View Full Version : Knife sharpening
01-05-2007, 05:09 PM
I just picked up a cheap diamond sharpening kit from Princess Auto. I have been able to get an ok edge which will work for regular kitchen knifes etc.. but im not sure it it is me or if I need a higher grit stone to get the razor edge I want.
The fine stone in the set is 360 grit. To me this seems low and I would like a 1000+ for the final sharpening.
Can anyone recommend a really high quality sharpening kit ? Or is 360 high enough ?(Personally I feel it it much to low)
01-05-2007, 06:15 PM
For your finishing edge i would have to suggest a steel. When our boning knives get a little dull we run it through a knife sharpener or use a wet stone then use a steel cause the steel align's the microscopic teeth that are on a knife which makes it nice and sharp.
Ken aka Savage
01-05-2007, 06:37 PM
My good sharpening kit is a Lansky Diamond Grit setup with eight different stone/diamond combos from very course to ultra fine, not sure but I think the finest stone is a 1000 so your 360 is a medium course stone. I have not seen the Princess Auto set, does it have a guide system to set the angle to sharpen your blade to? My Lansky sharpener does an awesome job of sharpening every knife I have ever used it on. You are correct that the finer stone is needed to make the final edge, I use the course grits to reshape & remove nicks from the blade then work up to the finest grit for my final edge. Between major sharpenings I often use a small Lansky Sharpener with ceramic rods to polish the edge which does well as long as there is no damage like nick's or burr's on the blade from hard use.
01-05-2007, 06:44 PM
If you have the budget I would go with the belt sharpener. $300 bucks is fairly steep but I just had my knives done this year by a buddy and in minutes they where razor sharp.
yer likely gunna laugh at me but here goes anyway,My wife has this white plastic thing that you set on the counter and its made by henckels,solingen,germany.Its got 2 sets of wheels in it and you just pull your knives through it. The thing is amazing. My uncle henry will shave the hair off smooth as a babies ###.Looks like the thing is worth about 40 bucks and she says you can buy them at the Bay or the knife store, anyways thought I would throw that out there for ya. I've used lots of different things but like I said,,wow
01-05-2007, 07:43 PM
LanskyFor 13 years now love it.
I would go with the belt sharpener.Never heard of it any where a guy or gal can look at one ????:D
I just had my knives done this year by a buddy and in minutes they where razor sharp. I like the sound of that any more info you could share thanks.:D
01-05-2007, 08:00 PM
I use a wet stone but am not sure of the grid.
A steel will not in fact sharpen a knife, it will return the blade of a sharp knife to full funcion again. If you start with a sharp knife and use a steel after every use, you will always have a sharp blade, providing you use and store your knife properly. Rule of thumb= WASH . . . DRY . . . STEEL . . . PUT AWAY!
If you have a blunt knife you need to use some sort of a sharpening tool first. Preferably a wet stone. I've watched some guys use only a steel to sharpen their knives. :rolleyes
Another word of caution steels wear out. A good steel should have triangular ridges. If they are semi circular (cheap) don't waste your time, throw it in the garbage can. Buy a good one. I've probably wore out several steels in my life time.
I heard diamond steels are suppose to be good but I have no experience with them. These ones will actually sharpen your knife but are very expensive.
German steel is the best you can buy and the edge on your knife will likely be determined by the quality of steel that knife is made of.
01-05-2007, 08:14 PM
I'll add a vote for the Lansky or one of the similar models for sharpening, and a steel to touch up as you go.
01-05-2007, 08:53 PM
I am no good with a stone or steal so I spent a ton of money on the Spyderco Triangle Sharpmaker. A ton of money, but worth it. The very first knife I sharpened with it, I could shave paper with it. Costly, but one he|| of sharpener.
Recommended to anyone. Also, it was sharpen anything.....anything.
01-05-2007, 09:49 PM
I got some wet stones and a strope. Works like a hot damn.
01-05-2007, 09:55 PM
We are slowly converting over to using Cutco knives, so far they have impressed. We only have one that is not the Double "D" edge, and it hasn't needed to be sharpened, yet at least. We are moving to these after how well my hunting knife performed last fall, and also the wife doesn't seem to like running the knives over the steel, and I never seem to be home when she is making supper so we just eliminated the need for sharpening. So far so good.....
01-05-2007, 11:35 PM
Same here Brady,
Tucs experience with steel notwithstanding, I've only used a steel to sharpen dull blades, and keep a sharp edge on all the knives in the house. My wife just can't seem to learn how to use a steel properly.
