Ski boat modifications

[D5boone]

Looking for experienced opinions. I currently have an 18 foot, fibreglass, open bow ski/runabout boat. I was looking at buying an aluminum fishing boat but looking at the prices of aluminum boats I am considering making some modifications to my current boat. First up would be an electric trolling motor. What thrust would I need to troll with a boat like this (2700lb)? And is it even feasible to be able to troll with a boat of this size with an electric motor. Then I would be interested in how to mount a set up like this without messing up the fibreglass, the overall look etc.. where do people typically mount the batteries etc.
Secondly I am considering modifying the open bow to more of a casting platform. Something I could interchange fairly easily. I’m thinking a marine plywood insert with a pedestal seat mount that I could interchange with the cushions used for skiing etc.

I would welcome suggestions, photos etc.

Thanks

[ricky8fish]

Hi you may be surprised how little power, thrust, is needed to move your boat when it calm with no wind. Add a light breeze and you will need a gas kicker on the back. In fact this the best option I have found with all the boats I have owned. In fact I now use a 2.5 Yamaha four stroke on the transom and seldom deploy the electric on the bow. It’s rarely calm enough.


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[SamSteele]

I would expect a 80lb 24V system would likely do what you want for the most part. The amount of wind/wave action will dictate how long the batteries will last and how fast you will be able to move. If you tend to fish in rougher conditions you may want to consider a 112lb 36v, but I suspect the 80lb would be sufficient and easier to find the space for 2 batteries vs 3.

You will also want to consider how high your bow sits when at rest in the water. Most boats around here require a 60 inch or 72 inch shaft length. You don't want to have the prop coming out of the water all the time if there is some wave action, so consider that. Conversely, a longer shaft may stick out over the gunwale, depending on how you end up mounting it.

MinnKota makes quite a few different mounts for bow mount electrics. I have seen some work without modifications on fiberglass boats. Others require a bunch of creative modifications.


SS

[58thecat]

I would expect a 80lb 24V system would likely do what you want for the most part. The amount of wind/wave action will dictate how long the batteries will last and how fast you will be able to move. If you tend to fish in rougher conditions you may want to consider a 112lb 36v, but I suspect the 80lb would be sufficient and easier to find the space for 2 batteries vs 3.

You will also want to consider how high your bow sits when at rest in the water. Most boats around here require a 60 inch or 72 inch shaft length. You don't want to have the prop coming out of the water all the time if there is some wave action, so consider that. Conversely, a longer shaft may stick out over the gunwale, depending on how you end up mounting it.

MinnKota makes quite a few different mounts for bow mount electrics. I have seen some work without modifications on fiberglass boats. Others require a bunch of creative modifications.


SS


This and toss in spot lock etc

Game changer depending on what you want out of a trolling motor.


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[ragweed]

I installed a 80lb 24v 60'' shaft Minnkota on my 17.5 open bow and it works wonderfully. I only wish I could have afforded the one with spot lock. Batteries have not been drained in a single day yet but have been pretty darn low a few times. A 60'' shaft is a must as I have had it fully extended on a windy day.
I put my batteries in the stern, under the splash well. I do have some challenges with weight distribution but I felt that was better than storing them in the open bow. More stability and less bouncing in the back. I never travel with the trolling motor mounted so the fact that it sticks out a little bit doesn't bother me. I simply installed a quick release plug and used a minnkota mounting bracket.
Although I don't have much to compare to, I feel like the trolling motor provides me excellent performance for a day of fishing. I'm glad I didn't go any smaller. That being said, it definitely needs to be charged after each day. Installed a Norco onboard charging system for that. Seems to work well.

This summer I also hope to build a platform to install a forward seat for fishing up front. It's an older boat so I have a few things that I want to improve/replace/upgrade.

[-JR-]

I had a 19 ft fibreglass Baylinner with an open bow also , and I was thinking the of the same thing, to make it flat across the seats . So I started just stand on top of the seats and started casting from there to see what it was like . It was ok until i got a fish ,as thats when I would step off the seat to the floor so it was easier to grab the fish or just take the pliers and unhook him when he was in the water. With a deck you need to get on your knees or use a long net
So i never did build it up .
I know have a 19 ft Lund fishing boat that has that front bow casting deck and I hate it . I just miss having a walk threw with no step that you can just walk threw while casting . I find with the walk threw with the two seats works out better for two people to sit ,one on each side ,while jigging for walleye .

