roller trailer vs bunk trailer for new 18' lund

[walleyejunkie]

I have allways been told and thought that a bunk bed trailer was better for alum. boats whats your take on this as I have a new boat ordered and have read theres pros and cons to this. thanks ..

[huntsfurfish]

Bunk offers more support.

Thats the way I would go.

[TROLLER]

If you enjoy getting in the water and continually having to guide your boat on the trailer then by all means buy a roller

If , on the other hand you want to load easily especially when the wind is blowing hard get the bunk.

Bunk trailer is by far your best option, especially if you will be fishing solo.

[Evil69]

I've used both for my 18" runabout and now I will only go Bunk. More support and way easier to load....and less maintenance.

[walleyejunkie]

thanks fella,s I did order a bunk but just confirming which trailer to get

don

[Mackinaw]

Nothing but bunks

Mack

[Bigdad013]

Bunks are the way to go, only downside,if you are using daily in cold conditions, the boat can freeze to the bunks if they are wet and then freezing temps follow.

[man of steel]

Get the bunks with UHMW (plastic). Just make sure that you don't unhook before you have the boat over the water (UHMW very slippery). The boat centers very easily with the the trailer shallower and is still easier to winch than onto carpet bunks. I have had both rollers and bunks and this is the only way I would go if I had the choice.

[Habfan]

[QUOTE=man of steel;2693160]Get the bunks with UHMW (plastic). Just make sure that you don't unhook before you have the boat over the water (UHMW very slippery). The boat centers very easily with the the trailer shallower and is still easier to winch than onto carpet bunks. I have had both rollers and bunks and this is the only way I would go if I had the choice.[/ No need to winch if you have a carpeted bunk, just center the boat and drive it on, give it some gas and put on !!

[EZM]

I think everyone here agrees ....... Bunks is definitely the way to go. Rollers are great for rigid glass boats but not best suited for flexible aluminium.

You will appreciate the fact that Lund only uses ShoreLand'r trailers. The bunk models have 400% more surface area to support your boat compared to most new boats.

This is better for your hull in the long run and makes launching and loading easy as pie. The boat will center itself nicely even in rough waters once you find the "sweet spot" on how far to back in. For my 18' Tyee it is when the water just comes up to the load guides.

The bunks on your Shore Land'r will be 2 full length 2x6's instead of one crappy 2x4 bunk that isn't full length. I was surprised to find on almost every other major brand of boat had single bunks and most of them where 2 x 4.

When buying a boat, you should always also look at the motor and the trailer as they are a big part of that investment.

Your model will likely have a 3500 lb trailer which, again, is far better than all other major brands of boats on the market. Nice and beefy. You will be happy when on less than ideal gravel roads.

Other standard features are;
- bearing buddies,
- your lights will be LED's,
- you will have LED markers,
- standard brakes,
- heavy construction on the structural steel,
- full size wheels
- radial rubber

etc...

Excellent bunk trailers ....... you will be happy.

[Sea Hawk]

If you are ordering a new trailer, do you have the option of oil bath bearings on your hubs? I have oil bath hubs on my current boat trailer and I much prefer that over greased hubs with bearing buddy's. Not only do they never heat up, I have yet to require adjustment of the bearings. That is after numerous trips to the west coast. They have yet to leak a drop of oil, unlike my greased hubs with bearing buddy's which sooner or later, end up smearing your fender and/or boat with grease.

[Walleyedude]

I general bunks will offer better support, but there is very little difference in support for the boat between roller and bunk trailers if both are good quality and properly set up to match the boat's hull.

Roller trailers are designed to ease launching and loading in shallow water. They allow the boat to be pushed off and winched onto the trailer much easier than bunks. The downside is that loading is generally a bit more difficult, even with modern designs with load guides.

If you're typically launching at good launches with sufficient water, the bunk trailer will be far easier to load and unload. Most designs are self centering so the boat loads correctly and can be easily power loaded. I would be VERY careful about adding UHMW plastic to your bunks. It's really not necessary and a recipe for disaster IMHO.

Unless you're going to be launching in real shallow water or at unimproved launches, the bunk trailer was the best choice.

