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SNAPFisher
08-31-2010, 08:48 AM
Last week I stopped thinking about going to BC and made it happen. Packed up the RV and headed out to Terrace on Wednesday morning. The plan was to stay a week and make it back on the following Wednesday. I’ve never been to Northern BC and have had some interest in the Skeena and tributaries for some time. Printed off the location of a couple of local tackle shops and reports on 5 of the local rivers and took that along.

Trip started off very uneventful. The section past Jasper to McBride was pretty spectacular. The next section to Prince George is also quite amazing as beautiful rivers and lakes begin to appear.

The section after Prince George is slower going with lots of hills, winding highway, small communities and lots of great lakes to be seen from the highway. About 40kms out of Prince George the RV began acting up. On one of the hills it started chugging away and almost stopped on me. I had to pull over in a not so convenient area and let the semi barreling down on me squeak by. After a brief stop the RV started up and seemed fine. Made it all the way to Smithers. The RV did have the same issue again several times. Thought I would stop for the night and see how it was in the morning.

In the morning, made it about 35 kms up the highway but it took an hour. The RV could hardly climb an ant hill at that point without almost stalling. So, pulled over and thought about the best course of action. I was really tempted to try and make it to Terrace but at the current rate of progress it would have taken most of the day. Grudgingly decided to turn around and limp it back to Smithers.

First place, owner is not in until the next day. No one else there knows about older vehicles this one being a 1987 Ford Econoline. Next place, one week before he can even have a look. Third place, business called OK Tire and luckily they can their guy on it right away. For the morning I hang out at OK Tire plotting over maps of the region and fishing reports – I’m aching to get to Terrace and see the Skeena. About noon time the word comes that the fuel system is the issue and likely the fuel valve. They are going to have to order parts from Edmonton….sigh.

One thing that I did make a note of on my way past Smithers was the great looking canyon fishing on the Bulkley River. Called up the only car rental place in town. Luckily their only vehicle for rent was an early return. Turns out to be a fully loaded Jeep Commander:
Rental jeep and the broken RV
http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a117/APetesky/BCVacation036.jpg

I don’t know if any of you have seen or have the latest navigation systems. I was spoiled!
http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a117/APetesky/BCVacation039.jpg

A little built in satellite radio for company.
http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a117/APetesky/BCVacation040.jpg

So, head back up the highway with the rental to fish some spots on the Bulkley. Fished a great run at a place called Trout Creek.
http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a117/APetesky/BCVacation041.jpg

Managed one hit on a fly called the Purple Tiger that I tied up. Did see several others around me land some pink and coho on hardware.

Moved further up the highway to a great canyon that I spotted early that morning. The run starts at some falls that narrow into a canyon before exiting out the other side. I was interested in the middle section where there appeared to be some calmer water.

Head of the run with the falls.
http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a117/APetesky/BCVacation052.jpg

Middle section…mmmmmmmmmmmmm….fishy!
http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a117/APetesky/BCVacation054.jpg

Managed to find a way down. Started fishing and within about 15 minutes I witnessed by first run of salmon headed up river. I watched the school of about 30 salmon swim by my feet and head up – looked to be pinks and coho. It was a pleasure just seeing them. Often I would catch myself just watching them. I have to admit though it was fun to watch it did become a bit disenchanting when I did put my hook in front of them only to see it ignored time and time again.

After a couple of hours and many tried flies I had some follow ups on clousers. I finally had a male pink hit a lime clouser just a few feet out. I watched as it hit and then spit it quickly. As it started to fall down again though a huge shape exploded from the bottom and came up and grabbed the clouser. Set the hook and the fish rolled on its side. I could clearly see the pink line along the length of the fish as well as the tell tale reddish cheeks – my first steel head! The fish took off into the current and mach speed. Saw my backing in short order…then saw half my backing…then a quarter left…oh oh. I put some pressure on the fish but could quickly tell that the 10wt – 9 foot rod was not a great match to a fish of this strength with current on its side. Held the fish up with only a dozen or so raps of backing left. Finally pulled the hook out of its mouth…but at least I got my gear back and a great memory. This steelhead and the others I saw swimming around were all huge. About twice the size of most of the salmon. Amazing specimens out there.

