Devcon Bedding A Rifle

[Dean2]

Over the years I have bedded a great many rifles, and I have taught a fair number of people how to do it them selves. Bedding a rifle is probably the simplest accurizing step to do, outside adjusting or replacing the trigger. I have never seen a rifle shoot worse bedded that it did before and I have seen a great many that shoot far better after being bedded.

In the good old days, stocks were often pretty rough in the inside inletting, only the better quality rifles were final bedded by hand and the interior bedding smoothed and nicely finished. Despite that many shot pretty well just as they came from the factory. In today's world we have CNC machines that do the inlet of the stock. The inletting looks much smoother, clean and precise. Despite that, the inletting is often not as effective as the old style was.

In the picture below you can see the inletting on a CZ557. Looks really nice,the tang even has a steel pillar to protect the gun from cracks at the tang, and a steel insert at the recoil lug are to protect that area from splitting. The problem is, when you remove the action screws and then press down on the tang, the action rocks up and down. Properly inlet, the action should be pretty much movement free, if it rocks it means there are high spots and you are going to get very uneven torque on the action itself once it is tightened into the stock.

The fourth picture is the profile of the inlet after 3 liquid ounces of Devcon have been placed in the area of the recoil lug and barrel channel. This is the result after the action is removed from setup, final cleanup has yet to be done. Devcon provides a skin tight fit, you can even see the small machining marks from the action, replicated in the Devcon. If you look closely at the profile of the Devcon and compare it to the other two pictures it is very easy to see just how different it is. The Devcon profile is what a properly bedded rifle should look like.

The action now has a solid front contact area at the front of the action, contact at the tang and no contact in between. This is about as stress free and solid as you can get an action in a stock without gluing it in permanently. The rifle was not shot before bedding it, but in my mind there is zero doubt that the bedded version would show a big improvement over the unbedded, particularly longer term.

http://i.imgur.com/uRr4OPG.jpg (https://imgur.com/uRr4OPG)

https://i.imgur.com/bUk6Gka.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/e9w3ORR.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/f4BnBtx.jpg

[1886]

Do you only bed the front action screw? Or do you do the tang as well?

[Dean2]

Do you only bed the front action screw? Or do you do the tang as well?

In this case the tang has a pillar so not on this one, but most others I do a Devcon pillar on the tang.

[Positrac]

The finished product looks great Dean. Do you have any pics while the job is being done? I have one rifle it like to do myself but so far I’m a bit leery on trying.

[Dean2]

The finished product looks great Dean. Do you have any pics while the job is being done? I have one rifle it like to do myself but so far I’m a bit leery on trying.

There really isn't much to take pictures of during the process. With this one, I put on a coat of Carnuba wax, let it dry, buffed it shiny, did second coat and buffed it too. I wax EVERYTHING inside and out that is metal, including the screws. In the case of this bedding job, there wasn't even anything that needed to be taped off or platicine puttied. Only other step is to use a Dremel to drill a series of 1/16" diameter holes, between 1/8 and 1/4" deep, where you want the Devcon to sit, for the Devcon to bite onto. My one suggestion, crack the screws loose at 5 hours then tighten. Leave the action in the stock a full 48 hours, it will actually release way better, than it does with a shorter cure time. Keep the gun at least 70F, 90 is even better, while the Devcon cures.

There are a ton of great videos, Brownelles website has a couple of really good ones on bedding a rifle. If you were closer I would offer to help you do the first one. Once you have done one it is pretty easy. Even after doing so many, every time I do an action I haven't done before, it is always so satisfying to see them pop loose cleanly.

[Positrac]

Thanks Dean. Much appreciated.

Looks like a good project to try on one of these -30 days when I don’t want to leave the house.

[Twisted Canuck]

An excellent explanation Dean. As always, you have contributed some solid and valuable information to the forum. I'm also going to agree that it will shoot better this way, then if it had been left sloppy and unbedded.

I'm always amazed, with today's CNC equipment, that the factory inletting is so sloppy. That is entirely unnecessary. They could laser scan, do any number of adjustments, to improve those tolerances. I suspect they leave it sloppy for ease of assembly. But when a person is buying a hunting rifle, you want tolerances a bit better then an SKS!

[MK2750]

I have had much better luck buying studs to replace the action screws during bedding and doing the entire action. It is truly stress free this way and you simply hold the action securely with surgical rubber tubing or even tape.

[triguy]

great looking job you did there!

[tirebob]

Lucky rifle! Looks like some top level treatment there... :)

As TC pointed out, it is surprising that in todays day and age you would figure that extremely tight tolerances and repeatability in construction should be a given with CNC technology, but it is obvious that isn't necessarily so.

May be a silly question, but do you think it could be explained away simply because wood has so much potential movement from moisture levels, grain direction etc? I know even just moving a flat piece of wood from outside into the basement can cause a heavy concave to develop. I would think it is totally possible for a rifle stock as well, no?

