Running water line to fridge

[tbiddy]

So we are getting a new fridge tomorrow and it comes with the water feature. This is the first time in my 43yrs I’ve had water and an ice maker in a fridge haha.

I need to run a line from under the sink over to the fridge. What is the best way? From what I can tell from YouTube (I’m in no way a plumber but my wife says I wear my pants like one) I need a “T” valve? Is it 1/2” from the water supply, 1/2” to the sink and 1/4” to the fridge? From the pic I attached the valve needs threaded ends I assume. I was at Home Depot today and the guy helping me couldn’t find the valve I need. I also need about 15-20’ of water line, which from what I found today, hard to find.

Any help would be appreciated.




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[Ken07AOVette]

there are premade kits everywhere

https://www.lowes.ca/product/applian...E&gclsrc=aw.ds

[Art Smeller]

Originally Posted by Ken07AOVette

there are premade kits everywhere

https://www.lowes.ca/product/applian...E&gclsrc=aw.ds

I investigated these kits years ago.
They are prone to failure and will
flood your house if you are not home.

[Ken07AOVette]

Originally Posted by Art Smeller

I investigated these kits years ago.
They are prone to failure and will
flood your house if you are not home.

Mine has been fine for 20 years, good reminder to check it tomorrow.

[Dewey Cox]

Avoid that translucent white 1/4" line.
It will leak eventually.
And avoid those saddle valves too.

[Bearbreath]

Originally Posted by Dewey Cox

Avoid that translucent white 1/4" line.
It will leak eventually.
And avoid those saddle valves too.

^^^^^YES!!!!!!!!

Mine sprung a pin hole leak while I was at home. THANKFULLY!!!
If i was out....water damage would have been brutal. Replaced with braided stainless. A professional plumber did the work. Should have done it myself!!!!

[tbiddy]

Originally Posted by Ken07AOVette

there are premade kits everywhere

https://www.lowes.ca/product/applian...E&gclsrc=aw.ds

I was trying to avoid the saddle valve route. I did buy a kit from Home Depot for the length of hose but think I’m going to take it back. Once I can figure out what size valve I need, I think I’ll just order it all from Amazon and get the braided line too.

[KGB]

Whatever you do- DO NOT USE this cheap plastic line with a saddle valve! They all break and leak, and water damage your house in no time. If you have to hire a plumber to install the proper line with a proper connection- do it, you will thank us later, lol!

[Ken07AOVette]

I didn't use a saddle valve. I bought a t valve kit

[CNP]

The last couple fridges we've had were all water accessorized. I refused to hook them up...not wanting to wait for the fail. The sink is like 6' away and always has cold water

[Art Smeller]

Originally Posted by CNP

The last couple fridges we've had were all water accessorized. I refused to hook them up...not wanting to wait for the fail. The sink is like 6' away and always has cold water

those cheap kits fail

[Art Smeller]

Originally Posted by Ken07AOVette

I didn't use a saddle valve. I bought a t valve kit

but you recommended a saddle valve to the OP

[SamSteele]

When we bought our current home it had the saddle valve/ cheap white water supply line used to run water to the fridge. Brother in law works in insurance restoration and told me to get rid of it ASAP as it’s one of the number one issues he sees.

I went to Home Depot and found a stainless steel braided line that had a shock valve built in. Basically if it comes off or breaks the immediate surge of water causes a ball valve to slam shut and prevent leakage. I tested it when I installed the line and it worked great. I figured that it and the braided line would give me peace of mind.

Also installed a “T” on the supply with its own valve instead of the saddle valve.

5 years and no issues. In fact, the water came out of the fridge with far more pressure than with the cheap setup.

SS

[oilngas]

We have had two fridge water line issues, both were a PITA, last one to the tune of $35 K. It was the worst as when the fridge was pushed back in after a cleaning, yes it was braided line etc. the fridge wheel ever so slightly damaged the braid. That lead to the internal line started to leak ever so slightly after a few weeks. The point is we don't hook the water line up, it is blanked with a ball valve and a plug, and a shut off at the source. Yes I know overkill but that's what the Oilfield teaches ya!.
We don't miss the water to the frig idea at all.

[Dewey Cox]

I can't go back to living without an ice maker in the fridge.

My setup is a separate pex line run though a hole in the floor behind the fridge. There is a shutoff valve behind the fridge that adapts to 1/4" compression, and I have soft copper tubing connecting it to the fridge, with enough slack coiled up to allow pulling the fridge out.

I would snap a picture, but if I pull out the fridge, I'd be obligated to clean back there...

[Mayhem]

Originally Posted by Dewey Cox

I can't go back to living without an ice maker in the fridge.

My setup is a separate pex line run though a hole in the floor behind the fridge. There is a shutoff valve behind the fridge that adapts to 1/4" compression, and I have soft copper tubing connecting it to the fridge, with enough slack coiled up to allow pulling the fridge out.

I would snap a picture, but if I pull out the fridge, I'd be obligated to clean back there...

