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08-29-2020, 07:04 AM
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Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Calgary
Posts: 941
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Anyone painted a plastic stock?
Any advise would be appreciated as far as type of paint and do's and don'ts.
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08-29-2020, 07:22 AM
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Join Date: Dec 2014
Posts: 148
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Dont waste your time. I'm pretty sure we have all tired it and all come to the conclusion it's a waste of time and money. It never last, doesn't matter if you prepare the stock before paint or even just paint it. It will chip and peel off.
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pitter patter
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08-29-2020, 07:34 AM
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Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Calgary
Posts: 941
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08-29-2020, 07:44 AM
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Banned
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Join Date: Nov 2008
Posts: 821
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I've used spray cans for plastic stocks, with spray can primer. It covered great but is not very durable, if stock comes in contact with anything harder than plastic its made of it peels right off.
Industrial Plastics in calgary has all kinds of epoxy finishes and pigments, not the cheapest but great selection and service.
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08-29-2020, 07:51 AM
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Join Date: Oct 2017
Location: Calgary-Red Deer area
Posts: 3,438
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What about hydro dipping it?
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I'm not really a licensed bodyman or heavy duty mechanic. I just play one at work.
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08-29-2020, 08:05 AM
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Join Date: Jan 2013
Posts: 2,986
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Most of my hunting rifles have both plastic stock and barrel/ action painted. Krylon multi cam colours and a light mat finish sealer. Depending how hard you are on your guns it lasts 2-10 years. Nice thing is touch ups are easy. Varmint al has a good tutorial on his page.
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08-29-2020, 08:10 AM
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Join Date: Feb 2011
Posts: 2,345
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Coralines (DawsonBC)
Painted the stock on my custom .
It’s gotta be close to 10yrs old , very min wear .
I would guess its baked on . Wouldn’t hurt to ask them what they use
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.....Only here for buy n sell....
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08-29-2020, 08:38 AM
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Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: East Kootenays, BC
Posts: 1,188
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I can't speak for all plastic, but I have painted 3 Tikka stocks. All turned out well and have been very durable. There is two hunting seasons on the first and no peeling or chips. They are basically fibre reinforced plastic.
I scuffed everything with red scotchbrite, wiped with brake cleaner to degrease, then primed with Rustoleum plastic primer. Painted with Rustoleum, clear coated with Rustoleum anti slip clear. That stuff gives a really nice sharkskin texture.
Park it somewhere warm for a week to harden before assembly.
There is lots of good info on the net.
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08-29-2020, 08:45 AM
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Banned
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Join Date: May 2009
Location: Communist state
Posts: 13,243
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I’ve done a bunch of them. Sand it down, prime, paint then clear coat. Don’t cheap out on the clear coat. Use the 2K two part clear coat with hardener and it will last a long long time. You can get the clear in a mat finish from an auto body supply store. You can get the paint there too, in any color imaginable, the same stuff they use on plastic bumpers.
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08-31-2020, 09:59 AM
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Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: edmonton
Posts: 3,115
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chukar Hunter
Any advise would be appreciated as far as type of paint and do's and don'ts.
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First you will need to remove all of the mold release from the stock. Often this means you will have to sand the finish down quite a bit as it can be absorbed into the base plastic. You absolutely must remove all traces of any oils, mold release or wax of any kind to get proper adhesion. I use was and grease remover followed by 99% isopropyl alcohol for this You will then need to apply a light coat of plastic primer and allow it to fully cure before gently sanding it to get adhesion of your base coat. For base coats I always recommend adding a flex additive when used on plastic. This unfortunately for most will eliminate spray cans and require a true base coat / clear coat system. When you apply your base coat spray as little as possible to get coverage. Depending on the paint it may require several coats as too many mil's of coverage can affect drying. Check the paint specs for this as it varies greatly from manufacturers. Many paints have a re-coat window you must be aware of to promote proper chemical adhesion. If you are over the window you will need to lightly scuff the paint to promote mechanical adhesion. The thinner the base coat is the more flexible it will be so less likely to chip. Lastly apply a good quality clear once again with the flex additive, glossy or flat it is your choice. Biggest thing to note is many paints do not fully cure for at least 30 days. Personally I have seen some take up to 75 days if applied to thick. Wait at least 30 days before you assemble your firearm. many times I have seen people think the parts are fully cured but leave finger prints in the finish when they apply any force such as tightening screws.
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08-31-2020, 11:08 AM
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Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Medicine Hat
Posts: 126
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Just sanded down and painted... probably wont last as long as some of the other methods but two seconds with a spray can fixes that
Sent from my SM-A205W using Tapatalk
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08-31-2020, 04:58 PM
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Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Edmonton Alberta
Posts: 9,886
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Every year my rifle gets a new look via paintjob
Its become a tradition
90% of the time the boys use Krylon paint from CT
I scratch it up, never repair it because next summer they will strip it down to black again and give it a new look.
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08-31-2020, 05:41 PM
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Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: On the border in Lloydminster
Posts: 8,457
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I used an airbrush with Duracoat on a model 7 stock been 6 years still looks like new
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08-31-2020, 11:11 PM
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Banned
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Join Date: Aug 2020
Posts: 254
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I used bedliner on my plastic fenders on my rig and it has held up great. Sanded, primed and clear coated after but wonder if that could work?
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09-01-2020, 12:58 PM
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Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: On the border in Lloydminster
Posts: 8,457
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bat119
I used an airbrush with Duracoat on a model 7 stock been 6 years still looks like new
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One reason to paint a stock
I had to make alterations to the trigger guard I painted the whole stock to match
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09-03-2020, 06:11 AM
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Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Fox Creek
Posts: 3,413
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A couple times now. Here's one. Partly because I find the plain black boring, and also because I modified this one and to cover where I cut, carved and sanded.
Rust-Oleum Camo paint used. Pretty tough, holding up pretty well on a 4x4, and with some minor wear after a couple years on a gun.
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