[catnthehat]

May be a silly question, but do you think it could be explained away simply because wood has so much potential movement from moisture levels, grain direction etc? I know even just moving a flat piece of wood from outside into the basement can cause a heavy concave to develop. I would think it is totally possible for a rifle stock as well, no?
As far as wood and moisture goes, proper sealing of the bed is mandatory to stop as much movement as possible.
I use a good quality wood sealer when opening up barrel channels or when adjusting a stock for trigger changes.
I have seen many instances where an action has started bearing on wood in places it originally did not.:)
Cat

[elkhunter11]

With most standard recoil lugs, like the 700 footprint, I often put a strip of tape across the bottom of the recoil lug, to make sure that there is zero pressure on the bottom of the recoil lug, after bedding. If for some reason the barreled action doesn't want to come out of the stock, I put it in the deep freeze for a couple of hours and as the metal contracts, it comes free from the bedding compound, which doesn't contract as much. And while many people don't, I skim bed stocks with the aluminum bedding blocks, as they seem to be more stable during temperature changes, after being bedded.

[catnthehat]

Excellent work Dean!
Probably the most extreme example of a heavily modified wood stock I have ever seen is on my .223 irons match rifle.
This rifle was built by accuracy master Jim Duggan , he did the stock and the accurizing of the Omark/ Sportco 44 action.
Cat
The pillars and bedding blocks are massive!
https://i.imgur.com/swqde34.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/87G9JAm.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/aDiiozX.jpg

[Dean2]

As far as wood and moisture goes, proper sealing of the bed is mandatory to stop as much movement as possible.
I use a good quality wood sealer when opening up barrel channels or when adjusting a stock for trigger changes.
I have seen many instances where an action has started bearing on wood in places it originally did not.:)
Cat

Agreed on all points. That is actually the issue hypermoa is having with the alpine that wouldn't group. There is wood rubbing in a whole bunch of places it shouldn't. Needs to be bedded, barrel channel relieved and then all the parts well sealed against moisture.

[eschafer]

Just working up the courage to bed my 338 WM Browning A-Bolt I.... It shoots like a toilette... I just can't wrap my head around the rear tang area as the rear of the trigger is all part of the rear action mount.... Not sure how yet to handle it... The recoil lug is presently bedded minimally from factory... Very little bedding there... A video of a Browning bedded just doesn't yet exist.... I've no experience bedding a rifle as yet...

[kujoseto]

Looks great Dean.
I have been using MarineTex since using devcon only once and prefer the MarineTex
Any opinion between the two?

[obsessed1]

Just working up the courage to bed my 338 WM Browning A-Bolt I.... It shoots like a toilette... I just can't wrap my head around the rear tang area as the rear of the trigger is all part of the rear action mount.... Not sure how yet to handle it... The recoil lug is presently bedded minimally from factory... Very little bedding there... A video of a Browning bedded just doesn't yet exist.... I've no experience bedding a rifle as yet...

Personally I would bed the front of the action and just pillar the rear action bolt. You can make a devcon pillar for the rear action bolt...there's just not much room for bedding the tang. It's been a while but IIRC there is a bit of stock between the mag well and trigger group that can be bedded as well

[Dean2]

Looks great Dean.
I have been using MarineTex since using devcon only once and prefer the MarineTex
Any opinion between the two?

Have used both and many others as well. Devcon is definitely harder to get the hang of using than many and it is more expensive. Once you do figure it out however I find the outcome significantly better. Devicon shrinks less while curing, has a slightly lower hot and cold expansion contraction delta, is harder and can be machined as well as tapped/threaded and is not affected by oils and gun cleaners to the same extent. Marinetex is really very good, probably my second choice after Devcon.

[fps plus]

Just working up the courage to bed my 338 WM Browning A-Bolt I.... It shoots like a toilette... I just can't wrap my head around the rear tang area as the rear of the trigger is all part of the rear action mount.... Not sure how yet to handle it... The recoil lug is presently bedded minimally from factory... Very little bedding there... A video of a Browning bedded just doesn't yet exist.... I've no experience bedding a rifle as yet...

If this is your first go I would suggest you only do the front recoil lug area . I have fixed guns where the rear trigger safety has been damaged by improper bedding . It can be done but requires some finesse.

[270person]

Very nice Dean and good on you for encouraging others to give it a go. You just drilled the 1/8 holes in this CZ stock vs the dremel scrape on my 700?

Couldn't be happier with the job you did on my Whelen. Outshoots other pricier rifles I own by a Lot.

[Dean2]

If this is your first go I would suggest you only do the front recoil lug area . I have fixed guns where the rear trigger safety has been damaged by improper bedding . It can be done but requires some finesse.

I agree completely. Even when y get good at it bedding the front and rear separately solves a whole bunch off issues.

270. Thanks, but you actually did the bedding. All I did was help you learn how. The results are what you made them.

[HyperMOA]

Agreed on all points. That is actually the issue hypermoa is having with the alpine that wouldn't group. There is wood rubbing in a whole bunch of places it shouldn't. Needs to be bedded, barrel channel relieved and then all the parts well sealed against moisture.

I got my Devcon this week. I’m hoping to try bedding an axis this weekend or next. Does it let off strong odours?

[270person]

I agree completely. Even when y get good at it bedding the front and rear separately solves a whole bunch off issues.

270. Thanks, but you actually did the bedding. All I did was help you learn how. The results are what you made them.


The results are I'm still too chicken to try it myself. :)

[Lefty Bryan]

I had a sloppy foreend on a Marlin 1895 and Devcon bedded it - worked out great.

My next project, which I am looking for some advice on is 2x Weatherby Mark V lightweights. One in 257 WBY and one in 300 WBY.

Previous owner took a crack at bedding the recoil lug on the 257 with what looks like epoxy. Seems like a tight fit - so I am not too keen on redoing it.

