.270 Win 150gr bullet?

[Huntsman]

Eventually when I'm thru with whats left of my 130gr bullets I'd like to use only 150gr bullets (have'nt decided which make yet?) for my .270.
The powder I am currently using is IMR4831 and will switch to H4831 for its .
What are the loads that you've used that have brought you success with both accuracy and one shot kills.
The bullets that I have'nt decided on yet are;
-Nosler Ballistic Tip or Partition
-Barnes TSX, It states: *Recommended twist rate is 1:9.5 or faster
-Hornady IL
-Sierra GK

The rifle is a Win model 70 FW w/1:10 twist. What would you recommend?

[Marlin xl7]

I load sierra's in mine, shoot extremely well.

[DennyV]

Berger hunting VLD 140gr with 55gr IMR4831 through my gun 3 shot group
.286" cold clean barrel. Simply astounding. Love em for the knock down power also. Shot all kinds of game with them and every time one shot lullaby's. They also make a 150gr in the hunting VLD you wont be disappointed.

[elkhunter11]

I would be using the 130gr TTSX,it will out penetrate the other three bullets you listed.

[nanuk-O-dah-Nort]

in my haste to buy component when I had $$$ and there was serious talk of shortages, I bought 1000 brass, and 1000 bullets, and several #'s powder.

All brass was from the same lot, NosPart 160gr 300, NosPart 130gr 700.

found I liked H4831. ( just might have to try RL22 if I trade for 150's)

I'm thinking now, I'd like to trade off my 130/160's and stick to 150's. pick about 300 brass that are identical, dump the rest. find a powder that gives me under 1MOA at near max loads.

I'm pretty sold on NosPart. and the 150gr has decent BC.

[gitrdun]

Huntsman, of all the bullets you list, they should all work just fine. But beware of the Ballistic Tips, especially in the .270. Just do a bit of a search in this forum and you'll see why. I realize others may disagree, but it's just my opinion and experience.

[Pathfinder76]

The Barnes 130 gr TSX and H4831 is where I would end up. If you must go to the 150 it would be the 150 Partition for me.

[Scott N]

I'm kind of on the same page as chuck. My buddy shoots a 270 and we worked up a really good load with 150 gr Partitions, which worked well on both deer sized game and the moosed he dropped with it. He's now shooting the 130 gr TSX bullets, which seem as effective on game but are more accurate in his rifle.

[Homesteader]

I'm kind of on the same page as chuck. My buddy shoots a 270 and we worked up a really good load with 150 gr Partitions, which worked well on both deer sized game and the moosed he dropped with it. He's now shooting the 130 gr TSX bullets, which seem as effective on game but are more accurate in his rifle.

Or split the difference, and go with the 140g TSX's. I'm getting excellent results with them in an older Rem Mountain Rifle. Not sure the twist rate, but the rifle likes them alot.

[Huntsman]

So the BT's get the NOGO, as accurate as they are they seem to "BLOW UP" and don't exit, this would be fine if I was shooting just deer, but in my area moose & elk roam the prairie.
I'm thinking towards the 150gr TSX. I realize and read that Barnes Staff recomend dropping down to the next bullet wt. so the 140gr TSX would be in order but it just so happens I can get a good deal on the 150gr.
My hunting/shoosting partner tried the 140gr TSX this yr for the 1st time and made some good THWACKS with them on some muley does, one out 300m!

**Just read that the 150gr TSX are particular when trying to group??**

[elkhunter11]

**Just read that the 150gr TSX are particular when trying to group??**

Probably because people insist on trying to use them in rifles with too slow of a twist.There is a reason that Barnes recommends a tighter twist for the 150s.
The fact is,that a good 130gr bullet,like the TTSX,will cleanly take any game in Alberta.All that going to a 150gr bullet will accomplish,is add a little recoil,and add some more bullet drop at normal hunting ranges.

As for the TSX,and the TTSX,I have not found them to be at all fussy,if you use them in a suitable bore/weight/twist barrel, and seat them off of the lands .030" to .070".

