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jryley
12-27-2012, 09:38 AM
Well i finally pulled the plug and bought my future hunting companion. If you recall ive posted numerous posts regarding what I should get, breeder reccomendations, yadayadayada. I decided to go with a chesapeake. Finding a suitable breeder was actually quite tough. Didnt really find anyone in Alberta that produced field lines, and the one really good breeder only sent home finished dogs, and i wanted a pup. So yesterday my brother in law and myself made the trek to saskatoon to pick up the new members of the family.

The father was a beautiful brute. Ive seen plenty of chessies in person (not while hunting) that have the appearance that closely resembles more of a stalky chocolate lab than anything, but this chesapeake was exactly what you see coming out of the states. 125 lbs, massive muscular chest, tall hindquarters, and a head that could crush a labs....the dog just looked like he was a goose dog. He retrieved beautifully as well.

Anyways, im going with the blue buffalo wilderness line for pup. My questions to the pros would be 1. After my research it seems im using pretty much the best dry food available, is this in your opinion accurate? And 2. How often and how frequently would you feed your pups said dry food? The feeding
Guide says 3 1/4 cups 3 times a day until six months but that seems like an awful lot to me. If anyone can provide some input id appreciate it.

Will post pics as soon as i can!

wwbirds
12-27-2012, 10:55 AM
As a general rule I put the food bowl down full and what they dont eat after 10 minutes I remove. three times a day might be a lot but I use 2 for growing pups. have fun. if you control the intake it is easier to anticipate the output.
Rob

ASAT1
12-27-2012, 11:05 AM
I started my pup off with 1.5 cups in morning and left bowl for no more than 5 mins and he polished it off and another 1.5 cups at night which was gone just as fast and thats it. As he grew it turned to 1 in morning and 1 at night, my buddy did that where he would fill the bowl and left all day and dog had no routine and is over weight now and to to break him of that habbit is impossible. Get him on a routine and stick with it, all depends on dog and you should get some feeding advice from breeder cause who knows that breed better than them. Good Luck and congrats on new member

MK2750
12-27-2012, 11:16 AM
I wouldn't and don't trust the health of my dogs to any one brand of food. In fact I always have two dogs and have not had any two eating the same thing at any one time.

I feed and also supplement with what I feel is needed from their appearance and/or behaviour. Their diet also changes with the season; if they are putting on muscle from hard late summer work outs, shedding their coat, preparing for winter etc, etc. their diet changes.

Get to know your dog. Watch for dryness in the coat and toe nails, watch for changes in stool, watch for over hyper, unenthusiastic behaviour, short temperedness, lack of concentration, anything unusual. Any or all of these can be related to diet.

Early signs of slight allergic reactions include scratching, a rise in body temperature and chewing at the paws.

There are several good Canadian companies that are more tightly regulated than their American counterparts when it comes to an honest list of ingredients guaranteed analysis. A quick google search will list them for you.

The first ingredients of a quality food are always meat and protein. What blend will depend on the animal. Avoid food that list a grain product as the main ingredient especially corn. I try to avoid grain completely but have found rice helps with digestion and doesn't have adverse effects to my animals. Your results may differ.

I also recommend mixing and changing foods. Who is to say there isn't an important ingredient missing from one manufacturer's product that is available in another. Those that don't recommend this are simply wanting you to stick with their brand. The longer a dog is on one brand the more likely he is to respond negatively to change. One can't be too quick to judge however. If you went from a diet of junk food to high protein and fresh veggies your initial reaction may seem negative. This does not mean the food is bad for you or the protein is not needed. You may simply need time to adjust.

Veterinarians are not nutritionists and have very limited resources for quality foods. They sell what they have chosen to market for profit. I am not saying they are selling bad food and in fact the brand they carry might be great for your dog, but it may not as well. Do not pass the buck as no one should know your dog better than you, including the vet.

Right now I have one of my labs on 30% high quality fish mix and 70% venison and brown rice. 100% venison and brown rice makes her coat dry and she gets constipated. 100% fish mix gives her diarrhea and makes her very hyper. In spring the mixture is 50/50 as she grows her new coat and reversed completely when we hit the streams for fly fishing in early summer and she can burn up that extra energy.

My pup is on a 50/50 mix of two high quality Canadian puppy mixes. One designed for retrievers, the other a general large puppy.

I also don't shy away from table scraps as some recommend. A wild dog is a creature of opportunity and has built up a strong stomach for what ever he encounters when hungry. I don't let them make a meal of it but the odd bit of steak, chicken, fish or vegetables should not upset a healthy dog's stomach and can add some things that might be missing from his diet.

