PDA

View Full Version : General Snowmobile Maintenance ???


reddeerguy2015
01-25-2016, 09:51 PM
HI all,

I've got a 97 Polaris Indy 700 Triple, 2-stroke.

Bought it last fall, runs good, etc.

What should I be doing for general preventative maintenence ??

I run premium ethanol-free fuel with seafoam added to every tank.

I run Shell Ultra-Premium synthetic 2-stroke oil in it.

I put new high quality spark plugs in when I bought it, and have yet to foul one - carry the old ones as spares.

I grease all the zirc fittings I can find regularly.

When in storage the track is up lifted off the ground.

Carry a spare belt with me.

What am I missing ?? Things I should be doing that I'm not ?? When should one drain and fill the cooling system?? With what??

Tips from you sled-heads would be great!

rugatika
01-25-2016, 10:23 PM
Change the chain case oil at the start of the season. (or end)

skidderman
01-25-2016, 10:30 PM
Change all of the fuel lines as the old ones get hard and crack.

Headdamage
01-25-2016, 10:32 PM
You should also check all the bogie wheel bearings to make sure they are not on the way out. I just lost two bearings 50km out this past weekend but made it back ok. In inspection two more were about to fail, had that happened I would have been screwed.

Sooner
01-25-2016, 10:35 PM
Always carry a new belt cause you can burn one real fast. Got room for a small jerry can on the tunnel or a gas rack for the tunnel?

Most sleds have a small tool kit, find yours and see if you need to add a few.

Change the belt in the garage so your not trying to do it in 4 ft of snow and minus temps for the first time.

As mentioned, new chain chain case oil every season, better to replace after the season ends in the spring. Get new stuff in there so it sits for the summer with no filings etc. Pull the dip stick and see if its nice and clear, check the magnet on the end for filings every couple trips. If its dirty now, replace it and again when your done riding.

Fuel saver in the tank and run it though before parking it for the summer. We dump it in on our last ride, 10 mins from the truck.

Tow strap, you are riding a Polaris.... sorry had to doo it(ski doo guy here)

reddeerguy2015
01-25-2016, 10:35 PM
Change the chain case oil at the start of the season. (or end)

What would you run for chain case oil ?? I did a quick google search and got anything from atf, to 30 wt engine oil and 90wt gear oil

reddeerguy2015
01-25-2016, 10:39 PM
You should also check all the bogie wheel bearings to make sure they are not on the way out. I just lost two bearings 50km out this past weekend but made it back ok. In inspection two more were about to fail, had that happened I would have been screwed.

Might be a stupid question, but what's a good procedure for doing this ?? First sled and still learning!

rugatika
01-25-2016, 10:51 PM
What would you run for chain case oil ?? I did a quick google search and got anything from atf, to 30 wt engine oil and 90wt gear oil

I run skidoo xps synthetic chaincase oil. I'm switching to mobil 1 75-90 synthetic gear oil or amsoil next season though. (cheaper)

Polaris likely has their own "recommended" brand as well.

reddeerguy2015
01-25-2016, 11:10 PM
Yeah they do upon looking a little harder. Will do that next set of days off, since I've never done it since I got the sled and who knows before that.

Any recommendations for coolant ?

Headdamage
01-25-2016, 11:35 PM
I lift the back of the sled up with an engine hoist so that the entire track is off of the ground then loosen the track so that I can spin each bogie by hand and listen/feel for any bearing problems. The end bogies and the upper bogies can be hard to get free of the track but they are also the most important bogies so it is worth doing. Failing being able to spin them you can at least grab hold of them and see if they feel loose side to side.

reddeerguy2015
01-26-2016, 12:05 AM
I lift the back of the sled up with an engine hoist so that the entire track is off of the ground then loosen the track so that I can spin each bogie by hand and listen/feel for any bearing problems. The end bogies and the upper bogies can be hard to get free of the track but they are also the most important bogies so it is worth doing. Failing being able to spin them you can at least grab hold of them and see if they feel loose side to side.