But after my experience with the Cutco hunting knife this fall (2 moose, 2 deer, 1 antelope, no sharpening), we've purchased some of their kitchen knives as well (great Christmas gifts). Pricey - but she won't have to mash a tomato to a pulp with a dull blade anymore!
good topic , where is a good place to get cutcos,steels, lansky etc red deer area? any suggestions would be appreciated. thanks
01-06-2007, 12:57 AM
Interesting how perceptions are different. The wife was sold a cutco knife by a slick salesman. You won't find her trading in the collection of Henckel cutlery for those cutco's anytime soon. Didn't hold an edge much better and was far harder to sharpen.
The steel makes an excellent edge for cutting meat. It is not a razor edge but rather like a micro-serration. A good steel will sharpen a dull knife. They are best used as regular maintenance.
There is a reason why every old time barber shop had a leather strop hanging on the chair. It is the quickest and most reliable way to get a razor edge. You must have a knife edge that is sharper than most folks keep their knives before you will be able to hone it on a strop. A properly prepared edge will go to razor sharp in about a dozen swipes.
360 grit is too coarse for a fine edge.
If you want a quick, cheap honing plate for that 360 grit edge rubber cement some 600 grit silicon carbide paper onto a piece of plate glass or similar flat, smooth surface. Wet with water and hone away. A few swipes and you will almost see a reflection on the polish.
01-06-2007, 06:02 AM
This is one of the best threads i have read in this forum in a long time......congrats on such a fine subject, we need more like this. just one more thing...... i'm not sure of the grit but i got a broken wheel stone from an optical store in downtown edmonton, they used it for cleaning up the edge of glasses and it is a really fine wetstone.seems to work on the finishing end..........jc
01-06-2007, 09:10 AM
This belt sharpener was used by a wood carver and I don't know where he go it but I saw it advertised in his wood carving mags.
Here's a site with a different type sharpener (http://users.ameritech.net/knives/field.htm)
And here is one just like my buddy has Power Sharpener (http://www.chippingaway.com/WoodCarving/SharpeningTools/UltimatePowerSharpener.htm) This one is here in Canada so the prices should be in real money.
01-06-2007, 11:55 AM
The princess auto fine diamond stone is too coarse for knifes. It needs to be 1000+. A good japanese wet stone is at Lee Valley tools, 1000 / 4000 grit combo. A blade guide is also available.
The hard and soft Arkansas stone are good as well.
The cheastest stone I've used is homemade. I lightly glue automotive wet sanding paper to a flat piece of wood ( a strip of sanded wood wood flooring, sanded so the glue will stick) Turns into a inexpensive and effective wet stone. I also curl the paper around the block and staple it on the backside.
01-06-2007, 01:33 PM
Lansky gets my vote. I would recommend their 5 stone kit as well as the stand that holds the jig. Anybody can get knives super sharp very quickly!
Once you have the proper angle on your edge, your knives will be even easier to sharpen. I've had mine for twenty years, and it is getting to be time to replace the stones.
Also, Lee Valley is a great place to get any sharpenning supplies you need.
Re: Knife sharpening
01-06-2007, 06:45 PM
Another vote for the Lansky. I've been using it for a couple years and it's the best thing. Especially if you use it right and finish off with the yellow coloured stone.
Steels do not sharpen
01-07-2007, 09:09 PM
I have the Lanskey system and love it. Steels do not sharpen knives. They "touch" up the edge. A meat cutter told me that a knife edge starts to bend over when used, the steel puts it back straight again. If you use the steel wrong you can bend it the wrong way. BL
01-11-2007, 04:54 PM
Well, I went ahead and purchased the lansky professional system. And a few other items for it. For a $91 US bill I better be able to shave with my knives after this.
Thanks for the pointers etc.. ill update this thread when I get the system and post my review on it.
01-14-2007, 07:55 PM
Hi, I ended up buying three custom knives from a new friend in B.C. They are all belt sharpened and they are the sharpest knives I have ever owned. They are to the point of, if you mishandle one and it is going to drop ...run, never try catching it. here's some pics, sorry about the pic quality.
Oh, and I get free resharpening for as long as my knife maker is able to do it.:eek
01-14-2007, 08:08 PM
I like the knifes But "the bottom one looks real good love that shape.":D all in all very nice knifes.
