Help me understand graphite terminology

[Geezle]

The title says it all really.

Most of the rods I've purchased in the past have a graphite rating using the IM system...IM6, IM7 etc. Now with this I understand that the higher the IM# the more sensitive, light, and sadly brittle it will be.

Now just recently I picked a rod up that instead of using the IM# system, it goes by a modulus rating. I get that the higher the modulus the more sensitive, light, and brittle it will be...the same as the IM# system.

I guess what I'm getting at is, is there any sort of standard, where a person can cross between one and the other? Or is it more of a brand specific thing...like rod action where there is no actual standard?

I also have a few rods that are simply labeled as 'graphite composite' which I'm assuming is maybe too low of a quality of graphite to rate in the other systems?

[Wild&Free]

http://www.bassresource.com/beginner/bass_fishing_rods.html

Best info I could find with a limited google search on the specifications on graphite rods.

The basic rod is made from either fiberglass or graphite. This material is woven into what looks like sheets of cloth. The finer the weave, the faster the action. The weave is measured in modulus. Fiberglass rods have a modulus of 6 to 13 million and graphite rods are from 33- to 60-million modulus (ie: IM6 has 33,000,000 and IM7 has 42,000,000).
A high modulus rod would be stiffer, faster, lighter and more sensitive, but will also be more brittle, much like the difference between Plexiglas and glass. All rod blanks are not created equal. A quality blank will be lightweight and engineered for a specific action. Rod designers spend many hours to achieve the right action.

[Heron]

You seem to have a pretty good grasp of it. In addition to modulus, you have to do a bit of research on the action of the rod. "Taper" if that helps. is the rod designed to flex freely throughout its length or mostly in the tip section? I like different modulus and actions for different things I do. I am a fly guy and like a nice stiff high modulus long rod if I am nymphing (similar to slip bobber or jigging). For dry fly I like a medium modulus slower rod (similar to tossing little spinners). And for chucking streamers I also like a medium modulus rod with a stiff butt and softer tip. (Perhaps like chucking crank baits). The answer is you need a whole bunch of rods! If you have to pick just one rod it should be a compromise that fits your needs.

[EZM]

Can't remember where I read, watched or learned about this but there are no standards recognized and/or agreed upon between any rod manufacturers - so one guys medium might be another guy light power.

The same is true of action fast, moderate etc....

In terms of the IM ratings - they are about the only standard thing out there ...

yeah ........... I know ............ not really helpful ............. but i was curious about the same thing myself a few months back and did quite a bit of research only to find very little info.

[Legend Boats]

IM rods are becoming the standard for the industry. When i'm looking for a new rod, I go with a good solid company that backs there product with a lifetime warranty. From there I set my budget and check out the action they are providing to the type of fishing I'm doing with the rod. Most companies will now label there rods for the action specific. This will make it easier to pick the right rod to get the job done. I usually bring my reel in that I will be using the rod with so I can see how balance it will be. Other times i'll just ask customer service to grab me a reel that is similar to the one I have. Hope this helps

Henry Nguyen
Legend Boats