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View Full Version : Reno Disaster HELP!!


Coldone
06-26-2011, 03:32 PM
Ok.. so I'm at a point in the basement.. that I can't tackle.. I'm looking for some advice that I might not have been able to figure out.. I'm kind of at a loss on how to cover up this mess.. Anyone out there handy enough to lend some advice on what they would do in order to make this... liveable..

I should also point out.. I didn't make this mess.. just trying to figure out a way that it can be corrected...

Angle 1
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v238/vwguy68/phot1o.jpg

Angle 2
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v238/vwguy68/photo-1.jpg

berjerkin
06-26-2011, 03:46 PM
crown molding.

http://www.homedepot.ca/product/primed-mdf-crown-1-3-16-x-2-7-16/904971

220swifty
06-26-2011, 03:48 PM
Just a couple questions.

Am I seeing it right, where you have 2 sections of wall at different thicknesses, and the drywall stops at the joint?

I am also assuming this is an insulated frost wall, due to the poly. Is that right?

Coldone
06-26-2011, 03:49 PM
don't think it'll work because of the oh.. 2 inch difference between the walls...the section on the right sticks out a that much more than the other wall... thought of Crown Moulding.. :(

Coldone
06-26-2011, 03:50 PM
Just a couple questions.

Am I seeing it right, where you have 2 sections of wall at different thicknesses, and the drywall stops at the joint?

I am also assuming this is an insulated frost wall, due to the poly. Is that right?

Yup.. that would be correct..

220swifty
06-26-2011, 03:56 PM
How long is the section that is 2 inches narrower? I would pull the drywall down, and add 2 inches of thickness to the existing studs. To do this, you will want to buy some 2x6, and rip it down to 2"x 1.5" and screw them to the studs, making it 2" thicker. Using 2x6 for this will allow you to get 2 rips out of a board and save you money. I would also run a string line to ensure that your thickness is truely 2" from end to end, and it will also guarantee a nice straight finished product.

Coldone
06-26-2011, 04:07 PM
Good Idea.. but the drywall leads to stairs and by tearing it down to add on to.. would open up an entire new can of worms..

billie
06-26-2011, 04:12 PM
I agree with 220 as the best answer.

If it can just be hidden, or its not really prominent to the room, then you could trim it out with MDF and paint to match the wall. Given some layers and a bit of creativity, MDF can hide a pile of flaw and actually look pretty good.

RLG
06-26-2011, 05:13 PM
What i think looks to be happening from the pictures and comments. Stair wall is the portion recessed, but looks to just be out of plumb with other wall (the jog looks like it tapers, maybe they line up at the bottom but not at the top, is this so?) At the ceiling, looks like a bulkhead running along ceiling. Looks like whoever did it, left the framing back on wall for some reason. Is this what is happening.

A good way is 220 idea, That should be a 2x4 wall at least beside stairs so pulling the drywall off the one side to build it out will work just fine. You could always just build it up over the drywall if you really didn't want to open the wall up.

Another method, Find a stud within 4' from the wall jog, but past where the bulkhead is (if no stud just measure back 4' and you can put on there after). Cut the drywall o/c of stud. Take the drywall off completely, floor to ceiling. Add a block to wall where the current space is beside the bulkhead and anywhere else you need to, add your sheet of drywall and patch. You will always have the jog this way and it will always look out of plumb, but sounds like you dont want to take that wall out.

220swifty
06-26-2011, 05:16 PM
If i were closer, I would come look at it for you. I have fixed much worse.

Albertadiver
06-26-2011, 05:36 PM
any chance you could build a 'column' at the joint?

mudbug
06-26-2011, 06:01 PM
Are they any outlets in either wall? phone, power or otherwise?

deanmc
06-26-2011, 06:05 PM
Wow. If thats what they did on the exterior of the wall......................


I would pull that drywall off and look at the structure. You HAVE to look and see if the same guy did any electrical work underneath of that.:scared0018:

densa44
06-26-2011, 06:12 PM
Have you thought about a for sale sign? If you didn't do this there will be other surprises that you can;t see yet!

The advice is pretty good.

Coldone
06-26-2011, 06:49 PM
Well... I inspected the left hand side further... there is no framing there.. wooden structure.. pinkboard.. drywall glued to board.. basically screwed on that section of wall. The rest of the basement is sound.. Wiring is good I did that myself... I'm an electrician so hope that qualifies me to that part of the job.. basically the one section has me stumped.. thinking a column and a For Sale sign..

Coldone
06-26-2011, 06:51 PM
Also.. thanks for the suggestions guys/gals.. I'm at a loss so anything has been an improvement on the Zero idea's I had before..

deanmc
06-26-2011, 09:17 PM
Can you put another sheet of drywall over everything? save you trying to fill those huge gaps.

Coldone
06-26-2011, 10:12 PM
One suggestion I was given was using spray foam.. Let it cure shave it off with a steak knife and use mudd to even/level it off.. Pretty smart suggestion.. Would totally fill those gaps... Now to solve to two inch gap difference... Any way I look at it.. It ain't gonna be pretty..

Grizzly Adams
06-26-2011, 10:57 PM
Can you put another sheet of drywall over everything? save you trying to fill those huge gaps.

Double drywall the entire wall. That's why they make extra long screws.:D Won't matter if there is a lack of support at the end, cause you'll bridge the gap.

Grizz