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View Full Version : Your Wall Tent Advice Please!


The Fisherman Guy
06-29-2010, 03:23 PM
I decided to sell my trailer and go the wall tent route instead.

Using the cash I sold the trailer for, I have a decent budget for a quality wall tent with a tarp, and hopefully a porch.
I am curious to know what you have to suggest, or who I should I consider as a manufacturer. Looking at many of the websites out there, the price differs considerably, mainly dependent on location. I am not focused on price, as much as I am on ensuring what I purchase is a quality product that my friends and I can use on a regular basis for a few years.

Anything I should be avoiding? 10 oz treated fabric, or 14 oz natural fabric?

Please, any useful advice will be put to great use!

sheephunter
06-29-2010, 03:29 PM
I just picked up a Deluxe wall tent with the internal frame and from all the tents I've been in, this one impresses me the most. It's super easy and fast to set up and comes with all kinds of great features.

http://i61.photobucket.com/albums/h44/sheephunterab/DSC_0002-1.jpg

http://i61.photobucket.com/albums/h44/sheephunterab/DSC_0001.jpg

http://i61.photobucket.com/albums/h44/sheephunterab/DSC_0003-2.jpg

The Fisherman Guy
06-29-2010, 03:46 PM
Ooooooooooooo.... I have been eyeing that one up with the porch, thanks for providing the better photo's TJ.

How was delivery time?

Did you also pick up a tarp? I can't seem to wrap my head around the idea of polyurethane rattling away in the wind... A treated heavy canvas would be ideal. Does your tent need the extra barrier, eventhough it is treated for fire/water/mildew?


Did you purchase the full frame kit, or just the angle kit?

sheephunter
06-29-2010, 03:51 PM
The tent actually came with a poly tarp. Truthfully, I've never been in a wall tent that couldn't benefit from a poly tarp.

Delivery time was under a month and he shipped it on the bus. I got the poles and angles and it fits like a glove. Overall a great guy to deal with.

BrownBear416
06-29-2010, 04:15 PM
http://www.edmontontent.com/EdmontonTent/ProductGalleries/OutfitterTents/tabid/81/Default.aspx

I had ETAA make me a custom one a few years ago and I am very happy with it.Great quality and very tough.They are not cheap though.

Deluxe wall tents are very nice as well..

Even though the canvas is treated I agree with Sheep on the use of a tarp.The more tarps the better on top imo means the less chance of getting wet.

I bought a 12x14 canvas tarp from Norseman to use as a floor and I'm good to go.

Wish I had poles though..

Are those 5 foot walls TJ?

sheephunter
06-29-2010, 04:31 PM
Ya, they are 5' walls...tons of interior space.

Halfton
06-29-2010, 05:02 PM
I bought a Deluxe Wall tent last year too 12x14....didn't go with the windows but did get the internal frame and am very happy with it.....Easy as pie to set up, no messing cutting trees for poles and easy to do by yourself if you need to. The porch was great for cooking under as we had a lot of rain last fall on our hunt. I did put an old tarp over it and we never had any water leakage issues.
Jim

http://i288.photobucket.com/albums/ll198/Halfton49/P1010494.jpg

http://i288.photobucket.com/albums/ll198/Halfton49/P1010487.jpg

http://i288.photobucket.com/albums/ll198/Halfton49/P1010503.jpg

rookiemoosehunter
06-29-2010, 05:14 PM
I ordered a new wall tent, stove and angle kit for the internal frame from the wall tent shop in Idaho www.walltentshop.com. The owner (I believe his name was Richard) was very helpful and with the exchange rates it was quite a bit cheaper than Edmonton Tent & Awning.

