For kicker users

[Okotokian]

I have a simple system on my boat where my main engine and kicker are linked together for steering. I've always raised my main engine out of the water so as to decrease drag when using the kicker, though it puts the linkage between the two at an odd, slightly less efficient angle. Do you raise your main engine or leave it down when using the kicker? I'm thinking that while there would be a bit of drag, there would be better steering with both the small and big engine in the water steering the same way.... thoughts?

[Tannerdog]

I always have the kicker out of the water when main engine is down and always have the main engine down when running the kicker. Does add drag but have way better steering control with it acting as a rudder. Especially when the wind picks up.

[cdkeim]

Main motor down as well.:)

[dugh]

I like to steer the kicker direct for following structure and can't steer sharply enough with the big motor. I can steer the 17 foot boat quite sharply except in high winds.

[Gillfisher]

I grew up on the West Coast salmon fishing out of the Sooke area we always had a similar set up. When running out to the fishing area on the big motor the kicker was out of the water. When trolling the big motor is left in the water and a steering arm is then attached to the two motors. The big motor does help in controlling the boat.

[Duramaximos]

I always have the kicker out of the water when main engine is down and always have the main engine down when running the kicker. Does add drag but have way better steering control with it acting as a rudder. Especially when the wind picks up.
X2

[deschambault]

X3

[KegRiver]

I have a simple system on my boat where my main engine and kicker are linked together for steering. I've always raised my main engine out of the water so as to decrease drag when using the kicker, though it puts the linkage between the two at an odd, slightly less efficient angle. Do you raise your main engine or leave it down when using the kicker? I'm thinking that while there would be a bit of drag, there would be better steering with both the small and big engine in the water steering the same way.... thoughts?

I don't own a kicker but I do borrow my brothers electric trolling motor from time to time.

I will raise the main motor if I want more speed or leave it down if I want to go a bit slower.

I haven't linked the motors yet but will when I have my own motor. I plan to use push pull cables to control both the steering and speed settings.

The steering would be hooked to the existing steering cable and the speed control would be hooked to a separate dash speed control. Like an equipment throttle.


Another setup I'm working on is a way to control a trolling motor on a fishing pontoon without having to reach back.

[Okotokian]

Thanks all. I'd love to be able to control kicker speed from front console, but I think setting that up is beyond me. If you do get is set up Keg, let me know how you did it.

As for main motor up or down, I'll have to leave it down and give it a try! Would simplify (and perhaps improve) the steering issue. I'm running a 15 hp kicker so a little extra drag won't be a problem. It's throttled almost right down to zero to get a decent trolling speed (I'm thinking aprox 3 km/hr)

[dugh]

There are kickers with a remote control, I'm not sure how much, it was a little key fob like a command start. I was fishing in a boat with one once and it wasn't ideal, sometimes sticking while turned all the way one way or another. We'd have 3 lines out and all of a sudden make sharp turns. Knowing the owner as well as I do, I suspect it might have something to do with the operator, all thumbs.

[Okotokian]

There are kickers with a remote control, I'm not sure how much, it was a little key fob like a command start. I was fishing in a boat with one once and it wasn't ideal, sometimes sticking while turned all the way one way or another. We'd have 3 lines out and all of a sudden make sharp turns. Knowing the owner as well as I do, I suspect it might have something to do with the operator, all thumbs.

Hmmm I have an electric trolling motor with remote control but I've never seen a gas kicker with a remote. Learn something every day I guess. Thanks.

[SNAPFisher]

Yeah, I don't have a kicker either but was thinking about it. This thread has been very helpful!

[dugh]

A friend had one on his jet Harbourcrafts kicker from Gibbons Motor Toys. It was brand new when we were out, I'm not sure if experience was the issue or just butter fingers. He kept running into things. You pass a test, they give you a license, but the one question they don't ask is "can you operate a boat?". I might just be sensitive because I caught the smallest fish by a mile.

[EZM]

A friend had one on his jet Harbourcrafts kicker from Gibbons Motor Toys. It was brand new when we were out, I'm not sure if experience was the issue or just butter fingers. He kept running into things. You pass a test, they give you a license, but the one question they don't ask is "can you operate a boat?". I might just be sensitive because I caught the smallest fish by a mile.

Huh? The boater's exam does not include a "road test" (or a water test I guess).

All it means is you can pass the written exam.

The other thing to consider is, and kind of confusing to me, why would you be operating your kicker near anything? Use the main engine to manuver around docks, other boats, etc... Kickers, particularly console steer remotes, are not meant to have precise control. They generally steer you as you troll.

[EZM]

Oki,

I agree with everyone else says - keep the main down - much easier to control direction and speed. Easier to steer to as you are not fighting the big motor.