[Marlin xl7]

Berger hunting VLD 140gr with 55gr IMR4831 through my gun 3 shot group
.286" cold clean barrel. Simply astounding. Love em for the knock down power also. Shot all kinds of game with them and every time one shot lullaby's. They also make a 150gr in the hunting VLD you wont be disappointed.

Where do you find these? I have looked EVERYWHERE

[elkhunter11]

Where do you find these? I have looked EVERYWHERE

Are you sure that you checked EVERYWHERE?Have you checked every Berger dealer on the list below?

http://www.bergerbullets.com/Dealer%20Locator/States/Canada.html

Bashaw Sports had a good selection of Berger bullets,when I was in the store on Friday.

[Marlin xl7]

Are you sure that you checked EVERYWHERE?Have you checked every Berger dealer on the list below?

http://www.bergerbullets.com/Dealer%20Locator/States/Canada.html

Bashaw Sports had a good selection of Berger bullets,when I was in the store on Friday.

well I've checked everywhere in the 3 and a half hour radius of my place, No one seems to have 150 gr VLD's

[elkhunter11]

well I've checked everywhere in the 3 and a half hour radius of my place, No one seems to have 150 gr VLD's

Your definition of EVERYWHERE,differs a great deal from mine.LOL.Bullets can be mailed through Canada Post.

[Marlin xl7]

Your definition of EVERYWHERE,differs a great deal from mine.LOL.Bullets can be mailed through Canada Post.

That may be, I just don't have luck when I call in or stop by to see if they have them, they usually have 140's, but my rifle just won't shoot 140's. Can you perhaps shed some light on why my rifle won't shoot them ( other than it doesnt like them and every rifle is different) or perhaps some ways to make it shoot the 140's? (BTW it has a 22 inch barrel and 1:10 twist)


Sorry for the high-jack :(

[Chukar Hunter]

Here is 40 years of experience on the 270 and the bullets that kill game and shoot well.

Stay away from premium bullets. Most of them do not expand well. Sierra (both Gameking And Pro hunter) have always been the most accurate bullet I have loaded and shot game with.

On a standard 270, you might not get higher velocities with a 150 grain bullet. I would stay with the 130 or the 140 grains. If you shoot a 270 Magnum (WSM or WBY), then 150 grain is fine. Remember, JOC shot 16 Elk and several Moose with the 130 grain Western pointed tip out of his 270.

Good luck.

CH

[elkhunter11]

Can you perhaps shed some light on why my rifle won't shoot them ( other than it doesnt like them and every rifle is different)

How many powders did you try?What distances from the lands have you tried?H ave you tried seating them into the lands?It isn't unusual to have to seat them into the lands to get them to shoot.Then again,perhaps your gun doesn't like them and every rifle is different.And that is a legitimate statement,since some rifles,simply won't shoot certain bullets,or certain loads accurately.

[Marlin xl7]

How many powders did you try?What distances from the lands have you tried?H ave you tried seating them into the lands?It isn't unusual to have to seat them into the lands to get them to shoot.Then again,perhaps your gun doesn't like them and every rifle is different.And that is a legitimate statement,since some rifles,simply won't shoot certain bullets,or certain loads accurately.

We have tryed IMR 4831 and IMR4350, and seating depths galore. One of these days I will just have to play around and try and figure one out.

[elkhunter11]

We have tryed IMR 4831 and IMR4350, and seating depths galore. One of these days I will just have to play around and try and figure one out.
Have you seated into the lands?Two powders is not a great deal of testing,but you should at least find reasonable groups.What are your group sizes?

[Marlin xl7]

My groups were anywhere from 1 inch to 3 inches. And no I have not seated into the lands, I thought that would cause too much pressure?

[elkhunter11]

My groups were anywhere from 1 inch to 3 inches. And no I have not seated into the lands, I thought that would cause too much pressure?

Were the groups better closer to the lands?If you are going to seat into the lands ,reduce the powder charge slightly.By the way,1" really isn't that bad for a factory rifle.That may be the best the gun will do with that bullet.

