Advice on Baitcaster

[GoneFishingEDM]

Hello, I'm new to the site. so far I'm finding all sorts of helpful information.

This winter I picked up my first baitcaster, been doing lots of practice casting with it using monofilament. With the season coming up, I want to switch over to braid. I've picked up some 30lb Suffix 832.

What I'm interested in, is what knot do you guys recommend for attaching my braided line to my 10 lb monofilament backing? I've heard the double uni or blood knot is good.

I've seen some videos on a GT knot or FG knot, they seem very small so I would think they would have little impact on the spool as well.

Thanks in advance for any help.

[deschambault]

I use a double uni and the FG knot looks interesting although I haven't tried it. A blood knot will slip with braid.

[RavYak]

I know you shouldn't ever end up down in your backing but I can't help but wonder why you would use 10 lb backing for 30 lb main line. Throw on some 30 lb backing(if it is a big reel) or just load it all up with braid(I do this on all my rods except ice because they don't offer bigger spools of ice line...).

Double uni knot is the common knot for mono backing to braid.

[GoneFishingEDM]

Thanks for the feedback.

RavYak, I heard that using all braid can cause it to slip since braid is so smooth and the backing just helps prevent that. I use all braid on my spinner reel and haven't had any issues yet, but the baitcaster is a whole new experience for me.

[kcward]

Curious what you picked up for a baitcast rod and reel. I have been wanting to try one, but everyone I talk has tried it and got rid of them. Have you had success casting with it? Many backlashes I hear until you get used to it.

[RavYak]

Thanks for the feedback.

RavYak, I heard that using all braid can cause it to slip since braid is so smooth and the backing just helps prevent that. I use all braid on my spinner reel and haven't had any issues yet, but the baitcaster is a whole new experience for me.

The trick is to tie your knot then take some hockey tape or electrical tape or duct tape and tape the line to the spool. I like the hockey tape with the rougher surface.

This tapes the line in place and then also acts as a surface for the braid on top to grip onto better(especially if you use the hockey tape).

Or you can tie a few feet of mono backing on instead but I would use 30 lb instead of 10(no reason to go light), you can get a short bit of mono for backing from fishin hole etc that sell bulk line if that is the reason you were going to go light.

[RavYak]

Curious what you picked up for a baitcast rod and reel. I have been wanting to try one, but everyone I talk has tried it and got rid of them. Have you had success casting with it? Many backlashes I hear until you get used to it.

For fishing lures over 1/4 oz like rapalas, spoons etc you can't beat a bait caster. I love having better control over my casts and being able to thumb the spool on bigger fish or in times where you have to turn a fish quick to keep him out of a tree, weeds etc. I also like the way they feel in my hands better.

I would use baitcasters all the time but they do have their limitations. Light lures is the biggest one, spinning reels work much better.

The thing with baitcasters is that you need to buy a quality one. Too many people just buy a cheap one and then think they are horrible when they can't get them to work properly. If you buy a good one then you have much better braking systems with a lot more adjustability and once you get the technique down you will like it.

I prefer Shimano and I like the Curado's. The Citica's are good too though. Some of their bit cheaper ones are probably decent too but I would step up to one of these personally.

Abu Garcia has some good reels too, the Revo S is a good value reel and anything higher up is also good.

That isn't to say that the cheap ones are useless though. I started with a Pflueger Echelon and it did ok. I also owned a cheaper Quantum and it was crap though. The cheaper they are the worse they will be with lighter lures so if you are chucking heavier lures you can sometimes get away with the cheaper reels. The cheaper reels will wear out on you quicker though, my Echelon was only really good for 2 years unlike my Curado which has caught a lot more fish with no issues.

Learning to use a baitcaster does take a bit of learning though. You need to learn how to properly set your brakes and spool drag, there are videos on youtube that show you how to do that.

Another comment about baitcasters is that I think they work better with braided line. I also prefer smoother lines too now that I started using them, power pro slick is my go to on a baitcaster now.

[GoneFishingEDM]

The trick is to tie your knot then take some hockey tape or electrical tape or duct tape and tape the line to the spool. I like the hockey tape with the rougher surface.

This tapes the line in place and then also acts as a surface for the braid on top to grip onto better(especially if you use the hockey tape).

Or you can tie a few feet of mono backing on instead but I would use 30 lb instead of 10(no reason to go light), you can get a short bit of mono for backing from fishin hole etc that sell bulk line if that is the reason you were going to go light.

Thanks for the advice. I never thought of using hockey tape. I will give that a try I think.

Thanks again.

