Refinishing a synthetic/plastic stock

[Positrac]

I’m looking for some advice here.

I recently picked up an older A-Bolt II stainless stalker in 7mm WSM. The synthetic stock is in rough shape despite the rest of the rifle looking pretty good.

I’d like to refinish the stock. I’ve read what I can on painting the stock but there are conflicting reports as to how well off the shelf paint actually works as far as durability goes.

I’m also looking into having it hydro-dipped but I hear that can have issues with longevity too.

So, what would be considered the best way to go for something that doesn’t look too bad and lasts for more than a few seasons?

I’m not opposed to shipping it out and having the work done.

[spoiledsaskhunter]

had my tikka t3 hydro dipped about 8 years ago and it has been really good. i hunt dogs every winter and it rides in the truck with me every day....i'm careful with it, but wouldn't hesitate to do it again.

[obsessed1]

Good old krylon works great I have guns that are 12+ years..yes they do get scratched. A good clear coat over it helps alot. Nice thing is if it scratches you can just put on another coat. Cheap cheap cheap

[CNP]

The gun I use for hunting chickens on my ebike or quad or behind the seat of my truck. I did this with Krylon and a clearcoat 3 years ago:

https://i.imgur.com/sLJJvcD.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/WksfC59.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/tKtjHs3.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/AGNzEeG.jpg

[brewster29]

I have painted three Tikka tupperware stocks and a couple carbon/kevlar ones. On the Tikka I sand the mold parting lines off, scuff with fine scotchbrite, degrease with chlorinated brake cleaner, prime with Rustoleum plastic primer, paint and top coat with Rustoleum non slip clear which leaves a nice grippy texture. Let harden in a warm place for a few days. Mine are at three plus years and still look great. Pics attached is my Forbes 280.

[ghostguy6]

The main thing is your initial prep. You could use the best paint in the world and it wont stick if you use a crappy primer or if you leave some oil on the surface. For plastic parts you really need to sand the plastic to gain adhesion. Mould formed plastics usually contain a mould release that needs to be removed with solvents after you sand the surface. If ANY of the surface looks shiny you need to keep sanding. I have done several write ups on painting rifles. Try searching for them. I know a few of those threads went south and were deleted already so Im not doing a full how to again.

[Positrac]

I have painted three Tikka tupperware stocks and a couple carbon/kevlar ones. On the Tikka I sand the mold parting lines off, scuff with fine scotchbrite, degrease with chlorinated brake cleaner, prime with Rustoleum plastic primer, paint and top coat with Rustoleum non slip clear which leaves a nice grippy texture. Let harden in a warm place for a few days. Mine are at three plus years and still look great. Pics attached is my Forbes 280.

Thanks Brewster. I like the idea of the grippy texture.

I recently had a stock replaced by Browning when the Duratouch coating went bad on it. Browning replaces the Mountain TI stocks when the coating goes bad with a new Bell and Carlson stock then they have it hydro-dipped. The new stock has zero texture on it so while the thing looks beautiful it is very hard to hold onto. A grippy surface would be nice. I’m leaving this one alone for now but I have a couple other synthetic stocks I’d like to refinish.

[Positrac]

The main thing is your initial prep. You could use the best paint in the world and it wont stick if you use a crappy primer or if you leave some oil on the surface. For plastic parts you really need to sand the plastic to gain adhesion. Mould formed plastics usually contain a mould release that needs to be removed with solvents after you sand the surface. If ANY of the surface looks shiny you need to keep sanding. I have done several write ups on painting rifles. Try searching for them. I know a few of those threads went south and were deleted already so Im not doing a full how to again.

I think I’ve read just about every thread on here and a lot of other sites on the painting of plastic stocks. I think I have the process down. The issue I have with painting them is finding recommended paints up here in Northern Alberta. If it isn’t in Canadian Tire, Rona or Home Hardware then options are limited.

[CNP]

I think I’ve read just about every thread on here and a lot of other sites on the painting of plastic stocks. I think I have the process down. The issue I have with painting them is finding recommended paints up here in Northern Alberta. If it isn’t in Canadian Tire, Rona or Home Hardware then options are limited.

Krylon Fusion for plastic from Amazon: https://www.amazon.ca/s?k=krylon+fusion&crid=2TQI7WUBFLJ7T&sprefix=krylon+%2Caps%2C1044&ref=nb_sb_ss_ts-doa-p_7_7

[phenom0983]

I recognize this isn't the archery category, and I'll be starting a thread there as well, but I was wondering if anyone has painted an APA bow with their soft armour product on it.

Thanks!

[ghostguy6]

I think I’ve read just about every thread on here and a lot of other sites on the painting of plastic stocks. I think I have the process down. The issue I have with painting them is finding recommended paints up here in Northern Alberta. If it isn’t in Canadian Tire, Rona or Home Hardware then options are limited.

Try auto body supply stores or art shops or look up the brand of paint you want to find a retailer. There are tons of other options than hardware stores

[obsessed1]

Paint stores also stock spray cans..amazon is available for a last ditch effort as well

[marky_mark]

I would get it dipped and just touch up the clear coat every so often

[6.5 shooter]

had my tikka t3 hydro dipped about 8 years ago and it has been really good. i hunt dogs every winter and it rides in the truck with me every day....i'm careful with it, but wouldn't hesitate to do it again.

I also had a Tikka T3 hydro dipped. love it!

[Positrac]

I’m leaning towards having it hydro dipped.

I’ve contacted a couple companies that do it around Edmonton. They will prep and dip for $200 + tax. I’ll need to ship is both ways so for around $300 I could get the whole job done including prep and a matte clear over the dipped stock. Not cheap but if it turns out well and lasts then not bad either.

[Positrac]

Try auto body supply stores or art shops or look up the brand of paint you want to find a retailer. There are tons of other options than hardware stores

If I was down south the options would be limitless but up here in Fort Mac options are very much limited. Ordering paint online would probably be my best bet because I haven’t found anything suitable here yet.