Walleye Boat Questions.

[packhuntr]

Im coming into my second year in the SAWT, and just got a serious education on how much of a nightmare boat i have that I am trying to effectively fish from. 16 foot Lund deep V Tyee, 1988, so 20 years old. I am completely re-rigging this boat, it will basically be running as new once the water opens up in the spring. I have many upgrades completed already, many parts coming on order, but most upgrades havent begun yet. I have been pondering electrical systems. Im converting to a 24 volt system while replacing the 20 year old wiring, shes all going. I would like to hear all anyone has to say on the issues that im looking at. Does anyone have any knowledge of on board charging systems? Of all the options out there, what will be the best way to go? Batteries, who makes a good cranking batt, and i am also wondering about deep cycles? Is there anything I should be thinking of before i start this project? I am installing a 12 volt dash mounted charger as well, just something handy, i figured now would be the time to do that as well. There is a ton on my list, and i will gladly ask all if someone has any experience resurecting a boat like this.

[TJG]

These are two of the best

http://www.stealth1charging.com./index.html

http://www.stayncharge.com/

[Mulestalker]

As far as onboard chargers go,you hear both good and bad on every brand out there,I went with Guest 3 bank,one bank for the bow (12v…little weak when windy) other 2 for my 24V Vantage ( when it gets too wind for the bow).Fought many years with your standard battery chargers and they are a pain…for sure a wise investment.

Batteries, I went with Trojan,they are recommended highly but depending one how much you use these per year the standard deep cycle from Walmart is a cheaper way to go and are made by Johnson Controls

One thing I would install if your rig doesn't have it is a live well timer, use to fish without one and would be constantly turning on and off the switch,just makes life easier.:D

[bobalong]

I am not familiar with other on board chargers beside the Minn-Kota but I have had good luck with them. I run three batteries beside the starting battery. I have two for the trolling motor and I have a seperate battery just for the livewell and sonars. The filler pump still runs off the starting battery (factory installed) but my circulating pump runs off a seperate battery which I leave running constantly if there are fish in the well. I went with the three bank, 5 amps per leg, it takes a bit longer to charge than a 10 amp but I think that is better for the deep cylce batteries. I went with Trojan batteries as well, get either the 200 or 240 minute reserve ones they will easily last a day even with lots of use.
For a starting battery get the "marine starting" type with high cranking amps, about 600+ or so. The marine style batteries are similar to any starting battery except that the plates are secured for all the vibration that occurs in a boat.
I am not sure if I understand you about re-wiring to a 24 volt system. Your main system should be just a 12 volt system, as all your pumps, sonar, etc will run on 12 volt, only the trolling motors will be 24 volt. If you are putting in a new floor run all the cables in conduit in case you ever have to repair it, it is much easier to just replace.
If you use rod holders a lot make sure you sit in each position and try them out before you install them, I know this sounds simple but I moved mine a couple of times before I finally have them where they work best. I would look at the quick release style rod holders, either the Folbe or the Scotty Orcas.

If you have room on the bow, the push and lock anchor locks for your rope are quite handy as well.
If you are a tournament angler then you have quite a few rods in the boat, a rod holder that is out of the way (moved this twice as well) is a great idea and worth the time to get in the best place.
I installed a vertical pipe in the splash tray of the boat for the net, I have an 18.5 ft, but anything that keeps the floor area clear when your fishing will be a good thing.