The 300WBY has no bedding so will start with that to try and tighten things up.

My question relates to the pressure point that weatherby puts on the front of these stocks - ie the barrel is not free floated. I am guessing that bedding will change the amount of pressure applied to the barrel. Is it best to completely remove this pressure point? Mixed reviews from guys online doing this and I am not too clear on how to redo / customize a pressure point if it is required.

Anyone have thoughts / experience with these lightweight fluted barrels with / without pressure points?

Thanks.

[Dean2]

I had a sloppy foreend on a Marlin 1895 and Devcon bedded it - worked out great.

My next project, which I am looking for some advice on is 2x Weatherby Mark V lightweights. One in 257 WBY and one in 300 WBY.

Previous owner took a crack at bedding the recoil lug on the 257 with what looks like epoxy. Seems like a tight fit - so I am not too keen on redoing it.

The 300WBY has no bedding so will start with that to try and tighten things up.

My question relates to the pressure point that weatherby puts on the front of these stocks - ie the barrel is not free floated. I am guessing that bedding will change the amount of pressure applied to the barrel. Is it best to completely remove this pressure point? Mixed reviews from guys online doing this and I am not too clear on how to redo / customize a pressure point if it is required.

Anyone have thoughts / experience with these lightweight fluted barrels with / without pressure points?

Thanks.

My 257 Ultra light MKV is bedded and it also has the pressure point in the barrel channel. It shoots much better with the pressure point, as do most really light weight barrels. I tried it with and with out, the results weren't even close.

P.S. I missed your post Hyper, sorry, but SNS2 is completely correct. There is no discernible odour to Devcon.

[sns2]

I got my Devcon this week. I’m hoping to try bedding an axis this weekend or next. Does it let off strong odours?

Not at all

[elkhunter11]

My 257 Ultra light MKV is bedded and it also has the pressure point in the barrel channel. It shoots much better with the pressure point, as do most really light weight barrels. I tried it with and with out, the results weren't even close.

P.S. I missed your post Hyper, sorry, but SNS2 is completely correct. There is no discernible odour to Devcon.

I bedded a Vanguard MOA and removed the pressure point, accuracy got even worse, so I added a pressure point, and the accuracy was better than ever. It's fairly easy to ad a pressure point.

[marky_mark]

Weatherbys need a pressure point

[C&C Outdoors]

Weatherbys need a pressure point

Yes, and more so with the lighter #2 contour barrels.

[elkhunter11]

Weatherbys need a pressure point

Very often they do with the light contour barrels, but I had a Mark V in 257wby rebarreled with a #4 barrel, and t was an honest 1/2moa rifle when free floated.

[EZM]

Dean walked me through (he did most of the tough meticulous work) on a 257 WBY Vanguard we did in his gun shop and we did not put any pressure points past the lug.

The stock is a Boyd's AT One and shoots amazing - It was sub moa out of the box with factory ammo and now shoots 5/8 to 1/2 with no pressure on barrel. It's free floated.

So, although I am not as experienced as many of you on here, I have had 2 WBY's bedded since and none of them got worse. Both shot better. The Vanguard in the picture ..... much, much better. Maybe those plastic factory stocks suck - I dunno.

One is a MKV 300WBY - so it's likely not a Vanguard or MKV thing - might just be fluke - but based on what I see, that's not been my experience.

The only issue I had to correct before we bedded it, was that the machining on the At-One was slightly off where the bolt came down - so I had to dremel it open a little - but everything else was pretty good. Wood will never be perfect so it totally makes sense to bed a rifle. (it might have been one of the very first AT-One stocks when I purchased it for a WBY long action). I'm pretty sure the AT-One was out for maybe a week when I ordered it brand new - one of the first customers out of the gate.

https://i.imgur.com/TW06Zwd.jpg

here's the side angle on it ...

https://i.imgur.com/9GtZ8mP.jpg

[EZM]

Very often they do with the light contour barrels, but I had a Mark V in 257wby rebarreled with a #4 barrel, and t was an honest 1/2moa rifle when free floated.

I agree - see my next post - my experience with free floating Bees has been great.

300 WBY - MKV - went from MOA to .75

257 WBY - Vanguard in a Boyd's At-One - went from just sub MOA to consistently 5/8 or less. I've had some groups under 1/2" !!!

(and I am not a "shooter")

Both free floated. Both Devcon. Both Dean's method ...

[Lefty Bryan]

Thanks all. I’ll take a crack at it and see how it goes. Start simple by bedding action and go from there. If I remember I’ll do a bit of a thread on it with all the iterations, even if it is just a simple pre bedded to bedded with no other tweaks to pressure point required.

Cheers!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[barsik]

I'm a bit late to the party but here is a pretty decent clip explaining how to bed a rifle. just click on the link. edit, added part 2

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L0Z7ujjv89g&ab_channel=GunBlue490

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2MI-Ic43sqc&ab_channel=GunBlue490

[EZM]

Thanks all. I’ll take a crack at it and see how it goes. Start simple by bedding action and go from there. If I remember I’ll do a bit of a thread on it with all the iterations, even if it is just a simple pre bedded to bedded with no other tweaks to pressure point required.

Cheers!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

That's true - you could bed the action and lug and leave the barrel floated - if it doesn't shoot well - you can always go back and put in a pressure point (or full length bedding along the barrel).