I have noticed that they have since then set up a shipping center in BC now for Canadian Orders,so I am unsure of there prices.
http://www.canvastentshop.ca/

They also have a tonne of info on there site in regards to wall tents from selection to how to care for them.

switchsl
06-29-2010, 05:22 PM
I have always been a fan of RK lodges canvas. They deliver in 2 weeks UPS to your door, and I have never known anybody to have trouble with them. Mine lasted for somewhere around 10 years I think, and was put up, taken down at least a hundred times, lived in summer and winter for ten days at a time sometimes more. It eventually got worn and thin above the stove and finally tore, so I retired it.

rookiemoosehunter
06-29-2010, 05:22 PM
One thing I would recomend is a rain fly if you are going to an internal frame as you will get a "wicking" effect along the frame with alot of rain and snow.
We experienced this a bit last year when we had a few days of wet snow.

pseelk
06-29-2010, 05:26 PM
I purchased a 10x12x5 from campers villiage about 15 yrs ago 10 oz cotton on walls 20 oz on roof and have never had to use a tarp on it .Hasnt leaked even once in all these years.Just bought a frame for it and that is the only way to go,wish I would have bought the frame years ago.One more thing,I use one of those eco fans that do not require power or batteries.simply set it on the stove and distributes the heatthe entire night works great,may be why I never get any moisture in it.

sharpstick
06-29-2010, 10:34 PM
Katts69 on here sells tents and stoves. www.cylinderstoves.com
I beleive. bought a 15 X 15 with internal frame and cylinder stove from him a few years ago and it's been awesome. I put a 20 X 30 tarp over it, there's a couple feet of over hang on the sides to keep gear dry and a 15' porch for gear, cooking etc. we even used it for a garage this year for the quads when it was snowing...

Good luck
Sharpstick

NFTrapper
06-30-2010, 01:16 PM
Don't mean to hijack the thread, but I picked up a used tent last year and have a trip planned for this fall, but have never set one up. I don't have an internal pole set so will be using the wood poles. Any advice for a first timer?

I have looked at a lot of the pictures on this site and think I have a good idea where to start but any advice would be greatly accepted. Thanks.

The Fisherman Guy
06-30-2010, 02:03 PM
A very awesome forum member lent me his wall tent last fall for my deer camp, I soon learned that setting one up with lodgepole pines - as a first timer - was more of a challenge than I thought!

Take a look around some of the wall tent sites, I believe an angle kit for an internal frame would be a great investment in your purchase. That way you can cut EMT to make your own poles, and you can use it with or without the frame.

honda450
06-30-2010, 02:14 PM
Don't have a wall tent but what is the advantage or disadvantage of having the chimney coming out of the wall compare to the roof? I can see rain or snow being a factor from the roof. but then being out the wall looks as if you have to brace it on the outside to make that bend. Just wondering.

Both nice looking tents fellers.

sheephunter
06-30-2010, 02:17 PM
Don't have a wall tent but what is the advantage or disadvantage of having the chimney coming out of the wall compare to the roof? I can see rain or snow being a factor from the roof. but then being out the wall looks as if you have to brace it on the outside to make that bend. Just wondering.

Both nice looking tents fellers.

Getting the chimney away from the tent results in less spark holes in the canvas plus on very tall tents you can get away with less stove pipe.

honda450
06-30-2010, 02:27 PM
Getting the chimney away from the tent results in less spark holes in the canvas plus on very tall tents you can get away with less stove pipe.

So your saying out of the wall is better? What about the wind factor?

May just own a wall tent one day so it would be good to know.

Bassett
06-30-2010, 02:40 PM
also stay away from relite tents I know montana canvas makes them... Bass proshops sells them, for a 12x14 they weigh at 25lbs were a regular tent should be 80lbs + . . .

Halfton
06-30-2010, 03:34 PM
Yup setting up a wall tent using lodge pole is a pain, especially if your alone...can be done but it takes a lil ingenuity. I saw a good thread on here last year about guys using rachet straps across the top of the tent instead of a ridge pole...looks like a good solution.
As you can see in the pics of my new tent there is a slight disadvantage to having the stove come out the side as opposed to the top in that the stove pipe doesn't support itself....Live and learn...this year I will just carry a long piece of re-bar and some clamps.
Jim

sheephunter
06-30-2010, 03:39 PM
As you can see in the pics of my new tent there is a slight disadvantage to having the stove come out the side as opposed to the top in that the stove pipe doesn't support itself....Live and learn...this year I will just carry a long piece of re-bar and some clamps.
Jim

My tent actually came with a support for just that purpose but you raise a good point. Have you ever had any draft issues with your upward section so short?

