First Time Beaver Under Ice
 

I'm getting ready to do some under ice beaver snaring for the first time and I figured that I'd share something that I found in preparation to starting. 5911ryan recently posted an awesome video and this is the method that I'm going to use. One of my locations is very similar to the location in the video so that is where I'll start. Here's a link to the video:

http://youtu.be/3No16a_-cOI

Anyone else trapping beaver at this time of year?

I've been watching Ryans videos too. Today it is fairly warm here so I'm going to give it a try.

I have been catching them with a suspended 330 with some plastic green leaves on the trigger! Got a 60lber that way

A couple of labor saving tricks here :
1 ; With lack of bait ; Use a small piece of styrofoam (Yes Yes I know !)garbage
2; Use 175 lb plastic quick ties , They are used as handcuffs , are quick and hold s 75 lbs beaver.
3; Bottom of the run is always harder than the sides.
4; One run will be used almost exclusively as toilet run where they dump sticks , dont use this one , This is where they carry sticks
5; Run indications are an indent in the side of the lodge where the side slightly caves in
6; When thick ice and hard freezing , caver hole with a lot of snow , like a mound and prevents freezing when you come back for a check .
7; Use a branch pruning shear on a long handle to clear feed bed under ice, hook and cut or saw a log .
I know the fur value is lacking but the castorium is still very good priced.
8; Just in case you are not aware LURE has NO value in under ice trapping! Don,t laugh some fellows think it works ! Your better off sticking it where the sun don,t shine for all the good that does LOL
9; When snaring close to the house , Beaver sometimes get to air pockets in the area where the ice freezes to the lodge , stay far enough away to allow suffocation .
10; last but not least , and this is the one I,ll get arguments about , Beaver do not drown they suffocate .
Check any beaver in a submersion set and it has NO water in the lungs , BUT it has petechiae under the skin small broken blood vessels , Indicates suffocation.

Have to say that this has really got me itching to get out to the new location that I recently got permission on. I'm just a little concerned on whether my 2 wheel drive Ranger will handle the 1/2 mile private drive. I do have 2 questions for you guys that know....
... I noticed that Ryan did not have a cam lock on his beaver snare sets. Are you using them on yours?
... I took a quick look at the regs and haven't found what the "check time" is for underwater snares. Anyone know what it is?

No check time on kill traps as far as I remember

I think that Ryan mentions using cam locks on his snares. I bought a dozen 3' pre-made ones at Halfords with Adams locks to get me going. I'm going to buy the goodies to make 5' ones with camlocks. I'm going to do 3 day checks, they shouldn't take long in this mild weather. Right now I have 3 locations: a slough, a drainage ditch and a dugout.

This is my first location that is very similar to the one in Ryan's video except the lodge is about 50' back in the reeds. There are two clearly identified runs coming from the lodge to the feedpile. The landowner wants the "two beavers" out......I'm thinking that there's more than just two!

http://i743.photobucket.com/albums/x...psadtzugws.jpg

http://i743.photobucket.com/albums/x...psnnqbzbz9.jpg

I have a good idea where the runs are. :)

http://i743.photobucket.com/albums/x...psdwbgmvzd.jpg

My second location is in a drainage ditch with the lodge immediately to the left of the feepile in the bank. I guess that a feed pole either side of the feedpile would be best, not sure.

http://i743.photobucket.com/albums/x...ps5c2f2347.jpg

I plan to do a little under ice beaver trapping. Last year I used baited conibears and had some success. This year I plan to try some snares. I've copied an idea from Rally Hess, a big numbers beaver trapper in the states.

http://i1371.photobucket.com/albums/...sebxkossi.jpeg

5/64 7x7 "beaver spikes" it's a snare and support all in one. Drive the spike in your bait pole and run a safety cable through it and you're done.

That's a good video by Ryan as usual. My only concern would be he will get snared beavers up on the ice if the hole doesn't freeze quickly in warm weather.

