Fixing a leaky tinner?

[Geezle]

So I took my little tinner out yesterday, and I find that I still have a small leak, somewhere in the back of the boat near the motor. There is some patching in the area that I think it's coming from...some of it old, and some of it I slopped on in a hurry last year.

What's the best way to seal up a section (say the last bit of floor between the rear seat and the rear of the boat) where I know there is a small leak but I can't quite pinpoint the location.

I plan to hit it with a wire wheel to get all the old Goop/silicone/whatever else off, but then what? Just smear the whole bottom with silicone? Spray on bed liner? Something else?

I don't care about finding the tiny hole, I'm fine with just blasting the area and calling it done. Doesn't have to look pretty, it just needs to work! :lol:

[AppleJax]

Cut it out and replace with a screen door, spray with rubber! All jokes aside Jay I think last year we didn't quite do the most thorough job we could have. If you clean it up and put a good coat of rubber or epoxy on it, it should hold.

[Kokanee9]

After you find the leak and clean it, I wonder if a 2 part epoxy would work? After it hardens, would that stick to the aluminum? Never had to do it, just throwing that one out.

[cube]

I would use Marine-Tex® Epoxy Putty
http://www.marinetex.com/

You can get it in Edmonton at
Boat Craft, 6316 106 Street, T6H 2V3
Ph: 780-437-4919, Fax: 780-433-4373
Email: sales@boatcraft.com, www.boatcraft.com

Good Luck

[NEWB]

Tighten your drain plug.... :)

You can just put some clear silicone around it.

Or if you want to get fancy.. Pop the rivits, seperate the aluminum sheets, clean them, apply an automotive metal bonding agent/adhesive to them and reattach. Problem solved!

[Geezle]

Tighten your drain plug.... :)

You can just put some clear silicone around it.

Or if you want to get fancy.. Pop the rivits, seperate the aluminum sheets, clean them, apply an automotive metal bonding agent/adhesive to them and reattach. Problem solved!

Up until a couple weeks ago it didn't even have a plug! :lol:

[Kokanee9]

Quick search and I just found this.

http://www.westsystem.com/ss/aluminum-boat-repair/

It lists some place called Boat Craft in Edmonton as a dealer.

[Wild&Free]

After you find the leak and clean it, I wonder if a 2 part epoxy would work? After it hardens, would that stick to the aluminum? Never had to do it, just throwing that one out.

I would use Marine-Tex® Epoxy Putty
http://www.marinetex.com/

You can get it in Edmonton at
Boat Craft, 6316 106 Street, T6H 2V3
Ph: 780-437-4919, Fax: 780-433-4373
Email: sales@boatcraft.com, www.boatcraft.com

Good Luck

I've used 2 part epoxy to patch my old tinner back in BC. Works far better then silicone.

[fish99]

i sprayed the under side of my boat with canadian tire under coating where the rivets were leaking, and after drying no more leaks.

[npauls]

spray on bed liner or marine goop should do the trick

[canoes]

hi, pro form 211 is very similar to sika flex, both are marine adhesives. The pro form 211 is available at Cloverdale paint.

Either the pro form or sika flex will out perform silicone or any of the goop products. Its around $13 per tube.

http://www.proformproducts.com/en/products/info/?product=1032&category=24

I hope that helps.

Larry

[the pilot cock]

To hell with fixing it. As I plumber, I'm a firm believer in technology. Buy a generator and a sump pump... No matter how bad the leak gets, it will keep you afloat ;)

[jim summit]

Leaking is an important part of a tinner, it helps to remind you that it's not a $50,000 Lund even though it feels like one. Kinda like a Harley that leaks oil. :)
It reminds you that its not an oil tight Metric bike....:lol:

Yup, my tinner has got a leak on the floor as well.

[pikergolf]

This thread shows the importance of learning how to tighten a rivet instead of starting with adhesives. Really easy to tighten a rivet an fix it properly the first time. :)

[ctd]

I keep a sponge in the bottom of my boat.
I would find out the rivet that is leaking drill it out and replace with stainless screw and nut of proper size. Use sikaflex around the screw.

[Geezle]

Just to clarify, the leak is in an area that has no rivets, but it does show an old crack and a few old welds. This is why I kinda just want to smear the whole area and call it done.

[EZM]

I think you have a good plan, I agree as you suggested ........

1) Sand off all the old goop and clean it up nice ( a couple scratches will help bond the epoxy/goop/whatever you use )

2) I'd suggest using 3M 5200 marine sealant/adhesive on it. Although it does not specifically say aluminum - trust me that #$%^ will stick to it - no problem for years. Comes in black and white.

http://www.3m.com/product/information/Marine-5200-Adhesive-Sealant.html

I had a piece of crap 12 foor tinner, bought for $75, that seen it's fair share of rocks, poor repairs, cracks and seam issues. I cleaned it up - pounded down the rivets and coated the boat with 5200 and she was bone dry - my cousin still runs the same boat some 15 years later and she is still nice and dry.

Looks like crap but it's dry. He is no Picaso and I'm hand tool challenged. We used a plastic putty knife to push it into the cracks and worked the product into all the seams and problem areas.

[deanmc]

I cant tell you the best product to seal the leak but I have a tip that no one else has given to find it. When you get home with the boat on the trailer fill it with water. The leak will be very obvious.

[EZM]

Cut it out and replace with a screen door, spray with rubber!

Nice try ............ now what happens when someone opens the screen door when you forget to lock it ............. I bet you didn't think of that did you.

I have a better idea ........ just spray the bottom of your pickup and attach your out board to the tail gate.

Now you can play the radio, have a nap in the cab, and still use the bed for fishing.

[Geezle]

I cant tell you the best product to seal the leak but I have a tip that no one else has given to find it. When you get home with the boat on the trailer fill it with water. The leak will be very obvious.

You'd think that, wouldn't you? However the boat spent the first few months of the spring/summer FULL of water, and it never did drain out :o :lol:



Edit: anybody have any thoughts on Mulco Supra Expert?

http://www.eaglesealants.com/Supra_Expert_Thermoplastic.page

I mostly ask because it seems like good stuff, and we have cases and cases of the stuff at work.

[Bobby B.]

A sealant applied to the outside is superior to a sealant applied to the inside of the hull. The pressure of the water on the outside works in your favor pressing the sealant tight against the hull. With sufficient pressure, even a sheet of poly loosely positioned on the outside of the hull would be pressed against the hull tight enough to form a seal.

Bobby B.

[Penner]

I think you have a good plan, I agree as you suggested ........

1) Sand off all the old goop and clean it up nice ( a couple scratches will help bond the epoxy/goop/whatever you use )

2) I'd suggest using 3M 5200 marine sealant/adhesive on it. Although it does not specifically say aluminum - trust me that #$%^ will stick to it - no problem for years. Comes in black and white.

http://www.3m.com/product/information/Marine-5200-Adhesive-Sealant.html

What retailers sell this in Edmonton or Calgary?

[ditchpickle]

Canadian Tire sells 3M 5200, in the boating section. I've also had good luck with Marine Goop on my 12' aluminum.