[GoneFishingEDM]

Curious what you picked up for a baitcast rod and reel. I have been wanting to try one, but everyone I talk has tried it and got rid of them. Have you had success casting with it? Many backlashes I hear until you get used to it.

I didn't go to crazy to start out with. I got a Quantum Accurist PT reel with a Quantum Catalyst Rod. I picked up some 1/4oz and 3/8 oz practice weights from the Fishing Hole. I've been practicing pretty regularly in a field. Day 1, I bird nested really bad on about the 4th try. After cutting out about 20 yards LOL. I cranked both my centrafugal break and my magnetic breaks all the way up, then slowly lowered the centrafugal break. I'm down to 2 out of 6 now, then I started lowering the magnetic break. I'm down to 5 our of 10. I haven't bird nested since. and I can outcast my spincaster with barely any effort.

I'll see how this year goes, I might upgrade next year if things go well. But so far I'm very impressed with the accuracy and distance. Practice seems to be the big thing. I recommend if you get one, pick up the practice weights and just cast and re-cast.

[kcward]

For fishing lures over 1/4 oz like rapalas, spoons etc you can't beat a bait caster. I love having better control over my casts and being able to thumb the spool on bigger fish or in times where you have to turn a fish quick to keep him out of a tree, weeds etc. I also like the way they feel in my hands better.

I would use baitcasters all the time but they do have their limitations. Light lures is the biggest one, spinning reels work much better.

The thing with baitcasters is that you need to buy a quality one. Too many people just buy a cheap one and then think they are horrible when they can't get them to work properly. If you buy a good one then you have much better braking systems with a lot more adjustability and once you get the technique down you will like it.

I prefer Shimano and I like the Curado's. The Citica's are good too though. Some of their bit cheaper ones are probably decent too but I would step up to one of these personally.

Abu Garcia has some good reels too, the Revo S is a good value reel and anything higher up is also good.

That isn't to say that the cheap ones are useless though. I started with a Pflueger Echelon and it did ok. I also owned a cheaper Quantum and it was crap though. The cheaper they are the worse they will be with lighter lures so if you are chucking heavier lures you can sometimes get away with the cheaper reels. The cheaper reels will wear out on you quicker though, my Echelon was only really good for 2 years unlike my Curado which has caught a lot more fish with no issues.

Learning to use a baitcaster does take a bit of learning though. You need to learn how to properly set your brakes and spool drag, there are videos on youtube that show you how to do that.

Another comment about baitcasters is that I think they work better with braided line. I also prefer smoother lines too now that I started using them, power pro slick is my go to on a baitcaster now.


Thanks Rav...Next time I am in Edmonton I will have to come and have a look at them. I have a quantum smoke spinning that I really like...for lighter stuff even better than my shimano stradic ci4. It is partly the size too...I have the 15 in the smoke, so nice and lite and a good balance with the smoke rod. Not sure what the baitcaster would be like in the smoke though.
Probably stick to Shimano like you suggest.

[kcward]

I didn't go to crazy to start out with. I got a Quantum Accurist PT reel with a Quantum Catalyst Rod. I picked up some 1/4oz and 3/8 oz practice weights from the Fishing Hole. I've been practicing pretty regularly in a field. Day 1, I bird nested really bad on about the 4th try. After cutting out about 20 yards LOL. I cranked both my centrafugal break and my magnetic breaks all the way up, then slowly lowered the centrafugal break. I'm down to 2 out of 6 now, then I started lowering the magnetic break. I'm down to 5 our of 10. I haven't bird nested since. and I can outcast my spincaster with barely any effort.

I'll see how this year goes, I might upgrade next year if things go well. But so far I'm very impressed with the accuracy and distance. Practice seems to be the big thing. I recommend if you get one, pick up the practice weights and just cast and re-cast.

That sounds like a pretty decent set-up and experience. Thanks for the tip on the practice weights...Have to see what I can find for good deals. Good luck this summer!

[RavYak]

Thanks Rav...Next time I am in Edmonton I will have to come and have a look at them. I have a quantum smoke spinning that I really like...for lighter stuff even better than my shimano stradic ci4. It is partly the size too...I have the 15 in the smoke, so nice and lite and a good balance with the smoke rod. Not sure what the baitcaster would be like in the smoke though.
Probably stick to Shimano like you suggest.

I have always avoided Quantums, heard of too many people having problems with them but that goes for both baitcasting and spinning.

Some of them are probably fine, I have never really had any issues with any of my Shimano gear so it has always been my favourite. Lots of guys like the Abus too, I have a Abu Revo Toro and it is nice although barely broken in yet.