[JBE]

What do you use for a rod holder for the extra rods? I have the compartments on the side but hardly ever use them. Just too lazy to break the rod down to fit in there

I am not familiar with other on board chargers beside the Minn-Kota but I have had good luck with them. I run three batteries beside the starting battery. I have two for the trolling motor and I have a seperate battery just for the livewell and sonars. The filler pump still runs off the starting battery (factory installed) but my circulating pump runs off a seperate battery which I leave running constantly if there are fish in the well. I went with the three bank, 5 amps per leg, it takes a bit longer to charge than a 10 amp but I think that is better for the deep cylce batteries. I went with Trojan batteries as well, get either the 200 or 240 minute reserve ones they will easily last a day even with lots of use.
For a starting battery get the "marine starting" type with high cranking amps, about 600+ or so. The marine style batteries are similar to any starting battery except that the plates are secured for all the vibration that occurs in a boat.
I am not sure if I understand you about re-wiring to a 24 volt system. Your main system should be just a 12 volt system, as all your pumps, sonar, etc will run on 12 volt, only the trolling motors will be 24 volt. If you are putting in a new floor run all the cables in conduit in case you ever have to repair it, it is much easier to just replace.
If you use rod holders a lot make sure you sit in each position and try them out before you install them, I know this sounds simple but I moved mine a couple of times before I finally have them where they work best. I would look at the quick release style rod holders, either the Folbe or the Scotty Orcas.

If you have room on the bow, the push and lock anchor locks for your rope are quite handy as well.
If you are a tournament angler then you have quite a few rods in the boat, a rod holder that is out of the way (moved this twice as well) is a great idea and worth the time to get in the best place.
I installed a vertical pipe in the splash tray of the boat for the net, I have an 18.5 ft, but anything that keeps the floor area clear when your fishing will be a good thing.

[bobalong]

I have a vertical mount in the middle of the boat (holds 4) and two of the berkley tube mounts at the back (holds six more)

These are the ones at the back, (Cut slots about 1/2" wide about 2" down from the top, keeps the spinning outfits from flopping around). If you look to the left of the sonar in the first pic you will see a black vertical pvc pipe, this is where I usually keep the net. The tube style rod holder to my right in the first pic are the ones I used before I switched to the Folbe.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v45/bobalong/Fishing%20pics/IMG_1694Small.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v45/bobalong/Walleye%20Pics/IMG_0953.jpg

You can see the other one over my right shoulder
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v45/bobalong/Walleye%20Pics/bobs9-4.jpg

This is the Folbe quick release bracket, you can hook set right out of the holder. I fish out of the drivers seat most of the time, these are mounted right beside the drivers seat, in front of me so I don't have to turn around to check them.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v45/bobalong/Maps/IMG_1399Small.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v45/bobalong/Maps/IMG_1398.jpg

[Waxy]

Im coming into my second year in the SAWT, and just got a serious education on how much of a nightmare boat i have that I am trying to effectively fish from. 16 foot Lund deep V Tyee, 1988, so 20 years old. I am completely re-rigging this boat, it will basically be running as new once the water opens up in the spring. I have many upgrades completed already, many parts coming on order, but most upgrades havent begun yet. I have been pondering electrical systems. Im converting to a 24 volt system while replacing the 20 year old wiring, shes all going. I would like to hear all anyone has to say on the issues that im looking at. Does anyone have any knowledge of on board charging systems? Of all the options out there, what will be the best way to go? Batteries, who makes a good cranking batt, and i am also wondering about deep cycles? Is there anything I should be thinking of before i start this project? I am installing a 12 volt dash mounted charger as well, just something handy, i figured now would be the time to do that as well. There is a ton on my list, and i will gladly ask all if someone has any experience resurecting a boat like this.

Going 24V is definitely the right choice. You only need the 24V for the trolling motors though. Be sure to run heavy guage wire and have 24V outlets front and back, even if you don't have a rear TM now, you're going to want one in the future. Also, to run a Vantage, you need an additional 12V supply to the rear outlet.

I've got a 24V system on my boat. If I would have done the initial rigging myself, I would have gone 36V. Since I didn't have the option, I currently run 3 batteries, two for the trolling motors and one for starting, sonars, livewells, etc... I have a Lund 3 bank charger that works very well.

