Rolling your own

[ShawnM]

Well yesterday I managed to grind out my first hand loads from home. I whipped up five rounds of .22-250 with 52gr Hornady ATX bullets. I must say that I was very happy that at the end of the process they actually looked like real ammunition! I did a min load according to the manual as I'm still not entirely convinced they won't exploded when fired.

I have dies and brass for all my rifles now (except .22LR, go figure) and I'm really looking forward to experimenting with various bullets, loads, etc.

If anyone is interested I bought the Lee Anniversary kit from Cabelas.ca for $129.00. On top of that I need to buy a die set which came with the shell holder and a pilot and shell holder for the trimming attachment for $5 each. After that it's just brass, bullets, primers, and powder and you're good to go!

[Thinlizzy]

Good for you buddy!
I have wanted to try reloading myself.
I think your smart to play it on the safe side as well.
As long as you weren't rolling anything else when you we're working on reloading I wouldn't be too:bad_boys_20: worried about them blowing up!

[gitrdun]

I don't know of an ATX, do you mean an A-Max?, can't be an FTX as they're not available in that caliber. Anyhow, if you've followed the instructions and you're on a starting load, you won't have to worry. But, to put your mind at ease, why not read up on ways to detect high pressure signs? Add a caliper or micrometer to your kit.

[Cowtown guy]

I don't know of an ATX, do you mean an A-Max?, can't be an FTX as they're not available in that caliber. Anyhow, if you've followed the instructions and you're on a starting load, you won't have to worry. But, to put your mind at ease, why not read up on ways to detect high pressure signs? Add a caliper or micrometer to your kit.

X2. Get the Hornady manual and read it. The way to prevent blowing yourself up is to know all you can BEFORE YOU START!

Starting at the minimum is the proper way to go. You should be doing this every time you develop a load. You should also do this when you change an element of your recipe. Now learn how to read pressure signs to stay in the safe zone and go have some fun.

[HunterDave]

MAKE SURE THAT YOU USE THE DATA FOR 22-250 REMINGTON AND NOT 22-250 ACKLEY IMPROVED!!!!!! ..................like I did. :ashamed:

[ShawnM]

Thanks for the pointers guys. As I understand reading high pressure signs is generally a matter of inspecting your cases after firing. Looking for bulges, stretch marks, fouling, etc. I'll look it up in my reloading manual just to be sure though. I'm pretty paranoid about the strength of the loads so chances are I'll always error on the side of caution.

Yes, I did get the name of the bullets wrong. I had too many letters, numbers, labels, etc going on in my head to think clearly. I took the load information from Hornady and started with their min. load for the powder I'm using.

One thing I forgot to mention about the Lee kit is that I didn't use the included powder scale. They say it's very accurate and given the cost of the kit I'd say it's still worth what you pay, but I didn't have enough confidence to trust it. Much of my off-work hours during winter is spent cutting gemstones. The scale I use for weighing rough and cut stones also measures in grains. I think this will be more precise than the balance beam scale they provided.

[HunterDave]

The scale I use for weighing rough and cut stones also measures in grains. I think this will be more precise than the balance beam scale they provided.

You are probably right. I use the Lee balance scale because I can't justify buying a good digital scale due to the cost. It seems to work fine with no accuracy problems as long as you keep checking that it is calibrated. I'd go digital if I did allot of reloading.

[Dumbo_Dave]

One thing I forgot to mention about the Lee kit is that I didn't use the included powder scale. They say it's very accurate and given the cost of the kit I'd say it's still worth what you pay, but I didn't have enough confidence to trust it. Much of my off-work hours during winter is spent cutting gemstones. The scale I use for weighing rough and cut stones also measures in grains. I think this will be more precise than the balance beam scale they provided.[/QUOTE]

Haven't I heard that gold and jems are weighed in grains that are a different unit of measure than we use for powder. Maybe you better check just which "grains" you are using to measure powder. Perhaps the easiest way is to put one of your bullets that you know the weight of on the scale and see what the scale says it is. The Hornady bullets that you are using should be within o.1 grains of each other and thereby give you a reliable test of the scale.