[Ken07AOVette]

I have a powrtrans remote on my kicker. Push button left and right on the dash plus remote on a lanyard. I would never go without again. Cost about a grand. Worth every penny. I leave my leg down (inboard lol)

[SamSteele]

Main down to act as a rudder. Helps in windy conditions for sure.

If you want to remotely control Kicker speed with more finesse than a remote setup gives you, get one of these.

http://www.trollmasters.com/




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[EZM]

Main down to act as a rudder. Helps in windy conditions for sure.

If you want to remotely control Kicker speed with more finesse than a remote setup gives you, get one of these.

http://www.trollmasters.com/




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I think the boat needs to have power steering or electrical assist hydraulic steering doesn't it? Just curious.

[SamSteele]

The troll master pro 3 has remote steering with a Panther system. The Pro and Pro 2 are just throttle. They work well if you use the electric to steer and Kicker for thrust. Just a solenoid that pulls a wire that goes on your throttle body. You can still drive normally too.


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[Mackinaw]

I use a kicker set at 1/4 throttle locked in straight forward do all my steering and speed contr with front mount minn kota with i pilot hand held remote. More boat control then you get with kicker and or main steering.

Mack

[dugh]

EZ, we fish walleye a lot, trolling and follow structure not marinas and docks and such.

[Okotokian]

The troll master pro 3 has remote steering with a Panther system. The Pro and Pro 2 are just throttle. They work well if you use the electric to steer and Kicker for thrust. Just a solenoid that pulls a wire that goes on your throttle body. You can still drive normally too.


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Just throttle control is what I would want. I have a very simple (and removable) mechanical link between my main engine and kicker so I can steer either from my console. But if I want to adjust speed I have to get up and go to the kicker and adjust the twist control on the tiller arm. Pain in the A. If I could adjust speed from the console I'd be set.

[huntsfurfish]

If you are running HDS gen2 or Gen2 touch and newer you could add this.

http://www.cabelas.ca/product/74682/lowrance-outboard-pilot-hydraulic-kit

Also available for cable steer but way more money.

[EZM]

EZ, we fish walleye a lot, trolling and follow structure not marinas and docks and such.

Using a console steer kicker? I guess what I was saying is, for every boat I've had with a console steer kicker, the precise control and maneuverability sucks compared to a kicker with a good old fashion kicker handle.

I know lots of guys who use kicker steering on the stick to back troll and maneuver with precision and are able to really stay on top of structure and steer along it with ease - I'd suggest it's apples to oranges different.

In my case I have a Terrova Electric (bow mount I-pilot link and wireless remote) that I use for walleye fishing and it is far better for low speed, precision maneuverability and, of course, for a quiet approach in shallower waters.

As Mack mentioned - I also sometimes use the Terrova to steer and just have the gas engine kicked into gear and pointed straight if the chop or wind is an issue. That works pretty slick too.

[Jamie Black R/T]

I also sometimes use the Terrova to steer and just have the gas engine kicked into gear and pointed straight if the chop or wind is an issue. That works pretty slick too.

Run my 9.9 pro kicker like this all the time....rough water or pulling cranks fast

its slick and functions properly with the follow to contour maps i spent the time making.

[Habfan]

I use a kicker set at 1/4 throttle locked in straight forward do all my steering and speed contr with front mount minn kota with i pilot hand held remote. More boat control then you get with kicker and or main steering.

Mack

This is how I do it as well. Use the electric for precise control. Tighten the kicker so it stays straight as well.

[Sea Hawk]

I networked a second depth finder and mounted it at the rear of my boat right next to mt kicker that i run with the tiller handle. I raise my big motor ojt of the water because when it is in it acts as a rudder and maked boat control much harder. With this setup i can can control the boat quite well. The other advantage i have is the ability to use my gps and kicker to hover in one spot fishing for halibut. Standing at the rear of the boat running my kicker also allows me to keep a close eye on my downriggers.

[EZM]

Many tournament guys and walleye circuit guys use a tiller handle on the kicker and wouldn't be caught dead using a console steer (or remote) kicker. Boat control pays the bills and nobody can argue the precision advantage of the tiller handle vs. the console or remote.

I'm too lazy to use a tiller handle. I went console steer but I use it for trolling trout, salmon and sometimes walleye or pike and get enough control.

I do have the electric for more precision, but again, in wind or chop sometimes the electric isn't powerful enough.

There also removable tie bars (which allow you to console and/or tiller steer the kicker) but I'm not sure you can easily adjust speed or RPM and not sure what the good/bad points on these are.

[cube]

I have a simple system on my boat where my main engine and kicker are linked together for steering. I've always raised my main engine out of the water so as to decrease drag when using the kicker, though it puts the linkage between the two at an odd, slightly less efficient angle. Do you raise your main engine or leave it down when using the kicker? I'm thinking that while there would be a bit of drag, there would be better steering with both the small and big engine in the water steering the same way.... thoughts?