[Marlin xl7]

Were the groups better closer to the lands?If you are going to seat into the lands ,reduce the powder charge slightly.By the way,1" really isn't that bad for a factory rifle.That may be the best the gun will do with that bullet.

I honestly cant remember if they were or not, been a while since we tested them. And with my rifle I can get well under an inch with factory ammo so the rifle can shoot.

[elkhunter11]

And with my rifle I can get well under an inch with factory ammo so the rifle can shoot.


With which weight,and style of bullet?Let the gun tell you what it prefers.

[Marlin xl7]

With which weight,and style of bullet?Let the gun tell you what it prefers.

150 gr winchester power points.

[elkhunter11]

150 gr winchester power points.

Then you might want to try a bullet of similar length,and bearing area to the power point.Your gun just may not do as well with the long Berger bullets.

[Huntsman]

And..........9 posts later back to the topic.
So Chukar Hunter, your saying I should'nt bother with the Premiums and stick to normal off the shelf types such as the Hornady Interlock, Rem CL and such.
I'm sure they work and obviously have worked and I suppose there's no real reason to jump to a 150gr bullet if I don't need to?
I read a story in RifleShooter magazine a month or two back about Non-Premium bullets perfect for deer but not so much for the heavier game. I have no problem dropping a deer with Core Lokt or Interlock cause they drop them and if they don't lose thier core I get a pass thru shot. It is the losing of its core that I'm having an issue with especially when I go after Mr Bullwinkle of Mr Elk. That is why I opted for a heavier bullet for everything and looked at Barnes & Nosler.

[Pathfinder76]

Here is 40 years of experience on the 270 and the bullets that kill game and shoot well.

Stay away from premium bullets. Most of them do not expand well. Sierra (both Gameking And Pro hunter) have always been the most accurate bullet I have loaded and shot game with.

On a standard 270, you might not get higher velocities with a 150 grain bullet. I would stay with the 130 or the 140 grains. If you shoot a 270 Magnum (WSM or WBY), then 150 grain is fine. Remember, JOC shot 16 Elk and several Moose with the 130 grain Western pointed tip out of his 270.

Good luck.

CH

Where do people come up with this stuff?

[Deo101]

Federal 140gr ballistics are prety wild in my ruger 270...My 270 seems to prefer the 130 federal power shocks....

Huntsman, of all the bullets you list, they should all work just fine. But beware of the Ballistic Tips, especially in the .270. Just do a bit of a search in this forum and you'll see why. I realize others may disagree, but it's just my opinion and experience.

[gitrdun]

Federal 140gr ballistics are prety wild in my ruger 270...My 270 seems to prefer the 130 federal power shocks....

Not sure what you mean by pretty wild. If you mean that they work well, it's likely because they are of a much lower velocity. The ballistic tips need to hit target at a somewhat milder velocity in order to expand and not grenade themselves. I don't shoot factory ammo, in my opinion, if you shoot a 270 it's 'cause you want to take advantage of the inherent velocity potential and resulting flat shooting advantage. Mine were launched at 3250fps outta my WSM, hit the target at 100 yards and exploded. Too fast for the task at hand. Great on paper, but crap on game.

[gitrdun]

Here is 40 years of experience on the 270 and the bullets that kill game and shoot well.

Stay away from premium bullets. Most of them do not expand well. Sierra (both Gameking And Pro hunter) have always been the most accurate bullet I have loaded and shot game with.

On a standard 270, you might not get higher velocities with a 150 grain bullet. I would stay with the 130 or the 140 grains. If you shoot a 270 Magnum (WSM or WBY), then 150 grain is fine. Remember, JOC shot 16 Elk and several Moose with the 130 grain Western pointed tip out of his 270.

Good luck.