I'm probably going to do a Rem700 BDL next - just going back and forth on either changing the stock out or not - I really like the classic look of the factory stock.

I'm going to do the action and lug first and leave that skinny spaghetti barrel free floated to see how it shoots - I can always go back and bed it full length if I needed to.

Anyone done a BDL long action? curious to hear what worked for you?

[Dean2]

That's true - you could bed the action and lug and leave the barrel floated - if it doesn't shoot well - you can always go back and put in a pressure point (or full length bedding along the barrel).

I'm probably going to do a Rem700 BDL next - just going back and forth on either changing the stock out or not - I really like the classic look of the factory stock.

I'm going to do the action and lug first and leave that skinny spaghetti barrel free floated to see how it shoots - I can always go back and bed it full length if I needed to.

Anyone done a BDL long action? curious to hear what worked for you?

On a Long action 700 I would bed the recoil lug and first inch or two of the chamber, Devcon pillar the tang, then shoot it. Many of the sporter barreled ones shoot great free floated even though they all come from the factory with a pressure point near the tip. I have only had to put a pressure point in a couple and those I didn't full length bed just put in a 1.5" pressure pad just behind the black forend tip.

[270person]

On a Long action 700 I would bed the recoil lug and first inch or two of the chamber, Devcon pillar the tang, then shoot it. Many of the sporter barreled ones shoot great free floated even though they all come from the factory with a pressure point near the tip. I have only had to put a pressure point in a couple and those I didn't full length bed just put in a 1.5" pressure pad just behind the black forend tip.


Pretty sure this is what you did with my Whelen BDL if memory serves Dean. Tang and a half inch either side of the lug. I'm too lazy to go down and dig it out of the safe and look. The results speak for themselves with consistent under .75 moa with 225 AB's

[kujoseto]

Have used both and many others as well. Devcon is definitely harder to get the hang of using than many and it is more expensive. Once you do figure it out however I find the outcome significantly better. Devicon shrinks less while curing, has a slightly lower hot and cold expansion contraction delta, is harder and can be machined as well as tapped/threaded and is not affected by oils and gun cleaners to the same extent. Marinetex is really very good, probably my second choice after Devcon.

Thanks. Good to know

[catnthehat]

I have never seen an issue with a floated barrel that I bedded about an inch in front of the recoil lug except fir once, and it was a very whippy, light .270 on a Mauser action.
I have done 6 Weatherbys and every one increased accuracy with floating and a proper bedding job .
The exception of course , would be falling blocks and the Lee Enfield actions, but those get bedded differently than a standard bolt action rifle, the Enfield especially.
Cat

[B C BILL]

Anyone try to use JB Weld to bed a rifle stock?

[Dean2]

Cat

I agree that the regular MKV sporter barrel shoot good floated. The ones I was talking about that needed a pressure point, is the Ultra Light version. They have a much thinner profile barrel and it is 26 or 28 inches long. Even with the fluting they are pretty wippy and eith the high powder loads in a Bee cartridge it only takes 2 or 3 rounds to get them pretty hot. The pressure point seems to take out the wander caused by the barrel heating.

As to JB weld I have heard of people using it, I never have nor would I when there are so many better choices.

[catnthehat]

Cat

I agree that the regular MKV sporter barrel shoot good floated. The ones I was talking about that needed a pressure point, is the Ultra Light version. They have a much thinner profile barrel and it is 26 or 28 inches long. Even with the fluting they are pretty wippy and eith the high powder loads in a Bee cartridge it only takes 2 or 3 rounds to get them pretty hot. The pressure point seems to take out the wander caused by the barrel heating.
.
The one I am working with right now is just stamped MkV, but it has a fairly light, fluted barrel in a synthetic stock with an aluminum bedding block .
It's a bloody Cannon ( 338/378)
I originally loaded a bunch of ammo for the fella in 2007
And he has been smacking stuff with it since , everything dropping in its tracks.
However , with only two cartridges left he figured it was time to contact me again!LOL.
Accuracy was "okay" right out to 500 today but not nearly what it was when I originally did the loads.
I scoped it and it can stand a good cleaning, and there was some oil in the bed , so I am thinking it will smarten up tomorrow. :)
This barel is fully floated from the factory.
Cat

[marky_mark]

The one I am working with right now is just stamped MkV, but it has a fairly light, fluted barrel in a synthetic stock with an aluminum bedding block .
It's a bloody Cannon ( 338/378)
I originally loaded a bunch of ammo for the fella in 2007
And he has been smacking stuff with it since , everything dropping in its tracks.
However , with only two cartridges left he figured it was time to contact me again!LOL.
Accuracy was "okay" right out to 500 today but not nearly what it was when I originally did the loads.
I scoped it and it can stand a good cleaning, and there was some oil in the bed , so I am thinking it will smarten up tomorrow. :)
This barel is fully floated from the factory.
Cat

That’s probably an accumark

[catnthehat]

That’s probably an accumark

Yeah likely is.:sHa_shakeshout:
Very smooth action on that rifle, feeding and extracting!
Cat

[DLab]

Cat

I agree that the regular MKV sporter barrel shoot good floated. The ones I was talking about that needed a pressure point, is the Ultra Light version. They have a much thinner profile barrel and it is 26 or 28 inches long. Even with the fluting they are pretty wippy and eith the high powder loads in a Bee cartridge it only takes 2 or 3 rounds to get them pretty hot. The pressure point seems to take out the wander caused by the barrel heating.

