Quote:
Originally Posted by TreeGuy
Slough Shark, I’m very sorry to hear about your saw troubles. Unfortunately, I believe you’re probably SOL getting warranty work done on a year and a half old product with a ‘consumable’ part failure.
Given the fact you said the saw was cutting a bit reluctantly, what I think may have happened is that your oiler plugged off. A dry chain gets tight and hot fast. After 10 years of running garbage poulins you likely just continued to push through with the far more powerful machine and cooked it without knowing the better. This would explain why there’s no evidence of heat on the brake spring which is a ridiculous diagnosis.
This is of course pure speculation on my part, but is there a build up of residue on the chain, or is it shiny? Has the paint on the bar near the channel chipped off? Does the sprocket at the tip still turn? (It needs to be greased periodically and there’s ports for that).
Another possibility is that the saw ingested something metallic like hay wire that managed to find its way around the crank sprocket and caused huge resistance between the chain and clutch drum.
The best advice I can give off the top of my head is to pull the cover and bar off and try to start it naked. If there isn’t catastrophic internal failure it should run.
Good luck!
Tree
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I just checked the sprocket and it turns freely, As well the paint around the channel is fine, the bar wasn’t pinched. I do recall at least some oil being used, it could possibly have been a less than normal amount to I don’t recall so hard to confirm anything on that, is there a way of knowing if the Oiler is plugged while using it? It all went down on less than a tank of gas and then at oil is always full when I start. Yeah the brake diagnosis is bunk, no sign of heat on the spring, as far as their other possible diagnosis with it being overheated due to using the teeth on front if that does in a saw they need to design a better saw.