CH

No. I'm not stating that you should stay away from a premium bullet. As an example, Nosler's Partition bullets were a premium bullet and stood alone with that title for many years since I can't remember. But then, the wheel was re-invented many times over with bullet manufacturers opting for our hunting dollar. The Partition as a result fell behind all the other new stuff, heck Swift copied that design and called it an A-Frame and put a hefty price tag on it, same bullet. Speer came out with the Trophy Bonded Bear Claw, to my knowledge, same bullet different name. Partitions will kill and hold on to their weight. On the other end of the spectrum, Hornady Interlocks which are your basic cup and cone design will separate. You'll find the jacket and the lead core in a different part of your quarry, but it will be dead. I recently opted for Barnes TSX's simply because....well, I figured to give 'em a try. They performed well, but at a much higher price tag. I think we overthink stuff too much.

[elkhunter11]

The Partition as a result fell behind all the other new stuff, heck Swift copied that design and called it an A-Frame and put a hefty price tag on it, same bullet.

Actually,they are not the same bullet.The A-Frame has bonded cores while the Partition doesn't.As a result,the A-Frame retains more weight than the Partition.

Speer came out with the Trophy Bonded Bear Claw, to my knowledge, same bullet different name.

Your knowledge is badly flawed.The partition has two cores separated by a partition.The original TBBC was developed by Jack Carter whose company name was Trophy Bonded Bullets.The original TBBC has a rear shank of solid copper,with a core bonded into a cavity in front of that solid copper shank.Speer bought the rights to the TBBC,and have since made it their own.

If you are going to post such statements,you might want to do a little research first.

[gitrdun]

Actually,they are not the same bullet.The A-Frame has bonded cores while the Partition doesn't.As a result,the A-Frame retains more weight than the Partition.



Your knowledge is badly flawed.The partition has two cores separated by a partition.The original TBBC was developed by Jack Carter whose company name was Trophy Bonded Bullets.The original TBBC has a rear shank of solid copper,with a core bonded into a cavity in front of that solid copper shank.Speer bought the rights to the TBBC,and have since made it their own.

If you are going to post such statements,you might want to do a little research first.

Elk, I can't help to chuckle to myslef as I knew that if anything that I stated was just a smidge incorrect, you'd be the first to set me straight. I love you man. :sHa_shakeshout: No. I really mean that.

Ok, I'll be the fist to say that maybe I wasn't just a "smidge" incorrect. By your standards, I really ****ed up. :snapoutofit:

[elkhunter11]

Elk, I can't help to chuckle to myslef as I knew that if anything that I stated was just a smidge incorrect, you'd be the first to set me straight.

A smidge incorrect.LOL.As in the TBBC not being copied from the Partition,not being developed by Speer, having only one core instead of two cores,that one core being bonded, a solid copper rear shank instead of a rear lead core like the Partition,a copper jacket,whereas the Partition uses gilding metal for jacket material, and best of all,the TBBC doesn't even having a Partition as part of it's design.That is a lot more than being a "smidge" incorrect.In fact,the Partition and TBBC have virtually nothing in common other than both being bullets.

As for the A-frame,the jacket is copper as compared to the gilding metal jacket on the Partition,the A-Frame has bonded cores,and the partition is placed farther to the front of the A-Frame.The Partition uses a spitzer point,while the A-Frame uses a semi spitzer point.They do however both have a partition as part of their design.At least you were a "smidge" correct in that comparison.LOL.

[Huntsman]

Hornady Interlocks which are your basic cup and cone design will separate. You'll find the jacket and the lead core in a different part of your quarry, but it will be dead. I recently opted for Barnes TSX's simply because....well, I figured to give 'em a try. They performed well, but at a much higher price tag. I think we overthink stuff too much.

I been shooting the lead core & cup bullets for umpteen yrs...The animals have dropped/expired and rest in my deep freeze afterwards...I normally find the fragments in and around the wound channel and the empty cup just under the hide if it does'nt pass thru....If I was'nt able to find these fragments or field dress my game it was because the bullet failed
and the animal was never recovered. But the bullet did'nt fail or did it?
I too think we overthink stuff..to the point of self confusion:confused0024:
Do I need a premium bullet......? I agree with Gitrdun cause I too am considering the TSX just to give em a try.
:angry3::scared0015::angry3::snapoutofit:

[gitrdun]

Dead is dead....n'ugh said!