I'm contemplating adding two more batteries next year to bring my total to 5, this would give me two sets for the TM and allow me to run all the accessories off one of the spare batteries. It's going to be a pain, especially for charging, and it adds a fair bit of weight, but there is NOTHING worse than not having the battery power to do what you want/need to do to catch fish. I still haven't quite decided how I'm going to configure them, but I figure I'll use the 3 bank charger to charge the 2 main TM batteries and the spare that will be running the accesories. That'll make the two primary TM batteries and the accessory battery easy to charge and keep full. I won't have an easy charging system for second TM battery that has no draw, but combined with fully charged accessory battery, they should work fine as backup TM batteries. I'll just have to charge it separately if it gets used.

I really don't think you need to have your starting battery connected to the on board charger if it's only being used for starting, especially with a new good quality marine battery. You don't use it much, they charge whenever the engine is running, and it's easy to access and charge seperately if needed.

As for the rest of the rigging, have fun with it. I'm constantly coming up with different ideas and moving stuff around. I don't think there's a "right" way, just whatever works for you.

Waxy

[Hunter Trav]

Here is a link for ya, its a guys webpage, and he shows how he "made" his own walleye boat from a basic 18' lund. Pretty cool ideas, and should help you out.

http://correllconcepts.com/boat_conversion.htm

I know I was pretty impressed by what he had done. :D

[packhuntr]

Thanks alot guys, there is some great info for contemplation. Bobalong and Waxy, do you find that with all the extras drawing off the cranking battery, at the end of a full day your battery is run down?? How much juice do the electonics, radio, circ pump and such actually draw off a cranking battery? I noticed you said that youve installed another and designated it for electronics etc. I must say i like the idea of a three bank charger, with third bank for accessories battery, no worries. I may not have the room though?? I do have additional space for an existing 2 battery tray at the rear on the opposite side as the existing ones, so it would be easy to balance out with 2 on each side, but im already a little transom heavy with just 2 counterbalancing my kicker motor. There is some storage space at the front that the 24 volt system could go, but it would be a dirty shame to lose it. That leads to another question, where do you guys have your batteries situated, and in the grand scheme of it all, how do you set up during hardwater while trying to keep the ballast weight and placement of equipment in mind? Im eye-balling things, but man, theres a heck of alot to be thinking about all at once here.

What do you guys think of RAM mounting systems. Ive been leaning toward them for the electronics, both dash and bow. Anyone out there have or used these? Im wondering about how the ball joint will do over time through jarring shaking etc. Looks like theyve got it figured out with a rubber ball to reduce vibration to electronics, but im not sure about the longevity of the mount its self.

Thats a great read Hunter Trav! Thank you.

Thanks for the tips Waxy and Bobalong and M. Stalker, some real food for thought, sounds like afew of you guys have been through this before. Its alot of work so far, but its been fun as well. I think it would be even more fun if i didnt have the tab on this one though.

One other thing thats been bothering me abit. I dont have hydraulic steering, its cable steering. I looked into it, but at the price of the upgrade, approx +1000 bucks, i will have to stick with what ive got. Only problem i have is that she is a hard pull to the right to steer. With this 20 year old steering system, am i gonna run into problems?? Is there any maintenance to be done to a cable steering set up that needs to be done to prevent an issue?? Is this steering system at its age still reliable?

Ive been looking everywhere for a pair of elastic mesh containments to mount up on the sides in the bow. Not sure what they are called, but where on earth does one find these? I see alot of boats have them and they sure look slick. Looks like a must have, and with limited space im sold on the idea.

More questions later, thanks fellas!

[bobalong]

[QUOTE=packhuntr;226147]Thanks alot guys, there is some great info for contemplation. Bobalong, do you find that with all the extras drawing off the cranking battery, at the end of a full day your battery is run down?? How much juice do the electonics, radio, circ pump and such actually draw off a cranking battery? I noticed you said that youve installed another and designated it for electronics etc.