02-22-2007, 03:54 PM
I got my Lansky in the mail a week or two back. Works quite well. I could put an edge on my leatherman that could cut hair off the back of my hand. Large knifes are a little harder to work with. And the clamp could be of better quality, my beef with it is that it has problems grabbing some knives and that tiny tightening screw could be better when you want to hold a larger knife.
But it is good at maintaining an angle on the blades edge. I just wish It was easier to clamp down on knifes with it.
Worth the money ? Somewhat, if they had a better clamp then yes.
Sharpens knifes? Definitely
Recommend to others ? Perhaps
02-22-2007, 04:30 PM
Arch, nice looking Knifes! The stag handle looks awesome, might be a stipid question, but is the bottom one a skinning knife, I too like the shape looks like that is what it is for.
I too went the Brady route and bought a hunting and fishing knife from the cutco booth at the sportsman show we have a set of the kitchen knifes and really like them.
02-22-2007, 08:21 PM
I too went the Brady route
Hmmm, does that mean I get some kind of commission?????
Ya I know, the cheques will be in the mail. :rollin :rollin :rollin
02-24-2007, 07:32 PM
This guy make an awsome blade he's even a meat cutter so he knows his sh!!twww.zyworld.com/BruceShan/Home.htm (http://www.zyworld.com/BruceShan/Home.htm)
02-24-2007, 11:27 PM
My daughter's Sales Management class at the U of C is selling Cutco knives as a marketing project. 35% of the sales go to the Children's Wish Foundation and the rest to Cutco. The class takes no profit. She will be in the Red Deer area in the next couple of weekends and could show you the knives. Just PM me if you are interested. You can also go to Cutco.com and see a price list for their products and find out more info on their products. I think that Cutco only sells through sales reps and they only get their business through referrals (i.e. no door to door, no phone hassles, etc.)
02-25-2007, 12:34 AM
am no good with a stone or steal so I spent a ton of money on the Spyderco Triangle Sharpmaker. A ton of money, but worth it. The very first knife I sharpened with it, I could shave paper with it. Costly, but one he|| of sharpener.
Recommended to anyone. Also, it was sharpen anything.....anything.
Where can a guy get one of these?
02-25-2007, 01:14 AM
I own sharpeners that include Lansky, Gatco, and Spyderco's Sharpmaker. But the only sharpener I use is the one pictured below. $6 and 30 seconds to a razor sharp knife. It's stupid that something this cheap works that good.
02-25-2007, 12:52 PM
Wynyard2 - pm sent
02-25-2007, 12:54 PM
Where's you get the '2 -step sharpeners'?
Looks more portable than carrying a long steel sharpener in my fannypack.
02-25-2007, 01:07 PM
I have been using the Gatco diamond kit for a few years now.I prefer the Gatco kit to the Lansky kit although both are of a similar design.
02-25-2007, 01:31 PM
Ive been looking at belt sharpeners recently as well. Ive found the highest grit on belt's to be much lower then stones. Is it just that a belt sharpener does not require as high a grit to get the same edge ?
02-25-2007, 03:47 PM
Canmoron, I can't remember. I googled them and ordered from the first place that would ship to Canada. I know I couldn't find them up here.
I just use a steel and sharpen on the wheel once a year or even every second year. For hunting i just buy those knives at peavey mart with the Swedish blade i believe (may have changed). High quality steel with a real crappy handle. Works great and if i loose it i'm out $12. I have the good ones at home like most guys as well but you can't beat those little peavey mart knives for field dressing and skinning.
02-26-2007, 05:46 PM
I looked up that smiths sharpener. Best I could find was 6 for $37 US shipped. Works out to about $6.20 US each not including customs charges.
This was from dadsknifeshop.com. They have a minimum $15 order in effect.
And if you order a single one shipping is still about $11 but about $13 for 6. May be other better places, but other places charged $20+ for shipping and still required a minimum order.
If anyone else can find a place to buy them online, I would be interested.
For $6 its worth trying out. And if it works as good as chuch says, it would make a good portable. May have to do a group buy to avoid paying $16+ for one of them.
On another note, I found one on Ebay. And asked about shipping to Canada. I got the best laugh of my day with this response.
Never heard of Canada. Where is it at -- close to Alabama.
:rollin :rollin He has to be joking... but you never know :D
Wonder what smart ass comment I should send back :D
//Edit: I replied with this.
Its this tiny little country on the northern US border, we are known for Maple syrup, back bacon, beavers, and igloos. Our population consists primarily of hockey players, and lumberjacks. The beer is stronger and the weather colder.