As to JB weld I have heard of people using it, I never have nor would I when there are so many better choices.
Aside from Devcon and Marine Tex, what are all the better choices?
Also, I'm curious as to why you think JB Weld is not suitable for the application.

[barsik]

Aside from Devcon and Marine Tex, what are all the better choices?
Also, I'm curious as to why you think JB Weld is not suitable for the application.


set time on the jb weld is too quick. it is meant to harden very rapidly where devcon has a much longer working time.

[Dean2]

Brownelles sells a high quality bedding putty that has stainless steel in it and is under their own name, similar to Devcon. There are a ton of other things you could use to bed a rifle. Personally, if you are going to go to that much work, and you are installing a permanent accuracy improvement to your rifle, I believe in using the best product you can find. For me that is Devcon.

[DLab]

set time on the jb weld is too quick. it is meant to harden very rapidly where devcon has a much longer working time.
Kwik Weld JB sets up fast, original JB sets up in 3-5 hours, lots of working time.
If every thing is prepped correctly for bedding shouldn't need more than 15-20 minutes to apply epoxy to parts and set in place.

[DLab]

Brownelles sells a high quality bedding putty that has stainless steel in it and is under their own name, similar to Devcon. There are a ton of other things you could use to bed a rifle. Personally, if you are going to go to that much work, and you are installing a permanent accuracy improvement to your rifle, I believe in using the best product you can find. For me that is Devcon.
Not arguing that Devcon is an excellent product for this purpose and is used by many, what I'm wondering, if you've never used JB why you think it's not suitable?
It has many of the same properties that Devcon has and is a steel reinforced epoxy putty.

[catnthehat]

Some epoxies are more elastic than others as well.
Lately I have used an industrial epoxy putty tgat can be set under water. And can be machine within a few hours of the repair. It is used for pumps , shafted. Etc and is very easy to work with.
It has a tensile strength and elasticity similar to Bisonite
Bedding.
Cat

[Dean2]

Not arguing that Devcon is an excellent product for this purpose and is used by many, what I'm wondering, if you've never used JB why you think it's not suitable?
It has many of the same properties that Devcon has and is a steel reinforced epoxy putty.

I have removed 2 JB weld bedding jobs and there was a good reason they needed to come out. The guns would not shoot well. The reason they didn't hold zero or group well was because they were poorly bedded. They would have had the same problem no matter what the bedding material but I was not impressed with the material coming out. Sort of like Accraglass, I like it for repairing breaks and stock cracks, but it is not my preferred bedding material.

I am not saying mine is the only way, lots of others use a ton of different stuff, just passing on my experience after bedding a pretty large number of different kinds of rifles, and fixing a lot of hack bedding jobs.

[Duramaximos]

Is this the devcon you recommend?

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/aw/d/B000KKMXN2/ref=ox_sc_act_image_1?smid=A30HM80T26CN0A&psc=1


I see a few versions available.

Sent from my SM-N960W using Tapatalk

[Dean2]

Nope

This is the one.

Devcon 10110 Plastic Steel Epoxy Putty (A), 1 lbs Bottle https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00065TMTO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apan_glc_i_ZG3CNYT9D4HB2BHP5ADT

[pikergolf]

Nope

This is the one.

Devcon 10110 Plastic Steel Epoxy Putty (A), 1 lbs Bottle https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00065TMTO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apan_glc_i_ZG3CNYT9D4HB2BHP5ADT

Acklands has it as well, a little cheaper to boot. If you are able, vacuum seal the remainder, it will keep longer.

[Dean2]

Acklands has it as well, a little cheaper to boot. If you are able, vacuum seal the remainder, it will keep longer.

Devcon has a 5 or 10 year min shelf life. There is a best before date on the box and it is good even past that as bedding from what I have read. Never personally had a tub last more than a couple of years. Biggest trick I learned a few years back is to sit the putty in real hot water for 10 or 15 minutes prior to use. Even with new putty it makes it way easier to mix. Never tried vac sealing it as I always figured the tub was air tight. Next new tub I get I might try that just to see.

[fps plus]

People will have sticker shock when the see the price of Devcon steel .

[270person]

I ordered my Devcon from Motion Canada. No idea how much price has changed in the last 2 years but I'd be willing to bet its cheaper than Amazon.

Ok just checked. Amazon out to lunch at $133. Motion is $104 and Grainger is $100

[Dean2]

People will have sticker shock when the see the price of Devcon steel .

They will, but a one pound tub can do a lot of rifles. Even if you can only do 5 or 6 it works out to less than 20 bucks a gun.

[partsman]

My late brother and I used to bed rifles, experimented with products our body man father had, brother passed in 95, in all the years not one has failed.
Even did some with modern bedding materials, it is daunting starting out, but you get used to it.

[Duramaximos]

Anyone in south Calgary want to split a tub?

[Tscoot]

Has anyone tried the Devcon plastic steel liquid? Part number is 10210. I was wondering if it may be easier to work with than the putty. Or is it too runny?

[pikergolf]

Just my opinion, but I would be scared of it sagging because of it's lower viscosity. I have never had voids because of putty if that is what you are worried about.

[DLab]

To avoid potential voids/bubbles in the finished product even with putty use, apply bedding material to both mating surfaces instead of just the rifle stock area.

