Low voltage

Tigger72 · #1 06-05-2017, 01:54 PM

Boat set up??
Problem....
Running my Humminbird Helix9 off the starting battery as most had suggested when I asked what battery I should run it off of vs my 24v set up.
I keep my batteries on a MinnKota PC345 on board charger and I bought all new batteries this spring.
So I'll start my motor and get a low voltage alarm on my finder and yesterday it didn't go away. Its a BassPro battery and I called and am able to return it ... (its a 630 with 550 CCA) Do I pick up a different one or am I doing something wrong or a new battery won't fix this issue ( its not like anything isn't working its just annoying ) Should my motor not be charging the battery when running???? I thought they did???

Any advice would be appreciated!!

dodgeboy1979 · #2 06-05-2017, 02:27 PM

I usually run a dual purpose battery ie deep cycle and starting. I get a low voltage when i first start my motor on my hummingbird but it goes away. What type of motor do you have on your boat?

Tigger72 · #3 06-05-2017, 02:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dodgeboy1979

I usually run a dual purpose battery ie deep cycle and starting. I get a low voltage when i first start my motor on my hummingbird but it goes away. What type of motor do you have on your boat?

'99 Mercury optimax 135hp 2 stroke

deschambault · #4 06-05-2017, 06:35 PM

I have a Mercury Optimax 150 which requires starting battery amps. I also run my Onix 10 with I-pilot link as well as my VHS radio and other radio and bottom bounce quite a bit. I had a Canadian tire starting battery but it wouldn't start the Optimax one day after a few hour of bottom bouncing. Luckily it did start my kicker and I was able to start the big motor after a bit of charging from the kicker. I bought the Cabellas pure lead AGM battery after that and haven't had the same problem but you do have to take into account a fairly large current draw from big screen electronics etc. I am sure the new Solix 15 will be worse. The initial low battery alarm is no problem but a constant one certainly is.

fish99 · #5 06-05-2017, 08:43 PM

you can set your alarm voltage for when it comes on, and your screen should show you battery voltage. do not let it go below 11.5 volts , when getting low voltage start main engine idle it up to about 1500 rpm until voltage reads over 12.5 volts. then shut it off .

sundancedan · #6 06-05-2017, 08:55 PM

You should talk to the parts dept there, I think they sell the Interstate 24XHD, that's the battery I'd go with. They are a pretty decent battery!

-JR- · #7 06-05-2017, 09:21 PM

Should be able to set your low voltage alarm just like a shallow alarm.
Might be set at a default setting .

Tigger72 · #8 06-05-2017, 09:53 PM

So my next question is if I were to take a volt meter and check my battery voltage while my big motor is running what should I see for an amount while charging ( giver or take as I'll check before starting my motor) just off my charger it sits at 12.63-12.75 V when I get my low voltage alarm it's below...11?? ( just guessing on that)

-JR- · #9 06-05-2017, 10:18 PM

no less than 13.5 when engine is running

Walleye101 · #10 06-05-2017, 10:57 PM

Put in a bigger fuse.

deschambault · #11 06-06-2017, 08:16 AM

When my battery is fully charged and I'm running fairly fast with the main motor, the smartcraft gauge shows output of about 14.2 volts while the Onix shows a system voltage of about 13.5. It can drop to about 11 or so when you are starting an Optimax because it runs the compressor for your oil tank and starts the engine. That's why Mercury requires a large starting battery for Optimax engines.

Tigger72 · #12 06-06-2017, 09:15 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Walleye101

Put in a bigger fuse.

I assume you mean in the fuse panel....???

.. ( please excuse my lack of electrical knowledge.....I'm a great nurse ....terrible electrician!!) Im currently running a 3 amp fuse... what do you suggest?? And will this harm my finder??

Tigger72 · #13 06-06-2017, 09:19 AM

Knowing what battery I have on it now....should I have gotten a larger one to start with.... ( once burned twice shy..... but now twice burned by bass pro.... if this is the case..... as the guy had said that was all I needed )...

deschambault · #14 06-06-2017, 09:35 AM

I suspect the battery you have meets the stated requirements but large screen electronics have a current draw and if you spend a lot of time with them on and the motor off (jigging, bottom bouncing etc.) you might be better off with a larger capacity battery - I certainly am.

Tigger72 · #15 06-06-2017, 12:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by deschambault

I suspect the battery you have meets the stated requirements but large screen electronics have a current draw and if you spend a lot of time with them on and the motor off (jigging, bottom bouncing etc.) you might be better off with a larger capacity battery - I certainly am.

:

lol.... thanks!! I think I will do that....

EZM · #16 06-06-2017, 12:55 PM

WHOA .......... boys ........

Tigger - before you do ANYTHING - check your low voltage alarm setting in your fish finder. It may be set too high. Maybe it's set at 15v ?

You said you are getting an alarm but there seem to be no other issues right?

Most batteries will run up and over 14v when the main is running.

Turn the setting down to 11.8 and be done with it.

