Trailering a small outboard motor without a transom saver

[bat119]

I have a 20hp Merc the manual says to transport

IMPORTANT: Do not rely on the power tilt system or the tilt support lever to
maintain proper ground clearance for trailering. The outboard tilt support lever
is not intended to support the outboard for trailering.
Shift the outboard to forward gear. This prevents the propeller from spinning freely.

If additional ground clearance is required, the outboard should be tilted up
using an accessory outboard support device.

Besides an angled transom saver ($100) is there a rubber cushion or some other device to keep the motor up?

[dodgeboy1979]

https://www.amazon.ca/T-H-Marine-MSS-1-DP-Outboard-Support/dp/B001F0IJQ6/ref=sr_1_7?dchild=1&gclid=Cj0KCQiAs5eCBhCBARIsAEhk4r7HlonJch4vVsgicSKP Qt6KkeGsujWkQ1IhrEGUQStC66Xgu8wYIAQaAm5IEALw_wcB&hvadid=367217173101&hvdev=c&hvlocphy=9001431&hvnetw=g&hvqmt=e&hvrand=367301500035909113&hvtargid=kwd-459423981327&hydadcr=26053_9772417&keywords=transom+saver+canada&qid=1615234795&sr=8-7


A transom saver is what you are after.

[bat119]

https://www.amazon.ca/T-H-Marine-MSS-1-DP-Outboard-Support/dp/B001F0IJQ6/ref=sr_1_7?dchild=1&gclid=Cj0KCQiAs5eCBhCBARIsAEhk4r7HlonJch4vVsgicSKP Qt6KkeGsujWkQ1IhrEGUQStC66Xgu8wYIAQaAm5IEALw_wcB&hvadid=367217173101&hvdev=c&hvlocphy=9001431&hvnetw=g&hvqmt=e&hvrand=367301500035909113&hvtargid=kwd-459423981327&hydadcr=26053_9772417&keywords=transom+saver+canada&qid=1615234795&sr=8-7


A transom saver is what you are after.

Fits most outboards of 150 HP and up

I looking for something for a 20hp no hydraulics can't find anything smaller

[dodgeboy1979]

can you not just hang it straight up and down and have lots of clearance?

[Howard Hutchinson]

This will probably work?
https://www.amazon.ca/Extreme-Max-3001-1069-V-Block-Transom/dp/B001AXGT8I/ref=asc_df_B001AXGT8I/?tag=googleshopc0c-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=292996676103&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=13544956156409447548&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9001290&hvtargid=pla-574196788932&psc=1

[58thecat]

saving the transom is to prevent the motor from bouncing around...if you can't keep it fully down and locked then what I do is go up to the shallow water lock and then I ratchet strap the lower leg to my trailer preventing it from moving at all...not so tight it flexes on the transom just enough to stop it from bouncing around and giving the leg enough ground clearance say if you get back into ruff uneven roads etc...been doing this with my tinner since 2005...no issues at all.

[Howard Hutchinson]

saving the transom is to prevent the motor from bouncing around...if you can't keep it fully down and locked then what I do is go up to the shallow water lock and then I ratchet strap the lower leg to my trailer preventing it from moving at all...not so tight it flexes on the transom just enough to stop it from bouncing around and giving the leg enough ground clearance say if you get back into ruff uneven roads etc...been doing this with my tinner since 2005...no issues at all.
>>
You know, this is what I did too when I had a little Zodiac with a 9.9 It too worked well.

[58thecat]

>>
You know, this is what I did too when I had a little Zodiac with a 9.9 It too worked well.

yup, just gotta stop it from bouncing around, the transom can take the weight.

[bat119]

It’s a alumacraft all welded the transom in built like a tank no worries there I was more thinking about leaving it in shallow drive bouncing around a few straps will fix that.
I used a spring transom saver on my other trailer however on the new trailer the back support is further under the boat it won’t reach .

Thanks for the reply’s

[Howard Hutchinson]

yup, just gotta stop it from bouncing around, the transom can take the weight.
>>
Yes and if you were relying on a saver that came off down the road a piece and you didn't know, it would beat the devil out of the motor. Unwelcome suprise when you got home. Yikes!

[Howard Hutchinson]

Oh, okay. You got er covered. Snug is good, for sure.

[bat119]

>>
Yes and if you were relying on a saver that came off down the road a piece and you didn't know, it would beat the devil out of the motor. Unwelcome suprise when you got home. Yikes!

A guy passed me on the Hanson lake road doing mach 1 the 35hp outboard looked like chicken hanging by it's neck bouncing all over often wondered if it survived that trip.