[Tscoot]

Yeah my worry was voids and with the putty not "squishing" out around the action due to the consistency of it. I was thinking that the liquid may be easier to apply but if it runs out it will be a waste of time.

[pikergolf]

The putty squishes out just fine. It is about like peanut butter, maybe a little stiffer.

[prarie_boy1]

I’ve had some issues with air bubbles when using marine Tex but zero issues with devcon and have bedded several rifles with 10110. I have a small electric buddy heater I put in front of the resin when I start the inletting process and it warms up the devcon nicely so it’s easy to handle. Once I measure out the proper ratio of hardener to epoxy I have a small piece of flat puck board I mix it on with a metal spatula and work it back and forth for some time tell its properly mixed. Once I have the epoxy laid out in the stock I put some on the receiver in areas it’s likely to have air pockets (behind recoil lug etc) I then take a heat gun and run it up and down the devcon in the stock for a few seconds before laying in the barrelled action. Works quite nicely and never had an issue. I got the heat gun tip from Bob Galloway and he certainly knows his way around bedding a rifle.

[Tscoot]

Thanks for the tips guys!

[Duramaximos]

Ive decided to place the barreled action into the bedding with minimal tension.
Will be threading the action screws slightly for the purpose of indexing only.

My question is, how do you avoid the screws pushing epoxy into the receiver threads?
I understand the screws and receiver should be liberally coated with release agent but still concerned about pushing a blob of epoxy into those threads.

[JBE]

You could use studs then instead of your screws.

[Dean2]

Ive decided to place the barreled action into the bedding with minimal tension.
Will be threading the action screws slightly for the purpose of indexing only.

My question is, how do you avoid the screws pushing epoxy into the receiver threads?
I understand the screws and receiver should be liberally coated with release agent but still concerned about pushing a blob of epoxy into those threads.

If you want it only for indexing get two pieces of threaded rod, or two long bolts and cut the heads off. Screw them into the action before setting it in place. I always tension the action with the action screws so I make sure the screw threads and the action threads are well waxed, as well as inside the action where the front screw comes into the lug raceway. I then plug the screw holes with Plasticine. This stops a lot of it but you do still get some coming through. Wait about 2 hours till it sets up a bit and just carefully remove it with a Popsicle stick and Hoppes 9.

[Duramaximos]

....Wait about 2 hours till it sets up a bit and just carefully remove it with a Popsicle stick and Hoppes 9.

Are you refering to the epoxy that might enter the lug race way?

[Dean2]

Are you refering to the epoxy that might enter the lug race way?

Yes. once it stiffens a bit I find it a whole lots easier to remove than when it is still really soft and just smears. Anywhere up to about 5 hours it is still quite pliable but nor smearish, if you know what I mean. I also usually crack the screws and run one at a time in and out to form threads in the Devcon. Makes taking them out when it is set up hard a whole bunch easier. I would do that with Studs as well, if I were using them.

Hoppes 9 on a paper towel is also the best I ever found for cleaning up Devcon while it is still real wet. Easily lifts and cleans leaving no Devcon residue.

[Duramaximos]

Thanks Dean.
Well...here goes nothing!
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220320/dbe557c04ba139095d9f6d47063f403f.jpg

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[Duramaximos]

No turning back now.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220320/6b4688e1cae8191a1a32eda0d41cabd0.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220320/6bc44b8b531f6e1b7bdadbca3d46894a.jpg

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[Dean2]

No turning back now.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220320/6b4688e1cae8191a1a32eda0d41cabd0.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220320/6bc44b8b531f6e1b7bdadbca3d46894a.jpg

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Looking good. I would clean up any overflow with a Popsicle stick and Hoppes while it is still easy to remove. Make sure you let it set at least a full 24 hours, better 48, before popping it out. you will get a much smoother finish. Guys are always worried about the gun being stuck in the stock and tend to want to pop them out early, resist the fear.:)

[Savage Bacon]

Does the 1lb tub last for a while after it's opened?

Where do you recommend buying it from? I assume it's the 10110 part # that you use?

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[Duramaximos]

Does the 1lb tub last for a while after it's opened?

Where do you recommend buying it from? I assume it's the 10110 part # that you use?

Sent from my SM-G970W using TapatalkBased on the job I just completed (my first) one tub will easily do 6 rifles. I mixed 72 grams but 60 would have been adequate.
I did not add pillars.

...I've read that it should last 5 years after opening.

[Savage Bacon]

Based on the job I just completed (my first) one tub will easily do 6 rifles. I mixed 72 grams but 60 would have been adequate.
I did not add pillars.

...I've read that it should last 5 years after opening.Thats good that it has a shelf life after opening. I'll pick some up after we move.

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[Duramaximos]

Couldn't resist the temptation any longer!
Took a few good hits with my palm but she broke loose easier than I expected.

The results are also much better than I expected. Silky smooth finish. Not quite as glassy as some of the pro jobs I've seen.
The parts fit together perfectly. Zero slop, wiggle, or wobble in any direction. Massive improvement over the loose fitting B&C stock.

Erring on the side of caution, I used about 25% more material than I needed to so the clean up might take slightly longer. Otherwise a complete success.

