Good money on a rod

[Justfishin73]

Good morning all.

Stellar weekend, still wish I was out there. Fantastic father’s day---nailed 80 with the boy, 6 doublr headers, just awesome day.

Boy broke a rod on a massive walleye, and I broke one on a huge jack. I typically use $60-100 rods. I primarily fish walleye, some jack, but of course have dedicated rods for each. For walleye, love the feel of the light rod, but they have had a tendency to snap. Getting ready to hopefully not drop more than $200-$250 on a good rod. My question is, is it worth it, will they fare that much better, or I am just better to get a medium –light and give up on the light rods?

Looking at this St Croix---https://www.tackledirect.com/croixps66mlf2.html

$200

[SamSteele]

Good morning all.

Stellar weekend, still wish I was out there. Fantastic father’s day---nailed 80 with the boy, 6 doublr headers, just awesome day.

Boy broke a rod on a massive walleye, and I broke one on a huge jack. I typically use $60-100 rods. I primarily fish walleye, some jack, but of course have dedicated rods for each. For walleye, love the feel of the light rod, but they have had a tendency to snap. Getting ready to hopefully not drop more than $200-$250 on a good rod. My question is, is it worth it, will they fare that much better, or I am just better to get a medium –light and give up on the light rods?

Looking at this St Croix---https://www.tackledirect.com/croixps66mlf2.html

$200

Expensive rods will usually give you a large win in sensitivity but not in durability. Cheap glass rods are tougher (which is why they are used for downrigging and trolling often) but don't telegraph the sensitive bites well. Graphite rods with a higher modulus tend to be more sensitive but if you are horsing fish into the boat they may not last you.

That all said, my wife is running that same St Croix Premier in a 7' Medium 1 piece. Its a really nice rod. I probably wouldn't go lighter than a Medium if pike are a possibility.

SS

[EZM]

St.Croix are the best rods for the money.

I haven't had any more or less issues regarding the rods breaking compared to less expensive rods - so I'm not sure I agree with Sam on that observation - but he might be right - I just haven't seen them to be any more fragile compared to cheaper sticks.

The good news is that good quality rods have good quality warranties and St.Croix will exchange your rod with zero questions asked - even if you do something stupid like I did .... lol.

I do agree with Sam that going a "bit heavier" is the way to go like a med/heavy for casting or trolling for pike without sacrificing sensitivity for walleye jigging either.

[Walleyedude]

I've only broken one rod while fishing, and it was my fault, I was casting a lure that was WAY over the rod's rating and I snapped off the tip. In my experience, any decent quality graphite rod from around $80-100 and up should last for years and years. I also haven't noticed any difference whatsoever in the durability of those $80-100 rods compared to the high end $500+ rods.

There's no way that decent quality graphite rods should be breaking like that, no matter how big the fish, and especially not two in a day. I don't see any issues with using a medium light rod for walleye and pike fishing, there's a lot of anglers out there doing that all the time, myself included.

I don't want this to come of as "preachy" or know-it-all like, so please don't take it that way, that's not my intention at all. The first thing I'd suggest is to back off on your drag significantly, especially when using a L or ML rod and/or braid. Let the fish run, especially when they get close to the boat. You don't want to totally wear a fish out, but if your drag is set correctly, a fish should be able to nearly spool you long before it should break a rod.

The second biggest thing is don't "high stick" a fish when fighting it. The closer to straight up and down your rod is (12 o'clock), the more susceptible the tip is to breaking, because you're asking the tip alone to absorb all the shock and bend to 90 degrees or more. Keep your rod tip between 1-4 o'clock when fighting a fish or trying to net it, that way you take full advantage of the butt section of the rod where all the power is and it's far more forgiving. Never lift a fish into the boat with your rod either unless you're using serious MH or H action rod.

Take a look at the G Loomis E6X rods in that price range, they've got some really nice walleye specific actions and they're made at the same factory to the same action/power specs as the rest of the Loomis lineup.

[cube]

Good morning all.

Stellar weekend, still wish I was out there. Fantastic father’s day---nailed 80 with the boy, 6 doublr headers, just awesome day.

