore the protection. Also have a look and see where they are rubbing and move/bend them over a little, should have no probs.

[KyleM]

If they are leaking and you re-wrap you run the chance of getting some nasty stuff in your fuel lines.

Why not replace for piece of mind?

First thing I would do is go as far away from the dealership as possible.

Any joe mechanic can do fuel lines, you dont need stealership pricing for that.

[FishHound]

You can rap your hoses in anythin, they will obviously rubthrough again so i would just wrap them in duct tape or leather and keep an eye on them. You may have to rewrap once in a while but it will save you $$ and then you don't even have to remove the lines.

[Buckwheat]

Thanks everyone for the suggustions. The inner line doesn't appear to have any wear on it and its not leaking. I like the ideas of wrapping it in a heavier hose and zip tieing it. I would replace the rubber sections as suggusted by some of you but not sure how to attach a new rubber section to the metal sections of the fuel line. They seem to be crimped together at the factory. At any rate, I agree to stay away from the dealer shops. I asked the service advisor why their shop rates were so high and he said they raised them to try and slow things down because they were too busy. Unreal!

[Dr. Phil A]

600 is excessive. I was a GM tech for about 10 years. Given the age of your Sub I would say the lines are due for a change. The steel will be fine but the rubber portion bends around the firewall. But the advice given already about after market is good. The only tight spot will be the 15mm or 14mm bolt and clamps on the back of the LH head. Right by the fuel filter on the LH frame rail has is the return line connector. Not too tough to change if you have the time. You will also need a line wrench to crack the fittings loose. Always back up the connectors both on the frame and the throttle body otherwise you may have some more grief. Pretty straight forward. Not sure where the 600 bucks comes in other than 100 bucks an hour for the door rate.

[Dr. Phil A]

Another thing on these lines is they should be under 60psi or more for pressure. Should you clamp them I would suggest 2 if not 3 hose clamps on each end to.

[raggmann]

Shoot me a p/m if you're gonne be up around the Red Deer area.(We're outside of Stettler actually)
We can do it for $20/hr and cure all your issues.

We also do trailer wiring etc. to make extra monies during the winter.In the summer we're too busy with rodeos to fix our own stuff.

Ragg

[Dr. Phil A]

Now back to the issue of the fuel lines. Read the above posts about getting hydraulic lines made up which by the way are not the same materials as fuel line material. With that much pressure I would not be chasing any jury rigged set up.

I am not by any way suggesting that he just cuts them and replaces them as I was getting the impression was going to happen. Fires and a lot of further grief follows. Get the proper lines because the top end is a special fitting. Aftermarket or OEM doesn't matter but I have seen a lot of crap jobs done out there that I have had to clean up after the fact. Under hood fires are not fun to fix because the cost of electrical harnesses are unreal as it the computers and plastic under there. What is a life worth too?

Buckwheat, if you are looking to fix those lines do it properly with the proper lines because of the issues of pressure and materials. Either do it your self or find someone who works cheaper to replace them but have the proper lines to go back in.