The Fisherman Guy
06-30-2010, 03:48 PM
If I remember correctly, the proper calculation for adequate air flow from a woodstove is that no more than 1/3 of the total pipe length can be horizontal.


ex: If your horizontal section is 4 feet, then you will require at least 8-9 feet of vertical pipe, for a total of 12-13 ft of stovepipe.

I have a woodstove in my ice fishing shack, and my lack of draft problems comes from the swivel top portion that does not allow any wind to blow directly into the stove pipe, creating backflash.

sheephunter
06-30-2010, 03:54 PM
If I remember correctly, the proper calculation for adequate air flow from a woodstove is that no more than 1/3 of the total pipe length can be horizontal.


ex: If your horizontal section is 4 feet, then you will require at least 8-9 feet of vertical pipe, for a total of 12-13 ft of stovepipe.

I have a woodstove in my ice fishing shack, and my lack of draft problems comes from the swivel top portion that does not allow any wind to blow directly into the stove pipe, creating backflash.

Ya, that's why I was asking as it looks like hafton is using,. well, half of that. lol

A few people have told me that getting the pipe away from the tent reduces the need for as much height on the chimney. Just bwondering what halfton had experienced.

sheepguide
06-30-2010, 04:42 PM
For the guys asking about using wood poles here is a good alternative. We always carry a 2" ratchet strap(a pretty long one) that we use for a ridge pole. Works great and never breaks under extreme snow falls. We then just cut some 5'(or what ever height your walls are) poles that hold the walls. Works awesome. A light chain and a cable comealong also works good for a ridge pole.
Im also with the guys that havent had to use the tarps on the roof. If the tent is good quality and treated with good water treat that is also fire retardent you should never have leaks.
The only time I used a tarp was one year on a late Nov. elk hunt and that was only because it was an insulated tarp to help keep some heat in.

Here is a set up with poles that kept us dry for over 60 days straight one year.
23900
SG

Walleyes
06-30-2010, 05:32 PM
Nice looking tents boys..

I have one comment well I guess its an opinion and that is regarding the placement of the pipe hole..

Through extensive experience in the matter I totally dislike a wall exit. I have owned and or slept in about every configuration there is and for my preference there is no better than a roof exit by the door. The problem we have found over the years is keeping a wall pipe secure. It has happened more than once that we have come back from a long days hunt only to find that the wind has blown over the pipe and we have quite the mess. Now save the speeches about tying or securing them up,, I have tried it all.. Its just a matter of physics,, the simpler the better.

Halfton
06-30-2010, 07:55 PM
My tent actually came with a support for just that purpose but you raise a good point. Have you ever had any draft issues with your upward section so short?

Sheep, I sure could of used used another length of pipe on it....It only got smokey on us once or twice when the fire wasn't quite burning hot enough yet to have warmed the stove up. As you can see I never thought of a support for it until it was to late.......I am just going to use some re-bar this year and make an adjustable L leg for it.
Jim

gravedigger
06-30-2010, 09:08 PM
Walleyes Nice looking tents boys..

I have one comment well I guess its an opinion and that is regarding the placement of the pipe hole..

Through extensive experience in the matter I totally dislike a wall exit. I have owned and or slept in about every configuration there is and for my preference there is no better than a roof exit by the door. The problem we have found over the years is keeping a wall pipe secure. It has happened more than once that we have come back from a long days hunt only to find that the wind has blown over the pipe and we have quite the mess. Now save the speeches about tying or securing them up,, I have tried it all.. Its just a matter of physics,, the simpler the better.