My newest toy is a Shimano Metanium, still waiting for it to arrive though.

[Vigsy]

your accurist will be a good reel. that flippin switch is a handy tool to if you bottom bounce or lindy rig for walleye. the smoke baitcaster is also a gorgeous reel. im waiting on couple smoke hds and a couple smoke speed freaks. quantum has been known to have some issues but the newer stuff and higher end stuff is unreal.

[GoneFishingEDM]

The trick is to tie your knot then take some hockey tape or electrical tape or duct tape and tape the line to the spool. I like the hockey tape with the rougher surface.

This tapes the line in place and then also acts as a surface for the braid on top to grip onto better(especially if you use the hockey tape).

Or you can tie a few feet of mono backing on instead but I would use 30 lb instead of 10(no reason to go light), you can get a short bit of mono for backing from fishin hole etc that sell bulk line if that is the reason you were going to go light.

Thanks for the advice RavYak, I picked up 30lb Suffix 832 last night and used the tape trick. Spooled up beautifully. Took it out for a few practices casts, the braided line flows so much nicer than the mono.

Thanks for the Tip

[GoneFishingEDM]

your accurist will be a good reel. that flippin switch is a handy tool to if you bottom bounce or lindy rig for walleye. the smoke baitcaster is also a gorgeous reel. im waiting on couple smoke hds and a couple smoke speed freaks. quantum has been known to have some issues but the newer stuff and higher end stuff is unreal.

I thought the Accurist would be a good starting reel. Not the bottom line and definatley not the top end. I didn't want to spend to much to start incase I really couldn't get the hang of it.

I also love the dual break system. My buddy got his first baitcaster same time I did, he went with an Abu reel. It only has the magnetic break. I was able to get mine dialed in way faster than him. The dual break just seems to give you that little bit extra control.

If I do well this year, I'm sure I will upgrade the reel next year.

[catnthehat]

Gotta love baitcasters!!:sHa_shakeshout:
the top row here have all been used and some get used frequently.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v104/catnthehat/reels/reels1_zps94b2c890.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/catnthehat/media/reels/reels1_zps94b2c890.jpg.html)
My main reel however is a late 50's vintage Abu 5000 with the freewheeling spool, these tend to get set up differently than a traditional "knuckle duster" direct drive!:sHa_sarcasticlol:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v104/catnthehat/fish%20pics/fall%20walleye_zpsj4bn9t0k.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/catnthehat/media/fish%20pics/fall%20walleye_zpsj4bn9t0k.jpg.html)
I also wrap my arbors, so the slippery line does not spin, some of my Pfluegars have a cork spacer arbor you can out on for light mono, they work pretty danged well.:)
Cat

[kcward]

your accurist will be a good reel. that flippin switch is a handy tool to if you bottom bounce or lindy rig for walleye. the smoke baitcaster is also a gorgeous reel. im waiting on couple smoke hds and a couple smoke speed freaks. quantum has been known to have some issues but the newer stuff and higher end stuff is unreal.

Good to hear that you have had good experience with the smoke as well. I will have to invest I guess...wife says thanks :)

Good luck with your new tools!

[Vigsy]

Gotta love baitcasters!!:sHa_shakeshout:
the top row here have all been used and some get used frequently.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v104/catnthehat/reels/reels1_zps94b2c890.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/catnthehat/media/reels/reels1_zps94b2c890.jpg.html)
My main reel however is a late 50's vintage Abu 5000 with the freewheeling spool, these tend to get set up differently than a traditional "knuckle duster" direct drive!:sHa_sarcasticlol:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v104/catnthehat/fish%20pics/fall%20walleye_zpsj4bn9t0k.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/catnthehat/media/fish%20pics/fall%20walleye_zpsj4bn9t0k.jpg.html)
I also wrap my arbors, so the slippery line does not spin, some of my Pfluegars have a cork spacer arbor you can out on for light mono, they work pretty danged well.:)
Cat

very neat reels there cat. My sisters boyfriend just brought me over an older abu to look up, and sell or use. From what I can find I think its a 1973 Ambassadeur 7000. Its never been used and is still in box with pouch, reel oil etc. Seems pretty sweet not sure if I have a use for it but might have to just cause its so cool.

http://i1076.photobucket.com/albums/w442/Vigsy/79BFB51D-046C-4183-9992-EE59A29F7346_zps98kjalx3.jpg

http://i1076.photobucket.com/albums/w442/Vigsy/3DEA1B59-F0A8-40E9-90BB-30F007EB775B_zpsfxbjnvnc.jpg

[GoneFishingEDM]

So again I'm new to this whole baitcaster thing. What is the difference between the big round baitcaster, and the low profile ones. Are there different uses for them, or is it just a different style? I always thought the big round style was for trolling not really for casting.