For supplements I use fish oils, multi vitamins, vitamin C, glucosamine, chondroitin, MSM, and hyaluronic acid.

Sounds complicated and expensive but I actually am able to feed much less using quality ingredients and there is an added savings in vet costs when you have a healthy animal.

Good luck with your new pup.

densa44
12-27-2012, 12:51 PM
What was the breeder feeding him and how much. How much does he weigh?

Make sure he is getting all the groceries he needs and enough protein.

Does he live outside?

jryley
12-27-2012, 01:08 PM
Breeder was feeding them on orijen, which i just picked a big bag of up at global. Figured id see whichof the two the little guy prefers. Pup is 8 weeks old. Hes not an outside dog, he will be living inside with the family but i am a frequent runner and usually run 15 km per day. When hes old enough i plan on having him join me for my daily runs. That is aside from being in the field with me every week from sept 1 to the end of october every year. So he will be active, and active in cold weather as well.

I ideally would like to feed raw but with a 2 yr old, wife etc at home the costs and time involved just arent realistic for me to srick with a consistent program.

Aside from all that, thanks to everyone that provided me advice on breeds and breeders over the past year. It really helped! Had every sort of opinion
Possible from goldens to labs to GSP's to chessies....i went with the ugly one with the muscles. Ha! Already starting my research for a couple years down the road when i would like to get my upland dog....Im
Thinking a golden!

aulrich
12-27-2012, 01:46 PM
For upland as crazy as it sounds, if they have pointing labs, could you train a pointing chessie?

Mind you a lot of the season might be too hot to run the big boy in.

But that is going on the assumption that pointing labs are more trained that way than bred that way, but that is an assumption.

densa44
12-27-2012, 05:13 PM
I don't think your dog will be able to run 15K at one time. As surprising as it sounds, dogs are pretty much sprinters except for hounds.

A golden is a retriever, and you already have one.

jryley
12-27-2012, 05:18 PM
Should of elaborated on the running thing. I run 2 to 3 times a day and solit the distance up. My old lab used to run 5k no
Prob. Yes a golden is a retriever but theyre also, from my experience, a better nose dog/flusher than both a chessie or lab. Im not a big pointer or springer fan so i was thinking a golden

Pixel Shooter
12-27-2012, 06:34 PM
Hey MK2750, reminds me, did you pick up your pup yet??? where are the pics :D

In regards to your questions, it would be wise to speak to your breeder. Congratulations on your new pup, no pictures, didnt happen ;) NOthing like puppy breath :)

All my dogs get fed twice a day since day one. Careful on changing good immediately and remember when you do, do it over time otherwise may upset their stomach. Food I give depends on time of year and activity.

Some great advice MK2750. Just remember people if using fishing oil, it must be counteracted with vitamin E otherwise it can be toxic! with our Alberta weather and health, highly recommend 100% salmon oil, Costco is a wonderful place :)

SUPPLEMENTS: I supplement my own Labradors with the following:

1. MSM (methylsulfonyl methane): This is a sulfur source available at most feed stores in granular or powder form for animals, or at Costco, Walmart, etc, in capsule form for humans. I give just a pinch (~250mg) to my young puppies, increasing this amount to ~500 mg (1/8 teas) at 3 months, and to 1000mg (1/4 teas) by 5-6 months. In case of an injury, I will double the dose, giving it twice a day instead of just once a day. Sulfur is generally deficient in all kibble (processed) food, yet is credited in helping with musculoskeletal development and associated pain; it also helps with arthritis, immunomodulation, and resistance to parasites (roundworms, giardia, etc), and allergies. In the growing active puppy, having the MSM in the diet is especially helpful in the case of injury or "overdoing it", but also because our pups' immune systems tend not to be fully mature for the first several months. I give MSM to my dogs for their entire lives for pennies a day.

2. Glucosamine sulfate: I buy the Spring Valley brand at Walmart and give 1 per day (1000mg) starting at 3 months, increasing the dose to twice a day (2000mg) at ~5 mos. I keep my pups on Glucosamine sulfate until they have their final OFA (Orthopedic Foundation for Animals) x-rays done on hips and elbows at age 2 and I am assured all joints are healthy. Unless an injury occurs which may promote premature arthritic changes, I will not give it again until my dogs reach approximately 10 yrs old.

3. Fish Oil: I buy the Kirkland Fish Oil capsules at Costco and begin by giving 1 per day (1000mg fish oil/ 300mg Omega-3 fatty acids) at 3 months, and increase this to 2 per day at ~5 mos. I give my dogs fish oil daily for life.

4. Vitamin E: I also buy the Kirkland brand Vitamin E at Costco (400 I.U.), and give one capsule a day to balance the Fish oil. This isn't needed if you buy certain fish oil supplements which already contain vitamin E, however.

