I'm SOOOO done with my Tikka .270...

[Stinky Coyote]

Done like dinner. D, U, N,...DUN!:D

Done setting it up that is. Time to move onto my next two projects finally.

So for those of you who were following me while i made a mid season change up to my Tikka Laminate Stainless .270 here is the finale. For those of you reading 1st time about this gun i'll try to bring you up to speed.

I was waiting for a long range custom to show up for this season...didn't make it in time and when i realized it wasn't i decided to go to town on my little Tikka. I wanted to lighten it for easier mountain packing and i wanted to rig it up to shoot it as far as it still had some energy, and or, accuracy left.

Traded the laminate stock for a synthetic and some cash....lost close to 12 ounces there, then went to talley lightweight rings instead of the steel leupy rings/bases, then took the burris ff2 3-9x40 at 13 ounces off and put on a leupy ultralight 3-9x33 with target elevation knob...at 8.8 ounces before elevation knob so say 9 ounces with. My gun weighed 7 lb 15.5 ounces before the diet, surely knocked a full pound off it with the change ups...so now running about 7lb all in.

Next was some range time to determine come ups and see if i could collect enough data to determine a 'bc' for the 130 gr fusions it likes as i couldn't find a published bc for those bullets anywhere. I used a chrony, kestrel 2500 meter and zerod at 220 yrds then figured out how many clicks to come up to shoot at 360 yrds and 500 yrds. It took 29 shots to zero and confirm 220, find 360 and let cool and confirm, then find 500 and let cool and confirm with the final six shots for the chrony. I took temp, barometer and elevation readings from the kestrel 2500.

This turned out to be enough data to use the online JBM calculator to find out my bc and make a chart that went further than what i actually shot too. I guessed different bc's until the chart data matched my data and made a custom chart on excel to match my gun to 800 yrds. I got to test the chart in the field by shooting a 701 yrd rock consulting my chart (no wind), laying over my pack and hitting it perfect with two spotters so the chart was accurate. Basically ranged the rock, then looked at the chart to see what moa i had to come up for that range, it said 12 moa (full 3/4's of a rotation of the elevation knob)...so i clicked up to the 12 and boom it was good.

I wanted to simplify the system even further. On the same chart i had a column that gave how many inches to hold off for 10 mph crosswind at each of the ranges out to 800 yrds. So even though it was pretty simple as there were only 3 columns (range, moa come up, 10mph wind hold) i wanted to get it even simpler. And now i'm pretty sure i've taken it as far as i can go.

I went with a Kenton Ind. Speed Dial knob to eliminate the center column on my chart...the moa come up column. Now i range 700 yrds and quickly dial to the 7 on the knob.....not the 12. It saves me one step...one calculation in the field which is a good thing.

Now my chart simply has the wind holds, so i only have to consult the chart for wind hold. And since i plan on hunting everything between calgary and the mountain tops, early season and late season and also coyotes in the winter.......i've included some simplified information at the bottom of my wind chart to make sure i'm ready for super cold temps and high elevation.

Basically high elevation thin's air out (bullet stays flatter) and super cold is more dense (bullet drops faster) so i made just enough comments of how many clicks to add or subtract between 5-800 yrds to cover me for those situations as before 500 yrds there's no change worth noting.

My initial data is set up for 4500' elevation and zero degrees. Going 20 degrees above zero didn't change anything worth noting (great, no change for early season), but going 20 below zero did....and so did going to 7000'. So i should have enough data to cover me for everything i'm going to do for up to 800 yrs between calgary and mountains for early season to late season and coyotes in the winter too yet kept it simple as possible.

Here come the pics. Note: if you shoot 130 gr fusions in your standard .270 then use .465 as a bc on the JBM calculator...its accurate to 700 yrds forsure.

http://pic20.picturetrail.com/VOL1600/824048/17448107/342870819.jpg

Above is speed dial knob, 220 yrd zero, first hash is 250 yrd, next is 300 and then there are hashes every 25 yrds after that. The 800 yrd mark is the little dot above the zero which is 15.1 moa or one click past a full rotation. Neat thing about the knob is it has a zero stop feature, i set it so i cannot go but one click past my zero....so i can never get a rotation off my zero. Its a little allen screw that goes down through the top of the knob...simple but nice peace of mind it offers. I will likely leave the dust cap off for good so i never have the delay of spinning it off in a fast situation.

http://pic20.picturetrail.com/VOL1600/824048/17448107/342870880.jpg

Another pic of the speed dial knob.

http://pic20.picturetrail.com/VOL1600/824048/17448107/342870744.jpg

So thats the system above, Kenton Speed Dial and Wind Chart taped to stock.

