Which fixed broadheads fly close to field points
 

I have heard that some folks say that if your bow is tuned properly, any broadhead; whether it is fixed or mechanical will fly and have the same point of impact as field points. That has not been my experience, at least with two types of fixed broadheads (Montec G5 & Drone) that I have tried.

Like to hear your experience as far as which fixed broadhead flies closes to your field points. Thanks.

My widow makers fly very close to my field tips out of my tuned prime

Tooth of the arrow has flown consistently well for me out of my tunes SR6 Bowtech. Groups with the field points every time.

Slick Tricks were my go too before switching to Grizzly Sticks. The Slick Tricks flew great. The Grizzly Sticks are single bevel's and require a well tuned bow, but man, do they penetrate.

If you’re broadheads are not flying with your field points then your bow is not tuned or your form is poor plain and simple. Go to mechanicals or work on form and tuning. How do you know your bow is on tune?

I’ve had good luck with G5 montecs, M3s, stricter, slick tricks, tooth of the arrow, annihilators, and a couple others.

Which fixed broadheads fly close to field points
 

The ones you spend the time tuning to fly like your field points, some are easier to tune than others and sometime your bow is set up well enough they just shoot.

Some broadheads are not worth the tuning effort.

If your not sure buy or try borrow one of each and see what works.

Slick trick mag, and g5 striker.

Now that is with a perfectly tuned bow, sub 300 fps, heavy arrows with high foc (I don’t have the numbers on me right now), and spin testing every arrow/broadhead combination.

I posted a broadhead review on here a while back, check that out.

http://www.outdoorsmenforum.ca/showthread.php?t=261688

You are right that certain broadheads will not shoot well out of certain setups regardless of tune. Longer heads with fewer blades and smaller vents are the most finicky. I do NOT screw with my tuning to shoot a certain broadhead, that’s bass ackwards thinking. Nor do I ever practice with my hunting heads. I keep the ones that have been used in critters to practice with.

And I don’t shoot mechanicals because they all break, fail, or cause too much resistance to pass through.

Montec g5 fly true for me.

I also use the g5 Montecs. They hit right with my field points, and as an added bonus they are relatively easy to sharpen to a polished razor edge, and are pretty tough as well.

Thanks for your response. I never used Mechanicals until last year and always sighted in my bow based on my G5's but the issue with that is that first all, you can't shoot groups and second, shooting field points and broadhead at the same time is not a confidence builder when the POI is not the same. I switched to SEVR mechanicals (1.5" titanium) and they fly true to the same POI as my field points AND I can practice with them by just locking the set screw.

You’re not the first to have trouble with montecs. Some love em some hate em. But switching to mechanicals isn’t the answer because you could be masking a tuning problem.

I’d pick up the slick tricks, a spin tester and a grain scale if you don’t have them (you need them anyway). If they weigh within +/- 3gr of whatever your field points are, and spin right, they should go into the same POI. If they don’t, something is off and it’s not the broadheads. Probably time to head into jimbows and have them sort it out, save yourself a lot of frustration.

Slick trick viper tricks... I've shot muzzy, monetec and slick tricks standards but the viper tricks are unreal close to field point.

Agree on the form and mechanics of your shooting. If I have a good true release, the shot is perfect, if not, you'll left or right. It doesn't take much and when you're Practicing the focus on mistakes is amplified.


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I do my own tuning. I have slick tricks and Magnus Blackhornets. I could screw either head on have the same POI as my field points out to 80 yards. I have found that with fixed blades, form and having a clean release has a huge affect on POI. If i don't do my part, it will look like the broadheads are not flying correctly downrange.

What bow are you shooting and what is the difference in the points of impact at 30 yards? Example: BH is 3" left and 2" low of FP.

I had a very similar problem as the OP as I got into archery last season. After a bit of research tuning seemed to be my issue. Set up a cardboard box with a hole cut in it and paper sheet attached to the box in front of my foam target. My paper rips went from hug tears indicating sideways motion to eventual bullet holes and hitting straight on.

To get this result all it took was moving the arrow rest about a 1/32” and voila. Clean tears on paper and broadheads within 1/2” of my field points out to 40 yards.

As many others have pointed out my own form or lack thereof at times is the biggest factor in my wild or inconsistent shots. With practice I can feel it now before the arrows even hit the target when I punch the release instead of nice easy pull with index finger or look to see the impact and not stay still and follow through after the shot.

Lastly if you’re on the fence about paper tuning, getting it right will have a positive impact on your arrow penetration on big game and that is worth all the effort in adjustments and tuning.


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I wish there was a magic broadhead that negated bad form and tune but I have yet to find one. Good form and tune will get all heads to shoot with field points, some are worse then other but it’s very possible.

Keep in mind, if you move your sight based off of broadhead impact you creat another issue. Your arrows are not flying straight out of your bow and once that arrow hits its target it looses so much Performance and can result in poor penetration and lost animals.

People say screw on a mechanical and call it good. Your just masking a larger problem.

Learn to do some basic tune and you will be better for it.

They don't seem to get a lot of love, but I've had excellent results with Ram Cats. Shoot same place as my field points and I'm the guy that doesn't have perfect form all the time.

Killed a few animals with them including moose and elk. Always die very fast and penetration is great.

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for me, Wasp Boss flew the best.

Tooth of the Arrow doesnt screw into my insert enough for my liking. They flew pretty good too.

I used kudopoints in 125 with bleeders. They fly great. And with all cut on contact BH’s you should always sharpen them.

X2 for kudu. Qad exodus also fly great. But again almost anything will fly out of a tuned bow.

from the little bit i know and have read, get a arrow spinner and spin your broadheads to see how true they are. the more the wobble the more they do random things

Shoot a 3 group with field points, then with the BH you want, see how they group, get out the Allen key, and start tiny movements to your rest , and shoot both groups again. Make corrections for elevation and windage 1 at a time, reshooting the groups as you go. They may not move the way you wanted because you moved the rest the wrong way, move it the other way . When they impact together, adjust the sight to bring you back on the bull.

Now add in a second or third broadhead and repeat as above but with all 3 this time, and so on and so on.

Instead of slicing up arrows and busting blades, I use a separate target for each group.

If all points and BH are the same weight you should be able to easily bring the different arrows together. It just takes time. I liked to do this at 30 yards.

Stick bows are so much simpler.

Slicktricks [emoji457]

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Don’t forget to “nock tune” your fixed blade head arrows… it can make a huge difference and you will realize that not all components and arrows go together in a way that they are tunable.

LC

this is great advice. i’m new to a lot of this and between spinning my broadheads and even field poins to see what’s spinning true and nock tuning a lot of my poor groups have gotten much tighter.

i have numbered my arrows to help me keep track of the “bad ones” after 3-5 shots if they done “get better” i spin the nock now

Arrow flight
 

If there is ever a doubt in arrow flight, shoot 100gr field points. If they are hitting dimes shoot Innerloc Shapeshifter. Shoots exactly with a FP. I had a bow that was all over the place and being a bit impatient that was a fix for me.