[elkhunter11]

As I understand reading high pressure signs is generally a matter of inspecting your cases after firing. Looking for bulges, stretch marks, fouling, etc.

Those are not what is normally seen as pressure signs. What normally occurs is increased resistance on bolt lift, extrusion marks on the brass, or loose primer pockets after very few firings.

[ShawnM]

Haven't I heard that gold and jems are weighed in grains that are a different unit of measure than we use for powder. Maybe you better check just which "grains" you are using to measure powder. Perhaps the easiest way is to put one of your bullets that you know the weight of on the scale and see what the scale says it is. The Hornady bullets that you are using should be within o.1 grains of each other and thereby give you a reliable test of the scale.

Gems are weight in carats and gold in grams or ounces. But this particular scale has many units of measurement it's good for. Some I can't honestly who would ever use them... But I have checked the measurements against some known quantities like bullets, arrow heads etc. And they measure out at the appropriate weight give or take a fraction of a grain.

[ShawnM]

Those are not what is normally seen as pressure signs. What normally occurs is increased resistance on bolt lift, extrusion marks on the brass, or loose primer pockets after very few firings.

OK, I will definitely watch for these issues. Thanks for the heads up.

[Rem - P14]

Thanks for the pointers guys. As I understand reading high pressure signs is generally a matter of inspecting your cases after firing. Looking for bulges, stretch marks, fouling, etc. I'll look it up in my reloading manual just to be sure though. I'm pretty paranoid about the strength of the loads so chances are I'll always error on the side of caution.

Yes, I did get the name of the bullets wrong. I had too many letters, numbers, labels, etc going on in my head to think clearly. I took the load information from Hornady and started with their min. load for the powder I'm using.

One thing I forgot to mention about the Lee kit is that I didn't use the included powder scale. They say it's very accurate and given the cost of the kit I'd say it's still worth what you pay, but I didn't have enough confidence to trust it. Much of my off-work hours during winter is spent cutting gemstones. The scale I use for weighing rough and cut stones also measures in grains. I think this will be more precise than the balance beam scale they provided.

I am not real super fussy when it comes to powder weight. Please let me qualify that statement as it must sound kind of stupid to a room full of reloaders. To my way of thinking, when measuring powder I am looking for consistancy from my scale more than I am absolute accuracy. So, I usually will take one of the Sierra bullets and weigh it periodically throughout the loading process. If the weight begins to vary at any time, then I know the scale needs to be adjusted to bring it back to zero. Sierra bullets are always very close to the weight posted on the box they come in (as i imagine all bullets are).
Glad to hear you are so careful though and you may decide my method is not as choosy as you would prefer. My feelings will not be hurt if you decide to be more particular than I am suggesting.

[Gonehuntin']

T
One thing I forgot to mention about the Lee kit is that I didn't use the included powder scale. They say it's very accurate and given the cost of the kit I'd say it's still worth what you pay, but I didn't have enough confidence to trust it. Much of my off-work hours during winter is spent cutting gemstones. The scale I use for weighing rough and cut stones also measures in grains. I think this will be more precise than the balance beam scale they provided.

The cheap Lee scale is one of the best I have ever used, at any price.I have 3 loading scales, one Ohaus made Dillon branded unit, one Ohaus made RCBS branded Unit, the Lee Safety Scale, and a small digital I use to tune up my powder dump and to weigh slugs/bullets. I use the Lee most often. I like that the beam cannot bend, it will shatter.So if it's in one piece, it's good to go. And it is as accurate as any of the others.I have had them all out, side by side, weighing the same bullet, and they all say the same thing consistently.

[ShawnM]

So I loaded my first batch of .30-06 on the weekend and I'm happy with the process and results all the way through. The real test will be when I get to a rifle range to try it out of course.

I have a few questions about primers: When I bought my powder I picked up a package of primers but there was a few brands to choose from. I went with the Remington primers because I am using Remington brass. Does the brand of primer make much of a difference? Are the differences in terms of reliability or accuracy? What's the best primer?

Also I went with the Hybrid-100 from Hodgdon over H4350. I had no particular reason to do so, but the H-100 seemed like it would be an all-around powder where the H4350 seemed better for .30 caliber and up.

