Leaders for pike/ walleye fishing.

[Bushleague]

Yes, I know that a steel leader is vital for pike, and that for walleye one doesn't a leader at all, but what do you guys recommend when fishing areas where both species are likely.

I've tried very short braided steel leaders, very thin single strand steel leaders, and heavy flouro leaders. Personally I haven't been able to verify that any one of these options works better than the others, but have definitely noticed that having no leader at all is quite beneficial on some days.

Interested to hear what others are using.

[pinelakeperch]

That's a tough one. Water clarity plays a role as well. I like to use a fairly heavy fluoro leader in situations where I have a good shot at catching pike and walleye.

[spurly]

Have you tried Titanium leaders?

[EZM]

There is only one way to go IMO - heavy fluorocarbon leaders made from fluorocarbon leader material (not line material) - there is a difference in the two types and how they are made.

Of dozens of people who poo-poo the use of fluorocarbon leaders - the vast majority of them where IGNORANT to the fact there is fluorocarbon leader and then there is fluorocarbon line and they are not one and the same. They used the wrong stuff and had failures.

80lb leader will never result in a bite through - I've now been using this for over 10 years, fish far more than 95% of the guys out there and have caught thousands and thousands of pike on the same leader on my favorite rod (yes that leader is 10-12 years old).

Using fluorocarbon leader material heavy enough - you will not have bites off on pike and it offers these advantages ...

- Clear (and far more invisible compared to steel or titanium)

- Far more flexible and supple

- will not cut your hand if you grab it and the pike thrashes

- won't cut the pike up

- you can customize your own length

- it will not kink

- 80-lb fluoro is thinner than 80-lb steel braided leader

- use your own choice of swivels and snap swivels (quality is important here IMO but that's another thread altogether).

- won't rub and saw off your other rods or line from other rods in storage in the locker

[Bushleague]

There is only one way to go IMO - heavy fluorocarbon leaders made from fluorocarbon leader material (not line material) - there is a difference in the two types and how they are made.

Of dozens of people who poo-poo the use of fluorocarbon leaders - the vast majority of them where IGNORANT to the fact there is fluorocarbon leader and then there is fluorocarbon line and they are not one and the same. They used the wrong stuff and had failures.

80lb leader will never result in a bite through - I've now been using this for over 10 years, fish far more than 95% of the guys out there and have caught thousands and thousands of pike on the same leader on my favorite rod (yes that leader is 10-12 years old).

Using fluorocarbon leader material heavy enough - you will not have bites off on pike and it offers these advantages ...

- Clear (and far more invisible compared to steel or titanium)

- Far more flexible and supple

- will not cut your hand if you grab it and the pike thrashes

- won't cut the pike up

- you can customize your own length

- it will not kink

- 80-lb fluoro is thinner than 80-lb steel braided leader

- use your own choice of swivels and snap swivels (quality is important here IMO but that's another thread altogether).

- won't rub and saw off your other rods or line from other rods in storage in the locker

100% agree with this, however I would like to add... 100% of people who poo-poo mono leaders, are ignorant of the fact that there is a huge difference between mono leaders and mono line.

50-80 lb mono leader material will catch pike just as well as fluorocarbon leader material in the same weights. Have not been able to determine whether walleye can see it any better or worse at this point (going on 3 seasons of experimenting).

I tie mine long and just trim them back a few inches every 10-20 pike.

EZM, I challenge you to try a roll of Berkley Big Game Leader Material, and tell me if you can see any difference at all in performance. In return I will try a spool of whatever you are using and let you know my findings.

[HuyFishin]

Titanium all the way, I hate the curve memory in 40 to 60 pound flour and steel is just cheap and bendy.

[WildCats]

There is only one way to go IMO - heavy fluorocarbon leaders made from fluorocarbon leader material (not line material) - there is a difference in the two types and how they are made.

Of dozens of people who poo-poo the use of fluorocarbon leaders - the vast majority of them where IGNORANT to the fact there is fluorocarbon leader and then there is fluorocarbon line and they are not one and the same. They used the wrong stuff and had failures.

80lb leader will never result in a bite through - I've now been using this for over 10 years, fish far more than 95% of the guys out there and have caught thousands and thousands of pike on the same leader on my favorite rod (yes that leader is 10-12 years old).

Using fluorocarbon leader material heavy enough - you will not have bites off on pike and it offers these advantages ...

