Help-Refinishing a table

[troutbug]

We have a solid oak kitchen table, the top needs to be refinished and sanded.

I have never done that, just wondering the best way to go about this? Whats best to use?

thanks

[project240]

Sandpaper... Sand it down to bare wood with 80 grit, then once all the finish is removed work up through the grits... 120, 150, 180 and finally 220. After sanding use a vaccuum, then tack cloth to remove all dust. Restain, followed by a couple coats of polyurethane.

[troutbug]

Sandpaper... Sand it down to bare wood with 80 grit, then once all the finish is removed work up through the grits... 120, 150, 180 and finally 220. After sanding use a vaccuum, then tack cloth to remove all dust. Restain, followed by a couple coats of polyurethane.

any recommendations on what stains to use?

[badbrass]

Save yourself a ton of sanding and use a stripper, I used, i think it was called Circa 1855 or something like that. works great! Then finish with your sanding! as posted above!

[badbrass]

on your stain, will be up to you, on what color you want.

[Austin]

X2 on getting a stripper (of the wood variety). Any hardware store will have and youtube will be full of step by step how to videos too.

[troutbug]

Thanks guys!

[Kokanee9]

Use a belt sander with LIGHT pressure and a fine belt. DO NOT sand with the belt going sideways across the grain. Finish sanding with an orbital sander.

Stripper can be used first in place of the belt sander and then finish with the orbital sander.

Buy some cheap oak casing and buy several different stains in the small containers that you think you will like. Try 2 or even 3 coats of stain on it to see what the stain actually looks like on wood. No need to coat the whole piece, 6" - 8" should give you a good idea of what stain you want to use.

Look around on this site for tips.
http://www.minwax.com/how-to-finish-wood/

[CaberTosser]

I'll disagree with the belt sander, their stock removal is too aggressive and they don't do well on cross grain if the piece is constructed with grain direction changes, especially if a person isn't adept with using one. I'd use a chemical strip followed by a sanding with a 5" or 6" random orbital sander, generally being already finished it wouldn't need any aggressive grits, I'd do a light pass with 100, then go 120, 150 and 180. A guy can got to 220 if he wants. Is the table made of white oak or red oak? Does it have much quartersawn figure? I like walnut stains on white quartersawn oak personally.

I agree with the test stains on scrap pieces suggestion though, that's always a good idea.

[leeaspell]

Save yourself a ton of sanding and use a stripper, I used, i think it was called Circa 1855 or something like that. works great! Then finish with your sanding! as posted above!

Used that on a few gun stocks. Stripped a 1954 sks down to bare wood in no time. Found the gel stripper a lot more user friendly than the liquid stuff. Pour it on, let it sit, squeegee it off. I found the Lepage brand better than the circa whatever year stuff.

[woods_walker]

Be careful if any of it is made of veneer topping. That layer isn't very thick and you could sand through it with minimal effort. Don't use the belt sander, it will be too aggressive.

[Mhunter51]

Yup, use the Circa 18??. It is great stuff. I would not use a belt sander. When you buy stain read the label carefully. As some one else said, get a couple pieces of scrap oak and try the stain, or if possible take a leaf or leg to the lumber yard and match. When you put the stain on, put it on in light coats and rub off gently. If it is not dark enough, put on another coat, and that is why you have to read the can carefully before you buy it. A lot of stains now have the stain colour AND a varnish/urethane mixed all in one. Don't buy that because once you put it on the varnish/urethane will seal the wood and not allow you to add anymore colour to darken it. One more step I would do to make the legs match. You mentioned that you want to redo the top only. Wash the legs and any other parts you are not going to sand with TSP. It will take any grime/grease off. Then lightly sand all parts and the when you are staining the top, lightly rub all the parts with a cloth with a small amount of stain. It will make the legs match the new top and will look great.
As has been mentioned before, sand only with the grain of wood on the top, never across. Good luck and it will look great. I've done three different ones now and they look like new.

[mooseburger]

I'll disagree with the belt sander, their stock removal is too aggressive and they don't do well on cross grain if the piece is constructed with grain direction changes, especially if a person isn't adept with using one. I'd use a chemical strip followed by a sanding with a 5" or 6" random orbital sander, generally being already finished it wouldn't need any aggressive grits, I'd do a light pass with 100, then go 120, 150 and 180. A guy can got to 220 if he wants. Is the table made of white oak or red oak? Does it have much quartersawn figure? I like walnut stains on white quartersawn oak personally.

I agree with the test stains on scrap pieces suggestion though, that's always a good idea.


x2