[nanuk-O-dah-Nort]

everyone has a different take on what is better, or what seems to work better.

I know a guy who Swears AT NosPart's cause the 130's he used BLEW UP on deer.... then passed through with a small exit hole.

I tried to explain to him: That is what they are SUPPOSED to do.

:argue2:

to find the BEST bullet for you, you need to assign your parameters, then choose bullets that fall inside those, then work up loads to find the one that shoots the best for YOU!

I met a guy at a SillyWet competition here that used a 130gr Partition cause it was THE most accurate he found. Go figure.

[gitrdun]

everyone has a different take on what is better, or what seems to work better.

I know a guy who Swears AT NosPart's cause the 130's he used BLEW UP on deer.... then passed through with a small exit hole.

I tried to explain to him: That is what they are SUPPOSED to do.

:argue2:

to find the BEST bullet for you, you need to assign your parameters, then choose bullets that fall inside those, then work up loads to find the one that shoots the best for YOU!

I met a guy at a SillyWet competition here that used a 130gr Partition cause it was THE most accurate he found. Go figure.

You make me laugh. NO, we can't agree...that would just be plain wrong. Besides, if we all agree, elkhunter11 would die, and we don't want that.

WTF is a SillyWet competition, you guys showed up in Speedo's? It's spelled Silhouette you moron :)

[ovis40]

I'm thinking now, I'd like to trade off my 130.

I'm pretty sold on NosPart.

Nanuk
If you want to get rid of your 130 Partitions let me know.
This is the bullet that I've been using for over twenty years and have never had a problem with them yet. My .270's (win.) love IMR4350. If your catching fish why change the hook....??

[elkhunter11]

Besides, if we all agree, elkhunter11 would die, and we don't want that.

It's not disagreeing to point out the glaring errors in your assumptions.It's just a matter of pointing out your mistakes,so other readers that don't know the difference, will not be led astray by you.If you actually spent a little time researching,before posting such inaccurate statements,it wouldn't be necessary.

[pockets]

I would have a look at the Hornady 150 Interbond. It has the best BC, and are suposed to be very consistent for expansion at close and long range. Push it with H4831SC, or RL22.

[Cal]

And..........9 posts later back to the topic.
So Chukar Hunter, your saying I should'nt bother with the Premiums and stick to normal off the shelf types such as the Hornady Interlock, Rem CL and such.
I'm sure they work and obviously have worked and I suppose there's no real reason to jump to a 150gr bullet if I don't need to?
I read a story in RifleShooter magazine a month or two back about Non-Premium bullets perfect for deer but not so much for the heavier game. I have no problem dropping a deer with Core Lokt or Interlock cause they drop them and if they don't lose thier core I get a pass thru shot. It is the losing of its core that I'm having an issue with especially when I go after Mr Bullwinkle of Mr Elk. That is why I opted for a heavier bullet for everything and looked at Barnes & Nosler.

With the .270 IMO you have the options of using regular 150's or using premium 130's for moose and elk. 150 grain bullets like the interlock, winchester silvertip (not the balistic silver tip) and corelock have worked very well for me on moose and the new bonded bullets should work at least as well. I once flubbed a shot and broke both shoulders of a moose with a 150 grain corelokt which was actualy in pretty good shape when I recovered it, I wouldnt reccomend attempting this but the right standard bullet works well enough that you do have some margin for error. If I was to go to a premium bullet I would probably use lighter bullets just because I could, not that premium 150's arent also a good choice. An older neighbour of mine that only hunts moose and no longer takes deer (hunts them sometimes but rarely bothers to shoot them) has used 150 grain nosler Partitions in his .270 for about as long as he can remember and swears by them.

[lclund1946]

Here is 40 years of experience on the 270 and the bullets that kill game and shoot well.

Stay away from premium bullets. Most of them do not expand well. Sierra (both Gameking And Pro hunter) have always been the most accurate bullet I have loaded and shot game with.

