Shingle to metal roof transition... HELP!

[Cal]

I built an addition onto my home and in my infinite wisdom I decided to use metal roofing on the addition while my home is roofed with shingles. Now I cant figure out how to make a good transition that will not leak. About the only thing I can think of is to re-roof my home with tin and line up the ribs with those on the roof of the addition and then tar the joint. The shingles on my house need to be replaced in the next few years anyways but I want to get a boat this year and doing the metal roofing thing will pretty much nix that possibility. If anyone knows of a good way to do a shingle to metal roof joint please educate me. Thanks.

[Smokey]

Tin the Whole thing. Leave the shingles on, the tin goes on 1x4 strapping you put on top.

[70chevy]

Tin the Whole thing. Leave the shingles on, the tin goes on 1x4 strapping you put on top.

I think hes looking for a solution for his shingles to match up with his tin roof so he can get a boat this year

[fish gunner]

as a temporary fix you can run a flashing as far under the existing shingles as it will go. then under the new tin. if you cannot get at least 16" of total coverage 8" on both sides of the valley. you may need to pull the odd shingle nail. make sure these nail holes get tarred up before the flashing is slid under. 16" total coverage is a minimum more is better.

[Cal]

btt

[archercurt]

I'm guessing the addition you built meets the roof line of your house so the tin butts up to the edge of the shingles causing the water to run off the shingles and under the profile of the tin? If it is what I am thinking, the best solution I could think of would be to get some flashing, have it bent in a break so that it laps over the tin roof at least a foot, then at the edge of the tin goes toward the shingles at a 45 degree angle to meet the shingled roof. Once at the roof you would want it bent upward toward the peak of the house and lapped UNDER the nearest row of shingles as far as possible. Seal all joints of the flashing with a product such as sikka flex 221 ( can be bought in caulking tubes at most hardware stores). The idea would be that water would reach the 45 degree angle where your tin roof starts and be forced to run either way to the end of the addition then off the roof rather than under the tin and onto the bare wood of your new addition. Hope this makes sense pm me if you like the idea or have questions

[Wile E.]

Rubber flashing exists to fit around chimneys and vents. There is a light metal flange around the bottom that, when screwed down, seals the rubber around the shapes of the roofing metal. Is there such a thing that comes in long wide rubber rolls that can be used like flashing?:thinking-006: