Boat trailer bunks

[barbless]

Good day all. Just wondering who has replaced the bunks themselves. What type of wood you used for replacement if you had an aluminum hull? I have read and heard that pressure treated pine is the standard but have also read that the chemicals used in pressure treated can cause corrosion on aluminum if it leaches through the carpet. I already got the carpet part figured. The trailer is an EZ Loader galvanized with 8 ft 2x6 bunks. Should I use galvanized lag bolts or go to stainless steel? I will also be using stainless steel staples and not glue for the carpet. Thanks for your replies and any added info.

[threeforthree]

I went to rollers . Best investment made! That fit on top of your bunk.

[jungleboy]

If you have concerns about pressure treated wood, don’t use it. Use standard spruce lumber and worse case scenario, you have to do it again in 7or 8 years. If you want to get fancy buy some cedar 2x 6.

I have a trailer I decked with standard spruce 2x6 with no coating or anything to protect the wood and it’s still as good as the day I did it over 6 yrs ago.

[graybeard]

If you have concerns about pressure treated wood, don’t use it. Use standard spruce lumber and worse case scenario, you have to do it again in 7or 8 years. If you want to get fancy buy some cedar 2x 6.

I have a trailer I decked with standard spruce 2x6 with no coating or anything to protect the wood and it’s still as good as the day I did it over 6 yrs ago.

I added outdoor carpet to the raw wood and it has been good for 7 years now.....
Good luck,

[LCS10]

IMHO... The proper bunk covering material for an aluminum boat is UHMW.
1/2" thick, attached with countersunk stainless flat head Allen bolts with Nyloc nuts.

[bat119]

I used standard spruce 6 years ago, no carpet with galvanized bolts.
I went with galvanized bolts because SS is harder could cause more wear on dissimilar metals with vibration.

15' aluminium jonboat

[barbless]

Thanks very much for the replies. Did not even think of spruce. Thought spruce was a softwood. Would a hardwood type not be better? For the most part not too worried about the price as there are only two bunks. Just want some boards that are basically more naturally water resistant and strong. If I have to I will put a water repelling coating on them. These will be put together long before the boat gets to the water. I have a 17ft Sylvan. Some good ideas for sure. Thanks

[jungleboy]

Thanks very much for the replies. Did not even think of spruce. Thought spruce was a softwood. Would a hardwood type not be better? For the most part not too worried about the price as there are only two bunks. Just want some boards that are basically more naturally water resistant and strong. If I have to I will put a water repelling coating on them. These will be put together long before the boat gets to the water. I have a 17ft Sylvan. Some good ideas for sure. Thanks

You basically have two separate pieces of lumber above ground with good air circulation around them all the time . Not subjected to UV . Yes they get wet but only for a few minutes at a time. They dry out on the road fast with all the air blowing around them. I doubt in the long run that a hard wood would be any noticeable benefit . Spruce lumber with some Thompson’s water seal if you are really worried about it.

[JBE]

How about those composite boards used on decks and such now. Expensive though

[catnthehat]

Good day all. Just wondering who has replaced the bunks themselves. What type of wood you used for replacement if you had an aluminum hull? I have read and heard that pressure treated pine is the standard but have also read that the chemicals used in pressure treated can cause corrosion on aluminum if it leaches through the carpet. I already got the carpet part figured. The trailer is an EZ Loader galvanized with 8 ft 2x6 bunks. Should I use galvanized lag bolts or go to stainless steel? I will also be using stainless steel staples and not glue for the carpet. Thanks for your replies and any added info.

I always used pressure treated 2X6's and screwed Petex or puckboard on top of them , countersinking the screws of course.
Works fantastic.
Cat

[ATF]

I went to rollers . Best investment made! That fit on top of your bunk.

Was told long ago, after I did the same thing, that roller are bad for aluminum hulls and should only be used for fibreglass. Something about pressure points from the rollers can lead to problems down the road. This was on a 16ft console type which wasn’t overly heavy. The rollers did make it a bit easier to launch in shallow water though.
YMMV

[Dean2]

ATF, you were told right. Heavy aluminum boat and rollers is a BAD idea, especially if you haul over rough roads a lot.

Wetting the board prior to recovery or launch will really help with the ease of sliding off and on. With respect to replacement boards, untreated 2x6 has been the standard for decades. It takes a REALLY long time for them to rot out as long as they aren't covered in wet carpet. Like Cat, I screwed Teflon/Nylon slider material on the top of my boards to make them smoother, but you only need to do this if you launch and recover where you can't get the boat trailer into the water to wet the boards down. We used to launch and recover in lots of places where there was no actual ramp so your a launching over a bank with a 1 to 3' drop to the water level.