- Clear (and far more invisible compared to steel or titanium)

- Far more flexible and supple

- will not cut your hand if you grab it and the pike thrashes

- won't cut the pike up

- you can customize your own length

- it will not kink

- 80-lb fluoro is thinner than 80-lb steel braided leader

- use your own choice of swivels and snap swivels (quality is important here IMO but that's another thread altogether).

- won't rub and saw off your other rods or line from other rods in storage in the locker

X2, and I usually use 60 lb with the same results.

[WayneChristie]

I like 40 lb floro when Im hunting pike, and 20 if Im after walleye, can still get most pike in with 20 if your leader isnt in too deep I just tie directly to my hooks no swivels or snaps

[biggyJ]

40lb trilene big game works for me in the fly fishing game. Big heavy takes on poppers, only had one ever bite and go. Which was due to me being lazy after catching a bunch of pike and disregarding the nicks.

Cheap. Couple hundred yards will cost you less than $10.

[calgarygringo]

50lb floro leaders all the time and catch a lot of pike and never been chewed through. I do run my fingers along after a catch and check for nicks. If I feel any I just dip into the backup supply and put on a new one. When walleye fishing I use the same but 20 lb.

[Freedom55]

Knot-2-Kinky, a nickel-titanium stretch wire leader made in the U.S.A.

[SamSteele]

If I’m worried about bite through I use a titanium leader. Most of the time I use braid with a 30 lb Fluoro leader that’s 4-6 feet long. If I’m fishing dirty/stained water I will also tie 65 lb braid direct to the lure.

The old wire leaders have no place in my boat anymore.

[aulrich]

I end up using both Titanium and fluorocarbon, I have a titanium leader on one of my rods for two seasons now (just trim the line back now and again). But there are days and lakes where the Fluorocarbon catches better.

[pinelakeperch]

100% agree with this, however I would like to add... 100% of people who poo-poo mono leaders, are ignorant of the fact that there is a huge difference between mono leaders and mono line.

50-80 lb mono leader material will catch pike just as well as fluorocarbon leader material in the same weights. Have not been able to determine whether walleye can see it any better or worse at this point (going on 3 seasons of experimenting).

I tie mine long and just trim them back a few inches every 10-20 pike.

EZM, I challenge you to try a roll of Berkley Big Game Leader Material, and tell me if you can see any difference at all in performance. In return I will try a spool of whatever you are using and let you know my findings.

Only potential issue I see is using that green anchor rope in clear water. Otherwise I'm sure it compares similarly.

[EZM]

100% agree with this, however I would like to add... 100% of people who poo-poo mono leaders, are ignorant of the fact that there is a huge difference between mono leaders and mono line.

50-80 lb mono leader material will catch pike just as well as fluorocarbon leader material in the same weights. Have not been able to determine whether walleye can see it any better or worse at this point (going on 3 seasons of experimenting).

I tie mine long and just trim them back a few inches every 10-20 pike.

EZM, I challenge you to try a roll of Berkley Big Game Leader Material, and tell me if you can see any difference at all in performance. In return I will try a spool of whatever you are using and let you know my findings.

No need to throw down the gauntlet …. I have a few rolls of the Berkley Big Game - seems to be fine and I don't see any discernible difference except the tint (color).

I should add, If I'm using a light jig or something smaller, I do have 20lb, 40lb and 60lb leaders as well.

With these lighter leaders, you just have to check them time to time as they can get knicked up over time (moreso compared to the heavier 80lb).

I'm often (90%>) throwing far larger pike lures compared to most guys like drifters, ernies, musky mania cowbells and stuff like that made for musky, so the 80lb doesn't effect action.

If I ran a teenie little 2.5" crankbait behind the heavy 80lb leader (or even a steel one) the action changes of course. That's when I drop it down to 60 or 40's for smaller cranks.

The biggest difference you will see in hook ups is on the slower presentations, where the fluoro is invisible compared to steel leaders. This is less important in trolling or fast retrieving I've noticed as the fish need to make a choice quickly to follow and bite the lure versus studying it while bait/slow presentation fishing. This is where fluoro or mono shines.

[Fishwhere]

I would say depends on your type of fishing. If you are ice fishing or jigging specifically then you really need something that presents well and with some finesse. I cant remember the name of them which isnt helpful but they were of a braided metal/steel of some sort and they are incredibly fine. They are not the typical titanium like knot 2 kinky material or something to that extent - literally probably the diameteter of a 4 pound fireline, really nice. Ive had 6 and even though they are kinked to crap they are so small and fine that it doesnt really matter. I had gotten them at fishin hole and they are pricey.