Boy broke a rod on a massive walleye, and I broke one on a huge jack. I typically use $60-100 rods. I primarily fish walleye, some jack, but of course have dedicated rods for each. For walleye, love the feel of the light rod, but they have had a tendency to snap. Getting ready to hopefully not drop more than $200-$250 on a good rod. My question is, is it worth it, will they fare that much better, or I am just better to get a medium –light and give up on the light rods?

Looking at this St Croix---https://www.tackledirect.com/croixps66mlf2.html

$200

I think hi end graphite rods are probably less durable. You need to take care of them so they don't get scratched as they can break, like glass, on the score. They are much more sensitive though. I always put my graphite rods into rod gloves or rod bags but never do for my ugly sticks.

Like Walleyedude said "high tipping" is one good way to break any rod. One should try and keep the line at 90 degrees or so to the rod when fighting a fish. The other way I have seen rods break is by having the drag set to tight and and when the fish pulls down or goes under the boat the fisherman lowers the rod to the outside gunnel of the boat causing it to breakoff there. Certainly need to lower the drag pressure and get you hands outside of the boat. Take a look at your rod, most good rods have a line pound rating and one always takes a risk when exceeding it. Not saying you can't put 30 pound braid on a 4 pound line weighted light rod but you will have to set drag and fishing style accordingly.

Personally I use Med to MH for walleye and MH to Heavy and above for pike. Seems to work very well and I don't have to over play the fish and release them exhausted.

[SamSteele]

.



I haven't had any more or less issues regarding the rods breaking compared to less expensive rods - so I'm not sure I agree with Sam on that observation - but he might be right - I just haven't seen them to be any more fragile compared to cheaper


I had a Shimano Compre, Crucial, and Cumara break on me over the years. I have since switched to St Croix and have had no more issues, so it’s likely that it’s the manufacturer more than the material itself but it still sticks in my mind. My pre-Shimano G Loomis and St Croix rods have been outstanding.

[Fishwhere]

I've only broken one rod while fishing, and it was my fault, I was casting a lure that was WAY over the rod's rating and I snapped off the tip. In my experience, any decent quality graphite rod from around $80-100 and up should last for years and years. I also haven't noticed any difference whatsoever in the durability of those $80-100 rods compared to the high end $500+ rods.

There's no way that decent quality graphite rods should be breaking like that, no matter how big the fish, and especially not two in a day. I don't see any issues with using a medium light rod for walleye and pike fishing, there's a lot of anglers out there doing that all the time, myself included.

I don't want this to come of as "preachy" or know-it-all like, so please don't take it that way, that's not my intention at all. The first thing I'd suggest is to back off on your drag significantly, especially when using a L or ML rod and/or braid. Let the fish run, especially when they get close to the boat. You don't want to totally wear a fish out, but if your drag is set correctly, a fish should be able to nearly spool you long before it should break a rod.

The second biggest thing is don't "high stick" a fish when fighting it. The closer to straight up and down your rod is (12 o'clock), the more susceptible the tip is to breaking, because you're asking the tip alone to absorb all the shock and bend to 90 degrees or more. Keep your rod tip between 1-4 o'clock when fighting a fish or trying to net it, that way you take full advantage of the butt section of the rod where all the power is and it's far more forgiving. Never lift a fish into the boat with your rod either unless you're using serious MH or H action rod.

Take a look at the G Loomis E6X rods in that price range, they've got some really nice walleye specific actions and they're made at the same factory to the same action/power specs as the rest of the Loomis lineup.

What he said

[lastlatvian]

I fly fish with a St.Croix it was a little north of the neighborhood of your rod's price tag and I couldn't be happier with it. I don't need a mortgage payment rod to have the tip snapped off when my SO slams the car door but a higher end product last and goes a long way. Quality not quantity.

[RavYak]

Get a good rod with a good warranty. For example with Loomis if your rod breaks you can either send it in for warranty or expedite it no questions asked(if you were at fault for rod breaking) and have a new rod in no time for a reasonable cost.

Cheaper rods arent always stronger or more durable. They also have worse warranty and are often a throwaway item if/when they break.