[jungleboy]

Was told long ago, after I did the same thing, that roller are bad for aluminum hulls and should only be used for fibreglass. Something about pressure points from the rollers can lead to problems down the road. This was on a 16ft console type which wasn’t overly heavy. The rollers did make it a bit easier to launch in shallow water though.
YMMV

Yup. Had an aluminum boat on a roller trailer one time that developed a crack in the hull right between where the rear roller contacted the hull and the transom on both sides of the boat.
It was an older aluminum runabout with a 60hp on it.
Probably okay on a boat with a heavy ga aluminum hull but I wouldn’t want it on an average lightweight hull.

[Ken07AOVette]

Was told long ago, after I did the same thing, that roller are bad for aluminum hulls and should only be used for fibreglass. Something about pressure points from the rollers can lead to problems down the road. This was on a 16ft console type which wasn’t overly heavy. The rollers did make it a bit easier to launch in shallow water though.
YMMV

+1

Aluminum gives a little tiny bit on easy pressure point every time there is movement and it can crack the hull.

I have rollers on my boat and was thinking of going to bunks, but I have to dig a pond out back first with the payloader so I can get at the trailer.

[Jayhad]

Places like BPS have pre-wrapped bunks for under $100.00

[Ken07AOVette]

+1



Aluminum gives a little tiny bit on every pressure point every time there is movement and it can crack the hull.



(too late to edit)

[EZM]

Agreed, that standard SPF 2x6 would be ideal for the bunks. It will last years, no worries about pressure treating chemicals and what they do to your hull, and it's off the shelf at home depot.

The outdoor carpet is easily stapled and/or glued, and attaching the bunks to the brackets with a stainless or galvanized hardware is easy.

I am taking boats here - not yachts or pontoons .......... but for boats ...

I did not go to UHMV because I don't want my boat to "slide off" or "slide around". I also don't see the need to "power load" my boat when putting it on the trailer, that makes no sense.

That's how people wreck stuff, including washing out the gravel and sediment at the launch creating holes, destroying their bunks and it's tough on your boat and can be dangerous and unpredictable.

What ever happened to people using their brains and figuring out what the sweet spot is on your bunks (and how deep they should be when loading) so you can glide on "at walking speed" and have the boat stop just short of the yoke?

I dunno, maybe it's just me.

[Jayhad]

What ever happened to people using their brains and figuring out what the sweet spot is

you've never sat at a boat launch, watched and giggled.... there are a few youtube channels just about this

[big zeke]

I was taught a long time ago to back the trailer in so that about 1" of bunk is sticking out of the water. When approaching the trailer, try to focus on a point far forward on land and in line with the trailer centerline. Resist oversteering, coast until the boat comes to rest on the bunks and then slight throttle until the boat has centered itself and you are almost at the winch, kill engine, trim full up and pull out to pull drain plug. Trust me, works like a dream every time.

I have watched many other methods tried, resisted the urge to record the antics
Zeke

[EZM]

you've never sat at a boat launch, watched and giggled.... there are a few youtube channels just about this

Yes we have, and it is truly entertaining.

There is a duplex cabin at Tawawa on Waterhen lake that overlooks the boat launch and you can see the antics while sitting on the little deck and having a beer. Cabins 14 & 15.

We PURPOSELY book these units. Nice view, close to beach and the boat launch.

Hours of entertainment.

[EZM]

I was taught a long time ago to back the trailer in so that about 1" of bunk is sticking out of the water. When approaching the trailer, try to focus on a point far forward on land and in line with the trailer centerline. Resist oversteering, coast until the boat comes to rest on the bunks and then slight throttle until the boat has centered itself and you are almost at the winch, kill engine, trim full up and pull out to pull drain plug. Trust me, works like a dream every time.

I have watched many other methods tried, resisted the urge to record the antics
Zeke

Agreed, but bunk height, trailers vary and ramp angles change a bit - but when you find the sweet spot on yours it's easy.

On calm to slightly windy conditions (normal) I back it in until my rear load guides are just at water level. Bring the boat in straight, under idle power, at "walking distance" - as she glides on I raise the leg and turn it off and she will slide 12"-24" short of the yoke softly skidding into place. no need to crank the strap for 10 feet while the boat turns off center, worry about smashing the yoke or damaging the bunks, boat or people, and you are not climbing on a wet slippery trailer trying to snap the hook on the eye or wrestling a boat.