Headed back to OK Tire before closing to find out how things went. Part from Edmonton was to arrive Friday morning and “should” be good to go by 10 a.m. Took off Friday morning again in the rental and fished South of Smithers at a place where the Telkwa River enters the Bulkley. Managed only a small river fish that looked like a cross between a sauger and a bass….hard to describe. By noon I was back at OK Tire only to see their mechanic still working on it. Pretty much a low point at this time. I suspected that the news would not be good and that the chances of seeing the Skeena was disappearing. By 5 p.m. that was confirmed by the mechanic. He didn’t manage to get the part and felt that fuel pump was also going. That part would take another 6 days….their best advice to me was to cut the trip short and hope to get back home before it all went.

So what did I do? Well, I didn’t go onto Terrace but I did head back up the highway to fish the Bulkley before heading back. Got back to canyon spot and hooked up several times on the clouser but lost the fish each time on jumps and LDRs. Finally connected on a beautiful coho that jumped about 7 times and gave a great fight.
http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a117/APetesky/BCVacation042.jpg

About the time I landed the fish and kept it, a family of 2 kids and mom and pop came to fish. I gave up the spot and pointed out the current and slower spots to fish. The salmon put on a great show for the kids with lots of them running near shore and some great jumps from huge Chinook that were nearing the end as they were pretty either a dark purple to claret in color.

Things were not all peachy though. In about the middle of it a jet boat fires out at the end of the canyon and pulls in a circle net. There are literally a ton of salmon caught inside. One of the kids asks his parents why they were using nets. The explanation was awkward at best. I exchanged some glances with the father but it was pretty obvious that the explanation of “special rights” for others was totally lost on the kids. I could see the disappointment in their faces.

Every half hour that net was pulled – 12 hours a day – 7 days a week. On the other end of the canyon as the salmon worked their way up to the falls where two fish tunnels provided an easier way for the salmon to get up river. Unfortunately the end was a pool where a person would stand above with a salmon net and net out the bigger ones. The fish were then taken up to a tub and measuring table. Ones that didn’t fit the bill were mercilessly chucked into a metal gutter that put the fish out the other end up river. Some swam away…some went on their side and went back over the falls and didn’t swim again. The average take of the two netters was about 60 salmon per hour – 12 hours a day – 7 days a week. With the boat and net at entrance of the canyon and the two “native” netters at the other end where the falls are they literally had the fish coming and going. It is hard to describe it in any justice here. It was something to see it in action. Very sad, very disappointing. And to think that this is only one spot on one particular river. Sorry to get off on a tangent but this part did stick with me.

Pic of the head of the falls with the harvesting in action. You can see the fish tunnel with the metal gutter at the end of it for the fish that are “rejects”.
http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a117/APetesky/BCVacation023.jpg

http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a117/APetesky/BCVacation024.jpg

That evening I tied up a few of these based on how popular the clouser seemed to be with the fish:
http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a117/APetesky/BCVacation014.jpg

to be continued...

SNAPFisher
08-31-2010, 08:48 AM
Headed back early in the morning before the native fish factory started up. Fishing was off the charts good! Had a hit right away and lost that one. I did manage a beautiful pink and 8.5 lb coho. Hooked up and lost another dozen though. I was done by 9 a.m. and was very satisfied to head back home.

A simply beautiful early morning.
http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a117/APetesky/BCVacation020.jpg

Nice pink but an even nicer coho.
http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a117/APetesky/BCVacation019.jpg

Back in business but fall time sure arrives early on those parts.
http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a117/APetesky/BCVacation044.jpg

http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a117/APetesky/BCVacation045.jpg

http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a117/APetesky/BCVacation046.jpg

http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a117/APetesky/BCVacation043.jpg

Pic of the first coastal mountains that I was trying to get to.
http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a117/APetesky/BCVacation030.jpg

http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a117/APetesky/BCVacation031.jpg

Lakes like these are all along the highway. From what I can tell no one was fishing them. Fish were jumping. I’m guessing that the ton of great fishing on rivers and lakes away from the highways keeps these lakes extremely quiet…must be nice
http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a117/APetesky/BCVacation034.jpg


The RV performed well on the way back home so I stopped off at Medicine Lake in Jasper to see how it was going. Amazingly the lake dropped about 6 feet in a week and a half. The disappearing trick that lake does happens quickly. So, I headed out to fish it. Not wanting to cross it yet I walked from the far end and along the entire length and back again….about 20 kms round trip! Unfortunately I did not catch a single fish. The lake is still about 2 feet too high, chest deep, to reach the river channel where all the fish are. I did manage to get out some flies into the channel but the lack of current when the water is higher made it only a “scratching the surface” experience. Still, nice hike in some beauty country.

http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a117/APetesky/BCVacation001.jpg

to be continued...