Did mine similar...fridge was a fair ways from the nearest supply line. Bsmt utility room is under the kitchen so I had access to the joists. Came off the supply with a Tee, a valve and then soft copper tubing over to under fridge area. Fortunately the fridge had enough tubing out the back to do the plastic/copper connection below the main floor level and still have slack to move out for cleaning. If the connection did ever leak it would be onto the concrete which is sloped towards the floordrain.

[CptnBlues63]

I have a friend at work who's a journeyman plumber so when we got our fridge with water/ice maker built in I asked him about it. He recommended a specific kit (don't ask me which one now) that came with grey PEX pipe and T valve that has a shutoff.

I installed it myself and so far, so good. I check under the kitchen sink on a regular basis for leaks. But then, I check under all my sinks regularly.

[Hoopi]

Hi: I would highly recommend you get a plumber or a licensed installer (with insurance) to install this. My neighbour did it himself to save a few bucks. About 3 months after he installed the line broke/slipped out of the connection when he was at work. Water spilled into his house (a bi-level) for about 10 hours. When he came home water flooded onto the steps as he opened the door. His ceiling tile collapsed onto his basement floor, his wood tile lifted, etc.

75,000 dollars to fix.

I will also add to this the installation advice a story my firefighter buddy told me about a fireplace/stove pipe for a burned house. The installer forgot 3 screws in the entire installation. Over time (about two years maybe) the stovepipe without screws worked loose allowing hot gases/flames into the attic. The entire house burned down, no one hurt, they had to run for their lives to escape. Fire investigation revealed the cause and the installer's insurance paid for a new house.

There are things to save money doing it yourself and other things require professionals. As I get older, I am starting to err on the side of caution.
My two cents

Hoopi

[Cigarguy]

I agree with the others not to use a saddle valve and cheap plastic 1/4" hose. Just a leak waiting to happen.

I'm a small residential contractor. Here's what I would do if this was my house. I would cut the copper below the shut off valve. I would replace that shut off valve as I do not thrust those. In place I would install a ball valve. I would sweat in a new copper to pex ball valve.

From the pex connection after the ball valve tee it off with one side going to the kitchen faucet and the other going to the fridge.

For the line going to the kitchen sink, install a short section of pex ending with a standard 3/8" shutoff valve. Then simply screw on the cold water lead to the faucet.

For the line going to the fridge. Use a pex connection from the kitchen sink to the fridge. The hardest part about this is clearing the cabinets, drilling a 3/4" to 1" hole for the pex line and running the pex line. At fridge end, terminate the pex line with a 1/4" shutoff valve and secure valve/pex connection to the back at back of fridge. From the 1/4" shutoff valve run a 1/4" braided hose from shutoff valve to the fridge. This hose is much superior but unfortunately more expensive than those cheap 1/4" plastic leak prone hoses. Obviously you will need a long hose that will allow you to move the fridge in and out.

As for materials. Not all pex lines are created equal. The ones sold by plumbing wholesalers such as Woseley are superior. However the lesser quality ones form Home Depot/Lowe's will work just fine too and are more than good enough. For shut off valves, I don't like the screw type as the rubber gasket in those are prone to failing leading to leaks or the valve not closing properly. I prefer Dahl ball valves myself. Sharkbite valves and connection are good too. Sharkbite are more convenient but are much more expensive. Stainless steel braided line from 1/4"shutoff valve to fridge is much better than cheap 1/4" plastic line but are more expensive.

For the initial valve that is attached to the copper pipe. You can either get a ball valve that accept copper at one end to pex on the other end and sweat (solder) the copper connection. Or you can get a Sharkbite valve. Simply push the Sharkbite valve into the copper pipe to connect it on the one end and push in a pex line on the other end.

None of this is really that difficult. Just take your time and plan it through. If you are at all uncomfortable, get a plumber as the consequences can be costly.

Finally, this is how I would do it and have done many times in the past. There are numerous other ways of achieving the same thing. The important thing is to use better materials and valves.

[nimrod]

First off where are you located, I know a plumber that might be able to hook up your fridge, if he has time and close.

Originally Posted by tbiddy

So we are getting a new fridge tomorrow and it comes with the water feature. This is the first time in my 43yrs I’ve had water and an ice maker in a fridge haha.

I need to run a line from under the sink over to the fridge. What is the best way? From what I can tell from YouTube (I’m in no way a plumber but my wife says I wear my pants like one) I need a “T” valve? Is it 1/2” from the water supply, 1/2” to the sink and 1/4” to the fridge? From the pic I attached the valve needs threaded ends I assume. I was at Home Depot today and the guy helping me couldn’t find the valve I need. I also need about 15-20’ of water line, which from what I found today, hard to find.

Any help would be appreciated.




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[tbiddy]

Were located north of Provost.

I only have to drill through two cupboards so that is easy. I know not to use a saddle valve but thought it would be easy to add in a T valve. The bottom of the T hooks up the supply line, the top hooks up to the hose from the sink and the T portion hooks up to the pex line. You guys have me questioning if I should do it myself but I’m also not wanting to hire a plumber. We’ll just go without fridge water if it’s too difficult. Like somebody said the tap is 6’ away and always cold. The wife only drinks water from the cooler anyways.

This is the hose I ordered




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