On a standard 270, you might not get higher velocities with a 150 grain bullet. I would stay with the 130 or the 140 grains. If you shoot a 270 Magnum (WSM or WBY), then 150 grain is fine. Remember, JOC shot 16 Elk and several Moose with the 130 grain Western pointed tip out of his 270.

Good luck.

CH

I have a tendency to agree with CH and am only posting here because I am too dam old and sore to be out hunting. It seems to me that there are a lot of people wasting too much time reading magazines and posts like this thread. I bought a 270 BSA Deluxe Sporting rifle with 22" barrel in 1965-66 after shooting and hunting for about 10 years with my fathers 22, 25-20, 30-30, 303, 30-06 etc. I used the same Winchester PP Factory Ammo that I had saw my father shoot moose with in his 30-06 BSA. I once saw him shoot a moose at about 600 yards with the 180 grain PP in this old iron sighted rifle. When I skinned it out I found a perfectly mushromed bullet just under the hide on the other side. I thought "this is just about what the 170 Winchester load did at 175 yards in the old 30-30".

Of course I used the 130 Grain Winchester PP in my 270 as that was probably the only ammo available at the time and my uncle and a friend of his had killed a number of moose with them. I killed 2 moose in the same spot as my fathers 600 yard shot and both died on the spot. Only difference was that I didn't recover those bullets as they went right through. Sorry I guess another difference was that I had the advantage of my "cheap Japanese Bushnell ScopChief 1V, 3-9X40". I gave this combination to my son as a high school graduation present after killing close to 25 moose, 1 elk and countless deer without a bullet failure. I loaded some 150 Nosler BT's for my son and helped pack out a moose that he had killed cleanly, with 1 shot, after others had missed the 400+ yard shot with their big boomers.

The last 15 -20 moose, with the exception of two, and 4 of the last 6 elk that I have shot were killed with my 7mm-08 rifles. I have witnessed my younger son kill a 4 year old bull moose @ 440 yards and a 5X5 bull elk at 480 yards with a Speer 160 BT in these rifles. I started loading when I got my first 7-08, a Rem 700V, and first up was the 150 and 140 Nosler Solid Base (BT without the polymer tip). I shot three antelope with the 150 grainers @ 2815 fps before going to the 140 grainers pushed to 3000fps. I had the opportunity to kill a few moose with the 140 SB with the longest one shot, through and through, at 575 yards. When the SB bullets were replaced with the 140 & 120 BT's I found that they were too long to fit in the magazine when loaded with the powders that were available at the time so I switched to the 145 & 160 Speer bullets. They have never failed and I have recovered very few.

A friend of mine shot a large bull moose with a 145 Speer BT launched at 2940fps from a Weatherby Weatherguard that I had sold him, along with some handloads. The moose was quartering to, at about 250 yards, so he shot him just inside of the point of the front shoulder. I asked the butcher to save the bullet for me so I could see how it held up. After charging for processing 875 pounds of meat he informed me that the bullet had exited near the back of the ribs on the off side. How much penetration does one really need to kill a moose? Do we really need premium bullets and "Magnum" rifles to kill moose and elk?

To the OP. Any of the bullets suggested in this thread will get the job done. I would go with a 140 grain boattail with a polymer tip. Premium bullets are not really necessary but why not use them now that we have them. If you go with the 140 BERGER VLD, or any of the SP's be careful not to damage the tips. The 150 Nosler BT did shoot good in my sons old BSA, with 22" barrel, but I was pushing them to the max at 3000fps and don't know if I would recommend that load.

[aulrich]

I look at it this way 90% of the bullets out there in .277 we designed for the 270 win ther is a certain luxury of limited number of chamerings in that diameter brings. Personally priemium heads in 270 win does not buy you much but if it floats your boat who am I to say.

Mine is a pure deer gun so plain old 130 sierras are what I use, if it was going to step up I would likely try the plain 150's first. I am reluctant to use a priemium 130 just for the fact I like my deer bullets on the soft side.

[Mountain Guy]

For 150gr's, my 270 loved Speer Grand Slams...