[catnthehat]

So again I'm new to this whole baitcaster thing. What is the difference between the big round baitcaster, and the low profile ones. Are there different uses for them, or is it just a different style? I always thought the big round style was for trolling not really for casting.

The biggest difference I can see would be line capacity , but Ravyak may be better at explaining it
Cat

[catnthehat]

very neat reels there cat. My sisters boyfriend just brought me over an older abu to look up, and sell or use. From what I can find I think its a 1973 Ambassadeur 7000. Its never been used and is still in box with pouch, reel oil etc. Seems pretty sweet not sure if I have a use for it but might have to just cause its so cool.

http://i1076.photobucket.com/albums/w442/Vigsy/79BFB51D-046C-4183-9992-EE59A29F7346_zps98kjalx3.jpg

http://i1076.photobucket.com/albums/w442/Vigsy/3DEA1B59-F0A8-40E9-90BB-30F007EB775B_zpsfxbjnvnc.jpg

That is something for sure!!
Set it up and use it, then display it is what I do when I get one like that!:)
Cat

[Albertacoyotecaller]

I love the Abu bait casters. I know there are better ones out there but that's what I grew up on and like to use.

[RavYak]

The biggest difference I can see would be line capacity , but Ravyak may be better at explaining it
Cat

Line capacity and drag used to be the big difference. Back in the day before braid was common people needed the larger spools in order to fit enough higher test mono line. It was also easier to fit larger drags and beefier parts to make those larger reeld being used for big fish more dependable.

In recent years with braid and technological advances it has become less important to have that size. Manufacturers have now come out with low profile style reels with larger capacity and strong drag on par with the round style reels. Abus revo toro is an example as is shimanos new tranx 300 and 400 series(they also have a 500 series as an even bigger reel).

There are guys that now use these reels like the revo toro to fish for musky, big lake trout, salmon, sturgeon and even bottom fish including halibut. My revo toro as an example fits almost 300 yards of 50 lb power pro with over 20 lbs of drag making it capable of catching a wide range of fish(caught salmon, ling cod, sturgeon and pike on it so far).

The big advantage now to the round style is that they are easier and cheaper to produce. Some guys also prefer the way they feel(usually because they grew up using them whereas I prefer a low profile style). If you need a lot of heavy line and prefer mono you still may need to use a round style reel too but we are talking reels for white sturgeon, big halibut, sailfish, marlin, sharks etc.

One other difference too is that the round style reels are usually(but not always) a lower gear ratio/retrieve which some people prefer for certain situations.

[GoneFishingEDM]

Line capacity and drag used to be the big difference. Back in the day before braid was common people needed the larger spools in order to fit enough higher test mono line. It was also easier to fit larger drags and beefier parts to make those larger reeld being used for big fish more dependable.

In recent years with braid and technological advances it has become less important to have that size. Manufacturers have now come out with low profile style reels with larger capacity and strong drag on par with the round style reels. Abus revo toro is an example as is shimanos new tranx 300 and 400 series(they also have a 500 series as an even bigger reel).

There are guys that now use these reels like the revo toro to fish for musky, big lake trout, salmon, sturgeon and even bottom fish including halibut. My revo toro as an example fits almost 300 yards of 50 lb power pro with over 20 lbs of drag making it capable of catching a wide range of fish(caught salmon, ling cod, sturgeon and pike on it so far).

The big advantage now to the round style is that they are easier and cheaper to produce. Some guys also prefer the way they feel(usually because they grew up using them whereas I prefer a low profile style). If you need a lot of heavy line and prefer mono you still may need to use a round style reel too but we are talking reels for white sturgeon, big halibut, sailfish, marlin, sharks etc.

One other difference too is that the round style reels are usually(but not always) a lower gear ratio/retrieve which some people prefer for certain situations.

Thanks for the info RavYak, that explains a lot. I think my next reel with have better capacity. This one is 120 yrds at 12# mono, and I think it was 130yrds at 30# braided. 7.0:1 and 16lb drag.

[RavYak]

Thanks for the info RavYak, that explains a lot. I think my next reel with have better capacity. This one is 120 yrds at 12# mono, and I think it was 130yrds at 30# braided. 7.0:1 and 16lb drag.

That is a good size and will handle just about anything here in AB.

