The great thing with the manuals is they are bullet specific. Sure most 120 grain .284 bullets can start at x number of grains of a certain powder. The bullet makers can then tailor their data specifically for the bullet type you are using. For example the TSX bullet has grooves cut into the shank. This reduces friction in the barrel as it has less surface actually contacting the barrel as it moves thru. With less friction comes less pressure. Less pressure means that the generic load that was cross referenced may not be getting all the potential form that cartridge. One of the greatest things about reloading is that we can wring everything we can out of a cartridge and make it as efficient as possible.
If you look at the grand scheme of things it isn't alot more money to invest in the proper manuals. Cross checking is great but if you are shooting alot of Nosler bullets them just buy the manual. There is no guessing involved then. If 2 years later you decide to try Barnes bullets then buy their manual. Nobody says you have to buy every manual today, but the more info you have at your disposal the quicker you learn.
Also worth mentioning is that besides load data, each manual has different information in it about the actual reloading process. They are all just a little different so it's nice to have a few perspectives on how to do things other ways. Maybe one way would be easier for you than another. If you are taught a few different ways then you can make up your own mind and pick what works best for you.
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I like hard copy.
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