[Walleyedude]

Good advice so far.

I think a lot depends on how seriously you intend to try fishing out of your runabout boat. Is it the odd day when it's nice out, or do you plan to use it often and head out in a walleye chop and get serious? There's pros and cons to everything, and no matter how hard you try, it'll never be as effective as a true fishing boat.

My first experience with an electric trolling motor was way back in the mid 90s. My dad mounted one of the first MinnKotas onto our 20' Bayliner sterndrive. It was a 12V model, with a 48" shaft, wired foot pedal only, mounted with a quick release plate that was bolted onto the bow. You had to lug the Deep Cycle battery in and out of the boat every time you wanted to use it. It just sat strapped onto the floor with some long battery cables. It was absolutely primitive compared to today's setups. You could really only fish when it was calm, and it was only good for about 1/2 a day depending on how fast you were going, but man, it was LIFE CHANGING!

If you're just looking to fish in fair weather in the mornings or evenings, you could get away with a very similar setup and get hours of enjoyment out of it.

I would agree with the others though, that if you're more serious than that, a 24V setup with a 60" shaft and spot lock capability is major improvement. The current quick release brackets are pretty unobtrusive, but it will be kind of annoying on the bow when you're just swimming and relaxing. Drilling some holes in the fiberglass is inevitable though. Finding a place to store and secure the batteries and an oboard charger will be the other challenge. (Lithium would be the ticket, maybe look at a single 24V Lithium?)

The bow platform can certainly be done. I've seen a couple that were really well designed (though I'm not sure how temporary or convenient they were to remove). It's gotta be stronger than you think to support the weight and the torque that gets put onto the seat base. There's more to it than a simple sheet of plywood. I wish I had more info, but I don't, do your homework on that one for sure.

One word of advice - do NOT go with the sterndrive/outboard cavitation plate mounted electric motors. They're nearly useless in a chop, and boat control is a major issue. Trying to use that limited thrust, from the rear of the boat, cranking on a steering wheel behind the windshield, is enough to drive you nuts unless it's flat calm and you just want to go straight...

[ragweed]

Speaking of boat control....
I have to add that boat control with the bow mount troller is a breeze once you get used to it. I have the wired put pedal stationed right under my steering wheel. Once I have a good angle and speed, I simply use the steering wheel to adjust. No mucking with the footpedal much at all. Waaaay easier than constantly adjusting the footpedal to turn. Others may think that this is obvious....but when I first installed it, I was always using the footpedal. It's hard to get the minute adjustments you want because it is so responsive. Find a comfortable angle to go straight....then use the steering wheel to turn.

Note: You could always go with a gps model and program a route as well. That's just too far above my pay grade. lol

[mlee]

I was in the same boat as you literally.
I did my casting deck from 3/4" treated with linseed oil then covered in standard outdoor carpet. Total cost in with the seat mount was about $200. Takes me 15 minutes to swap back to seats. I just built a cardboard template...cut the wood on the large side and took about 3 test fits to get it perfect.
I don't run a bow mount trolling motor but I'd go no less than 80lb 24v.
I have a cooler converted to a live well should I need it that slides under the casting deck just perfect.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230417/c4f194c4a259346b61e269248b277f3a.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230417/6c7634c0934655bb3ad74a839117da73.jpg

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[D5boone]

Thanks for the feedback and photos. This gives me a lot to start with. A bit of research and I’ll have to get creative.

[EZM]

I think the advice so far is good. I totally agree a 80lb/24v thrust/volt is plenty. It's also important top buy a long enough shaft as there is nothing worse than being in a little chop and the motor is bobbing in and out of the water (bad for the motor and bad for boat control).

Depending on "how handy" you are, you can find a suitable location and modify the glass - cut out the hump and re glass a flat mounting spot backed by two layers of marine ply underneath, with through bolts imbedded and the then refinish the area to your liking.

Now if this is a $100K+ ski boat - send it out to be done. If it's something that does not need to be factory perfect - that's how I would do it. Lots of great you tube videos on doing fiberglass and marine plywood jobs.

Total boat makes some high quality products.