The only reason to get something bigger would be for sturgeon, a dedicated laker downrigging reel(which the accurist will work fine for occasionally) or a big pike lure reel(in which case you are buying for the extra cranking power not capacity).

[Bushleague]

I know you shouldn't ever end up down in your backing but I can't help but wonder why you would use 10 lb backing for 30 lb main line. Throw on some 30 lb backing(if it is a big reel) or just load it all up with braid(I do this on all my rods except ice because they don't offer bigger spools of ice line...).

Double uni knot is the common knot for mono backing to braid.

Or just put a wrap of hockey tape around the spool.

[RavYak]

Or just put a wrap of hockey tape around the spool.

Yeah that will help. If you do the tape on top it is even better(holds the line down and then gives the same backing).

[kcward]

I have always avoided Quantums, heard of too many people having problems with them but that goes for both baitcasting and spinning.

Some of them are probably fine, I have never really had any issues with any of my Shimano gear so it has always been my favourite. Lots of guys like the Abus too, I have a Abu Revo Toro and it is nice although barely broken in yet.

My newest toy is a Shimano Metanium, still waiting for it to arrive though.

That looks like a sweet reel...let us know how it is.

[calgarygringo]

I have been using a Quantum Tour PT with Superslick line for several years now and has been a great reel. I seldom use my spin cast unless it is for really small light lure casting. I use it in winter on my ice rod as well and has caught whites, walleyes, pike perch and a few trout as well. Once you get setup and then get the idea of how to cast the rest is a piece of cake.

That looks like a sweet reel...let us know how it is.

[dodger]

a few years back I would not hesitate to explain why they were junk and a waste of time.:fighting0074:

Now - well let's say I have not touched my spin reel for 3 years.

Dodger.

[bobalong]

So again I'm new to this whole baitcaster thing. What is the difference between the big round baitcaster, and the low profile ones. Are there different uses for them, or is it just a different style? I always thought the big round style was for trolling not really for casting.

I find the low profile much easier to cast, as most have a thumb bar in the middle of the reel, making it easier to cast. If you are trolling a lot with it the flipping switch is also a nice feature available on quite a few of the baitcast. My main baitcast reel for trolling is a Shimano Castaic which has the "flipping" feature right on the thumb bar.
When first starting to cast, cast your lure up and away, this pulls the line of the reel and then when the momentum of the lure stops pulling line it just falls into the water, virtually eliminates any bird nests.
Keep your drum brake a bit on the tight side to start, it reduces your casting distance but cuts way down on birds nest until you get the feel of it, then slowly loosen the drum brake off a bit more for more distance. When setting your drum brake, tie on you lure and push the thumb bar. The lure should drop slowly, adjust the drum brake tighter or looser until this happens, this is usually a good starting drum brake drag.
Drum brake sets reel for when thumb bar is dressed (casting), "star" or actual reel drag is for fighting fish when thumb bar is not engaged (retrieving).

[catnthehat]

Further to what bobalong suggested with setting the reel up, the lure should stop when it hits the ground with the rod held horizontally after you hit the free wheel button.:)
Cat

[the11fisherman]

Hello, I'm new to the site. so far I'm finding all sorts of helpful information.

This winter I picked up my first baitcaster, been doing lots of practice casting with it using monofilament. With the season coming up, I want to switch over to braid. I've picked up some 30lb Suffix 832.

What I'm interested in, is what knot do you guys recommend for attaching my braided line to my 10 lb monofilament backing? I've heard the double uni or blood knot is good.

I've seen some videos on a GT knot or FG knot, they seem very small so I would think they would have little impact on the spool as well.

Thanks in advance for any help.

Just curious.........what are you going for with 30 lb test? That seems like overkill for any of the fish you are going for in Alberta. True, pike, lake trout, and sturgeon all call get well over 30 pounds, but 30 lb test seems like overkill. I had a buddy that used to fish with 30 lb test and he would just bring in the fish as if he was pulling in a box, there was no fight nor sport. He literally turned off his drag and reeled in the fish. Not sporting whatsoever. Also, if you get a snag with that stuff, you are gonna have a heck of a time snapping it, especially if it is slightly stretchy like lots of lines are. My recommendation is that if you are going for pike, use 15-pound test. I have brought in lots of 25+ pound pike on this test. I have never been bitten off using this test for pike when I use a short wire leader to attach the hook. If I am going for Laketrout, I always use 12-pound test. I have easily brought in 20+ pound fish on this. If I am going for Sturgeon, I use 20-pound test and I have never been broken off. My biggest sturgeon to date was 40 pounds........nothing compared to Wayne though......he is the boss of sturgeon on this site. Now......if you are going for anything else in this province, there is no need to use anything over 12-pound test. Walleye rarely need more than 8-pound test. Trout (other than lakers) rarely need more than 5-pound test.