The only thing I have running off the starting battery is the filler pump, and that only runs for a few minutes every hour to exchange the water, and of course to start the boat.
I have used Ram mounts on my pontoon boat, and you will see them on almost every boat out there. I am sure some have failed but I have never heard of it yet.

[packhuntr]

:lol: Ive been editing and adding to that post for half an hour. Looks like you replied 10 minutes ago Bobalong.... Ya, i type with 2 fingers.:scared:

[Waxy]

Thanks alot guys, there is some great info for contemplation. Bobalong and Waxy, do you find that with all the extras drawing off the cranking battery, at the end of a full day your battery is run down?? How much juice do the electonics, radio, circ pump and such actually draw off a cranking battery? I noticed you said that youve installed another and designated it for electronics etc. I must say i like the idea of a three bank charger, with third bank for accessories battery, no worries.

No, especially if you're moving now and then and the engine can put some charge back into the battery. The sonars draw very little power, and if you put the livewells on auto so they cycle on and off, the don't seem to draw all that much power over the course of a day either. The only reason I'd add a battery for that is as part of an additional 2 battery system, I don't think I'd bother adding a dedicated battery for that.

However, if you had the space and a 3 bank charger, it's always better to have more battery power than you need than not enough.

I may not have the room though?? I do have additional space for an existing 2 battery tray at the rear on the opposite side as the existing ones, so it would be easy to balance out with 2 on each side, but im already a little transom heavy with just 2 counterbalancing my kicker motor. There is some storage space at the front that the 24 volt system could go, but it would be a dirty shame to lose it. That leads to another question, where do you guys have your batteries situated, and in the grand scheme of it all, how do you set up during hardwater while trying to keep the ballast weight and placement of equipment in mind? Im eye-balling things, but man, theres a heck of alot to be thinking about all at once here.

I'm running a pretty big boat, a 1900 Pro V, so I've got plenty of room for 4 batteries in the main battery compartment, which is right in the middle of the boat between the two consoles. It keeps the weight low and centered, so I don't worry about it. The starting battery is at the back.

If you don't have the luxury, then it's likely going to take some trial and error to get things balanced properly. Obviously, keeping the weight low and further forward is better for you, but eveything's a compromise.

What do you guys think of RAM mounting systems. Ive been leaning toward them for the electronics, both dash and bow. Anyone out there have or used these? Im wondering about how the ball joint will do over time through jarring shaking etc. Looks like theyve got it figured out with a rubber ball to reduce vibration to electronics, but im not sure about the longevity of the mount its self.

I've got several RAM mounts, and they all work pretty much flawlessly on everything from my dirtbike to my sonars. In a real pounding situation, they will creep a bit, but not enough to bother me.

I found these guys to always have the best price and stock on RAM stuff - http://www.gpscity.ca/

One other thing thats been bothering me abit. I dont have hydraulic steering, its cable steering. I looked into it, but at the price of the upgrade, approx +1000 bucks, i will have to stick with what ive got. Only problem i have is that she is a hard pull to the right to steer. With this 20 year old steering system, am i gonna run into problems?? Is there any maintenance to be done to a cable steering set up that needs to be done to prevent an issue?? Is this steering system at its age still reliable?

I've never heard of any failures.

Check on the cable to make sure it's in good shape, keep it lubed, and you should be fine.

Your hard steering might be able to be tweaked a little by adjusting the torque tab. Does it track straight under power?

Ive been looking everywhere for a pair of elastic mesh containments to mount up on the sides in the bow. Not sure what they are called, but where on earth does one find these? I see alot of boats have them and they sure look slick. Looks like a must have, and with limited space im sold on the idea.

I didn't look, but maybe search around these sites a little -

http://ca.binnacle.com/
http://www.boatersworld.com/

as well as, Cabelas, BassPro, etc...

Waxy

[Shmag]

Hey packhuntr, Deep cycle batteries on a boat is the only way to go. They were made to be run down and charged again and again. I wouldn't go any other way. My preference is the Optima.