[nanuk-O-dah-Nort]

You make me laugh. NO, we can't agree...that would just be plain wrong. Besides, if we all agree, elkhunter11 would die, and we don't want that.

WTF is a SillyWet competition, you guys showed up in Speedo's? It's spelled Silhouette you moron :)



Hey Moron, WTF is WTF? :snapoutofit:

I needed a good laugh!:sHa_shakeshout:

[BigJon]

anyways...

for 150 gr. bullets in .270...I would be really inclined to try out SGK's. Personally, I wouldn't have any qualms with using them for deer, moose, or elk.

I have two friends that shoot .277 150 grain Nosler Partitions for all their big game hunting. One is a .270 Win the other is a .270 WSM. They both shoot MOA. From spitting distance out to 430 yards (longest to date - bull elk with .270 WSM) animals hit through the chest promptly die. I would persoanlly probably try these bullets out as well, even though the voice inside my head tells me that I would likely achieve better accuracy with the SGK's.

[srp71]

After 23 yrs shooting my .270win,I've tried everything from the cheapest to the expensive.For the first yrs of that guns life it shot anything from CIL's to Magtips and Grandslams.Speer boat tails and Sierra game kings.Tailor mades as well as handloads.There was a few years in there where I hardly ever shot it.Then I bought a box of TBBC.I now shoot 140TBBC's(for about 12yrs) but I am now down to my last dozen.The best my gun evershot were the old XP3 Win 140 Silvertip Boattails.Shot everything from beaver to 'yotes to moose with them.I personally have had best luck with the 140's over the 150's.
As a side note I do have a box of Speer's (I think)that are 170's.They were given to me and I've never used them.They are in a yellow cardboard box with red bindings on the corners.Man are they long.Anyone have any clue how old they may be?

[Dick284]

Just to play a bit of devils advocate.

What if your rifle shoots those danged inferior 130gr bullets way better than it does 150gr. 'gucchi super uber premium pentrate a dinosuar stem to stern bullets?"

Test drive and evaluate before you say this is where I want to go, just maybe things are not all that much greener over the next hill.

[Grouse Hunter]

For my 270 I load my shells with IMR 4350 at 52.5 grains and a 140 gr. Nosler Ballistic tip. I get great accuracy with the load. Couple seasons ago I shoot my whitetail at close to 250 yard and drop right in his tracks. But I have had problems with the accu-bonds not a real big fan of them.

[gonewest]

I haven't shot a GAZZILION deer like some on here but have shot over 40 deer with a .270. I have used 130,140 and 150 gr bullets. Best I have found for the money is a Hornady 130 or 140 gr Sp. I used to shoot alot of Hornady Custom loads. For factory ammo it was not expensive and very good. Now I reload and get great groups with 130 gr Interlock or Hot-core bullet with 60 grs of H4831SC powder. Just a real oldie but goodie Jack O'conner load. Alot of deer have been taken with that combination. Good luck.

[nanuk-O-dah-Nort]

And..........back to the topic.

I read a story in RifleShooter magazine a month or two back about Non-Premium bullets perfect for deer but not so much for the heavier game. I have no problem dropping a deer with Core Lokt or Interlock cause they drop them and if they don't lose thier core I get a pass thru shot. It is the losing of its core that I'm having an issue with especially when I go after Mr Bullwinkle of Mr Elk. That is why I opted for a heavier bullet for everything and looked at Barnes & Nosler.


Huntsman: just an after thought here

I used 150gr RN Federals one year cause they shoot like lasers out of my Ruger1.... shot a doe 5 times, ZERO pass throughs. All within 100 yds. I thought I was missing cause she kept running. it was a neck shot (accidental, as I was aiming for the lungs) that finally stopped her.

I guess those C&C RN bullets REALLY expand fast!

[pockets]

I use 130 TSX as they have quite a good BC for longer ranges. But, I am going to the 150 Hornady Interbond, after a friend had great success with them in Africa, and another over seas hunt this year. They also have the highest BC next to the Berger 150.