1300$ long range rifle ?
 

I am in the market for a new rifle. I would like to get in to long range shooting.

I have done some research and asked bass pro and cabelas what they thought would be a good set up for this after searching and some consideration I have decided to start with this set up

Savage 10t tactical in a 308 and 5r rifling
Vortex vrossfire ll in a 6-24x50ao th bcc
Vortex tac 30mm rings
Caldwell xla bipod

This brings me to about 1300$

I guess the question is about the rifling
With about another 150$ I can get the savage 10t sr that has the ability to get a mussle break and has 1:10 rifling

Would not having this make or break this set up ?

This is my first new rifle and I'm really not to sure what way I should go

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Muzzle brakes suck, not so much for the shooter, but more so for others around you. Plus a single shot without hearing protection may leave you with irreversible hearing damage.

It's a .308 in a heavy rig, so it's not like you'll be getting pushed around with it.

To me it looks like a great place to start, nothing ventured nothing gained.

I don't have any savage rifles but guys do like them. 308 is a good choice with lots of ammo to choose from. If going long range I'd recommend hand loads. If you can swing it in the budget I would look into a different scope. Optics are very important depending what you consider long range. Scope needs to dial up and down consistently with good glass. In the more mid range I would look at the Sightron S3 8-32x56 or NF SHV. Possibly the gen 2 vortex PST. Also look into high BC bullets in the 168-175 gr weight.

Muzzle brake on a .308? :kick:

All my long range rigs have brakes on them. Yes even my 15 lb 6.5x47. You need to spot your own hits. I know some guys hate them. I wouldn't shoot without one. Remove it if F class in in your future. Also at least a 10 twist to shoot the heavies.

Agree with Beeman on looking for a different scope.

What is the moa on that rail?
I see that your scope only has 40moa of adjustment. That's not a lot. If the rail is 20 moa, this would be an issue.

Anyhow, as for your scope, these are a few features that I would want.
- more vertical adjustment.
- side focus ..... it's way nicer when shooting prone.
- better glass

I am frugal. If I had a spare scope at home, I'd run with that while saving for a new scope for my long range rig.

IMHO, the rifle is the least important part of a long range kit.
I have had VERY good results with Savage 10 / 110 series rifles including several in 308W, (but have avoided AXIS models)

To provide proper suggestion, we need to know the twist rate, muzzle dia, and length of the barrels you are considering.
Faster, larger and longer are usually better for long range.
Does the +$150 rifle have an Accustock? or are both plain tupperware?

I have both plain and fluted Savage barrels, when cleaning with a tight patch, the bore under the fluting feels larger. I suspect this is due to the button rifling. If I had the choice I would prefer a non-fluted barrel, but my fluted button rifled barrels shoot very well.

I have never owned a Caldwell bipod, but have examined and shot off of several.
I would advise you to shoot off your day-pack,
until you can afford to buy a HES-BRM Harris swivel with notched legs, (then add an aftermarket swivel lock lever).
Spend the Caldwell bipod money on an EGW or similar 20moa P-rail, and mount it CAREFULLY aligned and epoxy bedded.
I also suggest an inexpensive rail mounted bubble level such as the T1006 (~$20) branded by B Squared and Sun Optics.

I admit I am a glass snob who considers optical quality the best place to obtain performance, particularly at long range.
Unfortunately your budget does not have room for quality optics. Plan to upgrade any low end scope as funds allow.
Try to find one with side adjustable parallax, and turrets and reticle accurately calibrated in MOA or MILr
(but AVOID any with mixed units ie MOA turrets with MILDOT reticle)
I suspect bcc is a 'bullet drop compensating' reticle, and STRONLY suggest you avoid any turrets or reticles calibrated in units of range.

Good Luck, YMMV.

Bingo.

It will take you a while to get the rest of your kit (including loading) operational.
By then you will have a much better knowledge of the kind of scope you want.

Good Luck, YMMV.

Avoid a scope with a BDC reticle for shooting long ranges

You can't be certain what load that reticle is designed for and conditions that day

Choose one with simple hash Marks for hold overs

The 10t sr is aluminum bedded the cheaper one is piller bedded

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The Accustock has an aluminum bedding block the full length of the receiver,
and a metal extension under the fore-stock to increase rigidity and provide one or often two solid mounting studs for a bipod.
IMHO it is an improvement,
or you can plan to replace the tupperware with a Boyds Pro Varmint laminated wood stock which will cost significantly > $150.
AFAIK, most Accustock models also have an Accutrigger, which usually are easier to adjust for lower release force.

I suspect it also has a barrel that is 2" longer and is possibly heavier.
The SR (suppressor ready) threaded barrel option may be useful for mounting a brake or other aid.
Savage brakes are not expensive and would give you the option to try a brake.

Good Luck, YMMV.

I have that rifle, it shoots great as would be expected. I just don't like the oversize bolt handle, I'd trade for a standard one.