[EZM]

I would be VERY careful about adding UHMW plastic to your bunks. It's really not necessary and a recipe for disaster IMHO.


I would agree with that for a few reasons .....

1) You should be able to loose the safety chain and disconnect the entire boat (hook and strap completely off) without fear of the boat sliding off. The tow vehicle just backs down the final few feet of the launch and the boat just floats up and the momentum sends it gently floating away straight back. No need to have the driver get out and get wet or climb all over the bumper and trailer on a wet and slippery trailer. A bunk let's you do that with most launches (as long as they aren't to steep or lumpy. If you uncouple using the super slick UHMW or similar materials you better be over some water or that boat could slide off long before you want it to.

2) Every see the super slick bunk perform on washboard gravel roads? I have. I saw a guy with a very expensive jet boat wrestling his boat back into position after she had slid all over the place bending his tie down turnbuckles. The strap was abraded and ready to fray completely through. Standard carpet gives the boat enough friction to avoid this. The guy said he had been having problems with this since he "upgraded" to the UHMW.

3) If it's windy/choppy when you are loading up your boat, I assume most guys like me, leave the trailer a little more "out of the water" to ensure there you can maintain a little more speed while loading to keep on a straight line in the wind and waves (so the boat skid up onto the bunks) without the fear of crashing into your yoke. I don't know I'd try that with the super slick material. You might just crash your yoke (and your bow).

[man of steel]

I never power load for a few reasons. I am usually by myself or with my wife who does not get involved with launching or recovery other than throwing me the rope because of a disability. The launches that I commonly use are quite shallow so I have to drive in until the wheels of my truck are in the water so I have found that it is just easier for me to just throw on a pair of bootfoot waders or in summer walk into the water to get to the winch and just winch it up. Power loading is also frowned upon where I launch as it causes the gravel to be washed away from the end of the ramp when water levels are down. This is why the UHMW works for me. No gravel roads and "proper" tiedowns hold the boat in place with no movement.

[EZM]

I never power load for a few reasons. I am usually by myself or with my wife who does not get involved with launching or recovery other than throwing me the rope because of a disability. The launches that I commonly use are quite shallow so I have to drive in until the wheels of my truck are in the water so I have found that it is just easier for me to just throw on a pair of bootfoot waders or in summer walk into the water to get to the winch and just winch it up. Power loading is also frowned upon where I launch as it causes the gravel to be washed away from the end of the ramp when water levels are down. This is why the UHMW works for me. No gravel roads and "proper" tiedowns hold the boat in place with no movement.

Agreed .... guys that leave their trailer to high (and not far enough in the water) who are forced to gun their motors to get on the trailer aren't helping the life of their hulls, their bunks, their motors, props and certainly aren't doing anything good for the boat launched where the prop wash scours out the gravel and makes holes the rest of us have to deal with.

If you put your trailer in at the same depth (and relative angle) and find that sweet spot of momentum .... the boat will slide right into place with no need to gun your motor and without risk of overshooting the bunks and crashing your yoke.

For my boat its when the water reaches the bottom of the load guides, and my approach speed is about that of a steady med-fast walk. I cut the motor and am trimming up as she glides the last 10-15 feet and she comes to rest about a foot short of the yoke.

Every boat/trailer is a little different but after you have it dialed in, unless the boat launch angle is dramatically different (which most really aren't) it pretty much works out every time.

If it's choppy and windy, the trailer is a little less deep and the boat speed up a little faster (to avoid getting blown off track upon approach).

Bunk trailers are excellent in these conditions.

[Walleyedude]

Another tip is to back in far enough that the entire bunk is under water and get it wet and then pull forward to your ideal loading depth. That will make it a lot easier to get the boat that last 1-2 ft onto the trailer.

[MBOBREL]

Great advise and I will remember that on the next Trailer!

[ROA]

Another thing to watch out for is to ensure your bunks go all the way to the back of the transom for proper support. If your trailer is not set up right and the end of the bunks are to far forwards the hull will bend just ahead of the transom and create what is known as a "hook". If you get a hook your boat will not plane out worth a dam and you will have all kinds of problems.