http://pic20.picturetrail.com/VOL1600/824048/17448107/342870770.jpg

Above is a close up of the wind chart. There was 4" difference in wind hold between 4500' and 7000' at 800 yrds. I just ran my numbers up the middle between 500 and 800 yrds to come up with just one wind chart as i felt it was going to be close enough that i could simplify it to just one chart instead of two. Obviously conditions would have to be perfect to take advantage of any long range shot but at least it is possible if given the opportunity. And it sure makes shooting to 500 feel much more like a chip shot, my group sizes laying prone in a field at 500 during this testing will have me killing coyotes pretty easy. I hope to test it out shortly in this regard, so far killed about 5 coyotes this fall but only to about 285 on a couple....soon though we'll stretch her legs.:)

And yes i know that wind is everything on long shots, i use my kestrel 2500 all the time now to guess wind first then see what it actually is via the kestrel. Just like using a rangefinder to practice judging distances by guessing first then using the rangefinder to tell you forsure. Just so i can learn to be a better judge of the wind. So using that chart if 5 mph wind you simply halve the inches of hold, for 20 mph you double it. Getting the drop figured is pretty easy...the wind is the real thing to learn that will make the difference out there....i'm fully aware of that. Basically all my time devoted to a long shot will be on the wind calculation as i've tried to make the elevation as fast and simple as possible....think i've succeeded there.

I guess something to note also is this gun is zero'd to cold bore 1st shot and 9 times out of 10 my first two shots will be half moa or a little less so it makes it possible to use in a hunting situation, its cold bore zero is very very consistant, to the point of very high confidence in my first shot no matter what....not even a question. Won't be good for the target shooting competition type stuff on the range as it opens up gradually as it heats up....just have to work with that for setting up for hunting. Thats why after making adjustments i would let cool and then confirm....seems to work well doing it that way. It still groups pretty good for 3 and sometimes 5, i've put 4 into one hole out of 5 at 100 yrds with it before but rare usually i'm only good for about 1.25-1.5 moa for full 5 shots at 100 with it. 3 shots i can usually keep 3/4 to 1 moa....but the 1st two are usually on top of each other. Just giving characteristics i've observed from shooting this gun/ammo combo a bunch. I've witnessed 1st hand a couple T3's that are tighter than my rig on the range...but i can still do lots more than enough with this one...its minute of critter to way further than i could hope for.

Factory gun, factory ammo, 7 lbs all in. Am i happy with what i've squeezed out of this little rig? Way happy! Can't wait to shoot a serious rig....1/4 minute custom type with super high bc bullets......thats coming up next.:D

Final note: Still holds just over 1000 ft/lbs energy at 700 yrds. Not bad for a non-magnum factory cartridge, those little fusions are tough and sleek. My .270 spits them out average 3012 fps (i used 3010 fps for calculations on JBM)

Hope this was entertaining for yall, just having so much fun with this that i had to share.

Oh forgot, less than 2 bucks at staples to laminate my excel wind card so its waterproof... thats my last tip. Not the prettiest card on the stock but wanted maximum function...ie; tough(weather proof) and readable when time is critical.

[chola]

:eek: WOW.....that is some serious stuff right there...my hat's off to you and your devotion to get the best you can..excellent job:D:cool:

[Predator]

Lots of people talk the talk when it comes to long range shooting, but you have certainly done your homework with REAL WORLD come-ups etc.. Now you know what your rifle will do in the field, not what the ballistics calculator says. My hats off to you.

[twofifty]

Nice job stinky. A great practical rig.

[Stinky Coyote]

Lots of people talk the talk when it comes to long range shooting, but you have certainly done your homework with REAL WORLD come-ups etc.. Now you know what your rifle will do in the field, not what the ballistics calculator says. My hats off to you.

Thanks, we shall see if i can walk the talk:D, so far my only confirmed long range kill is rock at 701 yrds but the one spotter with the spotting scope had lots of 1000 yrd shooting experience(competed f-class etc.) said the hit was perfect. I then spotted for him as he dialed in his custom 300 win mag which he also used in f-class and proceeded to basically hit the exact same spot. His groups though are much tighter and he carries 1000 ft/lbs plus energy to 1000 yrds with same velocity....180 accubonds for his rig.;)

Doubt i'll need to shoot that far on game but i suppose the opportunity and conditions could present themselves at some point. Definitely will stretch out there for hung up coyotes and let fly to get more experience and better with the wind. Love this stuff, time to take it to the next level.