I know there are some trolls on here that will claim that these tests are too low for the species of fish I have mentioned. No, actually they are not. ON all reels there is a little nifty tool called a drag. When used properly, if it amazing what you can do. Do not set it at a specific spot for the day, play with it as you bring in the fish.

There are other trolls that are going to say "It probably takes you forever to bring in the fish and they are likely half dead when you FINALLY get them in. Nope...........it doesn't take me long and the fish always give to the tail splash in the face with their tail as I send them back to their home.

I was talking to a fish biologist (I don't normally quote biologists), but he told me that as far as he has seen, it harms the fish less to be brought in on their own accord than to be forced in very quickly. AKA use your DRAG.

Think of it this way. You are hooked in the cheek. Someone is trying to pull you in. Would it hurt you more if they cranked the reel as hard as they could to drag you in? (Well......being human your cheek would just tear if you were getting dragged in by lots of fishermen I have seen.) Or would it hurt you less if they allowed you to fight a bit against the line and allow you to come in when you were ready? I'm pretty sure the last one would hurt a heck of a lot less.

It was a weird idea from the biologist, but it makes sense to me.

This was a long rant just wondering why one earth you would use a line that big unless you were headed to the ocean to fish for something big, but not huge?

Oh, funny story....then I promise to shut up... So I was fishing once at Newell and there was this guy fishing near me and he had a typical sized Quantum rod with 50 pound test on it. I commented to him that it was over kill. He argued back saying that it allowed him to put is drag to the hardest level so he could get fish in quickly. Soon he hooked into a fish that I would have thought was around the 20+ range. He fought it for about a 10 seconds and all of a sudden all his guides busted and his line snapped on one of the busted guides. Man was he mad. A drive all the way from Calgary and he only brought one rod. He asked if he could use my spair. I bet you can guess my reply.....

[catnthehat]

I think it is the other end of thee spectrum where guys use ultralight gear for really big fish- balance iis the key.
I once knew a bass tournament guy who told me he cranked his drag right down and did not play the fish because the longer it is played the more likelihood of killing it either after release or in the live well.
Cat

[ROA]

Use the heavier line to learn with on the bait caster. It's way easier to untangle a birds nest with 30lbs braid than with 10. In fact a decent rats nest with 10 lb braid can be impossible to untangle as it cuts into itself so bad.

That brings me to another point. Bring an extra rod or at least a knife and spare spool of line when learning with a bait caster. Rats nest will ruin your day.

[the11fisherman]

I think it is the other end of thee spectrum where guys use ultralight gear for really big fish- balance iis the key.
I once knew a bass tournament guy who told me he cranked his drag right down and did not play the fish because the longer it is played the more likelihood of killing it either after release or in the live well.
Cat

It all depends on who you talk to I guess. The biologist told me the contrary. I personally have never had trouble with fish dying on me. I will agree with you when you say that using ultra light gear is not good. I once fished with a guy that used 5 pound for pike. He had to play the fish for a good 10 minutes before he managed to get it in. It looked half dead by the time he got it in. That is not right. But if you can't get a 20+ pound pike in on 12 pound test in a short time, it is time to go learn how to properly use your drag again.

[the11fisherman]

Use the heavier line to learn with on the bait caster. It's way easier to untangle a birds nest with 30lbs braid than with 10. In fact a decent rats nest with 10 lb braid can be impossible to untangle as it cuts into itself so bad.

That brings me to another point. Bring an extra rod or at least a knife and spare spool of line when learning with a bait caster. Rats nest will ruin your day.

Fair enough. It would be good to use while learning, but once proficient, it is definitely beneficial to use lighter line (but not too light)

[GoneFishingEDM]

I've been looking into this a lot as this is my first baitcaster. From what I've read, with baitcaster using a lighter braid can causes the braid to cut into itself on the reel. Since the braided line generally has a smaller diameter than mono, and is much smoother. Also if the line cuts back onto itself, then the line will not cast properly. Again this is all based on information I have read. I am by no means an expert on this.

[calgarygringo]

That happens if the line is not wound with any tenson. Is loose and when weight or resistance is on it cuts in to the loose wound line. Learn how to spool properly and will not be an issue. User problem not reels fault.


