Broad heads

[mindoutside]

Hello all,

I am new into archery and I just have a couple questions about broadheads.

Just got a bow and have taken it to jimbows in Calgary, Just wondering though about what style/brand of broad heads are good for elk/deer. Perhaps which ones to avoid as well.

Thanks!

[bigbaddad]

This should be gooood! Lol

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[Lefty-Canuck]

Which ever one you decide to use, make sure you tune your bow and arrow setup for the best flight possible. Do not settle for “almost” good enough, make sure your fight is perfect, perfect flight equals highest possible penetration.

LC

[mindoutside]

Originally Posted by Lefty-Canuck

Which ever one you decide to use, make sure you tune your bow and arrow setup for the best flight possible. Do not settle for “almost” good enough, make sure your fight is perfect, perfect flight equals highest possible penetration.

LC

Ok, fair enough. I just see the mechanical vs fixed and then I see some where the broad head is right at the tip and others where the broad head is almost behind a field tip?

[Lefty-Canuck]

I have killed elk and deer with both fixed and mechanical. Currently I am using a fixed head because I feel there is less negatives to them. I also am able to tune my bow setup to shoot accurately way past reasonable hunting range. Many people settle on mechanical heads because they can’t tune their bows to shoot well with fixed heads. If I was shooting Mechanical I would use Grim Reaper Razor-Tip, the fixed heads I use are call Tooth of the Arrow.

LC

[Big Lou]

I echo what Lefty said. Tune. Tune. Tune. Spin test all you arrows and whichever BH you decide to employ. I like to spin test with BHs while I’m installing inserts/outserts so you can manipulate position if needed to attain perfect square. I gave myself a real eye opener over the last week. I’d never really gotten after bare shaft(nock/dynamic spine) tuning before. I had BHs flying exceptionally good before but now, it’s perfect flight. Well worth the time.

I prefer a fixed blade myself but know plenty of guys who run mechanicals with great success too. I’ve ran Thunder Heads, quite a few Muzzy’s, G5 Stryker’s, currently running Slick Trick. I have a hankering to try some QAD Exodus. A buddy is running Tooth of The Arrow and loves them. Again, run what takes your fancy but tune it to perfection for best results.

[mindoutside]

Originally Posted by Lefty-Canuck

I have killed elk and deer with both fixed and mechanical. Currently I am using a fixed head because I feel there is less negatives to them. I also am able to tune my bow setup to shoot accurately way past reasonable hunting range. Many people settle on mechanical heads because they can’t tune their bows to shoot well with fixed heads. If I was shooting Mechanical I would use Grim Reaper Razor-Tip, the fixed heads I use are call Tooth of the Arrow.

LC

ok thanks for the info! Sounds like the same mentality about rifle/bullets. just make sure it goes in the right place!

[mindoutside]

Originally Posted by Big Lou

I echo what Lefty said. Tune. Tune. Tune. Spin test all you arrows and whichever BH you decide to employ. I like to spin test with BHs while I’m installing inserts/outserts so you can manipulate position if needed to attain perfect square. I gave myself a real eye opener over the last week. I’d never really gotten after bare shaft(nock/dynamic spine) tuning before. I had BHs flying exceptionally good before but now, it’s perfect flight. Well worth the time.

I prefer a fixed blade myself but know plenty of guys who run mechanicals with great success too. I’ve ran Thunder Heads, quite a few Muzzy’s, G5 Stryker’s, currently running Slick Trick. I have a hankering to try some QAD Exodus. A buddy is running Tooth of The Arrow and loves them. Again, run what takes your fancy but tune it to perfection for best results.

I did not know what spin testing was until now. I looked it up on Youtube and it makes sense. Another tool for the bench!