X 2...A couple of my buddies would agree to, they dam near didn't make it out of their tent. The stove pipe was knock over in the middle of a windy night...What do you figure Skinny?

Skinnydipper
06-30-2010, 10:44 PM
Cough....cough...hack...hackkk....what was that Digger?

Ya what he said. It can be eternally catastrophic to have a poorly supported side exit stack. Luckily i only suffered minor brain damage and could still carry on a career as a welder! LOL:sEm_oops2:

kaleh01
07-01-2010, 09:21 AM
Last season I purchased a cabela's Alaknak 12x12 tent with the extended porch, removeable floor and roof protector ring. We put a Four Dog wood stove in it and couldn't be happier. For a two man hunting party and all your gear it is amazing. It survived a hail storm that wiped out 3 RV's near us without even a drop of rain inside or any torn seams.

Search out the "let's see your hunting camp" thread, my tent has pictures posted around page 7 or 8. It's the one with the Ranger 6x6. I really look forward to taking this tent out this fall as I added a set of cabela's bunkbed cots to accomodate another person without losing floor space.

Total package was around $1600 for all poles, ropes, floor, fire ring and porch. $600 for the stove from the states and I will never go another route! My opinion, it's the best of the best, just wish I went one size bigger.

lead chucker
07-05-2010, 08:24 PM
Don't mean to hijack the thread, but I picked up a used tent last year and have a trip planned for this fall, but have never set one up. I don't have an internal pole set so will be using the wood poles. Any advice for a first timer?

I have looked at a lot of the pictures on this site and think I have a good idea where to start but any advice would be greatly accepted. Thanks.

I use a ratchet strap on my tent instead off the top pole between two trees if there available, its lighter and you dont have to hunt for poles , and then just pack aluminum colapsible poles for the walls..

BEL
07-06-2010, 11:05 PM
Leadchucker, what exactly is a rachet strap?. I think I know but would like more info. Can you get them 30 feet long? Can you supply a pic? Where to get them? BEL

Halfton
07-07-2010, 12:45 PM
Leadchucker, what exactly is a rachet strap?. I think I know but would like more info. Can you get them 30 feet long? Can you supply a pic? Where to get them? BEL

Bel, From the pics I saw of guys using rachet straps....they use ropes tied say, 8 feet up in trees at either end....then use a rachet strap in the middle to tighten them snuggly and tie off the tent to it....no ridge pole.
You can pick up rachet straps of just about any size and length you want at most hardware stores.
There was a thread on here last year, I think that had some good pics...maybe some of those guys could repost the pics of their tents using them. :sign0085:

Jim

alcesalces4
07-07-2010, 02:42 PM
I had a cylinder stove tent and now own a larger deluxe wall tent model. The cylinder stove tent came as a great package with three bags for the frame and another for pegs and tie downs and a few other odds and ends. The deluxe wall tent came with a single bag for the frame and it did not even fit the porch frame plus the zipper was crap and broke on the first trip. It did not come with pegs or tie down ropes. Also I prefer the more traditional entrance to double zipper door that the deluxewall tent has. Metal frame vs aluminum might be a concern as well. I have both and they both have their advantages and disadvantages. Overall i have been very happy with the quality of both tents.

The Fisherman Guy
07-07-2010, 03:33 PM
Thank you for all of your helpful advice fellas.

I decided on a 14 x 16 ft Deluxe Model from Deluxe Wall Tents out of Sidney, BC. Funny enough, I spent some of my highschool years there and my paper route included the street that their factory is on.

I appreciate all the PM's, and posting of your pics in this thread. I am very much looking forward to getting it out in Elk country for a scouting trip at the end of the month, and again for a Coho trip up in Kitimat at the end of August.

I agree with TJ; Perry was a good guy to deal with, no bs, no upselling, and straight to the point.

