Step by step reloading for beginners

[8x68S]

Great post. One thing that may be worth mentioning during sizing.
If you use too much lubricant the outside case wall will "dent". Use just enough that the cases will size without much resistance. Good idea to invest in a stuck case remover set just in case (I've been loading 35+ years and only had this happen once. Used the wrong shell holder). Cases is still useable (unless you have a moon crater) but I would suggest using it for minimum loads (you don't want to un-necessarily add pressure a max load). Dent will blow out during the firing process.
After wiping off the case after sizing some will tumble the brass which cleans the cases and makes it easier to spot possible case problems. I will use case neck brushes to clean the inside of the case neck. It allows better adhesion when seating the bullet. I also use primer pocket brushes to clean the primer pocket. This allows for better primer ignition. Depending on tumbling media used you will need to check the primer pocket to see if any media is blocking the flash hole.
Some will get themselves a flash hole deburring tool to remove any burrs from the flash hole inside the case during the manufacturing process. You can get a universal flash hole deburring tool and then all you will need are the pilot stops.

[ant12hony]

I am looking at getting into reloading! I have the Shooters Bible Guide to Reloading book are there other better ones I could get?? and also should I buy each piece individually or buy a kit?? what brand would you go with??

Love this thread I will be following it!!

Anthony

[runoutofbullits]

I'm going to have to get into reloading, it looks fun.

[RolHammer]

I'm in the process of my first foray into reloading. The powder step's coming up & I'm just wondering if there's a 'best way' to go about choosing a powder to use. I have a buddy who's had great results with BL-C(2). In some stuff I was reading, a guy was singing the praises of IMR-4895. For .223 - which is what I'm working on - the current version of the Lyman manual shows a load with Benchmark as the 'potentially most accurate' using 52 gr. HBPT & Varget for 55 gr. SPT. I was planning on trying out V-Max in 53 gr.

[rusty2078]

Thanks for all the info here, as a guy venturing into the world of reloading, are there any books that you guys could recommend as sort of a "how to", as well as a list of necessary equipment?

[Bigiron]

Thanks for the great thread!
Great info for newbies to reloading. I'm sure there's some info that not so newbies also appreciated!

[32-40win]

Thought I'd add this one in, someone else found it, but, it is one of the more complete illustrations of case pressure signs, with decent explanations, I have seen.

http://www.primalrights.com/articles...nding-pressure

And as an aside, a thread discussing loading manual pressure, and the foibles of trying to estimate pressure. You need to read the whole thing, it gets some answers from people who really can answer some of these questions and point out the pitfalls, and an explanation of how loading manual pressure info, is arrived at.

http://www.24hourcampfire.com/ubbthr...?#Post11366654

[3blade]

Originally Posted by 32-40win

Thought I'd add this one in, someone else found it, but, it is one of the more complete illustrations of case pressure signs, with decent explanations, I have seen.

http://www.primalrights.com/articles...nding-pressure

And as an aside, a thread discussing loading manual pressure, and the foibles of trying to estimate pressure. You need to read the whole thing, it gets some answers from people who really can answer some of these questions and point out the pitfalls, and an explanation of how loading manual pressure info, is arrived at.

http://www.24hourcampfire.com/ubbthr...?#Post11366654

This should be mandatory for all shooters. Especially the part about NOT lubing the chamber and making sure lube doesn't get on the cartridges.

[Duramaximos]

Hello,
I have a process question. For those of you that outside neck turn your brass, do you do so before or after sizing?

Also, I've been cutting only enough material to uniform the neck wall thickness, but wondering if there is an optimal neck wall thickness for best accuracy? In other words, assuming the neck walls have been turned, is a thicker neck wall more accurate than a thin neck wall, or vice versa?

Thanks!

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[32-40win]

Ran across this thread on the Campfire, seems to be worth making people aware of. The link to the CMP thread was provided by Denton Bramwell, who is someone I will accept, that knows a bit about playing with powder.
It concerns deterioration of powder and what happens when it does. Some interesting info from the US Military on the subject in it.

http://forums.thecmp.org/showthread.php?t=157820

this was the original thread from the Campfire;

http://www.24hourcampfire.com/ubbthr...ics/11507280/1

[Alephnaught]

Originally Posted by Duramaximos

Hello,
I have a process question. For those of you that outside neck turn your brass, do you do so before or after sizing?

Also, I've been cutting only enough material to uniform the neck wall thickness, but wondering if there is an optimal neck wall thickness for best accuracy? In other words, assuming the neck walls have been turned, is a thicker neck wall more accurate than a thin neck wall, or vice versa?

I've found it helpful to ensure the neck has been resized prior to expanding it over the expand mandrel for the turner. That way you can be sure the neck starts at a point smaller than the expand mandrel. How much smaller really isn't overly important - you're just making sure that the necks aren't larger than the expand mandrel. This is key, as the inside of the neck references off of the pilot.

The main factor to the answer of the next part depends on why you're cutting the necks. If you have custom-reamed chamber that's tight, you'll need to cut them down to fit. If you have a SAAMI chamber and you're turning necks to uniform neck tension, the exact amount you cut away doesn't overly matter. Numbers vary, but the most common recommendation I've seen is to trim away enough material so that about 75% of your necks have had material trimmed away from about 75% of their surfaces. Here, you're trying to reduce the difference between the thickest parts from the thinnest parts. Uniforming neck thickness is one of the fundamentals in uniforming neck tension. Uniformity in neck tension is one of the fundamentals in achieving tight groups.