She slides 90-95% of the way on, stops a bit short, but she stays solid, grounded and didn't wear too much on the boat and trailers as she gently glides on and sticks. That's why I prefer carpet bunks.

The Lund trailers are nice because they have 4 full length 2x6 bunks. Lot's of surface area there. Another reason to buy a quality boat and trailer.

If it's choppy or windy, I have a trailer a little further out of the water and have to increase my boat speed a little. You want to maintain a good speed so the bunks guide your boat straight as you slide in. You just have to go in faster to maintain control.

The biggest mistake people make is going too slow, or having it not slide up and the wind/waves or you hitting the bunks unevenly and the boat goes wonky and crooked and now you have a sht show in heavy waves to deal with which can be dangerous and damaging.

[Jims83cj5]

The only thing in the treated wood that reacts to aluminum is copper if the treated would has no copper your fine. That being said I used a synthetic 2x4 and topped that with 1/2” thick puck board. I also added another support in the middle as they flex more than wood. DO NOT unhook your winch going down the boat launch or it will be on the ground. Lots of horror stories about rollers cracking aluminum hulls.

[Smokey]

I did 2x4's and carpet from discount bin at Walmart or COOP Before that someone in my family used some beauty yellow and brown patterned carpet on 2x4's probably circa 1973.

Will you get a few years more outta pressure treated, sure.

[EZM]

The only thing in the treated wood that reacts to aluminum is copper if the treated would has no copper your fine. That being said I used a synthetic 2x4 and topped that with 1/2” thick puck board. I also added another support in the middle as they flex more than wood. DO NOT unhook your winch going down the boat launch or it will be on the ground. Lots of horror stories about rollers cracking aluminum hulls.

I back mine down and while you can still unhook the winch (and keep your feet dry) my boat gets unhooked (the rear of the boat is already wet by that time). I just don't back all the way down unhooked - but the carpet holds the boat firm.

Then just back it up the last 10-12 feet and she floats up and off and the driver drives away - no need to get out.

My partner and I (he's on this forum too) can launch in one feel swoop (under a minute) and load in about 90 seconds. Never an issue, hundreds of launches and quite a few positive comments from people.

Lots of practice and knowing the boat/trailer

[Jims83cj5]

I back mine down and while you can still unhook the winch (and keep your feet dry) my boat gets unhooked (the rear of the boat is already wet by that time). I just don't back all the way down unhooked - but the carpet holds the boat firm.

Then just back it up the last 10-12 feet and she floats up and off and the driver drives away - no need to get out.

My partner and I (he's on this forum too) can launch in one feel swoop (under a minute) and load in about 90 seconds. Never an issue, hundreds of launches and quite a few positive comments from people.

Lots of practice and knowing the boat/trailer

I have no idea what your talking about, I merely said if you go synthetic don’t unhook your winch or your boat will slide off. Weird

[EZM]

I have no idea what your talking about, I merely said if you go synthetic don’t unhook your winch or your boat will slide off. Weird

Agreed, No one is fighting with you Jim. I was just adding what we do to make it quick but still easy (and was insinuating, even with carpet bunks, you should make sure at least the back of the boat is wet just in case) before you unbuckle.

No big deal Jim, it's all good.

[Walleyedude]

Standard spruce (or fir if you really want to cadillac it) 2X6, covered in marine carpet. I would not use treated lumber. There's no need to, the bunks will last for a decade or more unless you're launching daily and they never have a chance to dry out.

I would also advise against adding UMHW to your bunks, unless you're launching a smaller boat in shallow conditions where you need to push it off or winch it on. The hard slippery surface is definitely not ideal, especially if you're an early or late season boater. The idea behind the carpet and wood is to provide some "cushion" and also some grip, it works very well. As others mentioned, back all the way in to get the bunks wet, then pull ahead to the right loading depth. Should be no problem loading on carpet.

If I was consistently launching a smaller boat in shallow conditions, I'd consider a roller trailer. For all other conditions, the ease of loading and better hull support that a bunk trailer offers is definitely the way to go.

Trailering is hard on boats, especially aluminum boats. The constant banging and vibration causes rivets to loosen and welds to crack. A 6-7 hr drive on bad roads can be the equivalent of years of on water time if the trailer doesn't fit right or the boat isn't on the trailer and strapped down properly. It's worth your time to get it setup properly.

[Freedom55]

I too would stick to the original product and trust that every (non-roller) boat trailer you see has wooden bunks that were designed to be as efficient and inexpensive as possible. Why re-invent the wheel?

I'm considering replacement myself on my shoreliner but I'm hoping to leave the timbers and change out the 'carpeting' only.

Free