[trigger7mm]

Originally Posted by Lefty-Canuck

I have killed elk and deer with both fixed and mechanical. Currently I am using a fixed head because I feel there is less negatives to them. I also am able to tune my bow setup to shoot accurately way past reasonable hunting range. Many people settle on mechanical heads because they can’t tune their bows to shoot well with fixed heads. If I was shooting Mechanical I would use Grim Reaper Razor-Tip, the fixed heads I use are call Tooth of the Arrow.

LC

Lefty Canuck pretty much summed up my experiences too. I prefer fixed blade broadheads for the bigger species like moose and elk. I have taken several of pretty much all species with fixed blade broadheads, but have used mechanicals on deer and baited bears. Grim Reapers being my favorite. My favorite fixed blade broadheads are the Slick Tricks, but have had great success with several different brands. If I had to choose between the two, I would go with fixed heads for sure. Like Lefty said, there are less things to fail with fixed blades. Try to see which fly the truest with your set up. Have your bow tuned those, and practise, practise practise! Also, I always insure that my vanes line up perfectly with my broadheads blades when tuning my broadheads to my arrows. Like the other fellows have said, spin test your arrows and save the ones that are prefect for hunting. Good luck!

[rem338win]

Mechanicals work, I use Grim Reapers and Rage.

I will be going back to fixed again, likely the Grim Reaper Hades 4 blade.

I have used and really like Slick Tricks and Wacem 4 blades. Both flew well and penetrated very well.

[Chaoticelk]

Hello, I love trying new broad heads over the years I have arrowed 11 bull elk with ram cats, thunder heads, rockets rages, grim reapers. And montecs never was able to tell killing difference between them. Same with deer

[surhuntsalot]

Fixed blade... Slick Trick Vipertrick’s get my vote. Super accurate, Fantastic performance....

[jcrayford]

Your draw weight will come into consideration as well. Most modern bows (last 15 years) develop enough KE at the minimum legal hunting weight of 40# to be able to use SOME mechanicals, but older bows may or may not.

Mindoutside, you didn't specify what draw weight or year/model of bow, but the common assumption is that you may be using a modern bow? If that is the case, like so many others have offered up make sure that it's tuned for best effectiveness. And then, if you're over 45-50# DW your choices do open up quite a bit on BH design and brands.

I've been fortunate enough to pull 70# for the last 25 years and have had good luck with my mechanicals. Didn't ever develop a taste for fixed as I have my own thoughts there but based on my shooting draw weight, I can use any BH if wanted. My sister-in-law however, draws only 48# so she is limited to what she can put on her bow (as it is an older bow with less efficient cams).

So many factors. So little time to practice and hunt. So much fun though! Good luck and welcome to the addiction.

J.

[Wapiti340]

Big fan of Tooth of the Arrow broadheads

[brendan's dad]

125 grain QAD Exodus. Bare shaft tuned to 20 yards and these broadheads hit identical with my field points out to 60 yards (furthest I have tested to this point)

[mindoutside]

Thanks for all the input so far guy! Do you test your broad heads on regular targets? Or do you use separate targets? Seems like they do a lot more DMG

[Lefty-Canuck]

Originally Posted by mindoutside

Thanks for all the input so far guy! Do you test your broad heads on regular targets? Or do you use separate targets? Seems like they do a lot more DMG

Broad head compatible targets.

LC

[brendan's dad]

Originally Posted by mindoutside

Thanks for all the input so far guy! Do you test your broad heads on regular targets? Or do you use separate targets? Seems like they do a lot more DMG

I have a bulldog bag target for my daily shooting with FP's and I only use my Block target for broadhead tuning.

[Knotter]

All to often there are statements that muddle the issue with broadheads. The top one of these sounds something like “put the shot where it counts ....” I hate this ... You could probably shoot a field point at the exact right spot and kill a moose/elk. All other things equal when you make a perfect shot they all work fine. Its when you hit bones, quartering angles, too far back etc. where your choices start to matter.