However if you are casting and working hooks in the open water months its hard to beat a 20-25 pound 12" knot 2 kinky leader. I make my own and get the swivels and clips i like which makes it way cheaper but a big pain cause you cant crimp them, theres a special knot. You could just bite the bullet and buy a 3 pack of premade ones that are pricey - however they will last a really good amount of time and not kink. We fish thrm in saskatchewan in heavy weeds and big pike for a week straight with 1 leader per person on average. Been doing it for about 5 years now. Big flouro is a pain in my opinion....

[SamSteele]

Just a caution with the “Knot 2 Kinky” pre-made leaders, I have had them break where the loop is formed for the swivel and clip. It’s happened more than once, which was enough for me to find another brand of pre-made leader.

The Knot 2 Kinky wire itself is good. I use it for tying a lot of pike flies and trailer hooks.

[old dog]

X2, and I usually use 60 lb with the same results.

X3

[OL_JR]

I've had good luck with Seaguar leader material as far as no bite offs.
Tie my own quick strike rigs with it as well.

With that said there are not a lot of cases where I'll use any leader if targeting walleye in pike infested waters. Generally just live dangerously and hope for the best. Trolling cranks and throwing swimbaits, spoons ya I'll throw a leader on as the hooks are generally more expensive but that's about it really. Generally keep it pretty simple.

[tool]

This might sound stupid or at least counterintuitive, but I’ve had some of my best fishing ever pulling a great big wire leader that must be 24-30” long roughly. I bought them by accident not realizing how big they were and have never caught so many fish and so many BIG fish in all my life.

Pike, Walleye and Rainbows.

[mrcrossbow]

Friend mine turned me on to piano wire and make my own. Works good can make lead any length u want. I tend toward the larger gauges of it. Thin snare wire works also, tryed that out. I just twist a loop on one end for line and other end I thread though my spoon and twist up thight good to go. Haven't had a twist come undone yet

[trophyhunter]

I've had good luck with Seaguar leader material as far as no bite offs.
Tie my own quick strike rigs with it as well.

With that said there are not a lot of cases where I'll use any leader if targeting walleye in pike infested waters. Generally just live dangerously and hope for the best. Trolling cranks and throwing swimbaits, spoons ya I'll throw a leader on as the hooks are generally more expensive but that's about it really. Generally keep it pretty simple.


x2 with Seaguar leader material, I use #80 and the walleye don’t seem to shy away too much. Not finesse fishing by any means but keeps me from losing expensive gear. Heard of guys even tying their own Lindy rigs with fluorocarbon.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Bushleague]

Only potential issue I see is using that green anchor rope in clear water. Otherwise I'm sure it compares similarly.

My Big game leaders are clear. Mostly I tend to use mono or fouro for fishing bait, and steel when fishing lures.

Wondering how low test anyone had tried going with flouro? Could a person get away with using 12- 15 lb test if they were careful to keep it in good shape? Considering just tying about 6' of as low test flouro as I can get away with onto my main line, and trimming it back as needed whenever I catch a pike.

I mean, the odd time I've run straight mono and never got bitten off even while catching lots of pike. Then other days one doesn't even feel the bite, the line just go's slack and you hope the poor bugger doesn't have your lure clogging up his throat for the next couple weeks.

[trophyhunter]

Just a caution with the “Knot 2 Kinky” pre-made leaders, I have had them break where the loop is formed for the swivel and clip. It’s happened more than once, which was enough for me to find another brand of pre-made leader.

The Knot 2 Kinky wire itself is good. I use it for tying a lot of pike flies and trailer hooks.


x2 on the knot 2 kinky pre mades, I had failures at the loop as well as the clasp. Too expensive to fail like that, Been making my own ever since. Buy yourself some crimps, leader material and don’t look back.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[emallard]

What knot do you recommend for connecting the fluorocarbon leader to the braid mainline?

[OL_JR]

I don't personally connect flouro leader material to braid but if connecting flouro line to braid I use a uni to uni knot. Never failed me. I see a lot guys going to the FG knot. Might work slick but like heck I"m going to adopt that contraption if I haven't had a knot failuire to date.

[SamSteele]

I use the Alberto knot. It’s strong and slim enough to come through the guides without issue if your leader is a tad long.

[Coiloil37]

What knot do you recommend for connecting the fluorocarbon leader to the braid mainline?

The PR bobbin knot is the one you want to use to connect your leader to your braid. Check it out on YouTube. I’m at work otherwise I would take a picture of one. I tie mine much shorter then you’ll see on YouTube and have never had one fail, it’s a knot with 100% strength.