I've been looking into this a lot as this is my first baitcaster. From what I've read, with baitcaster using a lighter braid can causes the braid to cut into itself on the reel. Since the braided line generally has a smaller diameter than mono, and is much smoother. Also if the line cuts back onto itself, then the line will not cast properly. Again this is all based on information I have read. I am by no means an expert on this.

[RavYak]

Just curious.........what are you going for with 30 lb test? That seems like overkill for any of the fish you are going for in Alberta. True, pike, lake trout, and sturgeon all call get well over 30 pounds, but 30 lb test seems like overkill. I had a buddy that used to fish with 30 lb test and he would just bring in the fish as if he was pulling in a box, there was no fight nor sport. He literally turned off his drag and reeled in the fish. Not sporting whatsoever. Also, if you get a snag with that stuff, you are gonna have a heck of a time snapping it, especially if it is slightly stretchy like lots of lines are. My recommendation is that if you are going for pike, use 15-pound test. I have brought in lots of 25+ pound pike on this test. I have never been bitten off using this test for pike when I use a short wire leader to attach the hook. If I am going for Laketrout, I always use 12-pound test. I have easily brought in 20+ pound fish on this. If I am going for Sturgeon, I use 20-pound test and I have never been broken off. My biggest sturgeon to date was 40 pounds........nothing compared to Wayne though......he is the boss of sturgeon on this site. Now......if you are going for anything else in this province, there is no need to use anything over 12-pound test. Walleye rarely need more than 8-pound test. Trout (other than lakers) rarely need more than 5-pound test.

I know there are some trolls on here that will claim that these tests are too low for the species of fish I have mentioned. No, actually they are not. ON all reels there is a little nifty tool called a drag. When used properly, if it amazing what you can do. Do not set it at a specific spot for the day, play with it as you bring in the fish.

There are other trolls that are going to say "It probably takes you forever to bring in the fish and they are likely half dead when you FINALLY get them in. Nope...........it doesn't take me long and the fish always give to the tail splash in the face with their tail as I send them back to their home.

I was talking to a fish biologist (I don't normally quote biologists), but he told me that as far as he has seen, it harms the fish less to be brought in on their own accord than to be forced in very quickly. AKA use your DRAG.

Think of it this way. You are hooked in the cheek. Someone is trying to pull you in. Would it hurt you more if they cranked the reel as hard as they could to drag you in? (Well......being human your cheek would just tear if you were getting dragged in by lots of fishermen I have seen.) Or would it hurt you less if they allowed you to fight a bit against the line and allow you to come in when you were ready? I'm pretty sure the last one would hurt a heck of a lot less.

It was a weird idea from the biologist, but it makes sense to me.

This was a long rant just wondering why one earth you would use a line that big unless you were headed to the ocean to fish for something big, but not huge?

Oh, funny story....then I promise to shut up... So I was fishing once at Newell and there was this guy fishing near me and he had a typical sized Quantum rod with 50 pound test on it. I commented to him that it was over kill. He argued back saying that it allowed him to put is drag to the hardest level so he could get fish in quickly. Soon he hooked into a fish that I would have thought was around the 20+ range. He fought it for about a 10 seconds and all of a sudden all his guides busted and his line snapped on one of the busted guides. Man was he mad. A drive all the way from Calgary and he only brought one rod. He asked if he could use my spair. I bet you can guess my reply.....

First of all braid doesn't stretch and breaking 30 lb braid is not hard, loop the line around the reel or a branch or something to make it solid then pull straight back and it will break fairly easy. I have broke 65 lb braid from my kayak in 150 feet of water, that was a little interesting but still doable.

It is easy to ask why should you use heavy line. But a better question is why not... 30 lb braid is the same size as 8 lb mono and casts better because of its lack of memory. You don't break off when you snag bottom(nice being able to straighten a hook and just replace treble instead of having to replace whole lure). You have much better abrasion resistance(which is one of the weaknesses of braid). Heavier braid also sits better on a baitcaster reel(doesn't cut into itself).

Have you ever watched pro bass fisherman fish for largemouth in heavy cover? They use 50 lb braid for 2-5 lb average fish... Guess you think they don't know what they are doing either? They only make their living fishing in the most competitive situation...

I used 30 lb braid for my pike and laker reels and recommend it to everyone targeting these fish specifically. 10 lb braid for trout, 15-20 lb for walleye, 50 lb for sturgeon. Which if you actually use 20 lb line to target sturgeon you should give your head a shake... The government use to have a website for sturgeon handling practices and using heavy line was one of them.

