Bare shaft tuning question
 

Okay so it's more than one question but there are some things I am curios about. After messing around with my rest a bit during last fall in a failed attempt to broadhead tune I gave up and just sighted to were my broadheads were. Now with the new year I decided I should re tune the bow completely. I chose the bare shaft tuning method because it is the easiest for me given what I have to use and shoot into. I have my bow almost completely tuned except there is a fishtail in the bare shaft that kicks it to the left about 4 to 6 inches at 15 yards. The first thing I thought to do was move the rest to correct this just as you would paper tuning. When I did this I got the bare shafts to move to the correct spot but the problem is that the fleched arrows moved just as far away as the bare shafts moved. I am wondering if there is a different adjustment I should be doing on the bow or if it is because my arrows are to stiff that I cannot get the groups together. If the arrows are to stiff would raising the point weight be enough to correct this( if so by how much) or do I need lighter spined arrows.

What poundage are you shooting,and what spine are your arrows?

It's a 60 pound bow with400 spine arrows cut 26 and a half inches not including the nock.

Changing points is the easiest and cheapest way to see if your spine is weak or stiff.

What kind of bow? You can yolk tune if you have the means. Excessive cam lean can case this too.

As far as spine goes it's waaay better to be stiff than soft, especially if you have a drop away rest, from my experience, especially if you want to fly fixed blades.

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It is an apa sidewinder he2. Haven't played with yoke tuning at all any tips?

:D Couple of things...First off your way to far from target...At 15 yards the arrow can kick right leaving bow and impact left at 15 yards ...you want to read what the arrow is doing as it leaves bow...at 3 yards..

I like to paper tune as the added weight of vanes effects flight as well as steering and spine...the paper tune will tell you much more with actual arrow...even a newspaper hung with big paper clip or fletching clamp for weight works......

Start with rest/arrow centered on berger [arrow rest bolt hole on riser] and arrow 13/16 from riser...

not knowing rest..if drop away Timing has a lot to do with flight...

The easist and most accurate way to check spine without using all kinds of different arrows is to simply turn down limb bolts...turn each limb bolt one complete turn...read arrow...turn out each limb bolt another complete turn shoot....etc up to 5 turns if maxed out on most model bows...


One will need press for most bow to yoke tune...except for APA duel cams...

Yoke tune is simply adjusting Idler Lean for you...
twist bows left yoke one turn..shoot- read-twist one..etc only a couple turns as one can lean cam/idler so much quickly that string can derail with any bow torque...untwist bows right yoke as bows right yoke usually has twice as many twist as bows left side...

couple things to look at...

Neil

You should be plenty stiff on your arrow spine which is a good place to be. I never worry too much as long as the arrow spine is stiff enough. The two factors are now the shooter or the bow. Bareshafts don't lie about the bow or the shooter.

At 15 yards where do the BS impact in relation to the fletched? Saw that the kick left so I am assuming they impact right?

Move your rest back to spec for centershot so its not pointing way left or way right. Check your cam lean at brace, lay an arrow on the non-module side of the top and bottom cams. Having a slight lean of the arrow towards the string top and bottom is a good starting point as the cams will straighten out at full draw due to cable load.

If bow is in spec, good arrow spine, I try and start with me/shooter. Draw length may be long or a grip issue. With the bow at a good starting point, do some shooting. Play with some pressure changes in your grip, try a little more thumb or hand side pressure. I think you'll be able to learn some stuff about you as a shooter. And with a bareshaft you can actually physically see the difference little changes make. If your confident in yourself as the shooter we can look to the bow:)

Bow time! Yoke tuning saves lots of tuning headaches imo. Its easy and usually takes small changes to get the desired result!

If BS impacts left, tail right,- add twists to the right yoke or remove from the left

If BS impacts right, tail left - add twist to the left yoke or remove from the right

Whatever you do, do the same to the top as the bottom and it should work well:)

Thanks everyone for the tips my bow is tuned better than ever. Can't wait to fletch up my arrows and see how it changed broadhead flight.