Flooring renos - tips for pulling up subfloor?
 

We are in the works of replacing some tile flooring with hardwood. The tiles I expect will pop up with little problem, but I'm concerned about pulling up the subfloor. It will be glued and stapled if its like our ensuite was which was a nightmare to get out. Basically cam out in toothpicks. Much bigger area this time in the kitchen. Does anyone have any tips/tricks/recommendations to rip this subfloor up? I plan to skill saw a bunch of small squares I think but hoping there is a better way. Anyone looking for a job to do this weekend? LOL

thanks for any and all tips.

CDN

in the middle of it now
we just put a new glued and screwed subfloor on top, expensive but better and much quicker

Did the same thing. Pulled up carpet in the living room that transitioned to tile in the front entry way. I redid the fasteners in the old subfloor to get rid of the squeeks, and put new 1/4" over. That was a few years ago, so I didn't have to host a garage sale to finance the purchase of the wood! :sHa_sarcasticlol:

Sounds like a nightmare. I know of a flooring contractor who vastly under bid
a job like this, then subbed it off piece work to another party. He did exactly what you did and walked off the job after three days. :lol: Best option would be to leave the sub floor if possible.

Grizz

Mine wasnt easy either. Nails, staples and glue. I used two pry bars. Lift then capture. Lift then capture. Labour intensive but it worked. Best of luck.

Wondering how a floor sander with the roughest grit would work?

Elbow Grease
 

I agree with Antmai
We (wife and I) pulled ours up and in some areas they had two layers for the transitioning to tile
24", 36" and a large pry bar were required
thought i'd try an ice scraper but broke the handle lol

Best, easiest, and fastest is to burn the house down.

If that's not an option, as far as I know, getting glued and nailed subfloor up easy is impossible. Haven't seen an option yet that avoids removing it a square inch at a time.

As a former flooring installer for many years in my younger days in a past life I can only give one hint - lots and lots and lots of 'elbow grease'!

agreed. I'm still sore 8 years after my reno.

We had a tougher learning experience
 

Guy at home depot told us 20 years ago their vinyl plank flooring interlocked with adhesive and could be placed right on concrete. Was he wrong. Looked like he double hockey sticks in under 10 year with adhesive edges letting go & any rough area or crack wearing through the vinyl except on the plywood raised portion of washroom. Pulled vinyl, sounds like same labor intensity you are experiencing. Did some research to avoid plywood sub floor and settled on 2 x 2 foot squares of interlocking plastic which actually has 3/8 area beneath to allow floor to breath and condensation escape. Dribarrier is not cheap at $3600 for 1800 sq feet but i will never have go do anything else to it. Wont help you pull up but avoid installing it.

That made me laugh so hard my wife thought I lost my marbles .....

and ironically, you are probably right - that is the single worst, back breaking, frustrating work you can do in a reno.

If there is ANY way to overlay and level the floor - that may be the best option, although that could impact your rise height on any adjacent stairs - so there is that to consider.

You also don't want to end up with a 3" thick floor of multiple sub floor layers.

Get a pry bar, skill saw and a bag cocaine - strip down to your underwear, put on some techno music and turn the heat up to max - without sleep, and doing lines every 20 minutes, you could have it done in 5 maybe 6 days. Just like College - same thing really.

Problem is the coke will cost you 20 grand .... so maybe just cheaper to hire it out. (and you don't risk dying of a heart attack or getting arrested) :)

I use a grinder with a diamond cup to remove thin set from plywood. Need a good vacuum and dust attachment for the grinder.

Something like this
https://canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/maxim...-0541392p.html

Handheld plug in power planer,3" wide remove 1/8 each pass.Messy, loud. I haven't tried but would make it easier.

This, use a shroud like this and a good vacuum.

https://www.amazon.ca/DEWALT-DWE4615...92009004&psc=1

No way around the fact that it's very labor intensive.

Grizz

Yep

Not that bad with a grinder. I can do a bathroom in under an hour

That price seems pretty crazy for a piece of plastic though. Not saying this is not how much it actually costs, just that it seem overly expensive.

I have to remove this layer of subfloor to get it down to the same height to match the existing hardwood which sits on top of the 3/4" plywood above the floor joists.
I considered pouring level quick but then I would be way higher than my existing floor.
I used a Hilti jack hammer type unit today (my plumber lent it to me) Had a 4-5" wide spade bit and man did it ever make quick work of the tiles. Popped most of them up whole, some came off in pieces but did about 400 sp ft in less than 2 hours. Kids were packing tiles out and didnt take too long. Tmrw I will try this thing and see if it will get in between the sub floor and 3/4" plywood but I'm not holding my breath.
I need a few hungry hard working young lads for this job... LOL
Thanks for all the replies.

Just as CDNOutdoorsman said, a small hilti jackhammer with a wide spade bit works the best. I did a bathroom and large kitchen area in our rental last spring this way. By far the best option IMO. I tried first with pry bar and hammer and got frustrated pretty quickly.

I've pulled a few subfloors and found the best way is to cut between the joists (beware of mechanical systems) and pry off in sections. Don't make the sections too small. Two foot lengths is a pretty manageable size.

I was hoping to read a better way here..one day I just might try a match...

I know a few guys mentioned a planer or floor grinder ...... just a question .... does that work if there are nails, staples and screws all over the floor? I envision the blade/drum/belt getting torn up really quickly??? (never mind the dust, noise and the time that would take).

just a curious question based on other peoples experiences ....

I've always either leveled it (if that was an option) or removed (saw and pry bars in sections).

Pending what year it was put on,staples no problems sure youll ding up blades but it saves labor. Big floor sanders wont get tore up. I think its like 20 grit belt so quite durable.
Screws youd have to try and remove,those should be on joists so easy to stay away from.

I believe eagleflyfisher on here does hardwood refinishing,maybe he'll see this.