Noted. I will probably save this one for the end of the season. Thank you.

does it ALL outdoors
01-26-2016, 12:19 AM
Change the belt in the garage so your not trying to do it in 4 ft of snow and minus temps for the first time.
Great advice. Change all the fluids and plugs and stop wasting money on sea foam

Mangosteen
01-26-2016, 05:56 AM
Take good care of the Triple Cylinder Triple Exhaust Pipe Sled. It will be a collectors item in the future. Kind of like the H1 and H2 Kawasaki triple Triple motorbikes that you have to pay dearly for these days.

They just don't make them any more due to the new rider forward geometries but these machines are still quite the thrill to run on the farm or lake or nice trails.

Nothing sounds as good and so smooth.

I still grin from ear to ear when I fire up my 03 MachZ even though I have the more modern ones. Nothing like it!!

Full Curl
01-26-2016, 06:50 AM
Check track tension/ condition.

Check sliders.

Clean clutches.

reddeerguy2015
01-26-2016, 07:33 AM
Take good care of the Triple Cylinder Triple Exhaust Pipe Sled. It will be a collectors item in the future. Kind of like the H1 and H2 Kawasaki triple Triple motorbikes that you have to pay dearly for these days.

They just don't make them any more due to the new rider forward geometries but these machines are still quite the thrill to run on the farm or lake or nice trails.

Nothing sounds as good and so smooth.

I still grin from ear to ear when I fire up my 03 MachZ even though I have the more modern ones. Nothing like it!!

Good advice there. Not much is faster in a straight line and when it hooks up - hold on. They're pretty fun to ride.

darren32
01-26-2016, 07:46 AM
Take good care of the Triple Cylinder Triple Exhaust Pipe Sled. It will be a collectors item in the future. Kind of like the H1 and H2 Kawasaki triple Triple motorbikes that you have to pay dearly for these days.

They just don't make them any more due to the new rider forward geometries but these machines are still quite the thrill to run on the farm or lake or nice trails.

Nothing sounds as good and so smooth.

I still grin from ear to ear when I fire up my 03 MachZ even though I have the more modern ones. Nothing like it!!

Oh man do I ever agree with that! I wish I still had the Polaris XLT 600 with 3 pipes LOL. Man that thing sounded awesome.

Good advice in this thread :)

brokenbones4
01-26-2016, 08:06 AM
Running atf in your chain case is fine and cheap. I ran it in my 08 and 15 skidoo with no issues. Forget about that seafoam as mentioned. As for other maintenance one of the most important things people over look are the clutches. It can be as simple as blowing out the debris with a compressor and remove your belt, take scotchbrite and scuff straight inwards towards the crank. This will help reduce belt slippage and heat which reduces the life of your belt. Or at the end of the season remove clutches and check all parts and bushings.

benamen
01-26-2016, 08:50 AM
check the carb boots to ensure they are in good shape and not cracked through.

Bigwoodsman
01-26-2016, 09:00 AM
Pull your primary and secondary clutches apart clean and inspect for worn parts replace if necessary. Doing this will allow your machine to shift better and also perform better. A blown clutch on the trail isn't fun.

Also check and replace hard fuel lines. A cracked fuel line will ruin your day too.

BW

PS running a Polaris you'll need all the tips you can get!:thinking-006:

BW

elkhunter11
01-26-2016, 09:29 AM
You don't need to add Sea Foam to every tank of fuel. I would service the clutches if you don't know when they were last serviced. Have you checked the belt for wear?

brad8210
01-26-2016, 09:47 AM
I still run a 96 xlt still my favourite machine it's been the most reliable I've ridden I mostly ride trails not into the big mountain money pit riding lol I do everything mentioned so far change plugs at the start of every season there cheap and it sucks changing on the trail only thing to add pay attention to the tie rod ends and trailing arm bushings I pack a left and right tie rod end after breaking one more than once from loggers that leave large stumps hiding just under the snow also hay wire and duct tape in the tool kit for those moments when something breaks and just need to get it to the truck

reddeerguy2015
01-26-2016, 12:30 PM
You don't need to add Sea Foam to every tank of fuel. I would service the clutches if you don't know when they were last serviced. Have you checked the belt for wear?

I mainly run seafoam to extend the life of the fuel.

Generally whats required when servicing the clutches ??

Bigwoodsman
01-26-2016, 01:37 PM
I mainly run seafoam to extend the life of the fuel.

Generally whats required when servicing the clutches ??

