Galled Lug - Repairs

[LJalberta]

I noticed at the range today that the bolt on my Tikka T3X was getting difficult and rough on some of the throws. I checked at home, and sure enough, there is some early galling that can be felt dry firing. I threw my .308 bolt in and it runs as smooth as butter.

I always oil my lugs, but it seems like I obviously am not doing it enough (lesson learned).

Anyone have any recommendations for fixing it at home, or who you would recommend I take the rifle too (preference around Edmonton).

I'm hoping it's early enough that major damage isn't done inside the chamber.

Thanks All,

[schreyer]

I had this happen to one of my christensen arms rifles years ago. There was galling on the lugs. Extremely tough to lift up the bolt handle on fired rounds.

Turns out it was too stiff of a spring that was put in from factory. I think it was around a 32 pound if I'm not mistaken.

Rod hendrickson put in a 12 pound spring and not only did it fix the galling issue it made cycling the bolt so much easier.

Hope this helps.

[pikergolf]

Lugs should always be lightly greased.

[elkhunter11]

Depending on how bad the damage is, you might consider having the bolt lapped to smooth things out, and then have the headspace checked.

[Pathfinder76]

Originally Posted by pikergolf

Lugs should always be lightly greased.

With white lithium grease.

[pikergolf]

Originally Posted by Pathfinder76

With white lithium grease.

[brewster29]

You might also want to inspect the lug abutment area inside the action for roughness as well, perhaps both working surfaces are galled somewhat. Stainless steel is definitely more prone to galling than carbon. Easier said than done unless you remove the barrel…or have a good borescope.

In any case it’s not a hard job for any competent gunsmith to lap or machine resurface the action and lugs and check/correct headspace.

[Dean2]

If the bolt lugs are lightly galled this can be caused by lack of lube, but also dirt, or too heavy a firing pin spring. Use a hard black Arkansas stone and smooth them out. These stones are so smooth they will not remove enough metal to affect things like head space or safety of the fit, they just polish. I have run go and no go gauges after doing this and never had one change. Use a proper lug cleaning rig, Dewey makes a good one, and make sure the lugs in the action are clean, before running the bolt again.

[6.5 shooter]

Originally Posted by pikergolf

[LJalberta]

Thanks for all the information gentlemen. I ended up taking a magnifying glass to the bolt, and the lugs themselves didn’t look too bad. It was actually the cocking ramp that had the worst. Thought I would give it a shot at home and see what I could do.

A little 600 grit followed by some 1000 grit paper to take the worst off, and it’s feeling about 80% perfect once greased up. I’ll keep the lugs and ramps greased and monitor to see if it stays were it’s at. If it looks like it’ll be an continuing issue, I’ll give Rod a call.

I had some synthetic grease on hand, ordered form TW25b, but might check the garage if white lithium grease is the ticket.

I’ll also pickup one of those Dewey kits. Thanks again all,