[Howard Hutchinson]

A guy passed me on the Hanson lake road doing mach 1 the 35hp outboard looked like chicken hanging by it's neck bouncing all over often wondered if it survived that trip.
>>
Son of a gun!! Thats a bugger man

[pikergolf]

I have this for my 20 hp, mounts on roller or frame. I use the frame mount, works well.

https://www.amazon.ca/Attwood-Corporation-SP-4000-ADJ-RB-24-Inch-Anodized/dp/B002IV3GZU/ref=sr_1_8?dchild=1&keywords=transom+saver&qid=1615240630&sr=8-8

[Blockcaver]

I cut a V-notch in a 2x6 to fit onto the leg of the outboard (15 HP Honda) above at one of the horizontal flanges above the prop. Screwed a couple of eye hooks to the 2x6 to hold a rubber stretch cord that I use to secure the 2x6 to the leg.

I cut the other end of the 2x6 to provide a jam fit securely into the last roller on the trailer. Finally I use a ratchet strap to firmly pull the leg and 2x6 toward the last roller. So far over 12 years on my 14' Alumacraft boat, 15 HP Honda Outboard and Shorelander trailer, I've had zero issues towing over some fairly rough gravel roads. Cost was negligible as the 2x6 was surplus, so was the ratchet strap and rubber stretch cord. I did have to buy the two eye hooks for a couple of dollars.

[EZM]

I cut a V-notch in a 2x6 to fit onto the leg of the outboard (15 HP Honda) above at one of the horizontal flanges above the prop. Screwed a couple of eye hooks to the 2x6 to hold a rubber stretch cord that I use to secure the 2x6 to the leg.

I cut the other end of the 2x6 to provide a jam fit securely into the last roller on the trailer. Finally I use a ratchet strap to firmly pull the leg and 2x6 toward the last roller. So far over 12 years on my 14' Alumacraft boat, 15 HP Honda Outboard and Shorelander trailer, I've had zero issues towing over some fairly rough gravel roads. Cost was negligible as the 2x6 was surplus, so was the ratchet strap and rubber stretch cord. I did have to buy the two eye hooks for a couple of dollars.

Agreed 100% - for a 15-20 hp a 2x6 or 2x4 is all you need - don't waste your money - been doing this for over 30 years and down some long bumpy roads and never had an issue.

For my big motor I use the m-y-wedge

https://m-ywedge.com/

[jungleboy]

To my way of thinking , when you have that much money tied up in a boat and motor , why not do whatever you can to protect your Investment.

Sort of like the guy with the $15000 atv tying it to the trailer with a couple $5 straps from Princess auto.

[58thecat]

To my way of thinking , when you have that much money tied up in a boat and motor , why not do whatever you can to protect your Investment.

Sort of like the guy with the $15000 atv tying it to the trailer with a couple $5 straps from Princess auto.

And then there is the over priced assortment of crap out there that a simple homemade solution can solve it with things available in the garage?

The OP's motor is light, transom is designed to hold that weight and then some but not the bouncing so snug it down for 2 bucks or throw 30-100 bucks out for a gizmo that will fall off down the Hanson lake road:sHa_sarcasticlol:

I ratchet strap my quads to my trailer all the time....

[jungleboy]

And then there is the over priced assortment of crap out there that a simple homemade solution can solve it with things available in the garage?

The OP's motor is light, transom is designed to hold that weight and then some but not the bouncing so snug it down for 2 bucks or throw 30-100 bucks out for a gizmo that will fall off down the Hanson lake road:sHa_sarcasticlol:

I ratchet strap my quads to my trailer all the time....

Ahhh I think you misunderstood my post. I am not saying a home made solution won’t work , I made my own transom bar that is pinned to the trailer and keeps the motor from jerking around on bumpy roads.
Not all transom mounts are gimmicky gizmos that will fail.and they do take a lot of weight off the transom if they are designed properly.

I strap my atv down to the trailer as well but there is a difference between a cheap 1” $5 strap and 2” $20 strap that won’t break or tear apart from the weight of the machine.

[58thecat]

Ahhh I think you misunderstood my post. I am not saying a home made solution won’t work , I made my own transom bar that is pinned to the trailer and keeps the motor from jerking around on bumpy roads.
Not all transom mounts are gimmicky gizmos that will fail.and they do take a lot of weight off the transom if they are designed properly.

I strap my atv down to the trailer as well but there is a difference between a cheap 1” $5 strap and 2” $20 strap that won’t break or tear apart from the weight of the machine.

ya I hear what your saying too...drives me nuts to see a 60k boat and trailer after a season or two absolutely destroyed, shows the wear of three owners and 20 years...and still making payments on it:snapoutofit:

[bat119]

I really surprised someone doesn't sell a rubber pad or something that could be bunged to a small motor and rest against the transom taking the weight off the shallow drive lever.

Could be someone's dragon's den moment

[58thecat]

I really surprised someone doesn't sell a rubber pad or something that could be bunged to a small motor and rest against the transom taking the weight off the shallow drive lever.

