Tips: make sure your runners extend a foot or so past shack front and back (way easier to load/unload shack off a trailer)
counter sink and glue puckboard onto base of runners for easier sliding if using wood
I like runners to be at least 6 inch high
For ventalation I bought two 4inch toilet floor flanges drilled 4 inch hole in wall each end shack and screwed and caulked flanges into wall. Then bought two 4 inch cleanouts with screwed lid end and glued in the flanges. You want fresh air unscrew the clean out lids and you get flow through, when you leave screw back on.
I use a third flange/clean out mid shack that I slide my underwater camera through and drill a hole outside to drop camera down. That way I dont tie up an inside fishing hole with camera/cord.Rotational control works right thru wall
I lift shack up with jack all and slide piece of 4x6 under each corner. I start year with 4 inch side and if flood water rises easy to jack up and turn to 6 inch sides for extra clearance
I screw strips of 3/8ths inch plywood skirting along bottom to stop drifting snow and drafts from blasting in under shack, just need a couple screws a side to hold , its just a temporary wind/snow block.
I'm old so cant be horsing or chizeling a heavy stuck shack out of ice or deep snow so I build light. 3/8 plywood walls on 2x3 1/2 inch roof with tin covering and 5/8 floor. shack is 8x6 ft, 2 fishing holes and 5 ft bench. Heated with big buddy propane and I have no problem getting it to 22C even in coldest days. I fish alot outside around it and use it as much for the warm up shelter as fishing inside.
I also attached on hinges and clips a 14x 18 piece of plywood on wall outside that you can fold out and clip in place for use as a small table. Its about 42 inch off ice so great for holding a coleman stove or tackle box outside ( I mentioned Im old I dont like bending over