Regarding playing a fish, if you try to bring in a fish too quick you 9 times out of 10 rip the lure out of them. Most anglers quickly learn they have to play a fish and having your drag set properly to do so should not be dependent on line size. It should be solely dependent on the fish species and size you are targeting. The extra strength line for braid is just commonly used by many anglers including myself because it literally has no significant downsides while having numerous upsides. The only time stronger braid is a detriment is when you are trying to cast very light lures, which you can't do effectively with a baitcaster anyways... I would never go below 15 lb braid on a baitcaster reel.

Another thing to think about is that you should never set your drag more then 1/3 of your line strength. If you are only using 12 lb line that means you should have drag set at 4 lbs or less which is about right for small to average pike but for big ones you want a bit more especially if fishing near weeds, sunken trees etc.

[RavYak]

That happens if the line is not wound with any tenson. Is loose and when weight or resistance is on it cuts in to the loose wound line. Learn how to spool properly and will not be an issue. User problem not reels fault.

Light line will cut into itself on a baitcaster reel. It is the reason that the bass professionals use such heavy line as it sits nicer on a reel and they often are using a bit lighter lures and just doing short flip casts which don't come off nice when the light line is dug into reel.

Some guys that use lighter lines will even pull off as much line as they use then put a piece of electrical tape and rewind line on just to minimize how far the line will cut in.

As I said in previous post I would never go under 15 lb braid on a baitcaster. 20 to 30 is better too.

Here is a bass pro's comments on braid. Easy to find many examples of this.

I use Spiderwire braid for about 50 percent of my bass fishing and carry it in three line sizes — 10-, 50- and 65-pound test. I use the 10-pound Spiderwire on spinning tackle and the heavier sizes on casting gear.

https://www.bassmaster.com/tips/ask-experts-what-line-should-i-use

Another article to help pick line size. 30 lb braid is the minimum they recommend that I saw(they prefer to use fluoro for the finesse lures).

http://www.bassfishin.com/blog/fishing-line-guide/

[huntsfurfish]

Use what ever line you like, but be considerate to the fish. Over playing fish on lite line causes lactic acid build up in fish which can be fatal.

The vigorous physical exertion causes lactic acid wastes to build up in the fish's muscles. This in turn leads to blood acidification which can disrupt the metabolism of the fish. If a fish isn't able to get its blood chemistry balanced back to prestress levels, it may die, perhaps as long as 72 hours after the catch.

Match line to fish and method of fishing. Better using to heavy than to lite of lines.

[the11fisherman]

Have you ever watched pro bass fisherman fish for largemouth in heavy cover? They use 50 lb braid for 2-5 lb average fish... Guess you think they don't know what they are doing either? They only make their living fishing in the most competitive situation...


Not sure which fools you are watching, but when I have been watching T.V. specials featuring Clay Dyer, Rick Clunn, and Mark Davis, they use 6-7 foot rods with medium action and medium to light action tips 10-20 pound test on spinning reels or 10-25 pound test on baitcasting reels.

[RavYak]

Not sure which fools you are watching, but when I have been watching T.V. specials featuring Clay Dyer, Rick Clunn, and Mark Davis, they use 6-7 foot rods with medium action and medium to light action tips 10-20 pound test on spinning reels or 10-25 pound test on baitcasting reels.

Not in heavy cover they don't... Kevin VanDam, Mike Iaconelli, Greg Hackney, the list goes on...

http://www.captainkevblogs.com/newblogsiteblogs/blogsiteblogs/sinklineblog.pdf

https://www.bassmaster.com/node/40342

http://bassblaster.rocks/greg-hackneys-braid-flipping-system#sthash.XRLTCx6i.dpbs

You are right they use 10-20 on spinning reels for regular presentations(and many actually prefer fluorocarbon main line). On baitcasters for braid most use 20+ lb with 30 and 40+ also being very common especially for heavy cover.

I have already gone over this topic lots though. If targeting pike 30 lb braid is a great selection, it is small diameter, casts a mile, avoids breakoffs and abrasion much better and literally has no downsides. The OP made an excellent choice in picking his line for the situation.

[GoneFishingEDM]

It does cast a mile. I'm very impressed. Just changing to the 30lb Braid my casts are considerably farther than on the mono.

And I agree with the strength completely. I run 10lb Braid on me and my wife's spinners. She's had some serious snags, and I've never lot a hook to line breaks. Bent some of the hooks, but that's an easy fix as opposed to replacing the lures.

I'm not looking to rip the fish out of the water. I just went with the 30lb based on everything I've read and some great advice from people on this site.