Thanks everyone.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220322/74340c2362ea1a48146a936802e8c078.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220322/49267c5c573d1a005321b446fedf75e7.jpg

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[Bushrat]

The results are also much better than I expected. Silky smooth finish. Not quite as glassy as some of the pro jobs I've seen.

The bedding will only be as 'glassy' as the surface of your receiver, Bedding should mirror the surface texture of the receiver, glassy looking bedding comes from shiny polished receivers. Your bedding looks good, Looks like it should being your receiver and barrel are matt bead blasted.

[Dean2]

Looks great, and particularly good for a first try. The gun will shoot significantly better now that it has a good tight fit to the stock.

[barsik]

great job. the only thing I could add is that bedding a wood stock one should only bed the recoil lug and the rear tang. bedding a wood stock for the full length of the action is just asking for trouble when dealing with moisture and humidity changes. just seal the wood as much as possible and bed where the tang and recoil lug are. the other point is that devcon 10110 makes for a perfect pillar by itself. just make sure to back the screws in and out completely a couple of times during the curing process. congratulations!!!!

[fps plus]

Ive decided to place the barreled action into the bedding with minimal tension.
Will be threading the action screws slightly for the purpose of indexing only.

My question is, how do you avoid the screws pushing epoxy into the receiver threads?
I understand the screws and receiver should be liberally coated with release agent but still concerned about pushing a blob of epoxy into those threads.

It is pretty difficult to keep epoxy out of the receiver if using the screws. It’s not a problem though. Simply wax the threads of the receiver ,and wipe a liberal amount of oil inside the receiver and chamber . Once the receiver screws are in a bit of epoxy will push up into the receiver , don’t touch it, let it cure for 3 or so hours until the epoxy gets rubbery then it can easily be broken out of the receiver

[tbrown]

Thinking about doing a bed job. I see lots guys use 10110 putty, but would 10120 liquid be better? I have some 10110 already at home. Thanks for any input


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[birdseye]

My Son is contemplating bedding one of his rifles,it took longer then normal to find a sub MOA recipe.Wondering if a rifle that shoots Sub MOA could lose some accuracy.Or is it a safe bet that it will hold the same or improve even more after being bedded and free floated ?. Hate to go ahead with bedding it if there is a chance of it opening up the accuracy.

[marky_mark]

Bedding shouldn’t Deminish accuracy
If you free float it, it might
But a properly bedded rifle should not shoot worse after it is done

[birdseye]

Thanks mark.

[fps plus]

As the saying goes “ if it ain’t broke don’t fix it .”
That being said it shouldn’t hurt accuracy but there is no guarantee .

[birdseye]

That is the issue,we have bounced it around lots,the accuracy is so good it is scary to change anything.We will def kick it around for a while.

[Duramaximos]

Thinking about doing a bed job. I see lots guys use 10110 putty, but would 10120 liquid be better? I have some 10110 already at home. Thanks for any input


Sent from my iPhone using TapatalkJust noticed no one responded to your question. Obviously I only have one job under my belt but I will say the consistency of 10110 made it very easy to work with. It stayed exactly where I put it until i was ready to mate up the parts. I think I would dread using something that might flow too easily.

FWIW I know Henry Remple uses Devcon Aluminum putty.

[jef612]

It is pretty difficult to keep epoxy out of the receiver if using the screws. It’s not a problem though. Simply wax the threads of the receiver ,and wipe a liberal amount of oil inside the receiver and chamber . Once the receiver screws are in a bit of epoxy will push up into the receiver , don’t touch it, let it cure for 3 or so hours until the epoxy gets rubbery then it can easily be broken out of the receiver

Or you can buy a spare set of action screws - then insert them into the bare action (no stock). Then cut the heads off of the screws with a dremel or grinder or hacksaw. When you mate your action and stock together during the bedding process, use surgical tubing or elastic band or a clamp of some sort to hold them together until the epoxy hardens.

Then separate the two, remove the "studs" or partial screws and reinstall using your original screws.

[DirtShooter]

Not to start a new thread

I have devcon branded release agent that I used when I bedded a vanguard a couple years ago. I dug my devcon materials out today because I have another rifle I want to work on and the release agent is expired by a couple years. Question is, would you still use it? Not really wanting to glue this action and stock together.

[pikergolf]

Not to start a new thread

I have devcon branded release agent that I used when I bedded a vanguard a couple years ago. I dug my devcon materials out today because I have another rifle I want to work on and the release agent is expired by a couple years. Question is, would you still use it? Not really wanting to glue this action and stock together.

Furniture wax or shoe polish work as well. If is leaves a slick finish I would assume it is still good.

[prarie_boy1]

as long as the catalyst isn't dried out and clumpy you should be ok Ive used out of date devcon a few times and turned out fine.

[DirtShooter]

Well, don't use old devcon if you really gotta struggle to mix it. I tried the older aluminum putty I had when I did my vanguard and it didn't work too well. The old expired release agent worked great A+ there. So I went about bought the steel putty because the aluminum putty was a fortune holy F.