[catnthehat]

I am not real super fussy when it comes to powder weight. Please let me qualify that statement as it must sound kind of stupid to a room full of reloaders. To my way of thinking, when measuring powder I am looking for consistancy from my scale more than I am absolute accuracy. So, I usually will take one of the Sierra bullets and weigh it periodically throughout the loading process. If the weight begins to vary at any time, then I know the scale needs to be adjusted to bring it back to zero. Sierra bullets are always very close to the weight posted on the box they come in (as i imagine all bullets are).
Glad to hear you are so careful though and you may decide my method is not as choosy as you would prefer. My feelings will not be hurt if you decide to be more particular than I am suggesting.

I would caution against using a bullet - even a match King for a base weight.
Far better to get a proper calibration weight to check you scale, even Match Kings can vary a bit sometimes.
High power shooters BTW ( I'm talking national course shooters) generally throw their charges until the further distances, simply because it does not make a big enough difference difference on the targets until after 500 yards.
Cat

[roger]

if your in the right frame of mind, reloading is a nice relaxation therapy. put on some music,(no tv), clean your area and organize the bench.
one powder/caliber/process at a time until all are done and work in a smooth assembly line type job.



not like me!

[Rem - P14]

I would caution against using a bullet - even a match King for a base weight.
Far better to get a proper calibration weight to check you scale, even Match Kings can vary a bit sometimes.
High power shooters BTW ( I'm talking national course shooters) generally throw their charges until the further distances, simply because it does not make a big enough difference difference on the targets until after 500 yards.
Cat

Thank-you Cat for your input. It occurred to me after I submitted the post on using a bullet as a measure against inconsistancy that I was offering instruction from a beginner's point of view and that is never wise regardless of the simple, common sense the instruction may make. I suppose the best advice any reloader can offer someone just getting their feet wet is to use the manual as religiously as possible. For the record, I still number myself among the beginners where reloading is concerned and my skills thus far only extend so far as to include the very basics of the craft.
Thanks again.

[Alberta Bigbore]

if your in the right frame of mind, reloading is a nice relaxation therapy. put on some music,(no tv), clean your area and organize the bench.
one powder/caliber/process at a time until all are done and work in a smooth assembly line type job.



not like me!

LOL


Im slowly building my reloading equipment with more expensive equipment than the starter stuff. And Im finding it relaxing just figuring out where everthing is going to go :P Almost like the girlfriend when shes organizing her purses and shoes :thinking-006:

[densa44]

The guys are right, you won't have any trouble at the minimum loads. Shoot what you have made and lets hear how they shoot.

My advice is to keep good records. In the "old" days before forums like this, too much pressure was when you needed a rubber hammer to open the bolt! Not any more!

It won't take long to shoot 5 rounds, maybe make up some with a grain or two more. Some of the shooters on here have given good advice of how to increase the charges to pick the best one for you and your gun.

Have fun, and welcome to the club!

[Lonnie]

I don't know of an ATX, do you mean an A-Max?, can't be an FTX as they're not available in that caliber. Anyhow, if you've followed the instructions and you're on a starting load, you won't have to worry. But, to put your mind at ease, why not read up on ways to detect high pressure signs? Add a caliper or micrometer to your kit.

x2 on the caliper it can tell you a lot a bout what is happening and you will fined that you will start using calipers for a lot of things that are not even related to reloading but thier are a lot of things that you will use them for in reloading to.

[catnthehat]

Thank-you Cat for your input. It occurred to me after I submitted the post on using a bullet as a measure against inconsistancy that I was offering instruction from a beginner's point of view and that is never wise regardless of the simple, common sense the instruction may make. I suppose the best advice any reloader can offer someone just getting their feet wet is to use the manual as religiously as possible. For the record, I still number myself among the beginners where reloading is concerned and my skills thus far only extend so far as to include the very basics of the craft.
Thanks again.

I guess I should qaulify my own statement!!:scared:
Zeroing the scale with a calibration weight, then zeroing the powder measure is how many shooters do it, they don't normally set the scale, then change a charge, then come back later and re-set without checking on a scale.
Cat