[Ldsh_tanker]

This was SUPER helpful and informative!
Thank you'

[jdf96ca]

IMG_1506.jpg
Didn't have my sizing die set proper haha and that's what happens hahahahaha


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[ayman76]

Originally Posted by jdf96ca

Attachment 134433
Didn't have my sizing die set proper haha and that's what happens hahahahaha


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I would call that funny case now ,
You crewed the resizing die way too much.


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[Gilly87]

That's some great info thanks.

[ayman76]

This question to the reloader, I see Hornady 10th edition mentions the maximum load for every powder type and for specific caliber and they indicate that with red colour, so my question is, does that maximum powder load reflect the weight of the complete cartridge with the bullet and the powder charge or that maximum powder weight includes only the powder charge itself ???

Also anyone seen Lyman 49th or 50th edition online version ?


Thanks.


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[32-40win]

Max charge weight in any reloading manual, is the weight of the powder itself, nothing else included. It is the point where average maximum allowable pressure was achieved in that particular gun, for that cartridge, for that bullet weight and style, with that brass and that primer. Change any of those items, the pressure level will change also. Not aware of Lyman themselves, publishing any of their manuals online.

[ayman76]

Ok thanks , now my other question is this : for the reloader people who has Hornady Custom Grade 2 die set, do you know if the set comes with the tapered/crimp seater die or the bullet seater die that comes with the set it does not have the tapered/ crimp feature ??

For accuracy I am looking to crimp the bullet as Hornady manual recommend. I have the Hornady cartridge reloading handbook 10th edition.

Cheers


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[32-40win]

Unless using a heavy recoiling cartridge or a straightwalled cartridge in a magazine type rifle or pistol, adequate neck tension will negate any need to crimp. When it comes to accuracy, there is no gain from crimping, and you certainly won't see any competition shooters doing it. It also creates the necessity of having brass all the same length, or sorting the brass by length groups and adjusting the die for each length as sorted, to be able to crimp it properly. And if you are shooting a gun like a singleshot or single loading a bolt gun, you can run .005 neck tension if you want, or with say a 338LM and a 300gr bullet, run it at .003 or .004,.005 neck tension in a magazine gun. Most match grade benchrest style seaters have no crimp rings in them.

[32-40win]

A food for thought article on powder storage and humidity, and how it affects burn rate, which is also apparently included in the Norma manual;

http://bulletin.accurateshooter.com/...Ql5kaTw8oq5feU

[ayman76]

I have quick questions about reloading

Which is better to do first :

A) use Frankford arsenal and deprime my brass then tumble them and use the resizing die after OR

B) Use the resizing die to deprime and resize then tumble

Which one is more recommended to do A or B? And why please.

Which order do you use when reloading ? And why mix ratio of cleaning solution do you use to bring that shiny outlook of the brass ??

Langley , BC

Thank you


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[32-40win]

Depends what kind of shape the brass is in to start with, if it's range pickups with gunk on them, decap with a decapper and clean, if it is relatively clean already, do it in the sizing die, wiping lube on the case will take off anything that needs to come off as you do it. No percentage in doing more steps than necessary.

[32-40win]

For thos not aware of this outfit, they make a bunch of press accessories and things like spent primer trays for Rockchuckers, storage trays for shell holders, comparators, pilots and some jigs for modifying things like 308 to 300blackout and some others. You may find something you can use there;

https://www.etsy.com/ca/shop/Elite3d...r&page=2#items

[32-40win]

For those who may want to look at annealing units that are affordable in comparison to an AMP unit.
Todd Elfer is developing a new version of his, not ready yet as of today due to Covid and supply issues, but, shud be getting out this year I expect;

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A7wBBzXSQnc

And for those who haven't seen the Annealeeze;

https://annealeez.com/

[32-40win]

If you are interested in a decapper other than a Lee or Lyman, this one is designed especially for progressive presses, but works fine in a single or turret as well, and a vid of it in operation;

https://fwarms.com/product-tag/decapping/

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DwSH...rI_MN&index=41

[Sritzer]

Lots to learn here. Thanks for the info all


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[32-40win]

A post on CGN about an 8.5x55 Blaser got me to searching info to see what it was about, ran across a new to me site, that may have info a person can use on bullets, powders and data. It is set up like Load Data from Petersen, some free, some protected stuff you pay for, but, may be well worth 10.00 to find out what they have there. Worth exploring, has some different stuff in it.

https://www.xxl-reloading.com/

[32-40win]

Was watching a vid about using a Frankford Arsenal M press, good vid, on Johnny's Reloading. He had a few small isssues with it. Reading thru the comments, a fella had posted a link to another one, that he made, as to how he fixed his issues with the M press. THought it was worth putting up for reference for those who own this press and have some issues with it;

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jnL_uNMyj9o


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-hI3QmcND2I

[32-40win]

May well be the best vid I have seen explaining the charge weights and how the over-emphasis of the chrono ES and charge weight can lead you astray.
Also happens to be a good illustration of how to achieve consistent charge weights, and the value of what you are really seeing on a .1gr scale such as a Chargemaster dispenser, or in the is case, another RCBS Scale, vs an A&D scale.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LecSyrB0BM0

[JordyR]

Thanks for the information!