What things should I be aware of when buying used travel trailer?

[slamilton]

I am in the market for a used travel trailer around 16-20ft to be pulled behind a 2017 Pathfinder rated for 6000lbs. I will do the obvious research before buying but this is my first time so looking for tips on things to look for when viewing or negotiating.

Also:
-do you hook the trailer up for a test drive? Make sense that I would but just wanted to see how that would work in winter as the seller may not have insurance
-I am likely buying in winter so likely the thing would be winterized, how can I check if everything is working (toilet, stove, furnace etc)?

Thanks in advance.

[JustBen]

You need to make sure everything works. RV repairs can quickly outpace the value of the trailer. I’d wait until spring.

Just because you theoretically can pull something doesn’t mean that you should. 6000 lbs of total payload assumes that the truck is empty. Any payload in the truck will reduce the towable weight. Realistically, you’re going to be looking for something in the 3000-3500 lb range with your set up to leave room for everybody and everything you want to bring.

[vcmm]

Check all appliances. Press and feel every inch of interior walls and floor. Some times there is dry rot that you cannot see. Get on roof. If you cannot inspect roof because of snow and ice for damage. Wait until it melts.
There are tons of trailers for sale.DON'T be in a rush to buy! If it sounds to good to be true, It probably is!!

[scesfiremedic]

All trailers should be insured under the owners home policy.

Things to look for:
Rusty wall panel nails means water behind the wall
Look for stains in ceiling, walls
Look in every cabinet for damage, staining
Look at hot water tank inside for leak/damage
Press the outside walls around windows to see if they’re well sealed (places for water to get in)
Absolutely have everything fired up to ensure it works
Test the batteries
Check the expiry date on the propane tanks
If you can’t pull the trailer you should remove the wheels, examine brakes and bearings (look at tires for wear, check date of manufacture)
If it’s a fibreglass hardwall, look for any delamination
As mentioned walk the roof, look for prior repairs/damage and if you feel any soft spots run, don’t walk from the deal!
Move any slides in and out (under only 12 volt power, then with trailer plugged into 120v)

I went to look at a trailer with a friend this summer and the biggest red flag was the seller had all the windows wide open and the air conditioning going (in an attempt to air out the musty smell)

[Dweb]

If they aren't willing to drop down 10-15% during the haggle , walk away.

They are a dime a dozen.

Also don't be afraid to crawl right under it and check things out , and take someone else mechanically inclined with you if that's an option.

Sometimes a second set of eyes catches something you don't.

[BUSHRVN]

The above post have hit the major points. While checking the inside walls and ceiling, make sure you are looking inside all the cupboards, upper and lower as well checking for soft walls, water damage, mouse evidence etc. As said, you're gonna have to be looking at trailers that are around 3,000lbs in order to not overdo the weights. The posted weights on trailers are always too low. They are base weights with no batteries, propane, water, waste water, even the A/C units are not included sometimes. If they say 3,000 lbs you can bet that it weights 4,000lbs BEFORE you load anything into it of your personal items etc. Feeling overloaded makes for stressful driving, not exactly what you're looking for while holidaying.
Also like already mentioned, wait till spring when it's not so cold out because you can't see the roof properly and you'll be rushed while looking it over and not be very thorough in your inspections.
Make the seller put water in the tank and run the pump. Then while looking around pay attention to the water pump, if you hear it cycle on it's own with no one touching any water sources, you have a leak and need to walk away. If they refuse to do this, tell them to go pound sand! Make sure they fill the hot water tank and light it up to make sure it works and that there's no leaks there as well.

[Ken07AOVette]

Take this one seriously. Bedbugs. The bastards are worse than cockroaches, I dont think nuclear war will do them in.

Dont buy in winter unless it is sitting in a heated shop where you can crawl in around through and check every single thing. A frozen grey or black water tank can mean thousands to replace.

[bloopbloob]

Take this one seriously. Bedbugs. The bastards are worse than cockroaches, I dont think nuclear war will do them in.

Dont buy in winter unless it is sitting in a heated shop where you can crawl in around through and check every single thing. A frozen grey or black water tank can mean thousands to replace.

All the above posts hit the major points. To add to bed bugs, I'll add mice to the mix. Them buggers can do some real damage, and hantavirus can be deadly. It's also airborne, so just cleaning up what's obvious doesn't mean it's safe. Look for rodent droppings. Like Ken and others have said, I would not buy in winter. Wait until you can run everything properly. Also, do you have a trailer brake package on your SUV? It's kind of a big deal

[blgoodbrand1]

Mice


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[oilngas]

all above are good things to do, but I would add: fill truck with fuel, hook trailer to truck and weight BOTH at a scale, on all the axels. Then do math re; what you can "pull", also check if your vehicle has a trailer tow package, i.e. tranny cooler, transmission temp indicator, bigger rad, air level etc.