Sooner
07-07-2010, 11:30 PM
I have done the exterior pole set up for years, cut poles, tie them up, get the angles one slides out and do it all over again, lots of work. Two yrs ago I bought a internal pole set from campers village. Under 300 bucks for a 12x14 tent, 5 ft walls. Best investment ever, I can set it up my self in under a hour, had a foot of wet snow in late oct on the roof when we went to take it down. No problem. I did brace the ridge pole from the inside with chain link fence poles. Buy a internal pole set, you wont be dissapointed and its nice to hang stuff from the pipes to dry.

209x50
07-08-2010, 06:30 AM
Thank you for all of your helpful advice fellas.

I decided on a 14 x 16 ft Deluxe Model from Deluxe Wall Tents out of Sidney, BC. Funny enough, I spent some of my highschool years there and my paper route included the street that their factory is on.

I appreciate all the PM's, and posting of your pics in this thread. I am very much looking forward to getting it out in Elk country for a scouting trip at the end of the month, and again for a Coho trip up in Kitimat at the end of August.

I agree with TJ; Perry was a good guy to deal with, no bs, no upselling, and straight to the point.
I went with the 14x20 with the 7' porch from Perry as well. I'm hoping to get it out on the long weekend for a shakedown cruise. It sure went up easy in the driveway.

alpineguy
07-11-2010, 10:15 PM
Just got back from 10 days in Northern Sask. fishing and was reading some of the threads from the past few days. Came across this one and here is my opinion based on experiences and information gathered.
Don't like wall exit chimney holes as any elbows are kreosote traps and horizontal runs can create drafting issues. Also, having your chimney higher than the tent (vertically set) will create far less sparks on your tent roof.
The seams in the roof of SH's tent run horizontally which interrups the flow of water and can possibly cause a leak.
I don't like external window covers as if it starts raining in the night you have to go outside to close them.
Zippered doors can be somewhat finicky if sides are pegged slightly out from vertical, I prefer flaps with good buckles inside and out.24220

24221
Frames are great if you aren't packing with horses.
Good fabric makes your tent good. Consider weight and quailty.
Never waterproof a tent with any other product than what is recomended by the manufacturer of the material as you can nullify the fire resistant nature of the fabric.
Are there external grommets to tie tent to pole frame if need be?
A good tent should never leak and adding a poly tarp to the roof creates a moisture trap.
How does the supplier warranty their tents. Are they local? Do you have to pay shipping costs? What is the turn around time on repairs? Where was it manufactured, China?

Just my opinion.

BEL
07-11-2010, 10:38 PM
Thanks Halfton, I got the picture about the use of the rachet. Great idea. Will use it next fall. BEL

Albertadiver
07-11-2010, 10:58 PM
We expect to see pics of your walltent there ThefishermanGuy!

nimrod
07-11-2010, 11:08 PM
Check out kifaru.net, their tipi tents are great, no side poles, only one up the middle, with stove hole, can get liner, very very light and water proof, no floor but when your on a cot, all I have is tyvek for the floor around my bed, or as my ground sheet.

Some pro's and con's for each tent type.

Tipi is what I use, lots of sizes to choose from.

matathonman
07-12-2010, 01:29 AM
Don't mean to hijack the thread, but I picked up a used tent last year and have a trip planned for this fall, but have never set one up. I don't have an internal pole set so will be using the wood poles. Any advice for a first timer?

I have looked at a lot of the pictures on this site and think I have a good idea where to start but any advice would be greatly accepted. Thanks.


All I can say is when you set it up using wood don't set it on the edge of a slash. I camped in the same spot every year and it was great untill they logged it! The following year I camped the same spot and in the middle of the night my whole tent fell backwards because of a huge windstorm. Thank god the stove was half way out and didn't cause a fire! Wood poles work great but don't ptich camp where it's windy! Wood poles are quick and easy but you will need a wind break.

sheepguide
07-12-2010, 08:47 AM
Don't like wall exit chimney holes as any elbows are kreosote traps and horizontal runs can create drafting issues. Also, having your chimney higher than the tent (vertically set) will create far less sparks on your tent roof.
The seams in the roof of SH's tent run horizontally which interrups the flow of water and can possibly cause a leak.


