Pro kicker information please

[Jims83cj5]

Hi guys, I have a Lund 1600 pro angler DLX, its a console model. The main motor is a merc 2 stroke 90 thats oil injected. Built in 16 gallon fuel tank. I’m looking at getting a 9.9 pro kicker. I’m a bit concerned it may troll too fast and wonder if anyone knows what else i need to set it up to steer with my steering wheel. Same with shifting and starting by the steering wheel or am I dreaming..

[SamSteele]

You will need a tie bar from your main to the kicker if you want to use the steering wheel to steer it. You will also need the remote control kit for throttle and keyed start and room to mount it by the drivers seat. You will also want to “T” it into your main fuel tank. Most dealers can do that for you pretty easily.

A simpler way is to install a tiller model pro kicker instead, but that means you are standing/sitting in the back to use it.

[EZM]

Kicker motors, and the speed they troll, is related to two things, the HP (and a 10hp is perfect) and the pitch of the prop (and a dedicated kicker will have a low pitched prop which will allow it to crawl along at the right speed you need).

It's unlikely it will push you too fast. You can always trim up a little which reduces thrust, or throw a drift sock - but I doubt that will be an issue. At idle, on a typical boat, you will get right around 1 mph - so, if you are salmon or laker fishing, you might end up throttling up if anything.

As far as what you need - depends if you have power, hydraulic or standard hydraulic assist steering - but there will be something called a "remote steering kit".

This kit will have either a tie bar, or a bracket/cylinder to bolt up, the fuel lines and priming bulb, the control box, mount plate, and wiring harness. If you buy it with the kit, just check for the fuel line and primer bulb - some don't include that.

You will also need to bolt it up to the transom so will need proper hardware, and in some cases, a block and/or yoke flange.

You also need to measure up (based on the angle of the bottom of the boat) the proper leg size. If your leg is a 20" then a 20" is normally what's ideal - but variations exist - like height at transom mounting point, and, like I said, angle of the hull at the transom.

Unlike a main engine, the kicker is "better long" than short. Normally you want your cavitation plate to line up with bottom of the hull so it's not dragging at higher (planing) speeds - but for a kicker, you are not planing anyways. And a "too short" leg may cause the kicker (which sits closer to the edge of the boat that rises more compared to the center line of the boat, to pop out of the water in moderate or heavy chop. This will cause cavitation (loose water and run dry and you will have poor boat control and overheat the kicker).

Hope that helps.

[EZM]

Originally Posted by SamSteele

You will need a tie bar from your main to the kicker if you want to use the steering wheel to steer it. You will also need the remote control kit for throttle and keyed start and room to mount it by the drivers seat. You will also want to “T” it into your main fuel tank. Most dealers can do that for you pretty easily.

A simpler way is to install a tiller model pro kicker instead, but that means you are standing/sitting in the back to use it.

Only thing different from my perspective is - I'd run a dedicated line right to tank. A Y or T can cause a vacuum to form in the other motors fuel line - so I'd ask to have a direct line in by itself.

I've made that error before and it caused annoying start up issues for my main engine.

[Jims83cj5]

Originally Posted by SamSteele

You will need a tie bar from your main to the kicker if you want to use the steering wheel to steer it. You will also need the remote control kit for throttle and keyed start and room to mount it by the drivers seat. You will also want to “T” it into your main fuel tank. Most dealers can do that for you pretty easily.

A simpler way is to install a tiller model pro kicker instead, but that means you are standing/sitting in the back to use it.

So its my understanding that when your using your big motor the little one obviously needs to be out of the water, If your using a tie bar does that need to be disconnected before you can use the power trim lift the troller out of the water?

[Jims83cj5]

Originally Posted by EZM

Only thing different from my perspective is - I'd run a dedicated line right to tank. A Y or T can cause a vacuum to form in the other motors fuel line - so I'd ask to have a direct line in by itself.

I've made that error before and it caused annoying start up issues for my main engine.

Is there a check valve that would fix that if I dont have a second port in my fuel tank?

[SamSteele]

Originally Posted by Jims83cj5

So its my understanding that when your using your big motor the little one obviously needs to be out of the water, If your using a tie bar does that need to be disconnected before you can use the power trim lift the troller out of the water?