Just an old engineer, but I would discount truck pay loads by at least 10%. i.e. if truck manual say you can safety haul, (and scale number support it etc.) 4000 pounds I would tow no more than 3600#'s, with adding all the inevitable stuff you will jam into the trailer.

[IL Bar]

One last thing to check is make sure there isn’t a lien against the trailer. My understanding is some trailers are bought with a 20-25 year loans. To me that’s why trailers aren’t selling because they are worth less than what people with these loans owe on them.

[Dog_River]

Some good points here. Also be very concerned with mouse infestation. They chew wires/hoses etc. Also you need to be aware that they can transmit hantavirus, which can be deadly. I have bought and sold a ton of used campers throughout the years and I am always amazed that so much infestation happen's. When I get a new one to me, I painstakingly go through the whole unit and plug ALL the holes and sanitized the unit.

Also be sure the invert-er is in good shape because they are very expensive to replace.

Dog_River

[Jayhad]

Your tow rating:
I did what you are doing last year, with my grand Cherokee. Bought a 3600lb trailer and my Cherokee struggles. Now I'm buying a full size this week

[R3illy]

I've been thinking of pulling the trigger on a trailer lately as well but was concerned with it being winter. Figured one of the best ways to make sure it's not leaking is to blast the trailer with a hose somewhere.

[dale7637]

If you are in the market for a used trailer, contact me if you like. Ive got a rv dealership up here, its a long drive for most, but we back our used units 100%, plus have the heated shop that you can check the unit over in.

[YYC338]

Lots of good answers here. The two most important things in my book are roof membrane integrity (the death of most older trailers due to leaking and rot) and tow rating.

It's been mention previously to de-rate by 10%. I would say make it 15-20% if you want to tow with peace of mind. Tow ratings are based on sea level performance and we're 3500-4000' in Calgary. The air is less dense and contains less oxygen molecules, hence less power. if you tow on steep grades in the mountain passes, the larger the safety margin, the better.

[YYC338]

I've been thinking of pulling the trigger on a trailer lately as well but was concerned with it being winter. Figured one of the best ways to make sure it's not leaking is to blast the trailer with a hose somewhere.

What that won't find is the slow seeping leaks at roof transitions and seams. Bad leaks are obvious and get fixed. Slow leaks often go undetected and do a lot of damage before it becomes obvious.

[Grizzly Adams]

What that won't find is the slow seeping leaks at roof transitions and seams. Bad leaks are obvious and get fixed. Slow leaks often go undetected and do a lot of damage before it becomes obvious.

Check structural integrity. A lot of the older, wooden framed units , are badly rotted out.

Grizz

[jstubbs]

Says your Pathfinder has a 1462 lb payload capacity. This is the number I'd pay some attention to (payload generally calculated off GVWR - curb weight).

Not sure how big your fuel tank is in that thing, but lets says 90L. At 1.63 lbs per L of gasoline, that's 146 lbs. Then add in yourself. Lets say you're a healthy 200 lb male. Then factor in your wife, who we will assume is a 94 lb 5'9" super model. Then it's pretty safe to assume another 200-250 lbs of whatever else in the vehicle, such as dogs, kids, maybe an iced down cooler, extra camping gear shoved in, booster cables, tools, maybe your wife's purse, anything you might keep in the vehicle, adds up fast. Because you want to calculate worst case scenario, we'll call it another 250 lbs.

That's 146+200+94+250=690 lbs, meaning your payload capacity is now only 1462-690=772 lbs for trailer tongue weight. Generally camper trailers tend to have 10-15% of their weight on the tongue, usually closer to 15% when you have two full propane bottles up front. On a 5,000 lb trailer, that's going to be roughly 750 lbs (giving you a cushion of only 22 lbs). Consider that a trailer loaded up with water/camping gear that weighs 5,000 lbs is going to be advertised as a 4,000 lb curb weight trailer (or less!!), you'll be nearing maxing your GVWR payload on what is called a 4,000 lb camper.

Get into an accident and insurance companies will be doing their best to prove you were over your GVWR so they can walk away and place liability squarely on you. Choose your trailer wisely.

As far as what to look for, everything said previous is all good advice. Hooking up to ensure lights and brakes work is very common. Checking trailer brakes is easy by being at a dead stop, then letting your vehicle coast in drive while manually enabling the trailer brake. Good trailer brakes will easily stop a Pathfinder from coasting in drive.

[possum]

What things should I be aware of when buying a used travel trailer?



Mice and Mould

[slamilton]

Awesome thanks for the info everyone. The Pathfinder does have the trailer package and I am definitely shooting to be under the 3000lb mark as I go to the mountains alot and drive thru the windy Crowsnest.

[tri777]

I would only buy one in in late spring & plan on actually looking at it
when it's been raining for a few hrs..would only buy a house this way also.

[Jack fish hunter]

Open all cupboards to check for leaks

[6.5 shooter]

Says your Pathfinder has a 1462 lb payload capacity. This is the number I'd pay some attention to (payload generally calculated off GVWR - curb weight).