SNAPFisher
08-31-2010, 08:49 AM
http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a117/APetesky/BCVacation002.jpg

http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a117/APetesky/BCVacation004.jpg

http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a117/APetesky/BCVacation005.jpg

This pic shows the channel just out of reach. The water in the pic doesn’t look deep but it was definitely over my head in depth near the channel…almost floated a few times trying to get near it…and that water was COLD!!!
http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a117/APetesky/BCVacation006.jpg

Found this amazing high water mark around Medicine. Looked like at one time the lake was 45-50 feet deeper…that would have been something to see
http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a117/APetesky/BCVacation010.jpg

Saw these sandpipers? The male had a real long beak that looked almost like a small advocet. They were comical to watch.
http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a117/APetesky/BCVacation011.jpg

My last stop was the confluence of the McLeod and Gregg rivers. Love this spot! Managed to catch about 15 rocky mountain whites, nothing huge, and hooked up on 4 different bull trout but didn’t manage to land a single one. One of them was a decent size too. Still had a great time there before heading home.

Probably one of trips that had the most up and downs that I have experienced. One thing I know is that I’m still longing to see the Skeena and will be heading back that way again – likely next year.

Rockymtnx
08-31-2010, 11:32 AM
Looks like it was pretty good trip.
Thanks for sharing your pics and story with us.

BobLoblaw
08-31-2010, 04:50 PM
Wow! Thanks for that; great report & pics, dude!

TreeGuy
08-31-2010, 09:05 PM
OUTSTANDING trip report thread SF. Thank you so much for putting the time and effort into sharing your adventure with us all! :happy0180: :happy0034:

pikester
08-31-2010, 09:05 PM
Awesome pics & good story! Aside from the motorhome troubles & "First Nations fish allowance:mad3:" sounds like a great trip. Congrats on the Cohos, they are nice fish. I don't know about you but in my books 'Ho's are pound for pound the best fighting fish you can get on a flyrod:sHa_shakeshout:

Penner
08-31-2010, 09:24 PM
Great report. Thanks for posting.

bowness
08-31-2010, 10:00 PM
Equal rights for ALL CANADIANS. Natives have been killing and illegally selling salmon there for decades. For all I know they may have the legal right to sell on the highway now. Atleast they have stopped using gaffs on the end of poles. The loss rate was huge and few salmon survive a gaff to the belly!
Pity you missed Terrace, was there for three weeks and the chinook fishing was awesome!

Albertadiver
08-31-2010, 10:00 PM
OUTSTANDING trip report thread SF. Thank you so much for putting the time and effort into sharing your adventure with us all! :happy0180: :happy0034:

X2

The Fisherman Guy
08-31-2010, 11:18 PM
I am leaving for Terrace, Kitimat, Smithers and hopefully Ketchikan on Friday!

Thanks for giving me a sneak peak at what I am in for!!!

Fishin' Fool
08-31-2010, 11:40 PM
Thanks for sharing SNAPpy. Awesome stuff!

FF

uicehole
09-01-2010, 12:41 AM
Excellent writup! Thanks for sharing and too bad about your motor troubles.

Kingfisher
09-01-2010, 01:21 AM
Sounds like quite a trip SF. Sometimes the adventure of just getting there is more than the destination itself. At least you got into some nice fish.

I believe the fish the natives are letting go are the steelhead. They keep the salmon.

I am leaving for Terrace, Kitimat, Smithers and hopefully Ketchikan on Friday!

Thanks for giving me a sneak peak at what I am in for!!!

Hey, TFG I just got back a few hours ago from a cruise to Alaska. I did some fly fishing in Ketchikan for pinks while I was there. I fished the White River. I caught 13 pinks and one chum in about 2 hours of fishing. There are lots of pinks and some chum in the river. But everything up north is late this year. The coho are just coming into the system. Lots of bears there. Holy smokes. Bring some bear spray and a noise maker. Up there every guide carries bear spray and a side arm.

As I said everything is late up there. In Juneau there was a guy who was saying the coho weren't going to be there. But the guy was not too pretty smart. They'll be there. Just later than usual.

Rob

SNAPFisher
09-01-2010, 07:41 AM
Thanks for the comments back everyone! I enjoyed writing it up so I can remember this trip always.