[dodger]

Buy 3 Wal-Mart rods and tape them together. They wont snap and if a tip does break just swap the reel to the next one. :fighting0074:

Dodger.

[ghostguy6]

Get yourself a 12ft bamboo pole from the garden center and some cheap mono. You should be able to buy enough to last a season.

[Asillywalrus]

I would say the value to you as an infavidual depends on the amount you fish and your general interest in fishing gear. To me, it's completely worth it, I don't regret spending money on any of my rods. I love my gear and get a ton of enjoyment out of using it, but there's a sort of collection element to it, it's value to me isn't completely held in the performance of the gear. If you can recognize that you like a lighter rod I would say you would likely appreciate and get a lot of value of higher end rods, I'd recommend you try one and decide its worth for yourself.

Also the St. Croix Eyecon series or the Fenwick Elite Techs are better walleye rods as they are more technique specific as well as for a cheaper price but that's just my opinion.

[Bushrat]

The rule of thumb is the more you spend on a rod the more likely your going to do something stupid and break it.

[fishtank]

Just buy a ugly stik cheap and get the job done:fighting0074:

[bobalong]

The rule of thumb is the more you spend on a rod the more likely your going to do something stupid and break it.

I have been fishing for over 50 years and never heard of that "rule of thumb" before????

[Walleyedude]

I have been fishing for over 50 years and never heard of that "rule of thumb" before????

Agreed.

The opposite is true in my experience. If you spend the money on a good rod, you're far more likely to be careful and take care of it than you are with a cheap one.

[Sled Dog]

Was this one of your first days out this season? Did you test your drag tension? I find that sitting all winter the drag can stiffen up and may need to be slackened off and given a little exercise by stripping some levels e out before being reset. Unusual that you would snap two on the same weekend

[Lowrance Fishburn]

I got a GLoomis EX6 this year and it has been pretty fantastic. Still loved my Crucial more but she broke and I can't cry about it anymore. Depends what type of fishing you like to do. Jigging rods should be different from yout casting or crankbait rod and conversely that should be different from your spinning rig rod.

some advice, go out and buy 6-7 high end rods of all makes and models and for every occasion and function. Then you will have all the selection...and also be a lot lighter in the wallet and nobody likes a big heavy wallet....Hmm wallet is almost spelled the same as walleye....Coincidence?

[Tigger72]

Went fishing with a buddy the other day and tested his gear.... G-lomis walleye GLX Medium fast .... nice rod.... good feel then tried his Fenwick World class medium extra fast... no comparison .... world class all the way... and if you know where to shop for them.... you can get them at a good discount... ( you just have know the right people..... )

[Kurt505]

I got a GLoomis EX6 this year and it has been pretty fantastic. Still loved my Crucial more but she broke and I can't cry about it anymore. Depends what type of fishing you like to do. Jigging rods should be different from yout casting or crankbait rod and conversely that should be different from your spinning rig rod.

some advice, go out and buy 6-7 high end rods of all makes and models and for every occasion and function. Then you will have all the selection...and also be a lot lighter in the wallet and nobody likes a big heavy wallet....Hmm wallet is almost spelled the same as walleye....Coincidence?



How old was your Crucial? I have a one piece 6'6" that's about 10-15yrs old with a metal Japanese symbol on the end of my handle. I have 4 other GLoomis rods including a new E6X (which feels really nice), but I still like my old Crucial the best as well.

[NSR Fisher]

I spent 80 bucks on a medium light Shimano Convergence last summer and have caught everything from 6" trout to 40" pike on it. Very sensitive tip but when it loads up I was able to turn 10+ pound pike with it and net them in close.

I have video of the rod in action, if you're curious.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tGSZTcoz0Uc&t=33s

Skip to the 5 minute mark to see the Convergence perform against a ~10 pound pike. It is full loaded and close its limit but we manage OK. I was using 15 pound braid and a 30 pound fluorocarbon leader.

x2 on the advice to not "high tip" the fish, even the best made rod will snap if you abuse it in such a way, especially with braided line which has no forgiveness.

[walleyechaser]

One of the best rods in the price range is the bass pro carbonlite. Prefer it over the st croix

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