The FG is a distant second choice.

Both will easily cast and slip through guides without even noticing it.

I rarely use any wire because the water is to clear and the fish can see to well over here but Spanish mackerel have nasty dentures. When I do use wire it’s 60lb single strand attached to the hook with a haywire twist and to the leader via an Albright knot.

In nearly 40 years fishing in Alberta I never used anything heavier then 8lb mono fishing pike and honestly can’t remember the last time one cut me off but obviously you’re mileage has differed.

[mlee]

My walleye rods all get 15lb braid and 12lb fluoro leaders....the pike stuff is case by case. I use everything from steel to titanium to fluoro usually 80lb.
That said I've caught plenty of big 15+lb pike on my walleye setups and been lucky.
Ice fishing I run 20lb fluoro leaders on everything unless going after really picky walleye then I'll go down to 10lb. Direct tie double uni line to line and single uni at the lure. Again I've hauled up lots of big pike and Lakers like this and no issues.

[58thecat]

I still go with metal leaders when targeting sharp toothed critters....

[kouleerunner]

I use the Alberto knot. It’s strong and slim enough to come through the guides without issue if your leader is a tad long.

x2

[Freedom55]

Thanx. That's a new one on me. I like to learn new tricks and that one looks easy to tie in the waves.

Free

[OL_JR]

Might try the Alberto one as well seems easy to tie and slim.

[EZM]

x2 with Seaguar leader material, I use #80 and the walleye don’t seem to shy away too much. Not finesse fishing by any means but keeps me from losing expensive gear. Heard of guys even tying their own Lindy rigs with fluorocarbon.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I buy components and tie up lindy's and blade / bouncers rigs all the time using fluoro leaders. I like the idea of catching fish on something I made and also don't loose every rig every time a pike comes to play.

Usually stick to lighter 20lb - which is good for that occasional dink sized pike (with sharp teeth) that interrupts your walleye fishing.

The small ones have the sharpest teeth and do the most acrobatic thrashing which are hard on leaders.

[pikergolf]

What knot do you recommend for connecting the fluorocarbon leader to the braid mainline?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pjzUb5QRKuk

[OL_JR]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pjzUb5QRKuk


Thanks for sharing that, not looking so bad at all wow. The methods I have seen earlier just don't look very boat friendly but that is very doable.

[Bushleague]

I buy components and tie up lindy's and blade / bouncers rigs all the time using fluoro leaders. I like the idea of catching fish on something I made and also don't loose every rig every time a pike comes to play.

Usually stick to lighter 20lb - which is good for that occasional dink sized pike (with sharp teeth) that interrupts your walleye fishing.

The small ones have the sharpest teeth and do the most acrobatic thrashing which are hard on leaders.

True this, IMO the worst case scenario is when a pike of any size misses the lure but gets the leader or line through his teeth. Then, instead of setting the hook, you simply saw the leader through the fishes mouth.

I've had two cut offs using flouro leaders. Both happened with surprizingly minimal tension, either on the hookset or immediately after, and were cut a long ways up the leader, far from the business end. While its fun to think that a truly huge fish with freakishly sharp teeth just robbed you, I've come to believe it was simply a fish that missed the bait and swam off with the leader between his jaws. Possibly with a steel leader one might have pulled enough leader through and got hooked up rather than getting cut off.

[EZM]

True this, IMO the worst case scenario is when a pike of any size misses the lure but gets the leader or line through his teeth. Then, instead of setting the hook, you simply saw the leader through the fishes mouth.

I've had two cut offs using flouro leaders. Both happened with surprizingly minimal tension, either on the hookset or immediately after, and were cut a long ways up the leader, far from the business end. While its fun to think that a truly huge fish with freakishly sharp teeth just robbed you, I've come to believe it was simply a fish that missed the bait and swam off with the leader between his jaws. Possibly with a steel leader one might have pulled enough leader through and got hooked up rather than getting cut off.

I've had one small, maybe 15-16" pike bite through a fluorocarbon leader, but it was a very light leader, like maybe 20lb.

I have never had a bite through using fluorocarbon leader material to make leaders on anything 40, 60 or 80lbs.

In fact, my favorite pike casting rod still wears the same 80lb fluorocarbon leader I made up 12-13 years ago. (it's a bit of a game at this point to see how long it will last). I bet I've caught thousands of pike on it. It's rough and nicked up, but on no danger of failing yet.

