Quote:
Originally Posted by Abe89
Ive done a very few hides, beever and deer, and have really tried to go simple and cheap by doing home solution crap, all hides are stiff and are simple wall hangers. Fur looks great that way but thats it. Did some reading that a wire wheel set low speed on a drill can thin hides...way too agressive, made for a lot of sewing. As I slowly learn by trial and error by myself (mostly error) my next attempts (two deer, elk, coyote, and hopefully some beaver to come) I’ve picked up a product called liqua-tan, its a 40$ kit with a preservative, tanning oil, and citric acid.
I have been recommended to stretch the hide and as it’s drying/tacky take some sandpaper to it. Will also be picking up a softener agent and sawdust (if someone could further explain the purpose of sawdust and how to drum...?) all supplies are ordered from AAA taxidermy in Calgary. Hopefully that gives some idea.
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A wire wheel will not thin hides very good(they are ok for taking membrane off if your careful) you need a fleshing machine(round knife) to thin it or by hand when it’s dry with a scrapper...sanding helps when the hide is almost completely dry. In order to break a hide with a drum and sawdust you will need a drum with a min of 6ft drop preferred 8ft and 4ft wide with 100lbs of hardwood sawdust. Thin hides like coyote fox and deer etc you don’t need to thin more just flesh really good and follow instructions on the tanning kit. To get beaver tanned nice and soft you need the proper gear or be ready for tons of elbow grease and disappointment lol