Have you tried soaking the connection with penetrating oil?
If not, try soaking, stand auger upright and apply penetrating oil to the auger flyte, and auger transmission output shaft. Kriol is a good penetrant, might be hard to find though, I think sea-foam makes one called deep creep, it works good.
Try to rotate the auger, until you can get it to move slightly, once it starts to move, just keep working it. If you have a vice grip with the chain, for pipe, this will work good to keep the auger powerhead from rotating with the auger flyte.
Be careful with how much heat you apply, once the auger transmission output shaft is the same temp as the outside of the flyte temp, it will be basically size on size, and will be seized.
Ideally you want to make the auger flyte connection, a higher temp than the auger transmission output shaft.
I'm assuming that the bolt has been removed from the auger flyte connection, and did not leave any burrs inside the auger flyte connection area?
Alternatively you can use a couple of flat pry bars on the top edge on the flange of the auger flyte and the bottom of the auger transmission, use some spacer blocks, if the space is to large.
What kind of auger is it?
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