I will NEVER use steel leaders FOR ANY freshwater fishing here EVER again.

[jungleboy]

I have just started using flouro leaders the last few yrs. I have a large roll of P line 50lb and 80lb that I use. It’s not leader material but I have never had a bite off using it.

[catnthehat]

I have used 40# Mason leader material for 30 years for fly rodding for pike ,it turns over my heavier flies really well, and stands up to big well.
Last year I started using the newer lines for walleye , but never had a chance to get into any big pike, hopefully going to change that this spring .
Cat

[Rvsask]

I also just make my own fluorcarbon leaders for when I intend to fish walleye with the possibility of getting a bunch of pike in the mix. I use 40lb leader material. If fishing pike exclusively I like titanium leaders.

[Coiloil37]

What knot do you recommend for connecting the fluorocarbon leader to the braid mainline?


The PR bobbin, 100% knot strength. Here’s 50lb braid tied to 30lb mono. This will slip through the guides without knowing it was there.



https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200426/cb7351382081e0271c519bec1e9fa064.jpg



That 30lb mono has to contend with 40-50 lb tuna and 50 lb Spanish mackerel so knot strength means everything.

[Osky]

I run 65 lb stealth braid on my deep rigging rods we use for lakers, so I take a 14" or so piece of it and tie a snap on one end and barrel swivel on the other for a leader. My clients use these in waters with walleyes and pike. Very flexible.
I make the same set up out of 100lb stealth when targeting big pike. I've only had one in maybe 15 years cut the line.
It helps with this type of leader or a hit on straight mono by a toothy fish to back the drag down and play them good and tired.... at the boat be sure and keep them down in the water until netted. Don't let them free shake their head if you can help it.
On bigger freshwater pike whatever leader must be 12 inch or so. If the drag is tight the fish make sharper turns and rolls and if the leader is shorter the line will get cut by the gill plate area.
Osky

[EZM]

I do the same thing. Most of my rods have braid that terminates to a quality barrel swivel/snap. They ride in the rod locker like that until ready for use.

When I get to the where I want to fish, I pull the rod out, pick the appropriate leader, snap it on a go fishing in 20 seconds. I keep my leaders in plastic Tupperware, in small labeled bags with tensile weight, length, swivel rating so it's easy to pick what I want.

Not only leaders, but also leads for running a dipsy to flasher, then to a lure, so in some cases instead of having a swivel/snap on one end, and a barrel swivel on the other (the common set up) - Some have swivel snaps on both sides ( example - bad is labeled 60lb, 12", snap/snap).

Makes set up so much faster and easier.

I'm not sure how many variations I have ..... but length and lbs test aside there's snap/snap, snap/swivel and swivel only.

I use the swivel only usually 20lb and long - like 30" so I can attach it to the rod and tie a jig directly to the end.

I usually use a snap for crank baits.

[AK47]

What knot do you recommend for connecting the fluorocarbon leader to the braid mainline?

I just use swivel.

[EZM]

I just use swivel.

I think a swivel is a necessity on some lures to prevent line twist. Some spoons roll, and you can imagine what would happen to your line (and connection) after dragging it through 5-6 miles of trolling.

Pretty much the only time I don't use a swivel snap or barrel swivel is when connecting a fine clear leader to a hook, jig or some sort of lure where presentation and stealth is important.

When I trolling those 8" to 11" big musky plugs (like you see in the picture closest to the left on that photo) a swivel snap is hardly a distraction.

(Those tackle trays are the Pro-latch XXL big ones roughly 9"x 17" and 3" deep - deceptive on the picture there).


https://i.imgur.com/SLmrayX.jpg

[Bushleague]

I think a swivel is a necessity on some lures to prevent line twist. Some spoons roll, and you can imagine what would happen to your line (and connection) after dragging it through 5-6 miles of trolling.

Pretty much the only time I don't use a swivel snap or barrel swivel is when connecting a fine clear leader to a hook, jig or some sort of lure where presentation and stealth is important.

When I trolling those 8" to 11" big musky plugs (like you see in the picture closest to the left on that photo) a swivel snap is hardly a distraction.

(Those tackle trays are the Pro-latch XXL big ones roughly 9"x 17" and 3" deep - deceptive on the picture there).


]

On an unrelated note, if you wish, you can tune a spoon to not roll by experimenting with hook and trailer combinations. To much drag will kill the action, but careful experimentation can turn out some very deadly pike lures that wont twist your line.