I'm as green as they come snaring beaver but using such a large hole is contrary to the research I've done in preparation. Thoughts on that?

I'm as green as you are, but since I don't have a chainsaw to cut through the ice I'll be making smaller cut outs also. I plan on using an ice auger for initial holes then spud or axe to open up completly.

You're in for a workout! Have you got good spuds? Luckily it's been warm this year, I noticed some runs in front of lodges were open a couple weeks ago. I bought a 28 inch bar for my saw this year but it doesn't look like I will need it.

I had issues last year with a 20 inch bar even in the runs, I could cut some places but not a lot of bar to spare. (In March)

It's a great day today, I think I will go make a few beaver sets this afternoon.

Save your pennies on the camlocks , Absolutely not necessary Use the Adams lock , They will hold them by the foot , the nose etc. Cheaper and reusable . I always use 1/16 and have lost one neaver under ice in my lifetime ! Too close to the house , and got an air pocket .
In good hard spruce you may use a fence staple and no way is that animal coming out! remember under water they dont have four wheel drive anymore . I use the clover leaf method and it works for me away from the feedbed . Baiting works better under ice after the food cach starts to sour .
always tie off to the top of the ice . In mild weather they can come up to the top of the ice thenm you have problems , That is whby I use a dry pole sunk real good in the bottom . Coyotes love the easy meals LOL

The reasoning behind my choice of 5/64 is that it's supposed to leave a less significant snare mark yet still provide good extremity catches.

There's some really great beaver snaring threads over on Trapperman.

I'm not suggesting you change your setup Parfleche, I'm just explaining my choice.

Yes I will admit that I don't think it will be easy, but I'm only planning on perhaps 2 snare and 1 connibear set.

This time of year right after yote season is done is perfect. Their food beds are getting sour. As someone said the green plastic leaf wired to your bait. This time of year is great for whacking beaver. Around here on some of the creeks you can find where beavers chewed out of the ice because their beds are bad or all eaten up. I should be putting out some sets myself here right soon.

I went and set a lodge this afternoon. Two baited conibears and one snare pole.

http://i1371.photobucket.com/albums/...sqliwzrpm.jpeg

http://i1371.photobucket.com/albums/...soikxphp4.jpeg


A comparison of ice thickness on a run right next to the house versus around the feed pile.

http://i1371.photobucket.com/albums/...spl60mok2.jpeg

http://i1371.photobucket.com/albums/...psztd1plsy.png

http://i1371.photobucket.com/albums/...smxuwyllc.jpeg

I set a beaver run with just snare poll today. First time doing this was a lot of work. Thought I found the run around the feed pile but I was wrong cut that whole for nothing. Can't believe how much ice is out there.

Last year I think I cut more dud holes than I did good ones. I was happy with only one dud today.

Soon under ice beaver might loose a grade at the auction. Known as late prime. Singed. Expect to not make as much per pelt. Trappers should attempt to take animals at their best prime if possible. Then Alberta trappers are known for top grade quality fur.

Be safe and careful on the ice around beaver houses any time of the winter.

Now rats should be getting nice.

Great thread filled with a lot of excellent info and pictures.....perfect! :sHa_shakeshout:

I figured that I had everything on hand and was ready to go but......I forgot about the 16" bar on my chainsaw! :sign0161: I'm going to pick up a 28" bar like you suggested TFNG. I like that setup with the nail as well, it looks a lot easier than farting around with wire all the time. What size of double ferrel did you use for it? I'm going to forget about getting cam locks like Parfleche recommended (thank you) and maybe go with a sturdier lock like yours TFNG.

I agree that Ryan's holes looks a lot bigger than what should be required and I'm thinking that half that size ought to work fine just like in the pictures above. Do you fellas just leave them open or do you shovel some snow into them? I saw somewhere that you didn't want the sun shining down on the snares and it was better to cover the holes. I was actually thinking about putting a couple of pieces of scrap plywood over top and shovelling snow on them. Waste of time?