The last 4 boats I’ve had have all had remote kickers that are tied to the main. You are correct. When the big motor is in use you trim up the kicker. The tie bar has ball & socket style connections on both ends. No need to disconnect when you trim it up.



Your setup may end up looking a bit different, but it should be similar to this.

[SamSteele]

Originally Posted by Jims83cj5

Is there a check valve that would fix that if I dont have a second port in my fuel tank?

I’ve had a T installed before when the tank wasn’t tapped for a second connection. Only issue I ever had was I needed to prime the kicker after running the main as the Venturi effect would suck the fuel out of the kicker line when I ran the main. Pump the kicker bulb and it would start fine. Never had an issue the other way.

[Jims83cj5]

Originally Posted by SamSteele

I’ve had a T installed before when the tank wasn’t tapped for a second connection. Only issue I ever had was I needed to prime the kicker after running the main as the Venturi effect would suck the fuel out of the kicker line when I ran the main. Pump the kicker bulb and it would start fine. Never had an issue the other way.

Thx for the information, did you start and shift at the motor or at the drivers seat

[Barry D]

I have a Lund 1850 Tree with a fully intergrated pro-kicker with all controls up with the main engine controls. I would recommend you go all the way if you are adding it to your boat, it jut makes the fishing experience so much better. I hope hour budget allows for it.
However I do have a slight problem right now. My Pro-kicker motor will not run at idle speed. If I give it a bit more throttle, it runs, but then I am going to fast. With all you experts that have a lot more knowledge than me, what is your thinking on this? Could it just be my fuel filter is plugged?

[SamSteele]

Originally Posted by Jims83cj5

Thx for the information, did you start and shift at the motor or at the drivers seat

Yes. Two sets of controls. One for the main and one for the kicker.

[SamSteele]

Originally Posted by Barry D

I have a Lund 1850 Tree with a fully intergrated pro-kicker with all controls up with the main engine controls. I would recommend you go all the way if you are adding it to your boat, it jut makes the fishing experience so much better. I hope hour budget allows for it.
However I do have a slight problem right now. My Pro-kicker motor will not run at idle speed. If I give it a bit more throttle, it runs, but then I am going to fast. With all you experts that have a lot more knowledge than me, what is your thinking on this? Could it just be my fuel filter is plugged?

I’d check a plugged low idle jet in the carb.

[EZM]

Originally Posted by Barry D

I have a Lund 1850 Tree with a fully intergrated pro-kicker with all controls up with the main engine controls. I would recommend you go all the way if you are adding it to your boat, it jut makes the fishing experience so much better. I hope hour budget allows for it.
However I do have a slight problem right now. My Pro-kicker motor will not run at idle speed. If I give it a bit more throttle, it runs, but then I am going to fast. With all you experts that have a lot more knowledge than me, what is your thinking on this? Could it just be my fuel filter is plugged?

Could be three things - a fuel delivery issue (like the filter as you have mentioned), could be the kicker needs the idle adjusted, or, like in my Tyee, you have to run dedicated lines (if they aren't separated).

[EZM]

Originally Posted by Jims83cj5

Is there a check valve that would fix that if I dont have a second port in my fuel tank?

I guess it depends on what pickups you have. If Sam's is set up that way, and he hasn't run into issues with this, maybe see what they did to Y or T these in (maybe a backflow or vacuum check of some sort/). I've had issues in the past doing it this way, but it could have been set up better maybe?

My current boat 1800 Tyee has 2 pickups from factory. Was already set up for trolling motor from factory.

[SamSteele]

Originally Posted by EZM

I guess it depends on what pickups you have. If Sam's is set up that way, and he hasn't run into issues with this, maybe see what they did to Y or T these in (maybe a backflow or vacuum check of some sort/). I've had issues in the past doing it this way, but it could have been set up better maybe?

My current boat 1800 Tyee has 2 pickups from factory. Was already set up for trolling motor from factory.

I agree, EZM. The best way would be to tie directly into the tank. If you can’t do that, then a T with a check valve would be the second best option.

[Habfan]

I know it’s not what you asked but I have an idea for you. With a 16’ boat a 4 hp 4 stroke Yamaha is $1300, you tighten the steering and with the $ you save, buy a electric trolling motor and use it to steer your boat. The 4hp comes with a built in tank as well. If you get a bad batch of gas the kicker will always get you home. It works great for me. If you already have an electric you will save $2500.