I waffled on putting any mention of the native fishing in but it was just so blatantly obvious of the imbalance. Picture that I was lucky enough to land 1 salmon that Friday evening and the family of 4 casting every sort of spoon in front of fish with no luck. Meanwhile a harvest of a 100 salmon an hour is talking place just downstream and upstream of us. Likely of the very same fish that we tried to fool...
One last mention on this, the guys at OK Tire got me a ride to the airport to pick up the rental. It was a native gentleman. Nice guy but when I did mention the area I was fishing he said "Yeah, I get my 100 tonight.". I probably should have inquired more but I just shut up at that point.

Enough about the negative side, Pikester, Hos are indeed my favorite fighting fish. However, the pinks did surprise me. They were also amazing with plenty of jumps. Made me think I was catching coho until I got them close. Saw my backing of every fish caught. Nothing I hooked was under 5 lbs. I am now permantently bent on this kind of fishing :)

Fisherman Guy, have a great time! The fish were getting thicker by the hour. More and more coho were arriving. Apparently the sockeye were on the way up to that area as well. Pinks were thick. Best of luck to you!

Cheers!

The Fisherman Guy
09-01-2010, 09:17 AM
You know you hang around a group of like minded outdoorsmen when two of them have already done the trip of a lifetime that I have been looking forward to for years, just a week before I am to leave!

Tough one about the native fishery. Tough for guys like us to see it because it is completely new to us flat footed folk. They may be netting, but understandably this has been their custom and a deep part of their heritage for hundreds of years. Who are we to say it is wrong? Tough to see them effortlessly catch a hundred salmon in an hour, when others struggle to hook into just one, no doubt.

Not one to start a battle, or offer up a defense for these customs. This is a time of year when the native people fish for their families and build their salmon supply up, just like non native fisherman. There are many elderly, too young, sick, or single mothers etc that rely on others to provide them with salmon and share what remains of their culture.

I think the contrast of modern fishing practice to maximize the catch ratio, as opposed to traditional native ways is what gets to most people. If the natives were building their own nets, boats, ropes and catching these fish in the same ways that their ancestors did, it would perpetuate their culture and build a more positive public awareness for their fishing practices.

As I mentioned earlier; I am not trying to start a battle, just how I see it now. I could very well have a different point of view when I return from my trip.

Thanks again Snapfisher for putting together a great trip report to share with us.

SNAPFisher
09-01-2010, 10:13 AM
TFG, no problem. I understand. Obviously I was there to kill some fish too. Also, what I didn't mention is that I did get along great with a number of the native locals. I had some good chats about other subjects. They had no problem with me fishing inbetween their fishing grounds and that also says something.

You are headed on a potential trip of a lifetime. I know mine is unforgettable. I hope the same for you too. Cheers!

P.S. If you get a chance, stop in at the small airport just outside of Smithers. In the main lobby is a 1200 lb grizzly that will make you stare and think "I never want to be on the bad side of one of those!". Is is a past live grizzly that they had taxidermied. Really worth the quick stop and stare.

The Fisherman Guy
09-01-2010, 10:53 AM
Awesome Snap, thanks for the advice man!

With all the verbal abuse that goes on from time to time on this board, I am stoked that there are still good folks that can share stories and viewpoints without a raging fireball of anger erupting based on personal ethics. Trading opinions, and being open to interpretation of someone else's experience is a trust that is fleeting these days it seems. Very glad it is not lost from everyone!

I will definitely check out that Grizz, things like that are totally worth the effort to find.

sco22
09-01-2010, 01:44 PM
Hey Snap,

Long time no talk - sounds like you had a great trip, notwithstanding the engine problems. Maybe they were a blessing in disguise. I thoroughly enjoyed the story and the pics and now I am insanely jealous.

Cheers.

cleson
09-01-2010, 02:25 PM
I am leaving for Terrace, Kitimat, Smithers and hopefully Ketchikan on Friday!

Thanks for giving me a sneak peak at what I am in for!!!



I will be in Kitimat on Tuesday. I will be camped at radley park. Not sure if I will tent it or or sleep in the truck. I will be in a black f-150 supercab with alberta plates, and no tent probably. I will fish with tracey from steelhead heaven for a day probably. Other than that, I will be solo. If you see my rig, swing by for a visit, and if you are fishing solo, maybe we can fish together. I know a few wholes there.

I lived in Kitimat for seven years, and the northcoast natives are very friendly and accomodating.