The wind blows, your heart pounds, animals move, hinges freeze, things get in the way. Stick the most reliable, starpest, toughest hunk of metal on the front of your arrow you can. When things go south your arrow is only as good as the weakest link. Consider a brass insert with a cut on contact fixed blade that gets perfect flight from your bow.

[DiabeticKripple]

Originally Posted by mindoutside

Ok, fair enough. I just see the mechanical vs fixed and then I see some where the broad head is right at the tip and others where the broad head is almost behind a field tip?

the broad head with the blades right to the tip are called "Cut On Contact" or COC. Like their name they start cutting right away.

The ones with the tip are called trocar (Muzzy invention) and they are better for splitting through bone. But with the steeper blade angle, they may not penetrate as well as COC does.

[mindoutside]

Originally Posted by Knotter

All to often there are statements that muddle the issue with broadheads. The top one of these sounds something like “put the shot where it counts ....” I hate this ... You could probably shoot a field point at the exact right spot and kill a moose/elk. All other things equal when you make a perfect shot they all work fine. Its when you hit bones, quartering angles, too far back etc. where your choices start to matter.

The wind blows, your heart pounds, animals move, hinges freeze, things get in the way. Stick the most reliable, starpest, toughest hunk of metal on the front of your arrow you can. When things go south your arrow is only as good as the weakest link. Consider a brass insert with a cut on contact fixed blade that gets perfect flight from your bow.

Good point, They do not seem to differ in price too much anyways, kind of between 40 and 60 online at cabelas anways. I was thinking for that price I might as well just but the more expensive one but at the same time I wonder with a price so close, is it all just the same stuff?

[mindoutside]

Originally Posted by DiabeticKripple

the broad head with the blades right to the tip are called "Cut On Contact" or COC. Like their name they start cutting right away.

The ones with the tip are called trocar (Muzzy invention) and they are better for splitting through bone. But with the steeper blade angle, they may not penetrate as well as COC does.

Oohh, Ok. That makes sense. I would probably be starting my hunting with more spot and stalk type hunting. Sounds like the COC style is perhaps more forgiving?

[Lefty-Canuck]

More forgiving in what way?

There are COC, trocar, and some heads incorporate aspects of both styles. I prefer trocar or a one piece with a stout design that has features of both. Like the top head.

The manufacturer of the bottom two heads recommends 60-65KE minimum, to use their mechanicals and that’s a good rule to follow... actually calculate the KE based on your setup and a chrony not just published or theoretical speeds.

I like the smashing aspects of the trocar or the head in the top of the picture, I have seen COC heads deflect in funny ways in certain instances.

I like the aspect of using a solid, one piece, 4 blade design that tunes well from my bow. A solid, one piece, 3 blade works great too.

I used mechanical heads successfully many times, but I feel in certain instances they have inherit issues. One I had a predeployment when I hit a stalk of wheat on the way to the target and it drastically changed the tragectory... a fixed head I feel would not have been as effected.

[jcrayford]

Originally Posted by mindoutside

Good point, They do not seem to differ in price too much anyways, kind of between 40 and 60 online at cabelas anways. I was thinking for that price I might as well just but the more expensive one but at the same time I wonder with a price so close, is it all just the same stuff?

I've always considered a BH to be an expendable piece of equipment (if necessary) to be fired at live game. Although I've also inspected my BHs after impact with live animals and *have* used the same components again (blades sharpened but if damaged, the components get replaced). Lots of fixed blade designs have replaceable components as well as mechanicals. As long as the ferrule spins true, replace the blades and keep going.

The problem currently with some of my BHs is that I can no longer easily find replacement components. Luckily I was fortunate enough to buy enough to last me for the next couple of years.

If you are considering BH brand/design on costs alone, you may have chosen the wrong passion. Archery is expensive to get into (and to some extent maintain your level of expectations) but it's SO WORTH IT!!!