Could be someone's dragon's den moment

pool noodle....just take the one of the side mirror when trailering your boat:) Ya don't need a rifle rest when going to the lake....or do you:sHa_sarcasticlol:

[bat119]

pool noodle....just take the one of the side mirror when trailering your boat:) Ya don't need a rifle rest when going to the lake....or do you:sHa_sarcasticlol:

I usually take it off after gopher season anyway

You did remind me of a round rubber bumper I have in the garage it's 3" diameter 8" long with a hole through it

[EZM]

Ahhh I think you misunderstood my post. I am not saying a home made solution won’t work , I made my own transom bar that is pinned to the trailer and keeps the motor from jerking around on bumpy roads.
Not all transom mounts are gimmicky gizmos that will fail.and they do take a lot of weight off the transom if they are designed properly.

I strap my atv down to the trailer as well but there is a difference between a cheap 1” $5 strap and 2” $20 strap that won’t break or tear apart from the weight of the machine.

That's why I use the m-y-wedge (which is a true shock dampener) - some products like the yoke and bar that go to the trailer are WORSE for your transom, motor, boat and trailer as they send shock both ways, often twisting the transom and adding more energy to the same point increasing the potential for damage.

Transom savers (the bar and yoke type) are a cash grab, I have yet to have ANYONE explain to me how this is supposed to work or why it's better to have a yoke under your motor that is attached by a rigid bar (with no dampening) directly to the trailer that is eating up the bumps of the road?

Please someone explain to me how that makes sense by adding a second direction of energy (shock) travel, to the same point, at a different frequency, at different time intervals? that to me sounds like a "101 class" in ADDING more potential for damage - not less.

Keep in mind, it's not only common sense, but any engineer would probably come to the same conclusion if he was paying attention in class. We engineer and design products, in every heavy duty cycle products, to dampen/isolate and limit energy transfer - this device is the textbook way to do EXACTLY the opposite of that.

This is my advice ... from both a personal perspective and a technically qualified one is use a 2x4 or dampening device for your small outboard.

[Cageyc]

I had a 25 merc that I placed a 2x2 between the motor and motor bracket and bungied the lower leg to the trailer, never had an issue.

[jungleboy]

That's why I use the m-y-wedge (which is a true shock dampener) - some products like the yoke and bar that go to the trailer are WORSE for your transom, motor, boat and trailer as they send shock both ways, often twisting the transom and adding more energy to the same point increasing the potential for damage.

Transom savers (the bar and yoke type) are a cash grab, I have yet to have ANYONE explain to me how this is supposed to work or why it's better to have a yoke under your motor that is attached by a rigid bar (with no dampening) directly to the trailer that is eating up the bumps of the road?

Please someone explain to me how that makes sense by adding a second direction of energy (shock) travel, to the same point, at a different frequency, at different time intervals? that to me sounds like a "101 class" in ADDING more potential for damage - not less.

Keep in mind, it's not only common sense, but any engineer would probably come to the same conclusion if he was paying attention in class. We engineer and design products, in every heavy duty cycle products, to dampen/isolate and limit energy transfer - this device is the textbook way to do EXACTLY the opposite of that.

This is my advice ... from both a personal perspective and a technically qualified one is use a 2x4 or dampening device for your small outboard.


My transom saver bar (home built) is pinned to the trailer and comes up rigid so the lower unit rests in a yoke . I then run a strap around the lower unit to hold it secure .
The weight of the motor is pushing straight down on the transom and the bar ,rather than the weight hanging over the transom ,levering the transom back and forth with every bump.

Think of the clamping a bar on the transom and jumping up and down on the end of it vs jumping up and down on the top of the transom itself

I am running a 25 Yamaha 4 stroke on my boat

[EZM]

My transom saver bar (home built) is pinned to the trailer and comes up rigid so the lower unit rests in a yoke . I then run a strap around the lower unit to hold it secure .
The weight of the motor is pushing straight down on the transom and the bar ,rather than the weight hanging over the transom ,levering the transom back and forth with every bump.

Think of the clamping a bar on the transom and jumping up and down on the end of it vs jumping up and down on the top of the transom itself

I am running a 25 Yamaha 4 stroke on my boat

Likely better built compared to the thin dinky transom savers I've seen.

I'm surprised you have to even tilt it up, most small outboards can be left up/down and need nothing but a strap to keep them from steering left/right - that's the beast scenario.

And, your 20hp Yammy, even tilted up, at 100-120lbs even if you are bouncing around all over without any transom saver (and simply blocked it with a 2x4) wouldn't cause any harm.

Transoms are also built to take that. I have thousands and of thousands of KM's down some crazy roads and no transom saver - not a problem.

But like I said, If you could lower your outboard so it's straight up and down and trailer it down the highway - that's your best bet - but in the case of many outboards, and bigger ones, you get it as low as you can and block or wedge it. Better yet use a dampening wedge.

I am a "never transom saver" guy. But to each his own.

[Jayhad]

To my way of thinking , when you have that much money tied up in a boat and motor , why not do whatever you can to protect your Investment.


Jungleboy, your statement makes me giggle. I see this all the time, I would estimate 50% of the number of buyers try to save $550 on a $85,000+ boat package by deleting the trailer brakes or a $300 engine management app. I always roll my eyes and say OK.