If you are not having any real issues besides the alarm on the finder - your alarm just needs to be turned down.

deschambault · #17 06-06-2017, 04:52 PM

When the battery draws down to the point where it won't start the main motor - you can set the low voltage alarm wherever you want.

Walleye101 · #18 06-06-2017, 05:00 PM

I just had the exact same problem with my Helix 10. My original Humminbird 788 only required a 1 amp fuse but the new unit required a bigger one. 6 amp fuse did the trick. Mine is a inline fuse behind the main fuse panel.

huntsfurfish · #19 06-06-2017, 05:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tigger72

I assume you mean in the fuse panel....???

.. ( please excuse my lack of electrical knowledge.....I'm a great nurse ....terrible electrician!!) Im currently running a 3 amp fuse... what do you suggest?? And will this harm my finder??

Quote:

Originally Posted by EZM

WHOA .......... boys ........

Tigger - before you do ANYTHING - check your low voltage alarm setting in your fish finder. It may be set too high. Maybe it's set at 15v ?

You said you are getting an alarm but there seem to be no other issues right?

Most batteries will run up and over 14v when the main is running.

Turn the setting down to 11.8 and be done with it.

If you are not having any real issues besides the alarm on the finder - your alarm just needs to be turned down.

This^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

And as to the fuse:
Do not exceed the recommended fuse size! I believe the recommended size for the Helix 9 is 3 Amp for Gen1 and 4 Amp for Gen2 units. If you were blowing 3 amp which it sounds like you are not dont go higher, that would be a sign that there is a problem some where.

huntsfurfish · #20 06-06-2017, 05:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Walleye101

I just had the exact same problem with my Helix 10. My original Humminbird 788 only required a 1 amp fuse but the new unit required a bigger one. 6 amp fuse did the trick. Mine is a inline fuse behind the main fuse panel.

The Helix 10 gen1 is 3 amp(which I have) and Helix 10 gen2 is 4 amp fuses. Not a good idea to exceed the recommended/required amperage.

The helix 12 is 4 and 5 amp for gen 1 and gen2.

Walleye101 · #21 06-06-2017, 05:56 PM

Hmmm. I'll have to check into this. That's what the technician recommended. Thanks.

huntsfurfish · #22 06-06-2017, 06:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Walleye101

Hmmm. I'll have to check into this. That's what the technician recommended. Thanks.

If you go to humminbird site:

https://www.humminbird.com/freshwater/home/

then support,
then product manuals,
then Installation guides,
then Unit mounting guides,
then Helix 9,10,12 Install guide. its a pdf.

Has fuses for Helix 9,10 and 12.

Tigger72 · #23 06-07-2017, 07:30 AM

Ahhh.... so its actually really nice to that this issue isn't all that uncommon!! I will play with it a little bit to see if I can resolve this.... stay tuned!!! Thanks for all the input .... this is why I love this site!!!!

lds · #24 06-07-2017, 04:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Walleye101

Put in a bigger fuse.

Fuse won't change your voltage so leave it how it is

shell_guy · #25 06-07-2017, 04:43 PM

I run my electronics and motor off a Northstar dual purpose group 27 AGM, the battery was bloody expensive but worth every penny. It's 180rc and still have over 1000 cca for starting. The best reason for AGM in this application is that even a battery that is low will still output full cranking amps unlike a traditional flooded acid.

cube · #26 06-07-2017, 07:58 PM

First thing is to make sure that the connection at the battery is still good. Make sure things are clean and tight. Boats have a way of having things come loose in those pounding waves.

You will always have voltage drop on long runs of power cords on fish finders. The wires here are so thin in those cords. Eg On my Lowrance I can set up the screen to permanently readout the voltage. Previously when I had fully charged the batteries and them settle down for a while I took my readings. On the Lowrance 12.3 volts while the meter at the battery was 12.67 volts. You of course could change this by running higher capacity wires close to your finder then hooking into those with a shorter power cord for your finder. I have put in a marine breaker switch panel toward the front of my boat now to deal with this kind of issue.

When the warning did not go away did you shut down and restart your finder? Computer are computers and some times things "stick" for no reason and a reboot helps.

In my case I also installed a 2nd battery at the back because while technically possible tapping into the 24 volt electric motor power supply is rife with problems. I have mine set up that both the main and kicker will charge both batteries but the toys (all 3 fish finders, downriggers, etc etc.) only draw from the kicker starting battery as I can always pull start the kicker if I have to. That leaves the main motors battery for the main motor.

Good luck

petecatch · #27 06-07-2017, 08:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by shell_guy

The best reason for AGM in this application is that even a battery that is low will still output full cranking amps unlike a traditional flooded acid.

V=IR. R is constant. If V is decreasing, then so is I (your cranking).

For the OP, it's normal to get a lower voltage on your head when cranked. Wiring from starter to batt has lower resistance and will drop the voltage during crank. Plus, voltage monitors in the heads are inaccurate. Don't sweat it, it's voltage after you've cranked that counts. Same reason your headlights dim when starting a car.