How to choose new arrows?
 

As I ease myself into hunting again this year, I've picked up my bow again. I think I'll take it out for grouse this year and get some practice with it before trying it on big game.

I have a bunch of Carbon Express STL Hunter arrows, 300gr and 200gr shafts. A few of them need new fletching. I do want to stock up on some new arrows as well. Should I stick with Carbon Express or are there are brands I should be looking for? I'm assuming I should pick a grain weight as well and not switch back and forth between 200 and 300. Any suggestions on which one I should go with for grouse this year and maybe deer next season?

Are you talking spine? The 200 and 300 grain comment doesn’t make sense.

Best you post your bow specs and what length you expect to cut your arrows to as well as the proposed tip weight you plan on shooting.

I'm assuming that's spine weight, are arrows not measured in grains? The arrows have a numerical designation, either 300 or 200 on them. They're 27 1/4" from insert to end of nock. My broadheads are Muzzy brand with 100 (grains?) marked on them. I have small game heads that are the same weight.

My bow is a Bowtech Equalizer, 2008 or 2009 vintage. I believe the draw weight is 50lbs, but it's been so long I can't remember for sure. No idea what the draw length is.

Sorry for the dumb questions, I've been out of the archery thing for a long time. Might I be best served by taking it all down to a local archery shop and having them give everything the once over?

Your 200 and 300 numbers refer to spine not wieght. How ever it is not the actual spine just a Carbon Express reference number. It would be my guess you will want to find arrows in the 400 spine range. If I were you I would look for a heavy for spine type arrow. Also take your bow to a shop and get it looked over and have your draw weight checked. You might even only need a 500 spine arrow. Good luck and I hope you get some birds.

Not dumb questions. You’re just a little off the mark. Coil nailed it for you. The 200 and 300 designate spine of the shaft. Or stiffness if you will. Each one of those shafts will have a number followed by “gpi”. That number designates grains per inch of arrow. Best to actually weigh them but you can get a close figure of the weight by multiplying the length of your arrow by the gpi measurement. Add 100gr for your point and whatever weights for your insert, fletchings, nock and cresting if they are applied.

I don’t have an arrow chart handy but 200 and 300 seems excessively over spine based on your draw length and weight as well as components. Not necessary as the information is all out there but you might be better off taking it to a shop. Ask lots of questions. Get the info soaking into the thinker.

Thanks for the info guys! Looks like I have lots of research and a trip to the archery shop ahead of me. :)

Best thing I ever did when I was new (I still am, lol) was walk into Jom Bows in Edmonton.

They quickly fixed my bow a big box store had setup all wrong. Set me up with arrows cut just for me. And off I went.

A small fee with use of the range and a small lesson on form. It was awesome. Hopefully GP has a show with similar service!?

Yep, there's a dedicated archery store in town. Big Timber Archery. I haven't had a chance yet to get in though due to work and life getting in the way.

Carbon express numbers don’t refer to the actual spine, their numbering system is essentially backwards compared to the other major manufacturers.

This....

The Maximum Red 150 is actually a .500 spine. Your arrows aren't produced anymore so you might find the info on the internet or you might need to contact FeraDyne Outdoors. If you are able to take it a reputable shop like Jimbows they will be able to inspect the bow and string and might even be able to determine what the arrows are for you.

Take your bow to Big Timber in GP. Gord will get you all sorted out.