Not sure how big your fuel tank is in that thing, but lets says 90L. At 1.63 lbs per L of gasoline, that's 146 lbs. Then add in yourself. Lets say you're a healthy 200 lb male. Then factor in your wife, who we will assume is a 94 lb 5'9" super model. Then it's pretty safe to assume another 200-250 lbs of whatever else in the vehicle, such as dogs, kids, maybe an iced down cooler, extra camping gear shoved in, booster cables, tools, maybe your wife's purse, anything you might keep in the vehicle, adds up fast. Because you want to calculate worst case scenario, we'll call it another 250 lbs.

That's 146+200+94+250=690 lbs, meaning your payload capacity is now only 1462-690=772 lbs for trailer tongue weight. Generally camper trailers tend to have 10-15% of their weight on the tongue, usually closer to 15% when you have two full propane bottles up front. On a 5,000 lb trailer, that's going to be roughly 750 lbs (giving you a cushion of only 22 lbs). Consider that a trailer loaded up with water/camping gear that weighs 5,000 lbs is going to be advertised as a 4,000 lb curb weight trailer (or less!!), you'll be nearing maxing your GVWR payload on what is called a 4,000 lb camper.

Get into an accident and insurance companies will be doing their best to prove you were over your GVWR so they can walk away and place liability squarely on you. Choose your trailer wisely.

As far as what to look for, everything said previous is all good advice. Hooking up to ensure lights and brakes work is very common. Checking trailer brakes is easy by being at a dead stop, then letting your vehicle coast in drive while manually enabling the trailer brake. Good trailer brakes will easily stop a Pathfinder from coasting in drive.

Most people buy the vehicle then the trailer. To buy properly you should buy the trailer then the haul vehicle. Most people will tell you (salespersons) especially that XYZ vehicle will haul ZXY "no problem" they are LYING to you do your research.

My 2000 F 250 3/4 heavy duty ford with 7.3 diesel is pulling a 32' tag along trailer @~6500 # empty, which is very comfortable but any heavier and I would be running into issues weight wise. Also if the tires on the trailer are 4-5 years old replace them EVEN if they look good.

[Dendog690]

What that won't find is the slow seeping leaks at roof transitions and seams. Bad leaks are obvious and get fixed. Slow leaks often go undetected and do a lot of damage before it becomes obvious.

This is the gospel truth, slow leaks are killer. Once the water gets in, it can't get out. Trust your nose, if the trailer has an off smell to it, move on. Open every cabinet and feel the back, give it a sniff too. Look for any signs of moisture.

[Stinky Buffalo]

Great advice on this thread.

When looking for leaks/mouse evidence, make sure you pull the drawers completely out (open, then tilt and lift, typically) and use a flashlight to check the floor underneath. Many people don't clean that area.

Have found mouse droppings in trailers where the owners were adamant that the trailers never had mice.

[CptnBlues63]

Check the tire wear as it can indicate alignment issues.

I have a 2008 24' travel trailer I bought brand new. I've had it down the the US multiple times since buying it (over 50,000 km's total) and on a trip in 2010 I hit a nasty bump on the Yellowhead west of Edmonton on the way home. (Love the highways in Canada...NOT!) This big pothole wasn't marked with the usual red sign or any warning of any kind and I happened to be checking mirrors when I came up on it unexpectedly and so I hit it at 100 km/h :(


What I didn't realize at that moment in time was that it messed up the alignment of my axles. A couple summers/trips later, I'm on the way back from the US and was doing my usual walk-around (I do one every time I park it, and again before leaving the site...even if it's the next day) the first night back on our side of the border and noticed a badly worn spot on one tire......right down to the cords. So I swapped it out for my spare and carefully inspected all the others. I replaced all 4 and had my axles aligned at a Kal-Tire and it's been good ever since.

[partsman]

One thing for me was I took my daughter with me, she was probably 12 or so and me and my buddy did not smell what she did coming from a cupboard, sure enough soft floor, also look at under belly,
One other trailer guy did floor said all was good, nope not in closet floor, soft as he did not do floor in closets.

[Okotok]

My 2011 Earthbound trailer has no wood or natural materials at all in it's construction. Aluminum, composites and fiberglass (steel frame). Nothing to rot in the event of a leak, which sold me on it.

[Freedom55]

Check the landing gear operation and access to bevel gears. Be suspicious of all auto-leveling devices. Avoid walking on roof panels without the aid of a wide plank to spread your weight. If the roof is leaking you will know from inside.

Roof vent covers get sun damaged real fast. Replace immediately after purchase. Look for damaged in under-flooring, particularly behind the wheels. If it comes with a hitch, check all welds and chain hooks before using. Same for welds or fittings for add-on storage boxes on the bumper.

Check axle alignment and the condition of the suspension.

Free

[AndrewM]

If the tires are worn at all or have much age plan to replace them. Murphy's law says they will blow on your first trip out and they do a lot of damage when they go.