Traditional archery question ( arrow )
 

Hi so I have a problem.start with back ground.
For last 12 yrs I had been shooting a take down recurve it's 62 amo at 50lbs with my draw ( 30) it worked out to I believe just under 55lbs and I shoot a 2317 camo hunter aluminum arrow with a 300 gn point think total weight is around 753 gn,
Few months ago I finally broke down and bought a long bow it's 68 amo at 45 lbs and useing 2117 camo hunter aluminum arrows with a 200gn point total weight is 640 gn and there four feather flech ( loving that part ) it was my dream set up I'd been toying with for years and it works great I shoot it better then my old recurve and even with the lower draw weight seems be faster and penetrate better, now here's the thing I bought 100 arrows so I have a stock pile, but I do miss the take down convieance of being able to just put in my day pack and walk with it then set up when I'm in my rabbit area.
So what lb recurve would I need to get to be able to use the same arrows with it ? I tryed out my old recurve and that was not a good plan arrows all over the place.
So yep just wondering what lb recurve will use those arrows. Any help be greatly appreciated.

tough call - but another option.
 

It depends on the bow.

you can tune a bow to shoot a different spined arrow if you want. I tuned my longbow and recurves to shoot the same arrow.

here are variables you have to play with
point weight - less weight on the point increases the spine.
nock weight - more weight on the nock increases the spine
brace height - with a recurve this changes the noise profile of the bow quite a bit.
thickness of strike plate - thicker effectively reduces spine. reduces the
nock height _ - depends on radius of the shelf.

My vote is to drop the brace height on the recurve (within the parameters of the bows manufacturer.
decrease point wieght out of the recuve
If you have a strike plate- see if you can thin it out.

all trade offs.

do some reading on tuning and you will find you have lots of choices. play with one variable at a time starting with the easy/cheap ones.

re reading your post - arrows all over the place tells me you might have an easy fix by dropping the brace height on the recurve. for what you are trying to do it depends on the recurves center cut.

Just going to buy a new recurve. So more or less just wondering what lb bow I should get 40-45-50-55-60 to work with those arrows. I have points here from 225 to 400 so I can play with points easy

this should help
 

Tag

2117 is a pretty stiff arrow, you should be able to get it to fly from the recurve. It depends a lot on what your centre shot is on the bow. If it's closer to centre (probably) and with stiff arrows and light points it might work....or it'll be cantankerous and you might have to build out the side plate with a bit of Velcro to make it work. Personally I have several dozen 2117 and I rarely use them, they're way too stiff for me.

dynamic spine clacs
 

I got a dynamic spine of 48lbs and change with his 225 grain points.

a 40lb recurve cut past center with a thicker strike plate gets close at his draw length. a little shorter brace height should do it. with the heavy arrows the bow shouldn't be too loud but depends on the bow.

Try a lighter tip, 165 maybe or even 140, and check your brace height.
Too high and you will stack too quickly but too low and you will get noise and the arrow possibly staying with the string too long, making it fish tale.
Cat

wow. The question is like what car will fit my tires or if a V8 is a good size.

arrows all over is usually 2 things. Spine, and nock height.

I would address nock height first. Start by moving it up a bit at a time to eliminate the up down part of the spread or down, depending on what happened.

Spine will show as shooting left or right of center. If you are right hand, hitting right of center is weak spine unless you are massively stiff and getting a false weak showing. Hitting left is stiff . {opposite for left hand shooter.
Correct weak spine by adding thickness to the side plate , and or lighter points and or shortening the shaft as a last resort .

Correct stiff spine with heavier points, thinner strike plate .

Brace height can help in fine tuning.

I don't use alloy shafts and am not much help in if the ones you have will be stiff or weak. Usually alloy arrows do not respond well with very heavy points, carbons recover faster and do respond well.

As to what weight bow will work there is no answer. Each bow has different performance, a flat head Ford is not the same as Hemi, but both are a V8.

String type has a big effect, amount of center cut has a big effect.

Look for a contact when you shoot, is it hitting the shelf, side plate? making a noise??

Could be something as simple as a different grip style as well .
G.Fred Asbell once commented in one of his books that the particular arrows his friend used and shot well were all over the map for him, even though they used thee same bow.
Different grip and anchor.
Cat

I returned to Recurve archery last year, it has been the most fun and rewarding activity that accompanies many of the other outdoor things I take on.

I started off with a frugal take-down 35lb PSE Heritage Razorback that has been working good,,, a mid price Olympic class bow is coming my way from Lancaster Archery.

It will be a bare bow set-up less a plastic arrow rest and a home made Yost Mojo weight, 11.6oz.

Other then that it's sight in and go after the gopher this spring.

Nothing like loosing arrows in the weeds. LOL

Don