When pulling your clutches apart you're looking for wear, check the sliders, rollers, or buttons on the secondary for wear. Clean up shives for better shifting. Look for broken or week springs. There a pretty simple set up and design to work on you'll see if there are problems.

BW

elkhunter11
01-26-2016, 01:52 PM
I mainly run seafoam to extend the life of the fuel.

Generally whats required when servicing the clutches ??


How long does a tank of fuel last you? As to clutches there are parts that wear that have to be replaced periodically, and parts that should be cleaned periodically.

Joholio
01-26-2016, 02:31 PM
Why all the negativity about Seafoam? I feel it prevents varnish and gumming in the fuel system and carbs/efi moreso than preserving the fuel life.

I dont recall Polaris making a triple 700 ever...? 97 was the first year of the 700twin. 98 was first year of the 600 twin(both good motors IMO) ...is it a Storm 750 triple?

I usually siphon most of the fuel out at the end of season and dump it in our old truck then add fresh premium (no ethanol) from a busy fuel station at the start of next season. Sounds like you're already doing as much or more than half my riding crew hahaha!

elkhunter11
01-26-2016, 02:45 PM
Why all the negativity about Seafoam? I feel it prevents varnish and gumming in the fuel system and carbs/efi moreso than preserving the fuel life.

I dont recall Polaris making a triple 700 ever...? 97 was the first year of the 700twin. 98 was first year of the 600 twin(both good motors IMO) ...is it a Storm 750 triple?

I usually siphon most of the fuel out at the end of season and dump it in our old truck then add fresh premium (no ethanol) from a busy fuel station at the start of next season. Sounds like you're already doing as much or more than half my riding crew hahaha!

They did make this 700 triple in 1998. In 1997, it was apparently called the Ultra.

http://www.motorsports-network.com/magazinearchives/polaris/smb98/98snoper.htm

lndy 700 XCR

In the late-1 950s, Polaris had a snowmobile named the Trai[Master. Now, in the late 1990s, Polaris has a snowmobile that is the trail master. The '98 Indy 700 XCR is the most-potent trail-ruling model on the market, offering the awesome power of a 700 triple with the finest ride and handling package available.

All this, and the Indy 700 XCR is available in a choice of colors to Snow Check buyers. The standard color is Deep Violet Metallic, but Snow Check buyers can choose to have their Aggressive-style 700 XCR hood in White Metallic.

The Indy 700 XCR gets its great handling from the XTRA-10 front suspension with Fox gas shocks, a torsion bar, 9.5 inches of travel, and the CRC steering package. A liquid-cooled hydraulic disc brake enhances the rider's control on the trail, as do the Polaris composite skis with carbides.

The 700 XCR's ride stems primarily from the XTRA-10 rear suspension, which, with two Fox@ gas shocks, offers 10.2 inches of travel for the rider on the Polaris Aggressive seat.

The seemingly endless power is supplied by the 679cc liquid-cooled casereed-inducted triple with digital CD ignition, three 38mm carburetors, and three tuned pipes. The electric fuel gauge and electric temperature gauge provide precise readings, and the new 280-watt alternator optimizes the output of the dual Lazer Light headlights.

Standard equipment includes handwarmers and a thumbwarmer, a speedometer (with tripmeter) and tachometer, 11.8-gallon gas tank, and hood screens to minimize snow ingestion. The additional PTO oil line improves crankshaft durability and the stronger P-85 drive clutch improves the 700 XCR's performance.

reddeerguy2015
01-26-2016, 03:27 PM
Yeah it may be a 98, not sure. But yeah its a 700 Indy XCR. It goes very fast in a straight line lol.

Joholio
01-26-2016, 04:37 PM
Yeah it may be a 98, not sure. But yeah its a 700 Indy XCR. It goes very fast in a straight line lol.


Ah yes... and the ole 680 ultra too... i forgot about that one. Previous model was 650 RXL I believe. I had a 98 600RMK twin bought brand new at Parkland in RD. First new thing I ever bought, boss cosigned haha. Been to Revy on er quite a few times... Been rebuilt and smashed up several times over the years... my buddy has it now and it still rips... I actually saw an ol wedge chassis mod up at Blue Lk/Sicamous a few weeks ago! [emoji482][emoji300]?