Any painters and finishing carpenters here?

[skoalzie]

So i am working on finishing my basement and curious on the order of painting and installing mouldings? Do I pre spray the mouldings and do my first coat on the walls first and then install the mouldings and do second coats later? Just curious on the order of this part?
Thanks for any input

[RancheroMan]

Finish painting your walls and put a the first coat of paint on your trim/moulding before installing them (you'll need a lot of space or some racks to stack it up). Install your trim/moulding then caulk all the joints and were it meets the wall with good quality, paintable silicon. Then, do your second coat of trim/moulding paint. If you have a steady hand, it's doable without having to tape everything off.

[calgarychef]

When I did my house I painted the mouldings a different sheen than the ceiling and different colour than the walls. A huge pain in the butt, however it does look nice.

Prepainting mouldings might not help much but priming them does. After you nail them up and make your joins on the long rooms and fill in the gaps between walls and ceilings you'll have to paint them a lot anyway. I'm still not sure what's the best way to go. I sprayed a few of mine in place and although it looks good I'm not sure if it was worth the effort compared to a good paintbrush.

One thing I can tell you is learn to make a coped joint for your inside corners and life gets a lot more bearable. Use painters dap for filling long cracks and gaps then use wood filler for nail holes. I can never get dap to wipe off perfectly flush with the wood, it's either a dimple or a bump for me.p and it's not sand able if it's not perfect. Actually I like glazing putty instead of wood filler. Downside of the putty is it leaves a red oxide coloured dust when you sand it but it does sand very nicely.

[skoalzie]

Awesome. I can make that work and I have the room for racks and doors.

[CaberTosser]

I'm no pro but I found that a good method for dressing MDF moldings around the brad nails was a small 6" file, it was great for knocking down the little lumps created by the fastener and then follow with some filler after that.

[pikergolf]

Paint your walls, paint your base boards. Install base boards fill nail holes, caulk as needed and finish by touching up base boards.

[skoalzie]

Awesome. Should be ready for all that in 3 or 4 weeks. Look forward to the challenge. Painting is an art for sure! Seen really good jobs and really bad jobs. Doubt it'll be a really good job but hopefully it can look fairly good any how! Thanks for the advice!

[blackmamba]

Are you spraying doors and casings or doing it by hand ?? Are you putting carpet on the flooring or a hard surface product ??

[skoalzie]

I am going to spray the doors and mouldings. Was thinking about spraying and back rolling the walls. And we have one bathroom downstairs that will be Lino and the rest is bedrooms and a family/tv room. That will all be carpet.
Skoalzie

[Clgy_Dave2.0]

In new construction it goes like this:


boarding
taping
trim (base, case, built-ins etc)
spraying all trim (lacquer)
walls (rolling)
cabinets, tile, electrical fixtures, plumbing fixtures, etc
carpet and/or hardwood
touch ups.

[Scruffie]

If Painting only a single basement, I wouldn't bother spraying the walls. Regular cutting and rolling would be less messy, the easiest and just as fast in the long run. For Crown, Base moulding and door casings I find it quick and easy to finish paint/stain the material on saw horses and stack to dry. Then I use a Pinnailer for the installation. No nail holes to fill and touch up and you have a finished product attached to the walls requiring no more paint. With the exception of maybe a little touchup on the joints. Depending on how good your cutting and fitting on the corners were, the Only filling required will be with a little Alex Plus in the bad cuts (if painting) or coloured putty if staining. Pinnailers are excellent Must have tools if doing any finishing carpentry. Combine that with a 2" finish nailer and you can almost throw your hammer and nails away. ;)

[Gerry]

The doors:
One thing about the doors.
The warranty is invalid if the top and bottom edges of the doors are not painted.
I did professional painting for over 20 years and ran into this problem twice on repaints.
The molding:
Prime your walls then install the moldings Fill the dimples using drywall mud after first coat, easier sanding, do any caulking that needs done. Sand the dimples out with a sanding sponge, sand lightly though, Do second coat. To finish them, just paint the face of them with a brush. No need to redo the edges with finish coat. Do the same with any moldings. I'd really recommend not spraying your primer on the walls, it makes it a lot harder to sand between coats, use a roller.

[mooseknuckle]

Only thing I will add... as a jack of all master of none. That DAP product works very well for filling any gaps, holes, etc etc. Easy too apply and paints very well.

[RBI]

first and foremost , is " patients " , which ever order you do things in , expect it to be slow/tedious ( assuming you want a quality job ) .

In a new home build , usually , all the trim was put up first , nail headed and gap filled , sanded and sprayed , doors , jams , casing , and any baseboard that was going over carpet .

Baseboard going on lino , hardwood , laminate anything that has to be installed before baseboards , typically get first coat ( sometimes second as well ) before being installed .

Once these baseboards are installed , you will still need to nail head , gap fill , and sand ( nailhead dimples ) , and then they pretty much still need a full coat of paint anyway.