[walleyejunkie]

thanks everybody for the great info I,ll make sure at set up time

[Jamie Black R/T]

Another thing to watch out for is to ensure your bunks go all the way to the back of the transom for proper support. If your trailer is not set up right and the end of the bunks are to far forwards the hull will bend just ahead of the transom and create what is known as a "hook". If you get a hook your boat will not plane out worth a dam and you will have all kinds of problems.

My buddies $55,000 ProV came like this from a reputable dealer...the winch post up front didnt have a tight bolt out of 4. Didnt even notice the boat sliding off the trailer backwards till his transom straps were getting cut by the transom bottom edge....scary!!..Theres not a lund dealer in alberta that knows what they are doing...check this stuff out before you leave the lot.

[EZM]

My buddies $55,000 ProV came like this from a reputable dealer...the winch post up front didnt have a tight bolt out of 4. Didnt even notice the boat sliding off the trailer backwards till his transom straps were getting cut by the transom bottom edge....scary!!..Theres not a lund dealer in alberta that knows what they are doing...check this stuff out before you leave the lot.

The trailers are assembled by ShoreLand'r. To blame the dealer for an unsecured bolt/nut that should have been tightened and inspected by the manufacturer isn't fair to the dealer in my opinion.

It's also unreasonable that they would inspect every single nut and bolt on your boat and trailer.

I can tell you, without a doubt, Lund does not even hesitate to rectify any issue you have promptly and without question. Their customer service is absolutely benchmark.

My big butt chewed up the collar on my pilots chair because I didn't seat the parts together properly (having removed it on a previous occasion). I asked the dealer to get me a new part, and I expected to pay for it (it was over a year later) ..... it came in, overnight express, at no charge from Lund.

I had some snaps on my cover that came undone that I asked them to repair at my spring service (My boat sees allot of highway travel and wear and tear) ..... I expected to pay for it ..... over a year old ....... guess what .... no bill .... no problem ...... thank you for your business.

Lund stands behind their product. The dealer I bought it from (Riverside Honda/Lund ) stands behind their product.

I don't think that's an accurate statement, nor do I think it's fair considering the circumstances you mentioned.

[Nova]

Bunks with load guides are great. Very easy to load. I've been asked by several people (most new to boating) why loading my boat was quick and effortless, and that combo gets all the credit.

There have been 2 really bad launches in the last 2 years where roller would have been better, but everything is a compromise.

[Jamie Black R/T]

The trailers are assembled by ShoreLand'r. To blame the dealer for an unsecured bolt/nut that should have been tightened and inspected by the manufacturer isn't fair to the dealer in my opinion.

It's also unreasonable that they would inspect every single nut and bolt on your boat and trailer.

I can tell you, without a doubt, Lund does not even hesitate to rectify any issue you have promptly and without question. Their customer service is absolutely benchmark.

My big butt chewed up the collar on my pilots chair because I didn't seat the parts together properly (having removed it on a previous occasion). I asked the dealer to get me a new part, and I expected to pay for it (it was over a year later) ..... it came in, overnight express, at no charge from Lund.

I had some snaps on my cover that came undone that I asked them to repair at my spring service (My boat sees allot of highway travel and wear and tear) ..... I expected to pay for it ..... over a year old ....... guess what .... no bill .... no problem ...... thank you for your business.

Lund stands behind their product. The dealer I bought it from (Riverside Honda/Lund ) stands behind their product.

I don't think that's an accurate statement, nor do I think it's fair considering the circumstances you mentioned.
Im sure you detect some bitterness in my post. We'll stay on topic of trailers and not get into the other issues.

A loose winch post causing the boat to slide back over 18 inches needs to be caught. Especially when the boat was back for service on other issues (dealer caused) two times prior to him noticing the loose post. Surely there was a reason they kept having to replace transom straps?? Unreal.

Im glad you have had good dealing with riverside. That was not the dealer im referring to. Nor was it the dealer im still fighting with a year later.

My personal boat issues are not lunds to fix. Im sure if it was a quality issue with the product they would step up. But they have assured me the laziness and stupidity of my dealer was not theres to fix. Nor should it be.

Check the bolts on your trailer is all i should have typed lol

Take care!