Fixed or mechanical
 

My bow shoots both equally well....and I know all about shot placement., I limit my shots to 40 yds. At 55 lbs draw weight which broadhead would you use ? Slicktrick or Grim Reaper , both are 100 gr.

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At 55lbs, I would go fixed personally.

LC

Should have added ..this is for elk.

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As much as I like Grim Reapers, for elk at 55lbs....go fixed IMHO.

LC

Yup!

I use 100 grain G5 Strikers, which are fixed, at a 55 pound draw weight. Works great as long as you do your part. I've shot a couple moose and deer with this combo which were all pass throughs so far.

What is your setup for your Grim Reapers Lefty?

390-400gr arrow (complete including the broadhead) 70lbs, 29", 302FPS.

The Grim Reapers are spec'd to have a minimum of 60-65KE to operate properly.

LC

in your case I would also be using slicktricks over the reapers. They are a great head and given your setup think they would have better results. I shoot reapers and If I change it would be to slicks.

Fixed, I'm at 28.5" dl. and 60lbs using thunderheads 100 grain, 400 spline.

What's your arrows splined at ?

If I move up to 62lbs or above dw I go with a 340 spline and switch to 125 grain thunderheads.

Note.. My dl and cam is 28" my arrows are cut to 28.5".

Rage cut on contact rear deploying, the original.

I shoot 100gr slick trick standards with a 390 grain arrow(total weight) at 70lbs and 28" draw at just under 290 fps. Does the trick, if I do my part! I haven't used grim reapers, but I am very partial to fixed blades for the sheer fact that, it's one less thing to malfunction. Also, slick tricks are so small and compact that they fly very similar to my field tips anyways.

Grab a 2 blade Zwickey, a VPA, Cutthroat, helix. Lots of great options that will help you get pass throughs like a dream. Low poundage that is best.

With your setup I would recommend fixed.

arrow length 30 " 385 gr toal weight with broadhead , 29 " draw and 290 fps @ 55#s.. I dont know the formula for K.E. but maybe Im close Lefty? Speed jumps to 302fps at 60 #s but would rather not because of a bad shoulder .

I took down my moose this year with 50lbs draw/Grim reaper whitetail special mechanical head. Moose died right in front of me in less than 60 seconds. Double lung. Also taken a few bear and a couple deer all died quick and clean.

To figure out the kinetic energy of your arrow, this is the formula;

fps2 X Weight of Arrow / 450,240 = Arrow’s Kinetic Energy

In your case;

290fps x 290fps x 385gr = 32,378,500

32,378,500 / 450,240 = 71.91 ft-lbs of Kinetic Energy


If you want to do it the easy way, there is an archery calculator at backcountrybowhunting.com

To answer your original question, use whichever broadhead flies the truest out of your bow as both will work just fine.

The KE spec for minimum 65 ft lbs, is that at the bow or at the distance it hits the animal? Something I always wondered.
I like this calculator.
http://www.bestcrossbowsource.com/cr...ics-calculator
If you're using blazer vanes you can enter 2" length and I believe 0.56" height

If you need help with finding speed, so you can determine KE, this one has been fairly accurate for me.
http://archerycalculator.com/estimate-bow-speed/
I have nothing on my string other than serving and d loop and 15 grains I think is accurate compared to what I chrono'd. I think with kisser button I used 30 grains. I don't have peep

Thx Deezel and kujoseto..

Sorry about the mental lapse, please replace all occurrences of the word
spline with spine (stiffness in general of the arrow shaft) in my previous reply.

Sounds like your fine with KE and total mass weight, just wanted to mention
the importance of how your arrows fair on "Stiffness" because that too would
effect how a mech. might be deflected upon impact due to a arrow on the
soft side of ok. Another reason to do like LC suggested and stay with a fixed
BH.

Also am pretty sure arrow calc. apps. like OT2 give high KE numbers even
above your actual DW at the point the arrow leaves the string.
I have no idea if Rage uses the same reference or they suggest at POI.
Have to contact Rage about that one.

I like the slick trick. Id be too worried about my blades on a mechanical if they got full of snow.

With that weight, I'll go fixed.

Slick Tricks all the way!

I think you would be okay with either. If you're lucky and they group the same maybe just run both. The nice thing about the mechanical is the larger cutting diameter. In my opinion the more cutting you can do the better. If an elk is hit forward in the shoulder it won't matter what you are shooting for heads it wont die. If you hit an elk a little back you might be thankful for a bigger cut. Id say just shoot whatever head you are most comfortable. If you cant have confidence in the penetration of the reapers don't use them. I would think you will be most successful and shoot the best with whatever you have the most confidence in.

-Best of luck.

This was the reason I first started using mechanical heads, with no shock your cutting area is your primary means for inflicting a fatal wound.

All things being equal, at 55 pounds, use the slicks. I had great performance.

Good luck!

I can’t help but think a heavy arrow would offset this requirement a little. Certainly momentum is going to play a role in blades opening, isn’t it?

KE and Momentum are different. Weight always plays in favor of Momentum, but an arrow has neither Momentum or KE once it hits the dirt. There is a balance for everything. With my setup, 460-470 grains seems to be my best KE. Anything lower or higher and the KE drops with the positive or negative fps.

I have been having great success with the Tooth of The Arrow in my testing for this season.

Bareshaft tune at 20 yrds and then walk back tune to 100 yards.

https://i.imgur.com/s80qObF.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/uLKcla9.jpg

LC

Should be good out to 30 eh?
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