TFNG, will a beaver fit up that slit in the ice or will you have to do some chopping?

:sign0087:

In cold weather the hole won't freeze as quickly if its covered. And beavers might be light sensitive to an open hole.

TFNG... the snare pole set using a slot in the ice.. Aren't you concerned with chainsawing or cutting into a caught beaver when opening a hole in the slot set? Do you find that your snare pole freezes in quicker too?

I can't say, that's the first snare pole I've ever set up. Cutting up a beaver is a concern but I'll just have to be careful and see how it goes. I've got a good pick that will remove large chunks of ice if there's a hole there. We're not making much ice here right now. I don't want a snared beaver up on top of the ice, that's why I didn't make a big hole.

Hunter Dave that's a 1/8 ferrule. I drilled one side bigger to accept a 20d common nail. I read somewhere that the light makes the bait pole more visible lol!! It's not that cold so I'm not too worried about how much ice will build. I was kind of worried about taking over your thread.

This is just the way I decided to go about it after doing my research. Things will change as I gain experience I'm sure. I'm learning as I go.

A worthwhile read for a new under ice beaver trapper I think.
http://www.trapperman.com/forum/ubbt...pics/2319353/3

You'll be able to get some runs opened up with that 16 inch bar Dave. There was only 5 inches of white ice in the lodge entrance today. Around 17-18 near the feed pile.

Read some of Boco's posts on beaver trapping on Trapperman as well. He seems to give out solid advice and trapped ADC beaver for years as well as running a beaver heavy trapline.

Don't worry about taking over the thread, this is exactly the kind of input that I was hoping for! :happy0034:

I like your snare setup with the nail and I think that I prefer that system over tying wire all the time. Your slot in the ice is interesting as well but I think that I'm going to try something a little different. Tomorrow I have to pull some snares and I'm going to take my ice auger with me and drill a bunch of holes to find the runs. Once I find them I'm going to put a stick in the hole so I know where it is and I can use it to lift the chunk of ice out if it freezes in firmly enough.

Maybe I'll post pictures up to get input about where I plan on placing my feed poles/snares so I avoid putting one in the sewer run....lol.

EDIT - I'll know the ice thickness after I drill tomorrow.

Take your saw as well. I walk around and plunge cut with the tip to measure ice thickness. I'm glad you're taking your auger not mine lol. Make sure you've got a good grip I'm not sure how hard it will grab when it hits wood.

OUCH!!! Another obvious thing that I never thought of. Might have to rent or borrow a chainsaw for a couple hours. Does cutting through ice harm/dull/damage the chain more then cutting through wood?

I know from experience that cutting ice and water is hard on the inner bearing in the clutch. I had to replace mine after using it for cutting ice. I'm greasing it more often and will see how that works out. I'd borrow a saw but only from a really good friend....

Have you got conibears? I'm certain you could get a hole opened up in the entrance of a house easily with a spud. The one yesterday I could put my spud through the ice in one shot. Gang set the entrance and collect your beaver. Trapping beaver in the entrance supposedly can make the rest of the colony shy, if you just want one or two beaver go for it.

Edited to add. Not all saws have a way of greasing that bearing without taking the clutch apart. My Husqvarna has a grease port through the end of the crankshaft.

This is what I'm talking about Waterninja. Thanks to Boco!

http://www.trapperman.com/forum/ubbt...ce#Post4369941

Well, unless someone wants to come out with me and use thier chainsaw in exchange for bear bait, I would rent instead of borrow. Only plan on cutting 2 holes so shouldn't do any damage, but would hate to have to replace a buddies chainsaw.

I am no expert but I suggest a bigger hole it sure pis ses a guy off when you gotta cut a bigger hole when you get a catch and the spud or saw goes down the back of a little valued beaver pelt. If you have a big hole cover it with snow fill the hole up. The snow will insulate the water and won't freeze as quick. I have never tried the plywood I'll giver a try.