If you can, forget the cost and enjoy the pursuit of your own level of expectations. That will make your hunts more memorable. While these statements may not necessarily help with your search, it puts into perspective what we all as archers learn; my level of expectation is not the same as my hunting partners. But we all enjoy the hunt.....

J.

[DiabeticKripple]

i have some Wasp Boss 100gr broadheads, but since i havent actually shot them yet, i may move to Tooth of the Arrow 100gr heads and tune my bow with those.

[mindoutside]

Originally Posted by Lefty-Canuck

More forgiving in what way?

There are COC, trocar, and some heads incorporate aspects of both styles. I prefer trocar or a one piece with a stout design that has features of both. Like the top head.

The manufacturer of the bottom two heads recommends 60-65KE minimum, to use their mechanicals and that’s a good rule to follow... actually calculate the KE based on your setup and a chrony not just published or theoretical speeds.

I like the smashing aspects of the trocar or the head in the top of the picture, I have seen COC heads deflect in funny ways in certain instances.

I like the aspect of using a solid, one piece, 4 blade design that tunes well from my bow. A solid, one piece, 3 blade works great too.

I used mechanical heads successfully many times, but I feel in certain instances they have inherit issues. One I had a predeployment when I hit a stalk of wheat on the way to the target and it drastically changed the tragectory... a fixed head I feel would not have been as effected.

I do like the design in the top photo, just seems more robust. I guess just thinking about the COC would more forgiving in that it would inflict more dmg fast but I also have never taken an animal with a bow so I do not know.

I think I will start with some kind of fixed broad head for now just, decide on COC or trocar or a mix of the two if I can find them

[mindoutside]

Originally Posted by jcrayford

I've always considered a BH to be an expendable piece of equipment (if necessary) to be fired at live game. Although I've also inspected my BHs after impact with live animals and *have* used the same components again (blades sharpened but if damaged, the components get replaced). Lots of fixed blade designs have replaceable components as well as mechanicals. As long as the ferrule spins true, replace the blades and keep going.

The problem currently with some of my BHs is that I can no longer easily find replacement components. Luckily I was fortunate enough to buy enough to last me for the next couple of years.

If you are considering BH brand/design on costs alone, you may have chosen the wrong passion. Archery is expensive to get into (and to some extent maintain your level of expectations) but it's SO WORTH IT!!!

If you can, forget the cost and enjoy the pursuit of your own level of expectations. That will make your hunts more memorable. While these statements may not necessarily help with your search, it puts into perspective what we all as archers learn; my level of expectation is not the same as my hunting partners. But we all enjoy the hunt.....

J.

I was actually just wondering if they are reusable! I figured they would take a beating but it made me wonder how many I should have in a given season depending on how many tags I have and if I miss.

When it comes to price, I look for quality. Price does not always dictate quality.

[Coiloil37]

Some broad heads can be reused and some show obvious damage. Then there are those so cheaply designed I wouldn’t reuse them regardless of what they looked like.

I’ve got German kinetics in this photo that have been through over a doz animals and VPA’s that have gone through maybe 4. I check them out and reuse them.




When ones damaged it never gets used again. Pretty straight forward.





Tuning is complicated but broad heads are simple. If the front of your arrows weigh the same, your broadheads spin true and your bow is TUNED they will ALL shoot to the same poi. I often have 5 different broadheads in my quiver so I can choose what to shoot depending on the shot and animal. They range from 100 to 150 grains and I use different weight inserts to keep my point weight at 200 grains. They all shoot to the same place as my fletched field tips, my bare shafts and my judos. You don’t “have” to tune to any specific broadheads, you just have to tune properly. The bigger fixed blade broadheads just make tuning or form errors more obvious.

[tbrown]

Lots of good points here, I think finding one that shoots well and you are confident with is what counts. Confidence kills. If you do your part, the broadhead will do it's part. Every broadhead on the market has killed game.

My wife has been using the grimreaper hades. They shoot well for her and they are very sharp. They seem to be an over looked option.

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[robson3954]

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