Quote:
Originally Posted by nekred
I do the following....
paper tune
walk back tune just as Neil outlined
Then I bare shaft tune.... or broadhead tune for hunting arrows...
For indoor target where I only shot 20 yards (18m) I skip the walkback
For bare shaft on arrows taht willnot have a broadhead (target or 3D arrows with glue in points) I shoot a bare shaft and fletched arrow and ensure my bare shaft arrows and fletched arrows are in same group at 20yards....
With hunting arrows with broadheads I skip bare shaft tune.
I spin broadhead tipped arrows on arrow spinner and verify that there is no wobble and that the tip spins true by bringing a piece of white cardstock (business card) to get ink tipped arrow (black felt) to scribe pattern on cardstock while spinning.... single point = good vs. circle = bad.... Sometimes i get a circle traced where there is no perceptable wobble but I know there is an alignment issue.That arrow then gets field tip glued in and will never be used for broadhead (out of a dozen I usually get 9 broadhead tipped arrows which leaves 3 for hunting camp practice)
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I am Purty much identical... On the last part with broadhead spinning...I use an ASD...Arrow Squaring Device on nock end before fletching ...then on cut shaft...then with red felt pen mark bottom of arrow insert and cut off red for 100% square arrow...makes huge differance come broahead arrow spin...
And just because I am anal about the broadheads...I use ASD to perfectaly index/line them up with vanes...not necessary...but personal preferance...some border line tuned bows may shoot broadhead arrows straighter with indexed heads...
Neil