At the beginning of covid I ordered a KS Arms barreled action in 6.5 needmore and bought a wildcat stock from Stuart. I had plans of having it all put together by a family friend that shoots F-class and builds his own rifles but never got around to arranging it so I figured I could do it myself and hey it's a fiberglass blank, any mistakes you can just sand and reapply epoxy or paint lol.

https://i.postimg.cc/NMQCwkx7/20230218-152953-resized.jpg
KS Arms Wolverine 2 Lug repeater and Stuarts KS Hunter lightweight with a couple QD sling studs because why not? And a used SA bottom metal.

https://i.postimg.cc/zBptDHtm/20230223-191229-resized.jpg
The new devcon was as smooth as butter, really made me happy after I took my dremel and removed all the old aluminum crap that didn't work out. I was tired of fighting action screws too so off to Fastenal and bought some 1/4x28 TPI 2.5" long bolts, chopped the heads and cut a slot for a flat head. In they went, in the action went and on went the tape. I wedged a popsicle stick in the barrel channel to center the barrel. The pillars in the stock must not have been perfectly straight or the channel wasn't even. Nonetheless it's centered now.
https://i.postimg.cc/Hnh6XD1B/20230224-151439-resized.jpg
Popped out great, next was cleaning it up with the dremel and files, drilling the screw holes out to remove any epoxy that made it's way down. I didn't take a picture of the final prepped stock but there wasn't a lot to do.
https://i.postimg.cc/D0ZCSfHS/20230224-181407-resized.jpg
Installed the TT Canada Special trigger and fit it up to make sure I removed enough material.
https://i.postimg.cc/XNHHTFBd/20230224-201922-resized.jpg
Next it's paint time. The white is actually a marine epoxy to add some grip to the otherwise smooth wildcat stock. Take some business cards of a company that wronged you and cover the bedding and spray n pray.
https://i.postimg.cc/X7rH3J9h/20230224-223141-resized.jpg
https://i.postimg.cc/htx2z5y1/20230225-221343-resized.jpg
https://i.postimg.cc/tC8rgj5g/20230225-221426-resized.jpg
And a final sponge paint like Manners. I might redo the sponge paint, I'll see how I feel but it's an easy enough task.

[JBE]

Nice job. That's a wildcat stock? Did you install the pillars?

[DirtShooter]

Nice job. That's a wildcat stock? Did you install the pillars?

Yes it's a wildcat stock and no it came with the pillars installed.

[HyperMOA]

Yes it's a wildcat stock and no it came with the pillars installed.

Why did you have electrician tape wrapped around your action into your bedding just ahead of the action? Or am I seeing things?

[DirtShooter]

Why did you have electrician tape wrapped around your action into your bedding just ahead of the action? Or am I seeing things?

There's tape around the first 1.5" of the barrel ahead of the action. Aside from that theres 4 passes of tape around the action to hold it in place.

[HyperMOA]

There's tape around the first 1.5" of the barrel ahead of the action. Aside from that theres 4 passes of tape around the action to hold it in place.

Yeah thats what I thought I saw. So why the tape around the barrel, imprinted into your bedding now?

[DirtShooter]

Yeah thats what I thought I saw. So why the tape around the barrel, imprinted into your bedding now?

I wish I had a proper reason to give you but I don't. It's just how I was shown and how my family friend bedded the rifle he built me and the rifles he built that put him on the Canadian F-Class team. If it shoots poorly I can always dremel it away but I haven't needed to do that on the gun he built me or the vanguard I bedded so far.

[HyperMOA]

I wish I had a proper reason to give you but I don't. It's just how I was shown and how my family friend bedded the rifle he built me and the rifles he built that put him on the Canadian F-Class team. If it shoots poorly I can always dremel it away but I haven't needed to do that on the gun he built me or the vanguard I bedded so far.

I am not criticizing just for the record, just curiosity is all. I thought you may have had a pro tip to share.

[DirtShooter]

I am not criticizing just for the record, just curiosity is all. I thought you may have had a pro tip to share.

I wish I remembered what he told me so I could share it tbh haha.

[Duramaximos]

I bedded about 1" of barrel on mine and it shoots great. See post #79.

I have a few bedded by Henry Remple too and they vary from 1/8" to 1.25" ahead of the recoil lug. They are all .75 moa hunting rifles.

[HyperMOA]

I bedded about 1" of barrel on mine and it shoots great. See post #79.

I have a few bedded by Henry Remple too and they vary from 1/8" to 1.25" ahead of the recoil lug. They are all .75 moa hunting rifles.

Im not sure if this is in response to me, or us about the bedding. I can see why you bed a piece of the barrel. But to use tape then removing the tape will create a gap, not a bed. Thats why I was asking. I don’t understand the reasoning.

[Bushrat]

Im not sure if this is in response to me, or us about the bedding. I can see why you bed a piece of the barrel. But to use tape then removing the tape will create a gap, not a bed. Thats why I was asking. I don’t understand the reasoning.

Old trick to keep barrel free floated in case bedding material squishes out ahead of the recoil lug, when the tape is removed the barrel is still freefloated, they went a little overboard with the bedding material, but more is better than not enough. Have freefloated a few by taping the barrel and bed it full length, you have a free floated barrel and perfect looking bedding if you leave the wrinkles out of the tape:) Anyways it doesn't have to be pretty to shoot and the bedding should be sound as long as everything was squared up right when it was put into bed, it should shoot fine

[Duramaximos]

Im not sure if this is in response to me, or us about the bedding. I can see why you bed a piece of the barrel. But to use tape then removing the tape will create a gap, not a bed. Thats why I was asking. I don’t understand the reasoning.Ah I see your point. I looked at the pictures more closely and I see the tape created a gap in the bedding under the barrel.
Completely different strategy from what I did.

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