02-26-2007, 06:22 PM
Interesting thread, does anyone else here use the Lee Valley hard felt wheel & polishing compound?
02-26-2007, 07:37 PM
LOL, that is too funny. I have bought a lot of stiff on ebay, and I have never got anything like that. :rollin :rollin :rollin
02-27-2007, 12:34 PM
Just tell him yes, Canada is next to Alabama. Probably so stupid he will believe it, and ship your product post haste :lol
02-27-2007, 07:23 PM
I just picked up one of those little yellow sharpener's that Chuck showed for $7.95 at Cdn.Tire.Man does it ever work good.I got a good edge on some kitchen knives that I have'nt been able to get an edge on for years.
I use theLee Valley felt wheel and polishing compounds for knives that haven't been used as farm implements or screwdrivers(unlike the 3 safe queens farmer/electrician Arch65 posted earlier) this gives a razor edge in about 2 minutes of work followed by a few strokes of the steel.If a blade has been abused by said farmer,a $45 Canuck tire wet wheel gets it close enough for the felt wheel
02-28-2007, 12:18 AM
I make knives for a hobbie I can teach you how to put an edge on any knife. The most important thing to remember is to let the blade slide across the stone with very little pressure and lots of oil on the stone. Try to keep you angles consistant and not to sharp the less angle you put on a blade the longer it will hold it's edge. A tool I use is a 36" belt sander and 280 grt with the green rugh do not force the blade or hold in one spot for to long it wil burn and that takes the temper out of it, after that happeneds it will never hold an edge. Then I use the white rugh and a piece of leather 12 to 14" long to finish the edge to get the razor sharp edge. PM me if you want some help.
04-11-2009, 12:09 PM
I've been using a tungsten electrode, as used by tig welders, to put the final edge on my knives. They are cheap, effective, and very portable(3/32" x 6", or cut down length as req'd) . I've been touching up all my knives in the last few weeks and as a result, my arms are almost hairless from checking edges :rolleyes:.
04-11-2009, 12:16 PM
I have never been very good at sharpening. But find the Lansky kits to be simple and amazingly effective. I've used them for 20 years now and have two. They are easy and portable. I have the second one to use when in the field. And the other stays at home. I have also used Tenesse walking sticks (ceramic) to clean them up.
I do also have the Princess Auto diamond stone with 4 different grits on each side; but, like someone else mentioned it removed material rather then sharpening. So I use it for sharpening equipment such as the many drawknives I use in my business. For this application, where they are too big to use a Lansky it works really well. I also use a wet wheel on my equipment but find the P.A. diamond is just as good and I think it cost me $9.99 on sale.:tongue2:
By the way, if any of you would like to sharpen shears, AXES, and other such things Lansky makes an awesome sharpening stone for this call "The Puck" which is exactly what it looks like.
I'm a UFA member so have found out that UFA will be listing a really decent selection of Lansky stuff including the kits in a week or two. Was at the UFA in Red Deer last weekend but was so geared up buying my 3 new guns that I did not walk around and notice if the Lansky's were on the shelf yet...
My two cents:wave:
04-11-2009, 02:08 PM
i use the lansky system it works for me,one thing my dad tought me was to run your knife up and down a leather boot it takes the feather edge off.a good leather work boot works fine for this.
I have tried them all, every jig set up - Dimonds to stones .
The best is tungstin .I have used the tungstin sticks but hard to keep the angle the same with every stroke until I found the Accusharp moddle.
I have only found it at Whole sale and the fishing center in Edmonton ($12.00)
Other brands have tryed to copy it like lansky...do not buy thiers even if they look the same ..because they do not work .
Check it out !
04-12-2009, 12:20 PM
For field skinning if needd, I also use an uccusharp - for about the last 15 years.
I also use Lee tools in my shop, and an aciant Herders ( different company from Herters!:)) steel for my carving knives.
when fleshing beavers I use ceramic stick and a guide block for a very keen edge .
For broadheads I use a set of single cut mil files that I glued to a block for the correct angle for my Zwickeys, then use the accusharp....
04-12-2009, 10:39 PM
If you don't sharped very often, 10x12 1/4" plate glass. Lay 9x11 sheet of sand paper on it and awy you go. Use Silicon Carbide wet paper start at about 400 depending on how dull your tool is. I work my way up to 1000 for knives and up to 2000 for woodworking tools. keep the paper wet front and back the water on the back will keep the paper from sliding around. Works real well for tools because of the flat surface although it can get a little expensive if you do a lot of sharpening.
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