[wannabe]

that is an awesome write-up. i'll be giving you a shout when I get my t3 varmint in 260rem.:D

[bsmitty27]

That is a great wright up, you really seem to have a system figured out I will proublally be picking yor brain, about my 7mm rem mag that has shown to be a shooter. Thanks for alol the info.

Brad

[smurph]

Hey SC,

Thanks again for the info on 'our' .270's. I'm off to the range tomorrow to dial in the scope at 200 and 300. I already love the T3 though I kinda wish I ordered the black scope instead of the silver I now have. Hmmm.... might have a silver scope on here for sale soon. :)

Thanks again,

S

[Stinky Coyote]

Fantastic calibers. Friend just set up a .260 rem, just worked up max load by pressure signs with 130 bergers, gave me his moa come ups and i worked it back on the JBM sounds like he's got them doing a tad over 2900 fps. Had his smith do a 'tight neck' chamber? Dunno, supposed to be more accurate....anyhow.....running the numbers compared to my .270.

He starts with over 200 ft/lbs less energy and 100 fps less speed for same weight bullet. By just after 250 yrds the little berger has caught up to my fusion for energy and then it kicks its but and holds over 1000 ft/lbs energy at 800 yrds (my .270 is 700 yrds for same) and then at 1000 yrds the berger is still 8-900 ft/lbs while the .270 is only 600 ft/lbs.

Its amazing how efficient that is....very little recoil (and in the varmint tikka even less) but just keeps holding its energy forever with that .595 bc. I'm really digging the idea of the 6.5x55 to get 140 bergers with .640 bc up to 3000 fps....that would a crazy efficient rig for the recoil etc. Maybe will play with that someday.

The 7 rem mag is my next toy to play with. Finally have the gun just need to shoot it. 168 gr bergers at .64 bc at 3075 fps should be incredible to 1000 yrds. By the calculator thats still almost 1400 ft/lbs energy at that distance.

So you could do amazing things with those 6.5 and 7mm cartridges as they have the best bullet choices for high bc's. Those are the two bullet sizes that interest me the most right now because of that. Good choices. I didn't know the half of this when i bought the .270, but i still don't reload yet (friend is helping with the 7 rem mag till i get set up) and the .270 was the best non-magnum caliber on paper studying factory ammo choices.....and i'm super happy with the choice even after learning what i have. To take advantage of the 6.5/7mm stuff to the max then reloading forsure. The .270 might get reloaded for some day but i'll get my 7mm sorted first and have another project to do first. Then maybe when they are done i'll go back to the .270 and see what i can do with 150 gr bergers at .545 bc? Lot of fussing for maybe not a ton of practical real world gain so only when i have other guns set up to use will i maybe go there with the .270. Its nice that i can do what i have so far with cheap factory ammo....will likely just leave it alone, make a great back up/loaner rig.

[TangoKilo]

Stinky,
Can you tell us in more detail about your ZERO stop?
Did you do this yourself? Can you take some detailed photos?


I have heard of people making polymer shims that go under the turret for ZERO stops, but never using by using a set screw.

Looks like a fantastic little rifle!!

[Stinky Coyote]

Imagine looking straight down on top of the knob, then imagine another set screw going down through the top just like the 3 that hold the knob on from the side. It uses same size allen wrench as the 3 that hold it on. This screw is about 1/4 of the way from the outside edge towards the center. I put a little teflon tape on mine to make it more sticky so i was sure it wouldn't move around with the gun being rattled from transport etc. That was my only concern was that it was too loose....the teflon fixed it up. Sorry don't have a picture handy, hope my description paints the picture for you.:wave:

[Bobby B.]

SC,

Thanks for the post, I always appreciate a methodical approach to an intelligent goal.

Bobby B.

[Stinky Coyote]

Thanks, as i keep thinking about this...how to simplify the wind further and i agree that best of the west type system rocks.

I would contact leupold for custom reticle for any serious rig. The tikka is my 'factory' rig but like the system huskemaw came up with for wind. Or maybe John Burns did it first...whatever.....its a good system.

Takes the wind chart and puts it on the reticle by using windage hash marks in moa...you could copy the system on a leupy scope with the custom side i think. Next serious scope i need i'll be phoning them for a duplex with moa windage hash marks similar to huskemaw/burns. And then have Kenton add the little moa numbers to the knob above the yardage numbers...just like huskemaw has done.

Then only thing that goes on the stock is the few clicks here and there for high elevation/extreme cold.

I like that you would use an actual hold point on the animal rather than guessing the inches of hold off like i've set up with the tikka....but the tikka doesn't need to go further than it is. A custom with higher bc stuff will though.

So little time, not enough guns.:D

SC