5. B-50 (or B-100): This is another Kirkland product. I split one B-50 between 2 dogs daily here, for life. B-50 promotes a healthy immune system, and is particularly helpful for hard working dogs or dogs under more stress than normal.

6. Cranberry caplets: For the first six or so months of a puppy's life (esp those little girls!), I find this or the ascorbic acid form of Vitamin C to be very helpful in helping to prevent urinary tract infections (UTI's).

7. Supplements for the Golden Years: In addition to the glucosamine sulfate mentioned above, I now begin to give my seniors Cholodin at ~10 years old as well. Cholodin helps support basic neurological and cognitive functions. Older Labs are prone to Laryngeal Paralysis (LP), dementia, and incontinence, to name a few. Cholodin has also been touted to help with seizuring disorders in some dogs. I also make an "organic green mix" recipe that contains spirolina, alfalfa, kelp, garlic, pumpkin seed and other goodies available at many health food stores. Email me if you would like this recipe!

Another product suggested to me by a holistic vet for geriatric immune health is Gluta-DMG.




I wouldn't and don't trust the health of my dogs to any one brand of food. In fact I always have two dogs and have not had any two eating the same thing at any one time.

I feed and also supplement with what I feel is needed from their appearance and/or behaviour. Their diet also changes with the season; if they are putting on muscle from hard late summer work outs, shedding their coat, preparing for winter etc, etc. their diet changes.

Get to know your dog. Watch for dryness in the coat and toe nails, watch for changes in stool, watch for over hyper, unenthusiastic behaviour, short temperedness, lack of concentration, anything unusual. Any or all of these can be related to diet.

Early signs of slight allergic reactions include scratching, a rise in body temperature and chewing at the paws.

There are several good Canadian companies that are more tightly regulated than their American counterparts when it comes to an honest list of ingredients guaranteed analysis. A quick google search will list them for you.

The first ingredients of a quality food are always meat and protein. What blend will depend on the animal. Avoid food that list a grain product as the main ingredient especially corn. I try to avoid grain completely but have found rice helps with digestion and doesn't have adverse effects to my animals. Your results may differ.

I also recommend mixing and changing foods. Who is to say there isn't an important ingredient missing from one manufacturer's product that is available in another. Those that don't recommend this are simply wanting you to stick with their brand. The longer a dog is on one brand the more likely he is to respond negatively to change. One can't be too quick to judge however. If you went from a diet of junk food to high protein and fresh veggies your initial reaction may seem negative. This does not mean the food is bad for you or the protein is not needed. You may simply need time to adjust.

Veterinarians are not nutritionists and have very limited resources for quality foods. They sell what they have chosen to market for profit. I am not saying they are selling bad food and in fact the brand they carry might be great for your dog, but it may not as well. Do not pass the buck as no one should know your dog better than you, including the vet.

Right now I have one of my labs on 30% high quality fish mix and 70% venison and brown rice. 100% venison and brown rice makes her coat dry and she gets constipated. 100% fish mix gives her diarrhea and makes her very hyper. In spring the mixture is 50/50 as she grows her new coat and reversed completely when we hit the streams for fly fishing in early summer and she can burn up that extra energy.

My pup is on a 50/50 mix of two high quality Canadian puppy mixes. One designed for retrievers, the other a general large puppy.

I also don't shy away from table scraps as some recommend. A wild dog is a creature of opportunity and has built up a strong stomach for what ever he encounters when hungry. I don't let them make a meal of it but the odd bit of steak, chicken, fish or vegetables should not upset a healthy dog's stomach and can add some things that might be missing from his diet.

For supplements I use fish oils, multi vitamins, vitamin C, glucosamine, chondroitin, MSM, and hyaluronic acid.

Sounds complicated and expensive but I actually am able to feed much less using quality ingredients and there is an added savings in vet costs when you have a healthy animal.

Good luck with your new pup.

shorty
12-28-2012, 04:07 PM
The guidelines on the food bag are a good place to start. Just watch your dog and see if it is getting fat back the food intake off. You should regulate the food especially if your dog is like mine and will eat way too much.
Go and talk to your vet while you are in gething your dog vaccinated. Vets aren't nutritionists but unlike most people in pet stores and breeders they do have an education dealing with animal nutrition. Don't let anyone tell you there is a food designed for a specific breed. That is a marketing tool and anyone.honest will tell you that. The food your vet sells is top quality and actually is marked up very little. I know this because my wife is a vet and we own a clinic. Just look at a pet store selling the same brand but asking more. Also if you see food in major chain stores such as WalMart don't use them.