[EZM]

On an unrelated note, if you wish, you can tune a spoon to not roll by experimenting with hook and trailer combinations. To much drag will kill the action, but careful experimentation can turn out some very deadly pike lures that wont twist your line.

Yes, for sure - also speed plays a role often times if she flips over the top too.

Same is true of crankbaits and their "wiggle" - I have some where I've removed hook or replaced them, etc...

Always have wolverine rings, ring pliers and hooks in the boat.

[ragweed]

My walleye rods all get 15lb braid and 12lb fluoro leaders....the pike stuff is case by case. I use everything from steel to titanium to fluoro usually 80lb.
That said I've caught plenty of big 15+lb pike on my walleye setups and been lucky.
Ice fishing I run 20lb fluoro leaders on everything unless going after really picky walleye then I'll go down to 10lb. Direct tie double uni line to line and single uni at the lure. Again I've hauled up lots of big pike and Lakers like this and no issues.

Hey MLee. I'm setting up a new rod this year and was wondering if you use 15lb braid as your main line for your pike setups as well? I'm looking to get away from the steel leaders and get into using more of a flouro leader system.

[mlee]

Hey MLee. I'm setting up a new rod this year and was wondering if you use 15lb braid as your main line for your pike setups as well? I'm looking to get away from the steel leaders and get into using more of a flouro leader system.

Pike casting rods get 30lb braid.....trolling rods get 40lb. 30 is even overkill probably but I'm usually targeting bigger pike with expensive lures that I'm not a fan of losing lol....for most every day fishing on most lakes 15 or 20lb is fine for average pike.

[scel]

I have run the absolute range on this one and had many heated discussions on this topic. There is only one thing that I have decided. I have no use for braided steel leaders. They are very visible, easily kink, and catch fewer fish.

When it comes to the TiNi vs Fluoro debate---I sit squarely on the fence. Each has its use.

The other consistent observation that I have made is the faster the bait is moving, the less important the leader choice.

I tend to only fish for pike from May until mid-July, and 75% with flies. After my last heated debate with EZM, I thoroughly gave fluoro leaders a chance (despite the fact they suck to cast on a fly rod) , I can find no functional difference in catch rate between 30# TiNi leader and 40# fluoro leader. In fact, my homemade leaders even fail at the same rate. The TiNi will fail at the clasp while the fluoro will knick.

A 60# fluoro leader is robust, but I feel it is more visible than 30# TiNi. Again, I cannot find a case where once is clearly better than the other, with one clear exception. TiNi leaders are stupid silly sharp and when tying and making leaders, it is possible to get a few cuts and knicks.

For surface flies, I always use a short piece of TiNi leader. Underwater, fluoro is hard to see, but on the surface it acts as sparkle lens.

When fishing for walleye, I prefer to use 15# fluoro leader material. After a pike by-catch, the leader is always retied. If pike and walleye are likely to be caught, then 25# fluoro leader is best. I will not always retie 25# but not checking is a good way to lose a $10 crankbait. That being said, I still catch many walleye with TiNi leaders while fishing for pike.

Proof is in the pudding: https://photos.app.goo.gl/WzuEt7AmqQfjKJ2E7
You can see the 40# line but is really hard to see the TiNi wire (you can see the clasp and fly though)

[ragweed]

Cool. Thanks for the info.

[Lowrance Fishburn]

30 lb flouro leader for pike, 12 lb flouro leader for eyes. Some will say 30lb isnt enough for pike, well it is, and its more sensitive as well. You will also catch more eyes fishing for pike with lighter leader. Sure if a pike inhales your lure it might cut the line - big deal. Shouldn't be inhaling your lures too often or you're probably doing something wrong. Catching a 20lb pike fishing on 12 lb test leader for walleye is also a blast.

[jednastka]

I know that I am "way out there" according to most anglers, but I do the following. I fish 17 lb mono, with a snap swivel tied on, only. I fish larger spoons baits, up to 12" long, with a swivel attached to them. I never use a leader. The larger bait size means smaller fish can't swallow them (but they sure still hit it!), and it seems the larger fish are much more wary, and also do not swallow the bait generally. I check the line for 36" above the swivel after each fish or big hit, and re-tie if there is a nick. On a 7-day fishing trip, I may lose one or two lures, period.


I also tend to fish floating baits, like the Rapala Magnum or the Rapala Shad Rap.



True story: Lost a large (8") red&white shad rap to a big fish on Ranger's Bay in Lac Des Isles. 15 minutes later it popped to the surface once the big lady had worked it free, and I recovered it.