I personally take the time when installing baseboards to use glue and layout a tape measure , ( so I can hit the studs exactly ) therefore needing less brads and having the base finish tighter to the wall . ( less nail heading and gap filling ).

I was on one job some time back , where a 'Finishing carpenter was doing the base ( paint grade ) I watched to see how a " pro " does it , and he seemed to be shooting a lot more brads then i would have expected , and when I inquired about such , his reply was that the wall was kind of wanky , and who cares , cause it the painter's that have to do the nail heading ,pop pop pop goes 3 mores brads .

Its far easier ,where carpet is going in to fully install your baseboards to the end finish before the carpet goes in. ( typically set them up 3/8 " off the floor ) . No worries about paint on the carpet :).

The other couple of things I would suggest are , when ever possible , finish each stage of the process , before you start the next . ie: all your prepainting , then all your installs ( that can be done pre flooring ) etc. ,and I would also suggest that that if your bathroom has tub/shower , not to use MDF baseboards , go to a finger-joint pine .

And generally , I always do the finish coat of paint on the walls last .

[blackmamba]

In new construction it goes like this:


boarding
taping
trim (base, case, built-ins etc)
spraying all trim (lacquer)
walls (rolling)
cabinets, tile, electrical fixtures, plumbing fixtures, etc
carpet and/or hardwood
touch ups.



This^^^^^ .. install all base ( leave a 3/8 gap off subfloor so carpet guys can kick in carpet ) in carpeted areas and spray them when spraying doors n casing .. leave base pre- sprayed base off in hard surface areas and Install once flooring has been completed ..

[Sneeze]

In new construction it goes like this:


boarding
taping
- Prime & first coat
trim (base, case, built-ins etc)
spraying all trim (lacquer)
- spraying uninstalled baseboards for hard flooring areas
- cabinets
walls (rolling)
- flooring
- install baseboards in hard floor areas, bondo, foam roll
electrical fixtures, plumbing fixtures, etc
touch ups.


Edited your list slightly... there are many ways to skin this cat. Light fixtures after flooring to keep dust off them. Prime and first coat before installing trim to cut down on labor cutting in.. Cabinets happen before walls get rolled out to cut down on paint and cutting in time. Baseboards are pre-sprayed to keep brush lines off them.

[Sneeze]

This^^^^^ .. install all base ( leave a 3/8 gap off subfloor so carpet guys can kick in carpet ) in carpeted areas and spray them when spraying doors n casing .. leave base pre- sprayed base off in hard surface areas and Install once flooring has been completed ..

Always check with your flooring supplier - don't just assume 3/8. If you are going with a good underlay 3/8 will create a rolled appearance heading into the baseboard. If its office or el cheapo carpet 3/8 will be too much. 1/2" works better for heavy pile, heavy underlay product selection.

[Clgy_Dave2.0]

Edited your list slightly... there are many ways to skin this cat. Light fixtures after flooring to keep dust off them. Prime and first coat before installing trim to cut down on labor cutting in.. Cabinets happen before walls get rolled out to cut down on paint and cutting in time. Baseboards are pre-sprayed to keep brush lines off them.

Yes there are different ways. The builders that do over 500 homes a year all adopt the order I posted. I've worked on Cedarglens, Broadviews, Reidbuilt, Avi, Shane, etc and all use pretty much that order. The odd builder will roll first coat of colour before tile and fixtures, and then come back at the end to roll final coat to cut down on touch-ups.

I don't understand your bolded part though. If cabinets go in before walls are rolled, they have to cut around and mask all cabinetry. adding time.

A lot of the finishing trades will work with/before/after depending on scheduling. Sometimes fixtures go in after carpet...sometimes not. Some baseboards are pre-sprayed (especially large base that has to go on top of finished floor). But on spec homes, all trim is installed, then sprayed. (except of course over hard floor finishes)

[Sneeze]

I don't understand your bolded part though. If cabinets go in before walls are rolled, they have to cut around and mask all cabinetry. adding time.



In my experience asking painters to know what walls and corners get covered by cabinets doesn't work.

Prime and first coat before cabinets, after cabinets are in they don't have to tape against cabinets.

Builders that allow brush marks on baseboards don't pre-spray base boards.

As I said, lots of different ways. My way has worked great for me to cut down on time, deliver a perfect product and save me $$$ wiping dust out of chandeliers. Your, his or hers mileage may vary.

[Clgy_Dave2.0]

Yup. I just did a house in Bearspaw where we did all tiling before any painting.
Sprayers came in to spray all the finishing....they needed 3 months!!! :lol:
That's okay though...stone guys were there for two years!


http://www.outdoorsmenforum.ca/attachment.php?attachmentid=117256&d=1453742990


117256

[skoalzie]

That's awesome. Thanks for all the input. I will just work slowly and make sure I do the job as best as I can! I do spray foam and know how everything works before the drywall / taping stage but have no clue after that. So I will find a way that works and go with it!!

Looks like quite the shack Dave! She's a dandy!!

Skoalzie