Very good points. Good observation on the seam direction. First tent ive seen with horizontal seams on it.

As with the stove pipes another thing to note is that most guys when using the wall exit pipe hole they just support the horizontal pipe. That is a must but the pipe will also rotate at both 90deg elbows so unless tied or secured with screws the pipe call rotate and fall even with an upright support below the horizontal section of pipe.
SG

NCC
07-13-2010, 08:42 AM
also stay away from relite tents I know montana canvas makes them... Bass proshops sells them, for a 12x14 they weigh at 25lbs were a regular tent should be 80lbs + . . .

What don't you like about Relite? It should be the answer for pack trips.

alpineguy
07-13-2010, 12:25 PM
Relite has virtually no thermal value and does not breathe. My ATA 12x14 only weighs 54 lbs (Sunforger 10 oz. material).

Ice Fishing Maniac
07-13-2010, 12:47 PM
Our hunting group was just 2-3 guys, now it 7 without the kids.

My tent previously used was a 14x16x5 walls- great tent from Edmonton Tent & Awning with internal aluminum frame. Worked great for years. Just made a fly with heavy poly for the front. s of 2 years ago, we odered a new 16x20x5 walls with a 8' porch extension from Deluxe Walls tents......LOVE IT.

With more guys and for 7-10 days hunting...tons of room.

When the kids start coming out we may need the old tent.


Only way to go!!

Pwhitehead
07-15-2010, 04:38 PM
1. Good quality canvas tents whether 8oz or 10oz are mostly made from 100% cotton, marine grade. The newer methods of weaving work well 99% of the time without adding a treatment to the roof exterior. The great thing about the marine grade is that it is waterproof, breathable, FR to Canvas Product International 1984 standard and mildew resistant. The downside is that if you are inside during a downpour resist the temptation to run your finger down the seams because they will most probably start to leak where you had you pinky. The marine grade also gives you some UV inhibitors also.
You should not have to use the polytarp trick if your canvas is good quality. Alpineguy is quite right, the polytarp will stop your natural cotton fabric from breathing. The human body give up about 1 pint of water vapour every 6 hrs. If you are closed up in the tent and have a tarp laying over and on top of the canvas it will trap the moisture inside and you will wake up with condensation dripping down on you.
After market waterproofing is a bit of a gimmick. All of it now is water based silicone polymer. Be careful and follow good instruction on suitable products because some of them will coat your canvas and stop it from breathing. You end up with a form of plastic bag or polytarp syndrome.
If your tent doesn't come equipped with a floor it is a one idea to use a poly tarp for your floor if you like as long as it isn't slippery. The reason for that is that it will stop ground moisture, especially in grassed areas from coming up into the living quarters and creating too much vapour for the canvas to handle or vent effectively.
If you absolutely need to have a vapour impermeable tarp over the roof ensure that it stands off the actual canvas roof by a few inches. That way the vapour can vent out through the natural cotton fabric, condense on the inside of the tarp and run down and drip onto the area beyond the wall roof junction.
2. Some info on Fire Retardency (FR) CPI 84. This is a voluntary industry standard for small tents. It doesn't mean the tent is Fire proof, just FR resistant at the time of sale...Once in use the FR rating is not a guarantee of anything
3. Alpineguy's advise about the chimney outlets going verticle is good.
I spent 17 years as the tech authority for the CF tents/shelters. We made the mistake of trying to perfect the wall chimney opening concept for the Cdn Rangers...didn't work well at all.

Tailor
07-21-2010, 02:09 PM
Northwest Shelters Your “one-stop-shop” Selection of your choice of Canvas Wall Tents. From our standard designs to your custom orders there tents are your home away from home.

http://northwestshelters.com

Check them out quality product at a fair price.