What kind of sonar are you running. Specifically if you are running side scanning sonar you would benefit from raising the big motor up some.

I usually leave my big motor down when using the kicker (mine kicker and main are connected by steering arm) but do raise it to the top of the trim range so the side scanning sonar works better.

Just curious what's your max speed with you kicker? 15 hp seems like a lot.

[Mackinaw]

The other nice thing about controling with i-pilot is you can record a track and follow it over and over. Weither it is a weed edge or a drop off.

Mack

[Bushleague]

I always have the kicker out of the water when main engine is down and always have the main engine down when running the kicker. Does add drag but have way better steering control with it acting as a rudder. Especially when the wind picks up.

This, I don't even have a link to steer my kicker. I just lock the tiller on the kicker and use my main engine as a rudder so I can steer from the console. In a strong wind this sometimes wont work, but quite often it works fine. For staying on structure or precise control I use the tiller.

[dugh]

EZ, no, I use the tiller handle to steer it is much more responsive and turns sharp quickly. Sitting at the back leaves me more open to the elements but it's worth it. My wife loves walleye fishing, on some lakes that requires a lot of steering to follow the structure.
Doug

[Jack&7]

Would love to see some pics of the different set-ups you guys have for linkages from the main to the kicker. I am just mounting a 15 hp kicker this week.

[Okotokian]

Would love to see some pics of the different set-ups you guys have for linkages from the main to the kicker. I am just mounting a 15 hp kicker this week.

I have a panther system like this. Pretty cheap and works. But I had a real flimsy connection at the kicker (from previous owner) and I'm looking for something more solid, a good clamp. Can't find a thing. Been thinking about shelling out for an EZ Steer system. I don't want to spend the money for a remote system. Just a linkage to the main engine.
https://www.in-depthoutdoors.com/wp-content/uploads/bbu_images/fishing/post_images/1247416214_TM3.jpg

The other thing I DO want to get is remote throttle so I don't have to go back and adjust on the tiller. That looks about $600.

[cube]

Would love to see some pics of the different set-ups you guys have for linkages from the main to the kicker. I am just mounting a 15 hp kicker this week.

May I ask why you chose a 15 hp kicker? seems like a lot for a kicker.

[SamSteele]

May I ask why you chose a 15 hp kicker? seems like a lot for a kicker.



Often the 15 hp kickers have a bigger alternator so for those with lots of electronics they can keep the battery charged over a day without having to run the outboard.


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[cube]

Often the 15 hp kickers have a bigger alternator so for those with lots of electronics they can keep the battery charged over a day without having to run the outboard.


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But why not just go for the Honda 8 or 9.9 hp kicker as they have the larger alternator as std.

[huntsfurfish]

For larger heavier boats a 15 hp kicker is no doubt better. Or if you fish big water with larger waves. Larger kicker would be better on the salt as well.
Under powered is under powered. Funny how some suggest that with bow mounts and main motors but not with kickers. Also could help get you home in less than ideal conditions.:)

That said, whatever turns your prop.:)

[Duramaximos]

For larger heavier boats a 15 hp kicker is no doubt better. Or if you fish big water with larger waves. Larger kicker would be better on the salt as well.
Under powered is under powered. Funny how some suggest that with bow mounts and main motors but not with kickers. Also could help get you home in less than ideal conditions.:)

That said, whatever turns your prop.:)
Agreed.
Mercury Pro Kicker 15 is a very nice unit.

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[cube]

For larger heavier boats a 15 hp kicker is no doubt better. Or if you fish big water with larger waves. Larger kicker would be better on the salt as well.
Under powered is under powered. Funny how some suggest that with bow mounts and main motors but not with kickers. Also could help get you home in less than ideal conditions.:)

That said, whatever turns your prop.:)

Must have a pretty big boat. Most boats on the coast 22-30 ft with cabins on them run 9.9's. The 15's will not generally get you home any faster than the 9.9's in most cases because the 9.9's will already get you to hull speed and since the 15 can't get you up on plane it will only burn more gas and make it so you can't troll as slow. That said I wish Merc would have a higher out put alternator on there 9.9 like the Honda. For most boats in Alberta 4 hp will probably get them to hull speed and I know it will indeed get you home in all weather conditions just fine, at least mine did a couple of times. Now have a 9.9 because I wanted the remote steering, throttle controls , and powered tilt. And it's great but does not go any faster than the 4 and my one complaint is that I wish I could troll slower sometimes. ( I have an 18.5 ft Tyee Grand Sport)

9.9 if roughly 10 times the power of a 24 volt MinnKota so lots and lots of power really. But again as Sam said the bigger alternator could be useful.


https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hull_speed
http://forums.outdoorsdirectory.com/showthread.php/70150-why-the-9-9-kicker

[huntsfurfish]

