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Old 01-02-2019, 03:43 PM
elkhunter11 elkhunter11 is offline
 
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Camrose
Posts: 45,467
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cleanbore View Post
the issue you have , I have already addressed in another post with a sako 85 i had, Heres what I did to solve it; one of the posts is absolutely correct, you have reached your windage limit because of the tapered groove AND clamp design. The further you slide the front ring ahead or back is actually adding or subtracting windage depending on the centreline of your reticle/tube. because the base has a fixed groove on one side and a expandable clamp on the other where the tightening bolt is. So here is what you need to do; look through your scope while holding it against a mirror, lots of light helps. you will see two sets of crosshairs . one is the neutral centre line of your scope with equal amounts of windage adjustment remaining, the other is where you have already adjusted it to. Dial it back until they both match up again. you should now have equal turns on left and right. {adjustment range max available equally in both directions} Once this is done clamp your rear ring on the scope just finger tight for eye relief preference and ensure indexing pin is seated toward stop in receiver. next place your rifle and scope assembly in a cradle or clamp setup and remove the bolt. boresight your bore to a spot you can easily reference with the naked eye while looking through your scope tube. I use a square of electrical tape on a white surface , a distant wall or fence works great.
Next, with the rear ring still snug, but loose enough to allow for side movement of the front objective lens, slide the front optilock up and down the scope tube and in the taper grooves. you will see the vertical reticle move from left to right as you move the ring front and back. Keep the stationary side of the clamp tight against the groove and the clamp side backed off for now. When the positioning is in line with the reference tape/mark, clamp up your front ring and torque all screws, your adjustment is now neutral and you should have full adjustment in both directions.
The OP has a Tikka, which has a straight dovetail unlike the Sako, which uses a tapered dovetail.
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