Must have a pretty big boat. Most boats on the coast 22-30 ft with cabins on them run 9.9's. The 15's will not generally get you home any faster than the 9.9's in most cases because the 9.9's will already get you to hull speed and since the 15 can't get you up on plane it will only burn more gas and make it so you can't troll as slow. That said I wish Merc would have a higher out put alternator on there 9.9 like the Honda. For most boats in Alberta 4 hp will probably get them to hull speed and I know it will indeed get you home in all weather conditions just fine, at least mine did a couple of times. Now have a 9.9 because I wanted the remote steering, throttle controls , and powered tilt. And it's great but does not go any faster than the 4 and my one complaint is that I wish I could troll slower sometimes. ( I have an 18.5 ft Tyee Grand Sport)

9.9 if roughly 10 times the power of a 24 volt MinnKota so lots and lots of power really. But again as Sam said the bigger alternator could be useful.


https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hull_speed
http://forums.outdoorsdirectory.com/showthread.php/70150-why-the-9-9-kicker

So there is no benefit in rough water control? If not, I stand corrected then.

[EZM]

I think that certain brands like MERCURY you get a big jump in alternator output going up to a 15 HP which produces 12 amps of charging output back to the battery versus only 6 amps from the 9.9 HP.

I know the Honda engines are specifically designed to have a higher alternator output on the 9.9's which are at 12 amps (electric start models).

I think the Yamaha's are the same as Honda if I'm not mistaken.

If you have multiple sonar and head units and all sorts of electronics on board - the 12 amp output is very good to have.

I also really like the fact my Honda kicker has both a pull start backup and the electric start - just in case I run down my primary. Some kickers don't have both options.

[cube]

So there is no benefit in rough water control? If not, I stand corrected then.

While I have no life experience with those 10,000 lb and greater boats in bad weather, where even a large engine might have control issues, I have had mine out on Lesser Slave and Cold Lake in some very bad weather and started the kicker to see how it would do. I can say it did fine and certainly would have had no problem going all the way back with it had the situation required it. Like I said earlier I had a 4 hp on my previous glass boat and it did indeed have to take me back twice in what I would call very unnerving conditions.

The larger alternator would be nice though. I am however very carful and know the amp draws on most of my stuff and like I said earlier have put in a another battery just for the toys and to start the Kicker (I can and have manually started my kicker) Main reason for the second battery was the Downriggers. They suck lots of juice, but only for a few seconds but on a hot day one can catch 50-100, so I was a little concerned on a long day one might run low on the main starting battery.

[cube]

I think that certain brands like MERCURY you get a big jump in alternator output going up to a 15 HP which produces 12 amps of charging output back to the battery versus only 6 amps from the 9.9 HP.

I know the Honda engines are specifically designed to have a higher alternator output on the 9.9's which are at 12 amps (electric start models).

I think the Yamaha's are the same as Honda if I'm not mistaken.

If you have multiple sonar and head units and all sorts of electronics on board - the 12 amp output is very good to have.

I also really like the fact my Honda kicker has both a pull start backup and the electric start - just in case I run down my primary. Some kickers don't have both options.

Yes I have called Merc and asked why in this day and age they don't put larger alternators on their pro kickers and never got back what I would say was a good answer.

Yamaha's have same electrical out puts as Merc sadly.

[EZM]

While I have no life experience with those 10,000 lb and greater boats in bad weather, where even a large engine might have control issues, I have had mine out on Lesser Slave and Cold Lake in some very bad weather and started the kicker to see how it would do. I can say it did fine and certainly would have had no problem going all the way back with it had the situation required it. Like I said earlier I had a 4 hp on my previous glass boat and it did indeed have to take me back twice in what I would call very unnerving conditions.

The larger alternator would be nice though. I am however very carful and know the amp draws on most of my stuff and like I said earlier have put in a another battery just for the toys and to start the Kicker (I can and have manually started my kicker) Main reason for the second battery was the Downriggers. They suck lots of juice, but only for a few seconds but on a hot day one can catch 50-100, so I was a little concerned on a long day one might run low on the main starting battery.

Exactly .... and it's sure awfully nice to know that little kicker is putting as much juice back into the batteries as possible.

It also a HUGE benefit, in my opinion to have a pull start on your kicker as a back up to the electric start (my Honda has this) - and I'm shocked many/most manufacturers don't have this is as standard equipment.

I know they all come with fly wheel ropes but removing the cover and messing around in a pitching chop trying not to drop the cover in the lake and threading the backup pull rope would suck.

I've had to do this once (my bilge pump ran all night in a rain storm and I left my electronics on all night to boot - forgot to turn off my master power)and the cranking battery was dead in the morning. I just turned the key on the kicker sand gave it one pull and the kicker was able to charge up my battery enough in a few minutes so I could crank the main engine. Real nice.

http://i.imgur.com/keiLJTr.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/YMHPKKL.jpg